That G37 is pretty tight.
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That G37 is pretty tight.
Yes, yes it is. Has alot of bodywork do e to it. Idk ifnu can tell it has custom fender flares on it. Evo is getting a widebody kit on it as u can see with the unpainted kit.
Yeah, the flares integrate very well. It looks like it has some ground effects too. It's all very tastefully done. Hat's off to him.
The Evo body kit is a little loud for my taste, but to each his own. I don't really know a whole lot about body kits, but will it improve his aerodynamics any? If you can improve your Cd (and consequently, your gas mileage) by 10-20%, then it's a good investment. If it's just for appearance, then meh.
Oh the kit is gonna be sexy. Its missing a few rhings but ull see once its done. But he does plan on tracking the car so no worries. Its all gonna be put to use.
oh dang, i havent posted in a min. Well the accord has been down for about a month now. IDk exactly what the problem is still. Quick overview of the problem:
I drove to work, ran low on gas and had to coast into a gas station. put 20 in and the car started up, hesitated a lil bit but ran fine. About 10 min down the road it decided to stop idling so i had to keep reving it at stop lights to keep it from dying. then comes the road construction.went from 2 lanes to 1, and a cluster fuck ensued(because shitty drivers) well during this stand still i had to keep reving the car and restarting it to move the few feet the cars moved. This was about the last time i was able to move the car under its own power. a no start situation started as soon as i was the car in the single lane. i was able to push the car off to the side, a few of the construction guys offered to pull my car into a gas station(put that tow strap to use haha). and from there it got towed home.
cut to a few weeks from now, i have replaced the fuel filter, fuel sock, added a fuel relay, put on a oem fpr, double checked my ecu connections, my tune and other things on the ecu settings itself. Now the car will start up completely fine and idle smoothly 99% of the time. Every 20th or so start it will do a small searching idle but it hits fuel cut during this. Im not sure if thats normal but it will do it for a few seconds and then warm up and stop.
But as soon as i go to rev the engine it leans out and dies. this is anytime. Only way i have been able to get the engine to rev just fine is to squeeze the fuel return line of the fpr, and bump the fuel pressure up to 90psi+. Im sure thats not healthy for anything but its the only thing that made it not lean out when i reved the motor.
Now on to the latest possible problem, i think it could be the map sensor. I started to change the map to some of the pre-loaded 4bar sensors and it idled a bit rougher but i was able to rev it and not have it lean all the way out. So that is my next part to replace. I want to get a 3bar map tho and money is tight so imma hold off until i can afford it. Im super glad i bought a backup car now. Its been treating me pretty good.
Running out of gas anywhere near ATL interstates is friggen russian roulette !.., anyhow that event puts focus on fuel delivery. That could have been a coincedence, I see youre moving away from fuel delivery but ya may want to inspect the injector screens if you think it sucked up tank muck...
^^^ x2
What tuning program are you running?
If you can watch the sensor readings as the car is running and as you rev it. It will let you know if the sensor is functioning correctly as long as you know what your looking for.
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im running neptune rtp, the reason im on the map is the last time i was running the car before the heater hose developed a pinhole/jetspray leak, it was reading -8.9psi at idle, and up to 4k when i babied it. It only ever changed from -8.8 to -8.9 and back. so im gonna pick up and oem map, see if it works.
and I dont think its the injectors because it starts and idles fine. Id think it would have jumped timing at this point before i say the fuel system is bad.
It sounds like your heading in the right direction with the map sensor. It should change more that if you are doing anything more than just lightly touching the pedal.
check fuel pressure.... watch as you rev it up. map will throw it into limp mode. it will run shitty but it will run.
its not going into limp mode. fuel pressure is correct. between the 2 fpr i have it works fine. I got a oem map finally, gonna put it on here in a bit to see if it fixes it.
pm me your email.
take a data log, so you can send it to me.
oh sorry, i forgot to update this out of pure excitement yesterday. a used 25dollar map fixed the car. It runs and drives atm. Im mad it took this long but glad its figured out. now I should be able to start prepping the car for boost because im motivated to work on it again. well.. as soon as I move.
i have been slacking on the updating on anything but i did somemore powercoating the other day.
First i took these cool little flushmount valve stems:
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...729_172546.jpg
then made them look like this:
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...729_193721.jpg
im kinda mad tho. this is 2 sets of valve stems that i coudnt use on my wheels... so ive kinda given up on these wheels. ill just keep them for another wheel i guess.
But the main project of the day was this. I didnt take a before pic cuz i was too excited lol. so it goes to the backing pics first
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...729_205230.jpg
had to do a silver base to get a nice finish
then did this
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...729_215155.jpg
^^^fresh powder turns into this vvv
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...729_222901.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...730_001717.jpg
it came out pretty freaking good imo. I need a bigger oven. to do cooler parts now. and more colors
its fixed lol.
Epic turbo!!!
Fixed but no tiny Tim turbo... Lol
That turbo dude is freaken ugh no words lol you came a good way with this build and inspired to finish my swap to the accord and boost it quick question that powder coat would up to the temp? Never actually understood powder coating.
Oh how cute. I got nicknames now! Lol
The powder is actually really fine plastic that you melt into a coating. It bakes/cures at 400-450 depending on a few things. But its supposed to be good on most things that dont deal with exhaust temps directly. Idk the exact temperatures tho. Ill find out.
Well that's awesome I can't wait to see it installed gonna look real sharp that's for sure
Prismatic Powders: How well can the Prismatic line handle heat situations?
their site says 400 degrees is what it can sustain.
Looking good sir.
Tim have you ran a car fax on your old accord? Never know it might show up.