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I can design you a box that will absolutly SLAM in that thing with 2 10's...
With avaliable space taken into consideration, I would ONLY suggest 2 10's, 2 small 12's, or 1 15"...
What kinda of subs are you getting?? Sounds like either Atomic X's, RE audio, or those new Cervin Vega Max-X's...
A while ago, I was talking to a customer about making his system a "Quick release" type setup (we don't have any audio theft around here. Too small of a town) in his 89 CRX... Those CRX's get LOUD really easy, so I put a 12" Alpine Type R (1222D) and a Hifonics BX605...Quote:
Originally Posted by 88ctlxi
I built the box to support the amp being mounted on the baffle, and one day I thought, welding leads are quick release and 0/1AWG, so why not have the ground and power wire with those welding leads, so all you have to do is disconnect the RCA's, remote wire, and pop those Leads off and there goes the box, ready to hit the drag strip!
what do think about the older bazookas? i gutted the amp out of a powered one,reinforced it to take out any rattles, i am runnig the signal through a pyramid active crossover network and using that to tune the tube properly then powering it with an EXM 510 the good sony,before they went to garbage. the original tube amp was a joke, and it was set up with the wrong crossover frequency. it actually was playing midbase out the tube when it was stock lol.
heres what the amp looks like, these are getting hard to find,they are a very clean sounding amp, why sony abandoned that design i don't know. i guess selling massive amounts of cheap amps to young ricers was more important then selling quality ones. the all mighty dollar,.http://audio.carsbg.net/images/SONY-EXM502-.jpg
Quicker nickle...
Mobil ES is the only thing anyone should look at in a Sony... Xplod is total crap.
i still really need to get 2 amps and a sub or 2
i want to keep useing the stock prelude cd deck just want to run speakers thu a amp and another amp for a sub (Would also need new speakers) lol
and i put a new battery in the accord and no more dash lights dimming (Y)
the lcd on the radio still does a lilttle but thats probley just from the speakers taking the power away or something idk lol
well the exm series are pre explode. if you can find one in good shape grab it. they were some of the best amps sony ever made. just getting rare. paid 30 dollars used for this one, looks brand new,have been running it six years with no problem. it's 180 watts rms and can be bridged and is true stable into two ohms bridged. dam fine amps. then they started selling the chinese made bullshit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bass Man
Holy crap! 2 ohms bridged stable on an A/B class amp?? That's something to be proud of.
I got a Profile amp sitting in my room, I just don't find the need to amplify my Mids/High's just yet!
yea they were great amps,can somone explain why sony started selling garbage when they used to make good stuff?:thumbdn:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bass Man
Domestic>Import.
i have a set of orion hcca comps the first versions there freakin insane the magnent is the same size as the cone i love them just have to find the right god damn amp to push them cuz they are 600watts rms per voice coil and yes they are dvc wish i had a camera to post some pics of them but i dont :violin: hahahaha but the box would have to be 1.5 cuft per chamber ported and it has to be made of at least 3/4 mdf lemme know what you would do it forQuote:
Originally Posted by Bass Man
thats a really good idea now that i found what i think i am going to run for an amp and thats the older hcca comp 2400 class d mono and that amp you have to run 1/0awg wire for popwer and ground and have to run 16awg for remote turn on its pretty beastly if i do say so myself but thats a good idea to have a totally removable setup just have to find a way to make it theft proof thats all............we need a trunk monkey!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Bass Man
Bump...
In the sub enclosure section, there is a hotlink "best" which goes to Pete's blog page, not his designing page. He truly is a wiz with the wood...
call me old school or whatever, but why do you steer people away from multiple battery's?
The reason I ask is I have had in the past multiple systems ranging from 2500-4000 watts RMS with 1 to 4 extra battery's and never encountered dimming lights.. I never babied them either. I will admit I went through 1 alt a year, but i only had to buy the first one the rest were free.
Ya, I was installing way back when the caps first hit the market and i felt and always will feel that they are a waste of money.
I know alot has changed in the years i have been away from car audio, so would you mind enlightening me.
Well, a long time ago (Probably when I was on CS.com 6 years ago) we were discussing the second battery and a member, who everyone respected as one of the best there, said if you're having a problem keeping one battery up, your gonna have a bigger problem trying to keep another one up.
hmm, I never had any problems keeping them up.
i can agree with that if your alt cant keep one up it wont keep a 2nd lol
i have some pretty severe dimming lights in my car, ive tried everything apart from replacing my battery to fix the problem so a battery must be what i need. mine must be fucked. even tho it starts the car mintly and is a big 550cca
You upgraded all your grounds and the ground on the amp is bigger than the power wire, right???
yeah ive upgraded all the wires pretty much. 1awg cables to the amp.
this is what i would recommend. If you have done all the necessary wire upgrades ect,ect...... remember all amp grounds should be shorter than 12".
First I'd get a minimum of 850CCA batt as it should be upgraded anyway. That alone should help tremendously. If that does not fully solve the problem which it probably wont add that 550cca batt with a battery isolator and a circuit breaker. keep the ground as short as possible..
You just nearly doubled the storage capacity.
You will also notice the system will sound cleaner....
Also with a second battery near the amplifiers you have effectively shortened the power wire by 10+ feet.
the down fall as i stated above in my personal experience. I am guessing you may know what i am talking about.
The alternator is taking a huge hit every time the bass hits. the more likely reason you're light's dim is because you are pulling more current than the alternator can readily deliver with a low amount of storage. Once the storage is diminished the electrical system souley relies on the alternator to keep up with its current needs.
In you're current situation i would guess you go through alternators frequently, you can do what i did and just replace it once a year or get a custom wound alternator that can handle 125-150+amps.
But hey what do i know, when i started all the made were class a and class a/b amplifiers.
Some may not agree, and i am fine with that. I'd like to hear their solution aswell.;)
accordb20a, have you repaired the issue?
The three of us probably wont come to a compramise, so I hate to leave you dead in the water. I gave you a soulution and i got no rebuttle on it. Wheather or not i am right or wrong. So it will be up to you to decide on the plan of action.
What i posted is from personal experiance, and not from what someone told me.
keep us posted!
Yep, a second battery should only be a last resort. If you got all your t's crossed with the grounds, then you could look into secondary power supplies. XS Power batteries are what most the competition sound guy's use.
im guessing it HAS to be the battery or the ground wire from the amp to the chassis, ive been hard at work lately so ive had no time
when i replaced my alternator the other day cause it blew up when the car wasnt even runing the alt i replaced it with seems to have made the light dimming problem get smaller, i can now have my music louder before they will start to dim, so theres half the problem that alternator was/has been on its way out.
I should really upgrade to a legend alternator, what do they put out like 100 or so amps???
