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I couldn't see myself paying that kind of money & rebuilt one off ebay for little around a bill. It takes a little time & tweeking... Here is some pics of my process.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...rebuilding.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...errebuild1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...rebuildkit.jpg
installed with no return spring
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...erbreather.jpg
I think I'll order this one.
I've looked arround but couldn't find a "how to do" that shows wich vacoom lines can be removed.
Will this really make my fuel aconomy better?
Is this a really "bolt on" item , or should I preper some other stuff?
I took my old carb out (what a monster :deadhorse:) but could't take out the gasket that remained stuck to the inlet manifold .. is there a way of doing it without taking the manifold out?
Did someone took some pics of this swap?
thanks,
Adrian. https://www.3geez.com/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38161
That thread has pretty much all you need to know on how to swap the carb & links to where you need to buy adapter plates. I got all my stuff - adapter plate, rebuild kit & gaskets from JAM engineering for a little over $100 after shipping. IF you get the one off ebay, it willl have the intake from the looks of it...I think that is a generic pic & doesn't come with an intake.
you are talking about the intake manifold? yes I suppose it won't be included.
thanks
do I need a fuel pressure regulator after installing the Webber carb?
thanks
i think webs are happy at 3-4 psiQuote:
Originally Posted by ADRIANFARINA
and how much does the 3gee puts out? 3?
yeah i think 2-3 if its a new fuel pump
Got my new Weber carb+convertion kit today .
Here is something they list in the papers I got :
Vehicles with AC and or Cruise may required additional modifications or parts that are not available in this kit.
Fabrication or reuse of original parts may be required.
Automatic transmission vehicles may require modifications to allow the use of the kick down cable.
What do I do with this information?
Mine is automatic with AC.
thanks.
You will need to readjust the transmission TV cable once you have the carb like you like it. There will be lots of small tweeking and fine tuning with the cable once you start driving it so you get the shift points to suit how you drive.
AC, well when it kicks on it will drag the motor down some at idle. Again you will need to have a slightly higher idle speed for times when you use the AC... maybe. It differs from car to car. These compressors do not drag idle power down as much as other makes and vehicles though so you may not even have an issue.
how do I take the gasket between the manifold an carb off?
it's real stuck.
is their a solvant I can pour on it to loosen it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
lol
Scrape the manifold clean with a wide chisel, just be careful so you don't dig into the soft metal.
As for the transmission TV cable, I was adjusting mine by hand (used the trunk release cable) after a number of linkages for the thing broke, but I also hooked it directly to the accelerator pedal for a time since manually controlling the linkage can get in the way.
Best bet is to hook it to the accelerator pedal to have even motion between the TV and Accelerator cable. Some of our cars already came with this style of cable, so you might want to look for one.
or
If your auto but have a spare manual pedal assembly, hook it to the clutch pedal and use your other foot to manually adjust the TV to set the shift points where you want no matter what your accelerator pedal is doing.
Get all fancy now ^^^^you are so innovative A20A1 !
next thing I guess you will suggest using a lawnmower brake to make a paddle shifter up by the steering wheel :flash:
I'll let lostforawhile do that one. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
It's America. I'm a native American, an old guy, owned my own company for nearly 35 years and retired @52. Things were not like this in the 50's and 60's and even the 70's. But it slowly creeped into our lives as American Corporations got greedier and greedier. Used to be able to raise a family of 4 to 6 on one income and send all the kids to college. Try that today. There is no reason why the Weber 3235 with the adapter and electric choke should cost the consumer any more than $150 plus shipping and tax.Quote:
Originally Posted by ADRIANFARINA
Weber pops out a lot under a license in Italy and other countries. Total cost $22 material $38 in labor. I got contacts but they can't get me one!
Go figure why it costs so much?!
Really sad.
I'm looking for a carb right now for my rock crawler, an old 1987 Dodge Raider, 2.6L mitsubishi 4 cylinder, 159 cuin. A simple 1 barrel would run my 4 cylinder, a simple one barrel! can't even find this here in America for much under $200.
What a sht hole Corporate America has put us in.
Doc
you must not know much about these carbs, the electronic Keihin is one of the worst carbs Honda ever put on a car, parts to repair it aren't available, you need a lot more then the little cheap "rebuild" kit, there are a lot of diaphragms etc that don't come in that kit, plus everything else around the carb that runs it, and is failing after more then a quarter century, and none of those parts are still made, you can't even buy a throttle cable, not even aftermarket, let alone something like the special diaphragm in the box that controls, say the EGR, The only way to keep these cars on the road other then going FI, is a different carb,where you can get parts to repair itQuote:
Originally Posted by jlebr549
thats a good price, have you checked with Pierce manifolds? you can get the same kit, but you also get free technical support, and I think the price is about the sameQuote:
Originally Posted by ADRIANFARINA
