So Im Rebuilding

Unless you're doing a serious amount of nitrous I'm not sure you want to be doing things like coating pistons. It's one of those things where if you were at that level of build you would also have upgraded pistons and rods as well. The idea is to pick a level of performance and choose the parts to fit that performance level. Otherwise you end up spending money in places where it doesn't matter, or not enough in places where it does.

I guess it would depend on how much nitrous and how much the coating costs. Someone else might have a more informed opinion on this.

C|

Ok, so valvetrain parts. Here's a list of stuff to replace:
https://www.hondapartsdeals.com/imag...SB00.023.5.gif
Part No. Ill. No. Description Req. Qty Price
14621-PC6-600 001 ARM A, VALVE ROCKER 6 $11.68
14622-PC6-600 002 ARM B, VALVE ROCKER 6 $11.68
14745-657-000 012 SCREW, TAPPET ADJUSTING 12 $3.34
14751-PC6-003 013 SPRING, EX. VALVE (INNER) 4 $5.00
14761-PC6-004 014 SPRING, EX. VALVE (OUTER) 4 $6.06
14762-PC6-003 015 SPRING, VALVE 8 $7.78
14765-PC6-000 016 RETAINER, IN. VALVE SPRING 8 $2.22
14766-PC6-000 017 RETAINER, EX. VALVE SPRING 4 $2.22
14768-689-000 018 COTTER, VALVE 8 $1.91
14775-PH1-003 019 SEAT, IN. VALVE SPRING 8 $1.90
14776-PH1-003 020 SEAT, EX. VALVE SPRING 4 $2.11
14781-MB9-000 021 COTTER, VALVE 16 $1.67


The total cost here is $379. I still think you could snag most of these parts form a junkyard and save some money. But new parts are good too of course.

C|

here is the motor havent started to tare into it ye its still 90 degrees out lol so im gona wait for a bit lol
pics
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1529.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1530.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1531.jpg
and we only had one prob bolt on the flywhell and this is what it looks like now lol
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1533.jpg

Before you order any parts, take the block, head, and crank to the shop and have them checked out. That way you know if the block needs to be bored and if any other parts need to be replaced. It's easier to order lots of parts at once than to order a few here and there. Trust me, I learned the hard way.

C|

Exactly. Nothing says bitch like buying an entire non-returnable engine kit and finding out that the cylinders have already been bored .010 over and the crank needs a spin and undersize bearings. I also found out that the engine builders get their kits for about half what the average joe pays at the parts stores. Of course, after I bought mine.

got it striped down heres some pics lol
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1534.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1535.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1536.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1537.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1538.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1539.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1540.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1541.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1542.jpg
couldn't figure out how to get the bottom timing cover off so i jucst cut the timing belt im putting a new one on any ways

Damm that was quick...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by picopop

Damm that was quick...

---

lol i couldent wait i told u i was thinking about this thing for the last 2 weeks lol

fun! :D

Any pics of the head?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Vanilla Sky

Any pics of the head?

---

ill get some in the morning

looks like a good candidate for a rebuild

Apart from the oveheated oil looks like a perfectly rebuildable engine, honing marks still on bores so has done little mileage and had been serviced properly for most of it's early life. I'm guessing it's probably done between 80-100k miles only. The biggest thing to worry about is wear on the camshaft bearings on the head if there good everything else is easily fixable just get the bare head and block xrayed to check for cracks before you start machining it and buying parts. Block looks pretty clean not a lot of rust must have lived in a dry area most it's life. Good find anyways what you doing about gearbox?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rjudgey

Apart from the oveheated oil looks like a perfectly rebuildable engine, honing marks still on bores so has done little mileage and had been serviced properly for most of it's early life. I'm guessing it's probably done between 80-100k miles only. The biggest thing to worry about is wear on the camshaft bearings on the head if there good everything else is easily fixable just get the bare head and block xrayed to check for cracks before you start machining it and buying parts. Block looks pretty clean not a lot of rust must have lived in a dry area most it's life. Good find anyways what you doing about gearbox?

---

well it had 300k form what the guy said so idk lol also with the tranny i have 3 5speed's im planing on doing the teg swap on one of
them

blimey KM's or Miles? I've seen engines with 1/4 of that mileage look as bad as yours!! The bores look good what ever the mileage the head looks like the worst of it best thing to do is get all that shit chemically cleaned of it everything needs to be shiny and new!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rjudgey

blimey KM's or Miles? I've seen engines with 1/4 of that mileage look as bad as yours!! The bores look good what ever the mileage the head looks like the worst of it best thing to do is get all that shit chemically cleaned of it everything needs to be shiny and new!!

---

thats miles i plane on taking everything apart for sure bare everything

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Vanilla Sky

Any pics of the head?

---

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1554.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1553.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1552.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1548.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1547.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1546.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1545.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...y/101_1543.jpg

looking good geddy :D

Looks like the guides on chamber one are shot as theres loads of oil on the chamber unlike the other 3 or maybe the rings are shot but more likely excessive guide wear or the seals are shot or both even!!. I love stripping old engines and re-building best thing to do on cars it's just a shame you can can't do the same to a car so easily!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rjudgey

Looks like the guides on chamber one are shot as theres loads of oil on the chamber unlike the other 3 or maybe the rings are shot but more likely excessive guide wear or the seals are shot or both even!!. I love stripping old engines and re-building best thing to do on cars it's just a shame you can can't do the same to a car so easily!!

---

i see what ur talking about how its more shinny in no1

im still looking for a machine shop here.

so ive decided to go all out lol but i need some help lol i need to knwo what kind and place to get the best pistons i can get for a na setup im not to tech on motors so i have no clue were to start

Hooray for going all out! I could answer some of your questions, but they would just leave you wondering more. I'll let someone more experienced handle them.

ok so i talked to a local machine shop and its 100 to ge tthe block and head cleaned and xrayed so im gona do that this fri is there anything else i should have done at this time also i need some help on rods and pistons anyone got a good combo

The block if good could do with flatening the deck to make sure it's flat, you can take a little more off than normal to increase CR ratio too while your at it but nothing dramatic .5mm at most I'd say do the same to the head but you need to machine the chambers and flwo the head first before skiming the head this should be the second to last thing you do to the head before putting it back together the last thing is to smooth the edge of the chamber off after it's been skimmed to stop pre-ignition happening.