Screw that "gimme an easy install attitude!" LOL. Man, you you're gonna do a Weber conversion, save a couple hundred extra bucks (okay, probably 2 times more than you were counting on :D ) and get DCOEs. You won't be sorry. Rather than feeling like you have a carb conversion, it feels like you've dropped a performance engine in your 3G. Yeah, it takes custom work and mad time, but it is worth it.
Hear me now and listen to me later - it IS worth it.
WERD
its not that i dont want to do any work...if thats what your thinking. I love working on my car...but money is a very big issue with me...i dont have the money to go constructing custom parts for a carb that i just spent alot of money on. so...the dcoe's?? which one's, a link to the site would be awesome if anyone has one.
thanx
I grabbed mine off of Ebay for $212. I'll admit - I did get a great deal. You can usually get DCOE 40s off of Ebay for around $200, but I got a lot more with mine. They guy that I won them from also included a manifold (which I had chopped and joined to my stock manifold by a machine shop), airhorns, softmounts, linkage kit, and a bag full of stuff he didn't know what to do with. I used a lot of it. My conversion cost a total of just under $600. When PhydeauX did his, I believe it cost him a bit over $700. That's probably a more realistic price.
Sorry man, wasn't trying to make it sound like you were afraid of work. I know a lot of people on the board spend a lot of time working on the 3G and really enjoy it. I was pumped up when I wrote the post because I just got in from driving my car after having made some adjustments. The DCOEs are very satisfying.
If you really wanna look into puttin sidedraft carbs in your car, read through the DCOE posts by PhydeauX and me. That will help you get started.
I know that Mike (A20A1) was talking about the webers long time ago and he said that 32/36 weber is good, But he wished he had 38. it has better sesponse to full throttle.
I have been keeping up with all this DCOE talk on the board, but not doing my own research because I was planning on going the route of EFI conversion, B20A swap, and eventually a turbo. So I don't know very much about carb performance, but what is the DCOE 45? I assume this means 45mm jets? How big of a performance gain is that over the twin 40's?
toastghost wrote: "what is the DCOE 45"
-It's the same style carb as the DCOE 40 - it has a 45mm throttle plates instead of 40mm.
"I assume this means 45mm jets?"
-Nah, you pick the main jet sizes, along the size of pretty much every other component to the carb. These things are amazingly tunable. You can pretty much customize the setup to suit whatever you have.
"How big of a performance gain is that over the twin 40's?"
-Well, possibly none. With a 2 liter SOHC engine DCOE 45s would probably be too much. I think you may even lose power by having carbs too big for the job. On the other hand, if you have a DOHC engine (B series), 45s may be the way to go. Basically, you choose 40s or 45s according to the size of main venturi you want to use. Choose main venturi (or choke) size first, that will determine what size DCOE you need. DCOE 40s will take up to 36mm main venturis (although I've read they don't work properly with anything over 34mm). DCOE 45s will take larger main venturis, not sure on the specs. Look up the article "Selection and tuning of Weber DCOE carburetors" on Google. That will give you a good start.
my question is will th dcoe's pass emissions i found a guy who tunes hot rods and funny cars to do the weber but if can do the dcoe's for like 700 ill do that. so site? somebody help me out. [email protected]
tightwhitelx, I honestly don't know if they'll pass emissions. A20A1 recommended to "lean" the fuel mixture and let the car warm up really good, then take it to get it tested. I'm gonna get an exhaust analyzer and work with it until I get it right. I'm sure there's a way to make it pass. I've also heard that if you take your exhaust manifold off, clean it out really good, blow some compressed air through your exhaust piping and get some new spark plugs that your chances of passing with a heavily modded car go way up.
Mine WILL pass. All we get in Cincy is a tailpipe sniff test. I can beat that.
If he'll do the WHOLE job for $700 (including the custom manifold), then by all means go for it. That's what you would pay to do it yourself. Don't be surprised if his estimate goes up as he does the job, though. Get it in real good writing.
I know that the DCOEs give better performance than the Weber 32/36 or the 38/38, but I say if for the sake of time and convenience you should go for either the 32/36 or the 38/38. Unless of course you have time and money to install DCOES in your Accord.
I can't speak for others, but I have been very satisfied with my Weber conversion. Again, this is just my opinion.
i'll probly end up tring to get the dcoe's off ebay.....there seems to be some good deals on them. I was wondering though...is there anything else i should be looking for along with the dcoe's?
i meen, im sure theres more than just the carbs i need...like any miscellaneous stuff??{if i was to buy them straight of an official site, not ebay, what would it come with that it wouldnt on ebay?}
"im sure theres more than just the carbs i need...like any miscellaneous stuff?"
Dude, I lucked way out when I won my carbs off of Ebay. With mine I also got
-airhorns
-throttle linkages
-2 throttle cables (lol)
-intake manifold (for Mazda, but I used part of it)
-bag of extra stuff - some if it was useful
This guy wasn't a car parts Ebay seller. He had bought these off a guy that raced his Mazda. He planned on puttin' them on his porsche, but never got around to it. He sent me everything he had. He's even emailed me since then to see if they worked out for me - nice guy.
When you buy them, try to get as much extra stuff as possible. Look for auctions that include the manifold. It'll save you money.
Choosing between carbs:
How can you compare which carb will give simmilar performance?
To get a rought idea add the sum of the venturi sizes.
a 40 DCOE may have two 30mm venturi's which gives it a total of 60mm
a 32/36 DGV is 68mm
When starting it's good to choose a venturi size 75% of the size of the throttle plate/bore.
40 throttle = 30 venturi.
45 throttle = 33.75 venturi. (not that it comes in that size)
simmilar values will net simmilar results in performance. to keep flow rates high go with the smaller venturi's
1.6L HONDA CIVIC - Single 40 DCOE / 30mm Venturi / 4.5mm Aux. Venturi (Boost Venturi)
DGV has 32-36mm Venturi / 3.5mm Aux. Venturi
What are the HP gains from a single DCOE?
Come on.. Don't leave me hanging guys... site? a20? POSCarb?:help:
Does anyone know how well the weber 32/36 does in a Minnesota winter? (it's fricken cold) I'm not sure if I can have that open filter that it comes with. This guy at this shop said that that it might be bad to get it if I can't put the stock air box on. He said I will need that temp sensor and door. Well I kinda removed those already, but I would go get a new air box from the junk yard if I need to. Does anyone know how it performs in the cold? It gets like 50 below zero here. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks a lot guys.
3rd gen fanatic, I don't think you'd gain power from putting in 1 DCOE, it might now flow enough, I dunno what the rates are.
Mike... carb's don't like cold weather, if you could get an air cleaner from a BMW 2002 maybe you can rig something because your carb can freeze up in the winter.
is there a something we can wrap the carburator to keep it from freezing or getting hot?
there is got to be somekind wrap.
I am thinking of installing DCOEs and I have a few questions. What size main venturis (chokes) would be needed? what size jets? What is done with the PCV system? what kind of throttle linkage is needed? (anyone have any pics of the linkage?) thanks! :)
what are DCOE's?
Well Its all going to depend on where you want to have the motor make power. The bigger the choke the higher up the rpm range the power is going to happen. I run 32mm chokes in mine, they give good drivability with my cam, though they are a bit small to take full advantage of it. With a stock cam 32s are going to be about as big as you want to go (32mm on a 2L makes power around 5000rpm or so, you want the power closer to your torque peak for better streetability). You choose your main jets based on the choke size. choke size * 4 gets you close. The air corrector is about 50 larger then the main jet. Idealy you want F2 tubes, though F16s work fine. Its not worth buying F2s if you have F16s. 50/F9 idle jets are a good starting point, but the idle can be quite tricky to get right. Remember that the idle jets control the transition mixture, not the idle mixture in a weber carb.
I left the pcv system out on mine. I believe its better for the rings or something to have it on, but I didn't bother. If you want it you need to tie it in to all the runners.
I am quite fond of the weber PM3714 top mount linkage. Its about 1/3 the way down this page http://www.piercemanifolds.com/linkage.htm. Not the cheapest but its a nice package and works quite well.
andy
How would I keep the PCV system then?
I would run:
32mm chokes
135 main jet
**dunno about the emulsions**
190 air correctors
35 pump jets
45/F9 idle jets
4.5 aux vents
hey thats great! thanks for the info!
Ok, I think I'll go with this:
30mm choke
120 main jets
F9 emulsions
170 air correctors
50f9 idle jets
40 pump jets
4.5 aux vents
To keep the pcv you need to tap a line into each runner, then join all those lines together and attach them to the pcv valve.
andy
