What Bolt Ons to Beat This Car + Motor ?

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Originally Posted by MessyHonda

dude our engines are A20s.....im sure our engines could take a 25 or a 35 shot every once in a while.

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Too bad a 35 shot won't be nearly enough to beat that thing.

For the amount you'd have to spend, you may as well get a new car.

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Originally Posted by speedpenguin

Too bad a 35 shot won't be nearly enough to beat that thing.

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^^^

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Originally Posted by speedpenguin

Too bad a 35 shot won't be nearly enough to beat that thing.
For the amount you'd have to spend, you may as well get a new car.

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he would not be driving a 3 gee if he had money. lol some times i even laugh at my self...trying to make a late 80s honda accord "fast" but hey at least i do it in style.

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Originally Posted by MessyHonda

he would not be driving a 3 gee if he had money. lol some times i even laugh at my self...trying to make a late 80s honda accord "fast" but hey at least i do it in style.

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hey, it won't be blisteringly quick, but they can have a little get-up-and-go. but like you said, you did it yourself. so it may not be able to run sub-8 second quarters, but you built it, not bought it.

In all honesty if your serious about beating him you probably can or come damn close to doing so and then you can be proud that your car with no aftermarket support could keep up or even beat a car with millions of available parts. To do so you will need to do some serious mods, which will consist of a turbo build and to make the car as light as possible and remove the A/C, C/C maybe P/S, remove the trunk liner, get a C/F hood, maybe take out the back seat the day of the race. Weight reduction for the most part is free, minus the C/F hood. A rebuild and turbo setup will cost around 3K, so to be able to beat that car you need to put about 5K into yours. Remember since we have no support for parts it will cost you more money to make your car fast then it cost him, but you will have something more unique. Then again you could always do free weight reduction, basic bolt-ons and a bad ass nitrious setup if you dont care about blowing your motor and just want to win. You can get a nice kit off of ebay for a few hundred and you will spend like $400-$600 on a I/H/E/ camgear. All i can say is that if your serious about it then start reading up on the forced induction section and go get a motor and start building.

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Originally Posted by snoopyloopy

hey, it won't be blisteringly quick, but they can have a little get-up-and-go. but like you said, you did it yourself. so it may not be able to run sub-8 second quarters, but you built it, not bought it.

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I like to throw down the "not worth it" line because if you're modding a 3Gee, you're doing it for fun (and pride) and not because it's easy. Even the poor ones could easily trade their 3Gee for something with more power but a lower resale value.

Sounds dumb after I switched to the Civic camp, but what can I say, I like the small cars and even a 3Gee is too big for me now. I'm in the same boat as you guys, it's all about what you like, not what makes the best performance choice.

yeah idk someone one here maybe got mad and stomped it when i was comming out of toco bell lol but yeah it looked stock besides what looked to be a m1 muffler well he stomped it and i pulled up beside him but yeah so i backed off cuz i was allmost on empty, 30lbs make the gas gauge go in the negitives, and it was ALSO right beside the sheriffs department so i wasent about to risk it being they just bought a POS! dodge charger with a push bar on the front which NC law phrobits them from using it so its funny its like having turbo in ur trunk and it not even hooked up POINTLESS! but yeah ill prob. go tell him to hold it for an extra 250 but yeah thanks
-mike


and yeah if i had major money no offense but i dont think i would drive my 3gee besides work but thats beside the point i love her lol

if thats a low mod LS/Vtec in a Teg, its probably a mid-low 14 sec car. On an otherwise stock but healthy A20 you should be able to beat him with about 10-11psi boost on a good setup with maybe some drag radials. My friend with his 96 civic sedan (LS/Vtec, weight reduction, header, cams, CTR pistons 12.6:1 CR, CAI, custom tune etc) was still chasing my tailights even with much better 60ft times than me, i kept blowing him away at an average of 3/4 sec per pass in the 1/4 and usually at least 5 mph. HE finally put that motor in a CRX and borrowed my drag slicks, and he cant touch my trap speeds even though hes pulling 12.8s in it, but i never got to run the accord on the drag slicks, just street tires... So my accord was worth a very conservative 12.5 at 110-112 mph on the stock engine but we never got to run it on the slicks after blowing a turbo and then later on having oil pressure /bottom end bearing problems... so the best we have on tape is 13.7 @105mph on STREET TIRES (195/60/14 all seasons yo) with serious traction issues (tirespin to about 65mph-70mph) 2.4-2.6 60fts. If i could have pulled a 1.8 60ft on the drag slicks it would have gone easy 12.5s

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Originally Posted by mike10562004

and yeah if i had major money no offense but i dont think i would drive my 3gee besides work but thats beside the point i love her lol

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grand idea. make the 3g your daily driver and buy something else if you really want to be quick. a dsm is a nice money pit for that purpose.

gah i bought an CAI filter no pipe gah it worked WONDERS i would have paid 400.00 for it if it costed that much but it only costed 35.00 so its prob the best upgrade i have ever done!!! i was very suspisious of the cai theory thinking it was like some side effect of rice posioning but damn it works GREAT


you oughta saw the shiz that came out of the old filter and the damn intake manifold was clogged with oil so i used some carb cleaner
if YOU DONT HAVE A CAI I WOULD ADVISE YOU TO GET ONE!

You can mod the throttle body, knife edge the inside of the TB opening, smooth it all out inside and polish, then remove the butterfly screws and grind out the screw hoels a little on the spindle and replace with countersunk ones and grind the screw ends flush underneath the spindle. May not seem alot but it helps a little, adding the exhaust manifold and 2.25" main pipe to the manifold and then 2.25" system all the way back will help too, mild camshaft, 4th Gen 2.2l map sensor, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, nology spark plugs, some good leads, new uprated coil, new rotor and cap, maybe some new Accell injectors that are matched, remove the head, shave some of the surface have new performance valve seats cut, modify the exhaust ports to flow better maybe big valve conversion if you have a few extra dollars to throw at it, have the inside of the inlet manifold sand blasted and cleaned up, and thats about it really for reasonably easy mods and that should get you around 150-170bhp depending on what you do to the head and how well it's done!! Then maybe think about transmission mods, highly recommend you go with clutchnet flywheel and clutch kit and then maybe think about 1st Gen Teggy hybrid gearbox to getting faster excelleration, short shift kit maybe, some really good tyres wide too 205 with some really nice light rims 15" with some light weight wheel nuts would do with say 205/50/15 with some semi slicks like Toyo R888 or yoko equivalent. And having the suspension sorted out so you don't loose grip on the fronts higher at the back and stiffer springs all round preferably more at the back than normal will help. All of this will get you a bit closer to beating the Teg but you'd have to put the car on extreme diet still as well so no 15" subs in boot or any speakers nothing just one light weight racing seat for you! Carbon fibre bonnet will help, maye even think about junking the windows and reaplcing all with fixed lexan and gutting all the metal and electrics in the doors. You'll be suprised howmuch weight you can save and the difference it makes, another good one is bin all the mirrors inside and out and replace with light weight racing ones thats a good few kilos straight away!! remove the rear hatch gas shocks, the rear sway bar not needed in straight line drag racing just added weight, rear wiper mechanism, take out one of the front ones maybe do single wiper conversion, remove spare wheel and tool kit and run that ultraseal tyre sealant or carry couple of cans of tyre puncture repair sealant, removing A/C system, P/S system and convert to manual, any odd bolts and brackets that aren't essential remove, everythign and anything you can get out. Put it all in a big box then weigh it you'll be gobsmacked!! You can allways put it back in afterwards!! You'll stop quicker, corner better, and accellerate faster top speed won't be much better but thats not your goal.

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Originally Posted by rjudgey

You can mod the throttle body, knife edge the inside of the TB opening, smooth it all out inside and polish, then remove the butterfly screws and grind out the screw hoels a little on the spindle and replace with countersunk ones and grind the screw ends flush underneath the spindle. May not seem alot but it helps a little, adding the exhaust manifold and 2.25" main pipe to the manifold and then 2.25" system all the way back will help too, mild camshaft, 4th Gen 2.2l map sensor, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, nology spark plugs, some good leads, new uprated coil, new rotor and cap, maybe some new Accell injectors that are matched, remove the head, shave some of the surface have new performance valve seats cut, modify the exhaust ports to flow better maybe big valve conversion if you have a few extra dollars to throw at it, have the inside of the inlet manifold sand blasted and cleaned up, and thats about it really for reasonably easy mods and that should get you around 150-170bhp depending on what you do to the head and how well it's done!! Then maybe think about transmission mods, highly recommend you go with clutchnet flywheel and clutch kit and then maybe think about 1st Gen Teggy hybrid gearbox to getting faster excelleration, short shift kit maybe, some really good tyres wide too 205 with some really nice light rims 15" with some light weight wheel nuts would do with say 205/50/15 with some semi slicks like Toyo R888 or yoko equivalent. And having the suspension sorted out so you don't loose grip on the fronts higher at the back and stiffer springs all round preferably more at the back than normal will help. All of this will get you a bit closer to beating the Teg but you'd have to put the car on extreme diet still as well so no 15" subs in boot or any speakers nothing just one light weight racing seat for you! Carbon fibre bonnet will help, maye even think about junking the windows and reaplcing all with fixed lexan and gutting all the metal and electrics in the doors. You'll be suprised howmuch weight you can save and the difference it makes, another good one is bin all the mirrors inside and out and replace with light weight racing ones thats a good few kilos straight away!! remove the rear hatch gas shocks, the rear sway bar not needed in straight line drag racing just added weight, rear wiper mechanism, take out one of the front ones maybe do single wiper conversion, remove spare wheel and tool kit and run that ultraseal tyre sealant or carry couple of cans of tyre puncture repair sealant, removing A/C system, P/S system and convert to manual, any odd bolts and brackets that aren't essential remove, everythign and anything you can get out. Put it all in a big box then weigh it you'll be gobsmacked!! You can allways put it back in afterwards!! You'll stop quicker, corner better, and accellerate faster top speed won't be much better but thats not your goal.

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You, sir, are hardcore.

only way i like it :)

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Originally Posted by speedpenguin

You, sir, are hardcore.

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thats why hes the lord of NA accords lol

You should make a guide on that t-body mod you mention.

Holy.....

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Originally Posted by rjudgey

You can mod the throttle body, knife edge the inside of the TB opening, smooth it all out inside and polish, then remove the butterfly screws and grind out the screw hoels a little on the spindle and replace with countersunk ones and grind the screw ends flush underneath the spindle. May not seem alot but it helps a little, adding the exhaust manifold and 2.25" main pipe to the manifold and then 2.25" system all the way back will help too, mild camshaft, 4th Gen 2.2l map sensor, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, nology spark plugs, some good leads, new uprated coil, new rotor and cap, maybe some new Accell injectors that are matched, remove the head, shave some of the surface have new performance valve seats cut, modify the exhaust ports to flow better maybe big valve conversion if you have a few extra dollars to throw at it, have the inside of the inlet manifold sand blasted and cleaned up, and thats about it really for reasonably easy mods and that should get you around 150-170bhp depending on what you do to the head and how well it's done!! Then maybe think about transmission mods, highly recommend you go with clutchnet flywheel and clutch kit and then maybe think about 1st Gen Teggy hybrid gearbox to getting faster excelleration, short shift kit maybe, some really good tyres wide too 205 with some really nice light rims 15" with some light weight wheel nuts would do with say 205/50/15 with some semi slicks like Toyo R888 or yoko equivalent. And having the suspension sorted out so you don't loose grip on the fronts higher at the back and stiffer springs all round preferably more at the back than normal will help. All of this will get you a bit closer to beating the Teg but you'd have to put the car on extreme diet still as well so no 15" subs in boot or any speakers nothing just one light weight racing seat for you! Carbon fibre bonnet will help, maye even think about junking the windows and reaplcing all with fixed lexan and gutting all the metal and electrics in the doors. You'll be suprised howmuch weight you can save and the difference it makes, another good one is bin all the mirrors inside and out and replace with light weight racing ones thats a good few kilos straight away!! remove the rear hatch gas shocks, the rear sway bar not needed in straight line drag racing just added weight, rear wiper mechanism, take out one of the front ones maybe do single wiper conversion, remove spare wheel and tool kit and run that ultraseal tyre sealant or carry couple of cans of tyre puncture repair sealant, removing A/C system, P/S system and convert to manual, any odd bolts and brackets that aren't essential remove, everythign and anything you can get out. Put it all in a big box then weigh it you'll be gobsmacked!! You can allways put it back in afterwards!! You'll stop quicker, corner better, and accellerate faster top speed won't be much better but thats not your goal.

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:jaw::eek5::omg::rockon::bow: HOT

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Originally Posted by AccordEpicenter

thats why hes the lord of NA accords lol

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I know, right? I'm going to apply a lot of that advice and apply it to my Civic, because I want it to be faster but I am flat broke right now. Plus I don't want to sacrifice my lovely 41 MPG

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Originally Posted by rjudgey

You can mod the throttle body, knife edge the inside of the TB opening, smooth it all out inside and polish, then remove the butterfly screws and grind out the screw hoels a little on the spindle and replace with countersunk ones and grind the screw ends flush underneath the spindle. May not seem alot but it helps a little, adding the exhaust manifold and 2.25" main pipe to the manifold and then 2.25" system all the way back will help too, mild camshaft, 4th Gen 2.2l map sensor, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, nology spark plugs, some good leads, new uprated coil, new rotor and cap, maybe some new Accell injectors that are matched, remove the head, shave some of the surface have new performance valve seats cut, modify the exhaust ports to flow better maybe big valve conversion if you have a few extra dollars to throw at it, have the inside of the inlet manifold sand blasted and cleaned up, and thats about it really for reasonably easy mods and that should get you around 150-170bhp depending on what you do to the head and how well it's done!! Then maybe think about transmission mods, highly recommend you go with clutchnet flywheel and clutch kit and then maybe think about 1st Gen Teggy hybrid gearbox to getting faster excelleration, short shift kit maybe, some really good tyres wide too 205 with some really nice light rims 15" with some light weight wheel nuts would do with say 205/50/15 with some semi slicks like Toyo R888 or yoko equivalent. And having the suspension sorted out so you don't loose grip on the fronts higher at the back and stiffer springs all round preferably more at the back than normal will help. All of this will get you a bit closer to beating the Teg but you'd have to put the car on extreme diet still as well so no 15" subs in boot or any speakers nothing just one light weight racing seat for you! Carbon fibre bonnet will help, maye even think about junking the windows and reaplcing all with fixed lexan and gutting all the metal and electrics in the doors. You'll be suprised howmuch weight you can save and the difference it makes, another good one is bin all the mirrors inside and out and replace with light weight racing ones thats a good few kilos straight away!! remove the rear hatch gas shocks, the rear sway bar not needed in straight line drag racing just added weight, rear wiper mechanism, take out one of the front ones maybe do single wiper conversion, remove spare wheel and tool kit and run that ultraseal tyre sealant or carry couple of cans of tyre puncture repair sealant, removing A/C system, P/S system and convert to manual, any odd bolts and brackets that aren't essential remove, everythign and anything you can get out. Put it all in a big box then weigh it you'll be gobsmacked!! You can allways put it back in afterwards!! You'll stop quicker, corner better, and accellerate faster top speed won't be much better but thats not your goal.

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so basically, what he just said is no bolt ons for you if you plan to come close to that teg.

wood be a great idea to spend some money not on bolt ons but turbo the thing properly... aparently they go fast turboed for some particular reason....

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Originally Posted by rjudgey

You can mod the throttle body, knife edge the inside of the TB opening, smooth it all out inside and polish, then remove the butterfly screws and grind out the screw hoels a little on the spindle and replace with countersunk ones and grind the screw ends flush underneath the spindle. May not seem alot but it helps a little, adding the exhaust manifold and 2.25" main pipe to the manifold and then 2.25" system all the way back will help too, mild camshaft, 4th Gen 2.2l map sensor, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, nology spark plugs, some good leads, new uprated coil, new rotor and cap, maybe some new Accell injectors that are matched, remove the head, shave some of the surface have new performance valve seats cut, modify the exhaust ports to flow better maybe big valve conversion if you have a few extra dollars to throw at it, have the inside of the inlet manifold sand blasted and cleaned up, and thats about it really for reasonably easy mods and that should get you around 150-170bhp depending on what you do to the head and how well it's done!! Then maybe think about transmission mods, highly recommend you go with clutchnet flywheel and clutch kit and then maybe think about 1st Gen Teggy hybrid gearbox to getting faster excelleration, short shift kit maybe, some really good tyres wide too 205 with some really nice light rims 15" with some light weight wheel nuts would do with say 205/50/15 with some semi slicks like Toyo R888 or yoko equivalent. And having the suspension sorted out so you don't loose grip on the fronts higher at the back and stiffer springs all round preferably more at the back than normal will help. All of this will get you a bit closer to beating the Teg but you'd have to put the car on extreme diet still as well so no 15" subs in boot or any speakers nothing just one light weight racing seat for you! Carbon fibre bonnet will help, maye even think about junking the windows and reaplcing all with fixed lexan and gutting all the metal and electrics in the doors. You'll be suprised howmuch weight you can save and the difference it makes, another good one is bin all the mirrors inside and out and replace with light weight racing ones thats a good few kilos straight away!! remove the rear hatch gas shocks, the rear sway bar not needed in straight line drag racing just added weight, rear wiper mechanism, take out one of the front ones maybe do single wiper conversion, remove spare wheel and tool kit and run that ultraseal tyre sealant or carry couple of cans of tyre puncture repair sealant, removing A/C system, P/S system and convert to manual, any odd bolts and brackets that aren't essential remove, everythign and anything you can get out. Put it all in a big box then weigh it you'll be gobsmacked!! You can allways put it back in afterwards!! You'll stop quicker, corner better, and accellerate faster top speed won't be much better but thats not your goal.

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Copy and paste to save for later when I print it out to keep it in a high security vault where nothing, but me can get to it!! Godly advice...

If you had a healthy engine a turbo would be a good option, probably around $6-800 for a manifold to be made, $4-500 for a re-built turbo, $4-500 for the piping, intercooler, wastegate etc. i'd highly recommend an oil cooler kit for engine as the oil temps will get a lot higher than norm, $1500-2000 for a good aftermarket ECU and ignition system so that the whole thing doesn't blow up in your face, bigger injectors, fuel pump, fuel regulator $500 or so. So $4-5000 in parts alone depending on quality and howmuch secondhand stuff you can get cheap!! Oh not to mention you'll be needing $5-600 for a clutchnet flywheel and clutch kit. Oh you'd probably have to hire a rolling road for a day to tune properly so add $4-500 for that.

i think you could put together a setup that would smoke that b series for under 1750 but youd have to find deals and/or be able to weld your own parts, like the manifold and charge piping etc. Used but good t3 turbos can be had for well under 200 without the need to rebuild, plus an intercooler and piping can be had for well under 200 if you fab the pipes yourself. Managemant and fuel system upgrades i would think are at least gonna cost 450+ and thats just for an safc/btm setup that i wouldnt run over 11-12psi boost with it, it just gets too sketchy.

You'd still need to spend $5-600 on beefing up the clutch and flywheel though, otherwise you'll just burn the clutch out as soon as you pull away for the first time!! If you can get a load of ghetto finds yes you could do it for half the cost but would it last most likely not, would it be as reliable most likely not, can this guy do any of the work for any of this stuff most lkely not as he wouldn't be asking what he needs to beat the Teg in the first place! apparantly someone on preludpower has ghetto rigged a turbo setup onto a 2nd gen lude and run 13.376 1/4 mile time? then the engine blew all it's coolant out. So doing cheap isn't allways best espcially when you don't know what your doing off. It's okay to qoute these cheap prices but to be honest most people wouldn't know what parts to get or where to get them cheap from your knowledge is far greater than most on turbo charging an a20 but you've got that much more knowledge that it seems a lot easier for you to do if you had to do another one.

to be honest just stick whatever bolt ons you can get and add some nos upgrade the flywheel and clutch and then be prepared to stick a new engine in quick after it all blows up!! Which ever option the guy takes it's going to need a fair amount of investment and it's going to end up blowing up the engine whether NOS, Turbo or highly tuned N/A.

I think ultimately he has to decide is this really worth wrecking his car over, personally just eat humble pie for a bit maybe wind him up a little, then start working out what he wants to do with his car but what ever it is it should start with a fully re-built race prepped blue printed engine then he won't have to worry about it going pop when he puts his foot down. At the end of the day he has a nice little classic honda hatch and is there really any point it getting all macho about who's cars faster than who's i like tegs and quite frankly with all the trouble with rust i'm having i'm considering dumping the old hondas and going with something more interesting like a kit car type with a honda engine inside it instead maybe an ariel atom or something similar!! That way even a ferrari wouldn't beat me ;0)

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Originally Posted by rjudgey

At the end of the day he has a nice little classic honda hatch and is there really any point it getting all macho about who's cars faster than who's i like tegs and quite frankly with all the trouble with rust i'm having i'm considering dumping the old hondas and going with something more interesting like a kit car type with a honda engine inside it instead maybe an ariel atom or something similar!! That way even a ferrari wouldn't beat me ;0)

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Very true. These cars are getting kind of old to be using as drag sleds, aren't they? I've found over and over again that I ended up being a lot happier just enjoying my various Hondas for what they were instead of getting worked up trying to figure out how to make them beat other cars.

I'm still rather surprised to see someone on this site say that though.