Thanks, I think my addiction is coming back now that i don't have a daily driver. I have a lot of things that i have been working on so hopefully it all comes together soon. The rebuild should be underway very soon.
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Thanks, I think my addiction is coming back now that i don't have a daily driver. I have a lot of things that i have been working on so hopefully it all comes together soon. The rebuild should be underway very soon.
Just a thought, how about a solid front mount but a rubber isolator where the front crossmember bolts to the frame? You could do the same for the rear mount as well i suppose. Im not sure if anyone has came up with a modified rear thats better then just window welding it. I got Johnny O front crossmember today and it has a large crack in i that will need to be welded or patched again. Im thinking ill take it to my fabricator and have them biuld me a new one based on this design. maybe compare this one with pics of yours and see what I get. If you had to change anything on your curret one what would it be?
Overall seems like a solid design the only thing that could be modified is something along the lines of a front mount. This would make it appeal to more buyers on our forum for sure. But then again i am not sure many would buy this other than a handful of us that are in this for the long haul. This kit is marketed for many chassis lineups so i am confident that it will suit its purpose.
In a ideal situation i would run two side mounts and a nice rear mount and keep the front open as many newer honda's are. I had issues selecting a turbo manifold design because my wastegate would either hit the front mount or the radiator. I did order innovative mounts with the intention to use the passenger side mount and adapt it to a weld on mount to my bell housing. But i have considered using the rear and trying to make a modified 90-93 Integra rear bracket to fit the new innovative mount. But one step at a time i need to do the tranny mount to use this cross member.
Ill be ordering one for sure when my hatch project starts and the coupe is back on the road. I thiniko that would provide the best clearances for the b series swap and they dont use the front mount anyways. I stopped by the fabricators and the cost to replicate the one I bought from steve is more then this cost. Id rather have these anyways since the radius rods are totally tits
Mike they are located in Washington not sure if its in your area or not....
Not so much my area more Juhn turks area. Its about a 2 hour drive but still well worth a shot to stop by. Thanks for the heads up. Even more reason to buy.
yeah get me one that clear the b20.....all of us b20 guys need one.Quote:
Originally Posted by mykwikcoupe
Well John@Explicit shipped out the new radius rods today so the kit is pretty much complete as far as they are concerned. Once i get a new chassis i will install the kit and work on a transmission mount (B20A) and see what comes up. I will see how the kit seems w/o a transmission mount but i don't think it will be enough. I would expect forward/rearward movement but i have always had the intention of doing a transmission mount.
You do realize that Rob's car does have a B20 right?Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
With a solid front mount, window welded rear mount and no dogbone is how Im planning on running. Ill try to modify the dogbone a bit possibly. Take some good videos so we can see how it leans and when. Id think just sitting on the ground, ebrake on and putting the engine under load stress should work
Your new traction bar will definitely help out since it has that solid front mount. The bushings in my dogbone mount were replaced but they do little to nothing for that particular mount. I will see how it all comes together when i get to that point. I just powdercoated the traction bar/hardware today so thats all set now.
Where is the center beam? The one that ties the front and rear crossmembers together into one solid structure? Without it, all of the braking and acceleration forces are transferred to the chassis through the front crossmember, not evenly through multiple points like Honda intended. It shouldn't be hard to add a perch to the center of the part to facilitate bolting on the center beam and a front motor mount. Should it?
The kit does not incorporate that and i know a few of the guys are running other custom traction bars that work without one as well. And yes it would be fairly easy to incorporate one as well but i plan to run without it.
My kit is now complete but i was not going to install it until i pick up another chassis but things seem to be slowing down a bit which oddly spring typically picks up for trades.
I've read a similar question in ESP's house forums. Basically, the response was that the flimsy sheetmetal center beam wasn't necessary, as the new MUCH stronger front crossmember/traction bar more than compensated for it. I'll look around for itQuote:
Originally Posted by Ichiban
I understand that the front crossmember is much stronger, however the mounting points on the chassis remain the same. And yes, there's not much to the center beam, but if you look at the design, it seems extremely strong in compression and tension, exactly where it needs to be to distribute forces across the two transverse beams.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2drSE-i
I also see that the rubber bushings have been completely eliminated. I realize that's great for handling, but isn't it also going to further increase stress on the chassis mounts? There's certain parts of my car that I don't want fatiguing and breaking, and that whole system is definitely one of them.
Anyways, I'm not bashing the project at all, actually I'm trying to be constructive. I need to build a similar bar for my 2g, so the B20A exhaust will clear the friggin thing. I modified a stock crossmember from a 2.5g, but I really don't trust the extra stress that's going to be on it now that I've changed it's shape. I figure that fabbing a bar like the one you guys have here will be easiest and safest, but I only have one mount per side, unlike your two.....even further reason for me to want to keep the center beam.
The one on the center beam seems to be useless on my car as it does not seem the do its job. I understand all the concerns with this design but this is the same design that they use on their other honda chassis lines. And perhaps with all modifications you are altering the pre-engineered state as it was intended so you always run a risk of extra stress.
I have not had a chance to run the product but i will post up my findings when i get it installed. But i expect it to be a few months as i am looking for a new chassis.
send it to me Ill let you know in a few days. I was thinking of getting this for my b18c swap and using the front torque rod mount as the front to rear cross member attaching point. Id weld up a bracket that bolts to the rear locastion and use a billet radious rod as the member with heims joints. It appears that front mount is close enough to the center of the bay that it wouldnt be hard to fab the rear section at all. This is what I was thinking since the newer b series engines dont have a front mount near the radiator.
For your application Ichiban, I would try to re-use the OEM bushings on the chassis mount points.
i have a trans mount on the b20 that tommy sold me...il see if i can find some pics...
nvm...he deleted them from his photobucket
When i say transmission mount i mean side not the rear one. In my opinion two side mounts and a rear or front would be ideal. I don't get why some had the tranny side mount and we got the rear but no side. I think i have a decent fix for it if i ever get the innovative mount kit. It will be more work than the average member would want to do but it is needed for my project.Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
i have a front mount...its connected by 2 of the trans bolts...i wish i could get pics but my motor is 80 miles from meQuote:
Originally Posted by RobT5580
Just in case anyone else is interested, the company rob bought the torque rod kit from are also willing to sell seperate pieces as well. Im ordering the radious rod kit complete with heims, double knuckle pin and whatever length of 1 1/4 bar I need. They said rob swapped from the 17in prelude bar to the 16in bar for his accord but since mine is more custom Ill probably end up with something different. Thanks for the link rob.
Yeah i swapped the 17" bars because they left no slack to adjust them at all. This way there will be some adjustment in case someone's car is slightly off from mine then they can adjust the helms joint.
Good luck with yours mike and John was extremely helpful and willing to work with me.
id be all over one of these if we didnt have to certify any modifications over here!!
hmmm i want a kit.. i can weld shit up for free at school...
