uhhhh I think I'm going to have to be ok with it being N/A sounds like to much work and money for me right now. I spent a pretty penny and hundreds of hours getting my Subaru on the road so... I guess this car project is going to have to wait....
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uhhhh I think I'm going to have to be ok with it being N/A sounds like to much work and money for me right now. I spent a pretty penny and hundreds of hours getting my Subaru on the road so... I guess this car project is going to have to wait....
if your going N/A read the performance thread. TONS of good info in in there.
I did the swap and used a brand new flywheel, clutch, cable and it cost $500 for everything, and it only takes a day if you know what your doing. And i hate to tell you but even if you go N/A if you plan on doing anything more then a I/H/E then you will probably need a tranny swap anyway.
it cost me under 400 to swap to 5 speed and never regretted it. I smoked the auto on the stock engine so i wouldnt think it would hold up that well to boost. To make a turbo install worth it you need to boost at least 8-9psi boost, there is a big jump in power for some reason from 5psi to 9psi, the difference is like night and day. And with a conservative tune the engine should be fine either way. For a budget yet not halfass system on a stock engined car i would say a BTM and safc will work satisfactorily but you need the 450cc injectors. On top of that, a good front mount intercooler, 2.5" charge piping, couplers, turbo manifold (even if its a log manifold) and id reccomend at least a 2.5" exhaust, anything less and youll choke the engine a lil, an ebay blow off valve, and T3 60/63 turbo will give you a good top end without being really laggy. Plus they are relatively cheap and easy to get. You need to change to colder spark plugs also, I used NGK BPR7ES and they worked god. And yes, the stainless braided oil lines are a good investment too. Also, i would tune this with a wideband o2 sensor or borrow one. I ran with no 02 sensors on the stock ecu with the msd box and a safc and rarely got a check engine light. Also, i would leave the egr valve but plug it off. oh yeah, the ecus from 5 speed accords are the same as auto accords, dont worry about changing it
The ECUs are slightly different. The auto controls an extra air bleed solenoid and has an input from the shift selector switch.
yea but for what we are doing it will make no difference whatsoever. At least imo
^^^^agreed^^^^
although i used a t3 from a thunderbird and stock injector's and still ran a 14.2 at altitude.
when you tune with a wideband you want to stay at 12.5:1.
i would like to add normally an auto ecu runs the fuel table alittle more agressive than the manual.