but the question still remains when doing a puck or windowed style clutch do you go with the 3,4,6 puck clutch?
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but the question still remains when doing a puck or windowed style clutch do you go with the 3,4,6 puck clutch?
it depends on the pressure plate strength and how much you wanna hold
well the act pressure plate is rated 88% more hold and it would need to hold something around 300-350 ft lbs tq but with the ability to maintane at say a 3500 drop
is there a better way to remove the transmission with the engine still in there? looks like there are lots of stuff in the way at the top and bottom of the transmission and it doesn't seem like there is enough room to slide the transmission out of the engine since it's already 1" close to the passenger side frame. anyways if not, i might have to take out the engine anyways. it needs new gaskets and seals.
There's plenty of room to remove the transmission with the engine still in ;)
You can lower the engine a bit when it's only hanging by the last two mounts which will give you a bit more room to slide out the tranny.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thegreatdane
The manual tranny is not too heavy to lift into place into the engine is it? Or would I need a hydraulic engine hoist?
its like 100lb or so. You should be able to lift it and put it in/out via the bottom, just take out the axles and that crossmember, itll come right out. Note this is not possible with an auto tranny on these cars unless you remove the radius rod. 5 speed will come right out
yeah the auto's coming out. looks like the radius rod has to come out. that's what i figured.Quote:
Originally Posted by AccordEpicenter
.....wait, i have to take out the rear crossmember? that's gonna be a bitch. the power steering rack is there i don't want to have to mess with the power steering lines again. i did that before when i replaced the power steering rack. what a pain in the ass that was. i might as well just remove the whole front radiator support & bumper area and the hood and lift the entire engine/tranny assembly front and forward out of there and work on it in my garage where it's warm. plus, it would give me a chance to really clean up that engine bay with the engine out.
try driving it with the eacv unplugged. that's hard.Quote:
Originally Posted by AccordEpicenter
no iceman hes talking about the crossmember that goes from the front radiator support to the rear support under the tranny/engine. If thats out and everything is disconnected tilt the engine down quite a ways to get the auto tranny out. youll see how much lighter and more room you gain by scrapping the auto and going manual
The manual tranny is not heavy at all. I "man handled" it down to the floor. I used a floor jack to move into position. To be on the safe side, use a floor jack to lower it. Just remove everything first.Quote:
Originally Posted by ICEMAN707
Subframe center beam
Assorted cables & hoses
Losen knuckles & pull CV joints out
As for as which clutch is good, I'm not sure. As long as the pressure plate is strong & the disc is made of good material, it's good to go in my book.
Edit- add on
cool i guess all those pushups will come in handy. lol. ....and yeah i just realized he meant the engine support beam underneath. duh! well, this should be fun. it seems like i have more fun taking apart the car and putting it back together than actually driving it. especially having air tools. i love my air tools.
"driving it is just the tootsie roll center of a tootsie pop. fixing up/hooking up your car is the candy....KAAAAAANDEEHHHH!" lol :rockon:
i haven't decided yet. but it looks like it's gonna be clutchnet for me too. cheap and good quality. who could say no to that?Quote:
Originally Posted by cke
i'm not planning on spending too much on this 5 spd swap cus i still need to scrounge up some cash for my engine swap project. i'm gonna start off with h-series first but if all fails, im gonna go b-series. i plan on taking hasport's EF 88-91 civic/crx h22 swap kit and modifying the 3gee engine bay and crossmembers to accept those mounts... or just make custom mounts myself with a CAD program and take it to a CNC machine shop to get done. that's what hasport does to make their mounts anyways. they're just bitches to not make mounts for 3gees, so you gotta do it yourself...booooo!
another thread jack. heres my plan, clutchnet PP with OEM clutch disc. now heres the sad part on my part. whats the pressure plate there for what exactly does it do for performance and off the line launches?
So i'm confused.. will i have better grip with a SS, or a 4/6puck?
its all about amount of force applied by the pressure plate and the type of material used in cunjuction with surface area. Most aftermarket pressure plates have a higher holding pressure so the pedal itself is harder to depress but it will yield a greater overall tention to the clutch disk to flywheel.
The type of clutch disk or material used is dependant on the type of driving. Street stock/oem units use a organic non asbestis but a cousin therein that hasnt been used long enough to determine if it will cause cancer as a frition plate. The puck disks are commonly a ceramic/ kevlar/ nomex type. These have greater friction properties and allow for more or a tighter grab when applied. If you combine the 2 in any sequence you can decide if you want a oem style for a high horse N/A motor usually a good choice for street stock/strip disks. If your running drag or a faster reving circle track a 4 puck is desired as its lighter but has the mostly the same properties as a 6 puck. The 6 puck is indeed heavier which is better for torque and usually rated the same as a 3-4 puck. Myself afterarket pressure plates are a must for any level of upgraded performance. And although they dont whereout you can fatigue the steel and break them.
So for a strong NA would u recommend the ACT SS or the 4puck... it will be a daily driven car n I'm realy hard on clutches so I need durability, But grip is of the utmost importance...
ive got an act ss for my autocross project. I got the extreme pressure plate and ss disk. according to there info its rated 310 ft lbs tq which is how youd rate them. HP is irrelevant when your talking gripping power. Im going to use it on my setup. So unless your planning on making more then that Id say your good. If you want to do alot of high rev drops dont get a sprung clutch hub.
u got an extreme for the accord?.. I can only seem to find the HDs....
its for the jdm b20a. 88-89 prelude. sorry should have clarified
i do high rev dumps with a sprung clutch... What are you getting at myqwick?
My 88-89 prelude Si bought clutch didn't fit my gold top b20a b2k5 transmission. I can only assume that the 90-91 b20a5 clutch kit is the one I'm really looking for?
I suppose they could have sent me the wrong clutch... but it seemed to be what it said it was..
we had to use my old pressure plate... and we used a stock a20 clutch itself.
well accordepicenter I cant say from practce but from reading online alone. Not from experience so I may be wrong but the spring retainers usually dont last too long with an aggressive setup and high rev drops. The springs are good for the synchrosso Id use a sprung clutch anyway. A clutch disk is alot cheaper than synchros anyday. But yeah from what Ive read people tend to launch springs or break retainers causing launched springs from doing this.
Like I said only what Ive read. Correct ,e if Im wrong. I hate giving misinformation. Mike
ehh i guess it depends on the clutch, mike. On a stock type disk or a weak aftermarket disk the springs do tend to pop out somtimes. Ive heard of this happening with a few ACT clutches and Centerforce clutches etc. Clutchnet pockets the springs so they generally dont fall out. They also use more of them. Ill tell you that the weight difference with the sprung and unsprung makes a difference in how fast you can shift. With a lightweight non sprung disk you can shift faster but for driveability and shock resistance i use a sprung hub.
i'm interested going to be doing a 5-speed swap and in the process, buying at least clutch + pp brand new. my power level isn't too high. just i/h/e and i'll probably put in a delta cam soon. anyway, i was thinking of going with a clutchnet 6 puck sprung hub for the clutch disc. but my real question is for the pressure plate. would a green level pressure plate be enough for my projected power level? i like the attractive pricing of the greens--$85--which is much better on my wallet than the $195 for the yellow pressue plate. my car is my daily driver and i live in socal, so there's practically always traffic everywhere. so is that a good combo? 6-puck disc + green pp or should i just go on and spend the money on the yellow? also, b20a is coming within a year, so even if the pressure plate won't last forever, i'll be fine with that since it'll be getting replaced anyway within 9 months-1 year.
