They might mine, *no keys*Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
which is easier, new locks or just get new keys made?
*and cheaper*
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They might mine, *no keys*Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
which is easier, new locks or just get new keys made?
*and cheaper*
didnt even think about the car being stolen. im just saying it wouldn't hurt to be a bit cautious even if you say "who would steal this car". it can happen to anyone at anytime, just a heads up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
ok this is a stupid question:
How do i remove he Auto Transmission?
i know you remove all the bolts and mount but i see the CV axle if im correct where the trans and engine meet. will i require a special tool to do this task?
and how much does the trans weigh?
ive got a Q, as soon as I get 5 posts haha
Charlie why even do the sedan rear handle mod if it isnt for security purposes?
It weighs A LOT!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6
You're going to want to bring it down with a jack. And please mark dont do this mod until you've got yourself a nice pair of jack stands.
You need to remove all bolts on the bell housing, rear T bracket, and trans mount. Axles, trans cooler lines, and starter needs to be removed also.
Look up the 5 speed swap in the how to's its pretty straight forward bro.
How do 16 inch rims effect a 3gee? tires are P195/50R15
thanks
To get rid of the key holes...?Quote:
Originally Posted by dacantu
better lock it, people are hauling off,or stealing older cars and chopping them up just for the scrap metal, scrap is high right now, the police really won't care about a 25 year old Honda, that seems to be their general attitude, if a tweaker sees an easy mark like an unlocked old car, they aren't going to care about getting caught, just getting that couple of hundred bucks to get highQuote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
yeah i have done this mod for security reasons
I don't understand, haha. Anyway, are the sedan handles plug-and-play, so to speak? I was thinking about getting/installing just the right side for now since I never unlock it from the outside and waiting until I get power locks to get/install the driver's side.
Yes plug and play. I can upload a picture if you'd like I tried mine on to see how they looked but since they're not paint matched I removed em.
Lemme see a picture. :)
Oh, oh; other question: was there ever a Monterey Green hatch?
what weber carbs can we use there are alot of 32/36 dfavs on craigslist will those mount up with the adapter plates
Ill post one when I get home and no on the Monterey green hatch as far as I know I've never seen one and we have hundreds of 3geez here in phoenix and hundreds more at the junkyards.Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
My 86' LXi Came with 6" alpine speakers all around, and an Alpine Cassette Head Unit. Head unit still works to this day. The speakers, are fkn glorious too, with my JVC head unit.:bow:
Did they make fixed headlights hatches, coupes, or aerodecks.
Nope, not sure why either as the Aerodeck and Hatch were made in Japan I believe.Quote:
Originally Posted by HERBERT
no coupes or hatches were made with fixed lights. i think the areodeck takes the place for coupe and hatch.Quote:
Originally Posted by HERBERT
Oooooooh, another question:
I know that the sedan's tail lights changed with the facelift, but did the hatch's change as well? I swear, some hatches have one bulb on each side and some have two...
no they are all the same, 86-89, I have a set of 89 right now i'm going to put on the 86, no differenceQuote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...mowaxvalve.jpg
Is there ANY true point to that thermowax valve i've circled in red? I've broken 3 now in a 6 month period, so i solved the problem of poor engineering(Plastic isn't made for 140*F+.) I blocked that bitch off with a 3$ brass end cap, compared to $50+ to break it again sooner or later.
Does it serve ANY purpose, that i'd need it?
BTW, i know that's of a carbed A20. It's all i could find. All my F.I. info covers NOTHING on the thermowax valve.
I believe it has something to do with the advance, but I can't remember off the top of my headQuote:
Originally Posted by firefighterwhite89
There is no thermowax valve on the FI cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by firefighterwhite89
Actually there is. I'd bet $100 on it. Any parts store can verify that. I've replaced the sorry mthr fkr 3 times, now on my 4th. Maybe the 88-89's didn't have them, but my 86' has one on the thermostat housing right before the thermostat, AND the other two F.I. preludes(86 and 87) both had the exact same thermowax valves which i used the valves from til i broke them. It's a really shitty design, as plastic doesn't withstand high temps very long without weakening and it's right there by the vacuum advance to where you brush it, and it breaks in two. Can anyone explain to me what it's for exactly? i just connected both vacuum lines together like the valve is always open. Seems to affect nothing at all...Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
just did an engine swap and mechanical secondary conversion and can get it to turn over but can not get it to start its spraying fuel when i try to start it think it is the fuel because fuel in the tanks is 2 years old my step dad thinks the timings off maybe both ?
uh maby it's the two year old fuel? :facepalm: now that the carb,fuel pump,and lines, as well as both filters are full of that, you have a mess, i have a good used pump if you need to buy one,if it's been submeged in that crap two years, you need one soonQuote:
Originally Posted by b345tifall
well. >.> I kind had 8 year old fuel in my system. XD still worked after cleaning it out alot.
ill try putting new gas in the tank and replacing the filters and see what happens
Which fan is the a/c condensor fan, the one on the passenger side or drivers side?
drivers side i've been told. I always thought they were both for cooling the radiator, not a compressor...Quote:
Originally Posted by Pico
time to put a toggle switch on the a/c fan..thanks for the confirmationQuote:
Originally Posted by firefighterwhite89
I've been thinking about doing the Weber carb Conversion in my 83 accord. How do I figure out if I have an 8 or 12 valve engine? The data plate on the door doesn't say and I've looked all over the engine bay and couldn't find anything there.
I believe all US-market 1983 Accords had the 12-valve EK1.
I saw that on the accord wiki page, it also said that was the year they started making hondas in the US, but mine was made in Japan so I didn't know if it was differentQuote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
It should say on the valve cover. They were pretty proud of the 12-valve engines at that time. If it's stamped steel, it's probably only 8. You could always remove the cover and count the valves too.
I'm new at this so bare with me I just bought a 1988 Honda accord and I want to know what type of coolant does it require , I think I put the wrong one in and I'm also trying to flush It before its too late , I only drove it atound the block I hope I didnt do too much damage
what did you put in it? just use some regular prestone at 50/50 and you'll be fine
Hello everyone I just currently purchased an automatic 1988 Honda accord dx 4 door and I noticed that at stop lights the car shakes a little and the rpm needle is just below the one but when I cold start it the rpm is between 2and 3 I really dont know about this car but really want to know more about it , also I wanted to know why when I turn on my headlights my tail lights and dash lights go off but when I have only my dash lights on my twilights work ,hope u guys can help me out thanks
How do I flush It because I didn't know I had to mix the coolant I'm so stupid . Don't mind that post I read the bottle it said do not add water so Im ok with that .
I have a problem with the electrical in my 1988 Honda accord dx sedan , when I turn on my headlights my dash lights turn off and taillights but the break lights work ,but if I turn on my dash lights my tail lights work but I cant get my headlights on . Sounds confusing if u need me to explain better let me know , and I also changed my reverse light bulb because it was out .
Running the coolant full strength won't hurt anything. If you're worried, drain some out and refill with water. You want to use the green coolant. Stay away from the orange coolant or anything labeled as being for DexCool.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1988lilcasper
Can I use these small lug nuts on my car? They are half the size of the ones that came with my first car, but they have the same amount of thread.
http://i53.tinypic.com/9urn8i.jpg
yup
why can't we have another accord of the month? wouldn't hurt to have one for 2012 :D hope i can be a candidate :)
Itll take lots of work for us new members to become aom or aoy before some veterans on the side Mark.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6
I do agree we needs the AOM nominations back to bring some life back to this site.
Looking for worthwhile investments into my 89 honda accord lxi coupe. I had found tokico hp blue shocks and H&R lowering springs for a more performance mod. to my suspension.
Would it be worth it to install and keep them in after future anticipation of doing an engine swap & upgrade to a 6 speed manual transmission (years down the line)?
i had the same set up. but i had the neuspeed lowering springs that are 1.5 inch drop. its prob a good idea as the stock shocks are probably blownQuote:
Originally Posted by LulamaeA20A3
Thanks-at 218k plus miles I think so. I mainly feel a need to modify when I go around sharper turns like round-abouts a little faster. It doesn't hop or anything like too soft, just want to make her solid. CV boots I know to check and last year my tie rod stripped threads & I lost steering and ability to drive since FR drive. What other tests should I look for with suspension and steering that might be worn?
Why does Honda tell us to bleed our brakes starting at the closest brake to the master cylinder when every other car starts with the farthest?
it's the way it's plumbed to make sure all the air gets out, remember it's also a diagnonal split braking system, so front wheel,opposite rear wheel, rinse,lather,repeatQuote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
i have a 89 carb accord will the a20a3 bolt right up with the engine mounts that are there already i feel kinda dumb for asking but here it is thanks in advance
My car has a hole in the exhaust and I need to replace it but I'm not sure what would be the best choice as a replacement... I don't want the loud obnoxious buzz bomb (I live in the ghetto and that screams "Steal me! My owner loves me!") and would like something quiet and, if possible, pick up the MPG... Any thoughts? This is my first old school car and really want to take good care of it and deck it out.
Thanks for any help you can provide me.
I have factory AC :-DQuote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
Here is my stupid question.
what fucking fuel pump for 800 hp? on e85!
on what car? summit has a bunch of pumps that will do that, most pumps for that kind of horsepower are belt driven off of the engine though.Quote:
Originally Posted by 89T
I want to get an alarm on my car because of all the crackheads that are around my area and wouldn't mind getting key-less entry installed also, is that possible on a 87 Accord LXi Sedan?
my accord lost.
any good suggestion on a bad nut. It was striped and seized, so I went and bought a nut splitter which was to large. So I ended up having to try and drill the nut in half, trying to see if I could get it to break.
However it would seem the nutl is now mixing with the stud and preventing me from breaking it off. T_T looks like I'm going to have to break the stud to get it to work. so this has set me back about 4 hours. which is going to be even longer till I get it off tomorrow *which I only have till 3pm to do, since I have a welcome home party*
where are you going to get that kind of horsepower? the belt driven one is probably the best bet,not a lot of selection when you are talking about that kind of horsepowerQuote:
Originally Posted by 89T
the presision 6262 billet turbo i put on there, at between 30 and 50 psi.
how are you going to keep it from ripping out the motor mounts and spinning on the driveshafts lolQuote:
Originally Posted by 89T
You worry about the fuel issue and I will worry about everything else.:bandit:.Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
yup, just get a cheap alarm and if you're good with wiring, you can install it yourself.Quote:
Originally Posted by StormPlooper
is it by any chance a exhaust nut? if so, hammering a smaller 12 point socket over it sometimes works for me. if it's one that you can access easily, a pipe wrench usually works goodQuote:
Originally Posted by Nio
Read my question again. EVERY car is a split system. Why is the 3g's bleed sequence different from everyone else's?Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
Its the Right nut on the EGR Return line. no way I could even use a wrench on it, half the nut is pretty much gone, not to mention it is in such a horrible spot to begin with, If I can't get it off I can't finish the work on the car. and It pissed me off I wasn't able to at the very least get the crank out today.Quote:
Originally Posted by A18A
I should be able to get the rest of it off if I keep drilling, but its such a pain in the ass.
because of where that wheel is in relation to the proportioning valve, fluid has to travel all the way from the master to the proportioning valve, then turn around and go back to the side of the car with the master, and down to the brake, on the other side it goes from the master to the proportioning valve, then right from the valve down to the brake, i'm leaving the two rear brakes out of this, as the fact the valve is between them and the master, changes the way they bleed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
oh is it that little 12mm one thats almost impossible to get to? I would hammer a smaller socket over it or (if you have access to a welder) weld something to it that you can undoQuote:
Originally Posted by Nio
Thank you for getting back to me! I was told by a friend that I couldn't get key-less entry with the car, but the doors are electric so I couldn't see why that would be an issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by A18A
Unfortunately, I'm not electrically inclined, so I may need to get it installed from a shop or something, but I can't imagine that will be toooo expensive.
So how long has this vtec gauge been out in the civic? Because it seems like im the only one loling at it, and its very lolable IMO. Especially in the ninja commercial.
I think that just came out this year for the facelifted Civic (they are calling it a next generation). That ninja commercial is so JDM. I lol'd too. Dekotora and 8 bit graphics FTW!Quote:
Originally Posted by SZfiftyfour
got a link?Quote:
Originally Posted by SZfiftyfour
Found another small issue with my car... The sun roof is leaking on the passenger side and has about an 1/8 of an inch gap in the top... Checked the rails, that looks normal, nothing appears out of place, even tried moving the ramp back a little... no change.. any thoughts? Thanks again guys!
so i was in 5th gear and stepped on the gas and it made alot of noise but i wasnt speeding up. now my gear doesnt even work. just makes alot of noise when i let out the cluch. prier to the gear going out, 5th made a high pitch ringing noise. not sure if its the tranny or clutch. at idle with clutch out i can hear pieces of something in there. but once i push in the clutch the it sounds normal. i heard when your clutch is going bad the 5th gear goes first. need some help please
That sounds more like a transmission issue. If it was the clutch, I think this would be evident on all of the gears, at least slightly. The sound is probably teeth from the gears clinking and it probably have some missing teeth and is slipping. I know that when my transmission went out on my 64 continental, I would hit the gas and it would make the loud noise and rev, but no speed. It's because there is minimal to no contact being made.Quote:
Originally Posted by tomanymiles...
Hope this helps, sorry to hear about your car.
all my other gears shift smooth and no slipping...Quote:
Originally Posted by StormPlooper
I haven't really been able to find anything about this through search.. Sooo, here goes..
My headlights.. They LOVE to go up, but never go down, I have to pop the hood, and spin the little things with the arrows on them... Not that I mind.. But, it's a bit of a pain, and it's something I was curious about, 90% of the time, I just leave them 'up and open'. I was just wondering if this was a common problem, or even one that's perhaps 'easy' to fix. ;)
Thanks
yup, almost every time that happens it's cause of the faulty switch in the dashboard. replace that and it should work good again
I'm hoping it's an inexpensive fairly easy fix :P where should I get a replacement switch from?
Or, what's it called 'exactly' cause i'm finding a ~lot~ of switches.. O.o electrical isn't my keen spot, i'm familiar with cooling systems and timing systems lol slowly learning the rest. ;)
pm me, it's easy to replace, I have about ten of those switchesQuote:
Originally Posted by J. McNeal
Another question.. Door panels, anyone have a website or know of a place (aside from junkyard trolling) where to get some door panels for an 89 accord coupe lx-i?? i don't care about color, i'm just tired of finding broken or bent ones at the JY.. My car's going to need a lot of interior work and I would rather buy new replacement parts, then get used ones and spend twice as much money making them look nice.
you know you can take the upholstery off right? you aren't going to find new ones, if you do you are going to pay a fortune, the top piece of the panels unscrews from the backing, everything comes apart. you can get the material the panels are made from at any automotive upholstery shop,, it's pretty much a do it yourself deal.Quote:
Originally Posted by J. McNeal
Will a engine from a 3gee drop right into a civic/crx from that same time period?
Thanks
it is not a direct bolt in swap
oh okay. Thanks!
You can damage a single gear in the transmission, it is possible... I'm not a huge expert, but this is what happened to my car before and then one day it wouldn't go forward at all and I had to get the tranny replaced.Quote:
Originally Posted by tomanymiles...
Also, the loud noises can be a gears missing teeth. On one of the gears, the teeth can be missing and then the teeth on the other gear would be smacking into the next teeth on the gear missing teeth, possibly damaging them and giving you that loud noise you are hearing, which is why it is still going but not as fast as it should be.
My 5th gear went out too. Sucks. Sounds like the common 5th gear problem with these model A2K5 trans. Mine made a whining noise though,, but never ANY clinks, though the cat is cut out and straight piped and it's loud enough, i may just not have heard any clinking. The whine actually made the car sound like it was scrolling(supercharged), but only in 5th gear, so i guess it's safe to say, when it starts sounding like it's scrollin', it's about to shatter, break, explode, whatever it does from overheating so hot from lack of oil lubrication. Finally, driving 75mph down I-20 in ATL, 5th gave out completely. You can pull the black cover off the very end of the trans, and take a peak. 5th is right there.:stick:Quote:
Originally Posted by tomanymiles...
If your clutch was going out, it'd be slipping in all gears, especially when plenty of torque/horses was applied i.e WOT etc. And generally, a clutch doesn't slip for longer than a month or two before going out. When it starts to slip, it's already toast. Lostforawhile Knows how to check 5th gear, and any of the guys here can reference you to the hybrid Integra Gear swap into the A2K5.:bong:
This sounds like the throwout bearing.Quote:
Originally Posted by tomanymiles...
the throw out bearing makes noise when the clutch is in. if there's noise with the clutch out, it would be something in the gearbox. probably bits of the teeth from your 5th gear floating around in the gearbox
tomanymiles...
Pull off the black stamped metal cover on the far end of the gear box and check...And if it's not 5th, the stock replacement Clutch, throwout bearing and pressure plate, including clutch pilot is like 99$ at O'Reilly's. Takes like an hour to change the clutch and everything if you have done it before. If not, it's quite easy. Here's the steps for a clutch kit replacement:
Step 1:Place a jack under the trans, and jack it up until it's nice and sturdy holding.
Step 2:Remove the clutch cable from the release shaft and the speedo cable from the rear of the trans. There's also a frame/trans ground to disconnect.
Step 3: Remove all 14mm bolts holding the trans to the block.(I'd mark each bolts place as they will vary in length)
Step 4:Pull the trans from the block and lift out of the car, after lowering the jack slightly.(The trans is gonna weigh a ton. It took me and another friend to manhandle it out of the engine bay, so it'll probably be at least a 2 player ordeal.
Step 5:Remove the special 8mm bolt holding the release bearing and remove the bearing.
Step 6:Separate the release arm from the bearing by removing the clip from the holes in the release bearing.
Step 7:Install the release arm clip back on the new bearing, and reinstall the new bearing/clip with the 8mm bolt.
{Remember to clean and re-grease the release bearing sliding surface}
Step 8:Place a 17mm socket/ratchet on the crank bolt on the belt side(Friend should hold pressure) and remove the 6 12 point 10mm bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel. The clutch disk should fall out when the pressure plate comes off.
Step 9:Reinstall the new clutch disk and pressure plate by aligning the flywheel dowels with the dowel holes in the pressure plate.
Step 10:Align the clutch using your pilot key, and leave the key in there until you've tightened all the 6 10mm 12 point bolts in a criss cross pattern, two turns at a time. (Torque them to 19ft/lbs each)
Step 11:remove the clutch pilot key, and replace the trans on the jack and slide it back on the block(There's dowels to help you align the trans better.)
Step 12:Reinstall all the 14mm trans bolts and remove the jack from underneath.
Step 13:Re-Install your clutch and speedo cables. reattatch the frame/trans ground.
Step 14:Step back, pat yourself on the back and admire your work:bong:. Thank god it's a FWD trans, and not a RWD.
Is it legal to remove the stickers from door jams and under the hood and around the engine and such?
Totally legal...Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
Until Someone Catches You?:banghead:
I'd imagine it's illegal or at LEAST frowned upon, EVEN THOUGH it's your car, and YOU own it, not the Government...Kinda like removing Catalytic Converters...
I'm not talking about shaving VIN's or removing the plate in the door/on the dash; just the interior color code, exterior color code, tire pressure, and the stickers under the hood.
Yeah it's legal and happens all the time, You get in a crash and replace your hood with a aftermarket hood, maybe someone wants the totally change the color of the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
As you said it would only be illegal if you shaved the Vin on the firewall, Dash and doorjam, Though people do that too, I had a friend who had a 86 LX and a 88 LX, the 88 had $700 in back dmv fees and the 86 was current, so he installed a underhood light over the firewall vin and carefully swapped the dash and doorjam vins lol
I got all of the stickers off and now there are clean spots under my hood, haha. I need to pressure wash my engine bay. The door jams look much better, and the engine bay itself looks cleaner.
I know that's true for every other car, but I thought ours were special. Guess not.Quote:
Originally Posted by A18A
you can swap the dash as long as you reinstall your proper vin plate, nothing illegal about that, only if you were trying to install another vin, some people say it's illegal, but if it's the original and it matches the other Vin numbers, I don't see the issue. these cars use standard rivets, some cars have special oddball rivets. It's like if you changed a replacement odometer to match your current one, technically illegal, but you aren't trying to deceive anyone
our cars are special :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
i am going to be buying F1 stage 1 clutch kit for my ride since i have to pull it.
I was wondering if anyone could help me find a 10 pound or 12 pound flywheel for my ride
I have 88 accord LX-i with the A20A3 motor 5 speed.
