It's about damn time son!
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It's about damn time son!
Ok another quick update but oics to follow tomorrow when i pull the car back out of the garage. I spent the better part of my weekend rebiulding all the stock calipers and painting them with black caliper paint. Im very unimpressed with this stuff. My calipers were spotless and scrubbed and looked great only they were not black. I used the spray and this may be my undoing but in transport after over 48 hours dry time ever place the new paint touched another piece of metal the paint on both pieces broke off and started flaking. They didnt clang or anything as they were wrapped up seperatly but I have to pull them back off and repaint them again. Maybe this time Ill use the brush on stuff or have them powdercoated.
The pedal feel is great and the old brake fluid was definatly stock and original fluid. Oh it was dirty. I went through a full quart flushing and another pint bleeding. Its pretty and pedal feel is amazing.
The engine is 93% ready to fire. I tried to check for error code off the obd1 swap but I must be doing something wrong. i idnt get any and I have the O2 sensor unplugged so this should throw error code 1 for the sensor and 41 for the heater. The small drivers side fan kicks on as well all the time unless the key is on but it may be due to the ack of heater cluster installed at the moment.
Ill be going tomorrow and getting the exhaust welded and itll be time to turn the key to see what happens in the old girl.
sounds good bro...pumped to see your whip
The fan coming on like that seems strange to me. I'll look into it.
well I dont know what causes it but after I drive my hatch and its warm the fan will turn on after the key is removed for a fewminutes. Im guessing this may be what it is but I havent left it on long enough to actually check to see if it turns off. The radiator fan sensor is new, the TW sensor is new, the coolant temp sensor at the Tstat housing is new. Im not sure if that circiut is timed or actually driven off a sensor until radiator temps drop below a certain piont.
Mike my brothers LX-i does the same thing
yes zack but is the engine warm or cold when it does this. id think it would do it with the engine warm not just to do it because its cycling.
I stopped bt the local hardware store today to find a plug for the egr tube in my stock b20a header. Turns out its a M24x1.5 threadpitch bolt. That part was great, finding it on the other hand has proved very difficult. For the time being I broke the tube and crimped it shut. Ill fold it over once or twice as per 2ndgenguy idea. I do believe he got his idea from carotman if anyone is keeping track. Its a ghetto fix but it will have to work for the time being. i may have the stud welded shut when i see the the welder tomorrow. it depends on how much we can get done and how fast mostly.
the startup blues are never any good. I went out 2 days ago and installed new lugs and wires and as i did I made sure to spray an ample amount of PB blaster down each plug hole to try and lubricate or help unsieze the piston rings as this engine has sat dormant at my house 5 plus years without oil. I went out again today retoqueing and as I tried to turn the crank it was near impossible. My next adventure will be to remove the plugs and see if the starter motor will turn it over. Hopefully so.
As I was already getting everything ready for start I decided I spin the tires a bit since they are off the ground, see if i can get some of the new MTF moved around and coated on the freshly rebiult transmission. Out of gear as you would expect, pretty easy to spin with some hiccups sloshing the tires forwards to backwards. In 5th gear they still turn pretty easy but you can at least feel the gear engagement and all slop was removed. However, i should not be able to turn the tires by hand in gear as the engine should also be turning without the clutch pushed in. I tried 1st gear and its alot harder to spin the tires but as stated before the engine should be turning as well or I should not be able to spin the tires by hand.
I released the clutch cable completely, no difference. This is with new pressure plate, clutch disc, one resuface on a stock b20a flywheel. New integra throw out bearing 90-93 non vtec. I guess Ill have to pull the transmission and see if the throwout bearing is messed up or I may have over toqued the pressure plate bolts causing fin worpage? Only other thing i could think of is a bad differential but thats a new quaife unit? Any thought from the experts?
oh and I dont think its the differential becuase the throw out bearing lever has a long pull to set and its hard as a rock afterwards. i didnt think much of it as I have a super stiff sping installed. Now I know better. Lets hear the ideas
I would expect that you could turn the wheels by hand as long as the other was turing the opposite direction, even with the lsd... However if both were turning the same way without turning the engine I would suspect a clutch issue.
well in ger the engine should turn with the transmission as I spun the tires and the process of whats happening is the transmission as it should but theres no engagement between the engine and the transmission
Is the other wheel spinning the opposite way? That's just how the differential works. Now if it was spinning freely, in gear, with one wheel on the ground I'd be worried.
:Ok :beer:I would love to do that sometime! I would not challenge that history though. lolQuote:
Originally Posted by mykwikcoupe
I wouldnt use PB in the cyl necessarily, but would take the plugs out and use marvel mystery oil or some 5w30w and turn the motor over quite a bit to get her good and lubed. Keep in mind you will be smoking up some once it does start, from trying to burn all that stuff out. It is much easier to turn over without compression, so taking the plugs out enables that.
The opposite wheel is spinning in the different direction but what Im saying is with the clutch engaged in gear the engine should be in direct drive with the transmission. As such if i spin the transmission the engine would have to spon as well likeif I was to compression start the engine. My problem is that the transmission never engages with the engiune in any gear.Quote:
Originally Posted by LX-incredible
I can feel the difference in drag through the transmission so im sure the fundementals inside are correct. The other wheel is spinning in the opposite direction so the differential would also be checking out. The issue is nothing spins the eninge so it has to be a clutch/flywheel issue. Thats the conclusion Im drawing anyways.
Unless you restrain that wheel or spin it in the same direction you will not turn the engine.
ok you got me. that im not sure of. ill go out and drop one side down on the ground and see what happens. Thanks for the tips and it makes sence thats the power would be dispearced through the easiest opposing force a free spinning tire.
so did you try starting it yet?
yes i did. it cranked over a few times last night and kicked off but I dont have an exhaust on it yet its just the header and downpipe. It was super late and the kids were sleeping so i cut it off real quick. i tried al day today and coulnt get it to start again I drained the old gas put rew stuff in, checked the timing, fuel pressure firing order I guess all I can check is sark but I need someone to crank while i look for the jump. Hopefully its othing ard just need to get it dialed in still What would you call the turbo you biult for me?
the sel on the ecu is flashing #2. on some cel guides it says nothing for this code, other say its the secondary O2 sensor. The b20a book says its a faulty ecu? which should I believe? the car was rewired to be obd1 and the wiring is perfect. Im wondering, of the black/yellow and blue coil wires, how would i check for power. im using the internal coil on my b18a dizzy so Ive got a jumper harness that goes from the stock black/yellow and blue to the dizzy. Im wondering if the internal ignigter may be bad or maybe the injectors arent firing.
When I pull the plugs after trying to start it smells like old gas only Ive flushed it all out by pulling the rail banjo and cycling a gallon through of new gas. It should smell of fresh gas id think so Im wondering if the injecotrs arent firing. The fuel pump kicks on. Ive got lots of fuel pressure. How do i check these? Thanks guys 6 days and counting till it needs to be prefect.
what software is on the ECU?
the ECU software is looking for a 2nd O2 sensor and that feature needs to be turned off
using crome i think. speedfactory in tacoma did it for me. it wont keep anything from working will it. Id like to check spark and go through the fundementals
double checked the plug gap and regapped to the lower end of the scale rather than the larger gap. Checked firing order and found the problem. With the tioming light hooked up I get no fire to any plugs. I guess the killer deal on the dizzy with the internal ignighter was because the ignigter was bad. Ive got power on the black/yellow to the dizzy. Nothing on the blue (ill look into what it does) and Ive got no spark to any plugs. Any tips for a cheap replacement part?
nah it will just throw that code
crome has an option to turn that 2nd o2 off
Blue is the tach signal. If you have full battery voltage to the black/yellow (black on the adapter I built for you) and a good ground at the distributor housing, you should be good to go. Also check that the extension connector on the ecu jumper is fully seated. These distributors need to send/receive a signal to/from the ecu to fire the ignitor.Quote:
Originally Posted by mykwikcoupe
What's the full code on the P06 ECU?
full code? I double checked all the wiring and it looked great or at least to me anyways. i went down and grabbed the b18c dizzy tonight so ill pull the igniter out of that to put into the b18a dizzy i have. the part numbers are the same and this way i dont have to modify another dizzy bracket as well. lets hope this igniter still works
