Tomisimo's Black.87.Sedan B20a Build Thread

I live in Trondheim area at the moment, but we going to move soon sometime this summer up north. I think the best would be a Gatebil meet in Runskogen, we can arrange a tent with 3Geez logo. but it depends. I think that if we do this meet, we need to go someplace where nice roads are and we can sleep over, like you said a camping. maybe take a drive 3 of us. We dont have Swedish 3Geezer?

HountedCA3 thanks for pointing that out, I was wondering of what it was. Thats cool thing to have. if I get it boosted one day.

i thought all b20a has oil coolers?? all of mine have

must be a blacktop thing

havnt noticed one on mine eh

mine has one too lol

How do you guys take out that bolt that goes tru bushing at the strut fork? mine want budge at all, I can turn whole bushing inside control arm but bolt just want go out.

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Originally Posted by Tomisimo

I live in Trondheim area at the moment, but we going to move soon sometime this summer up north. I think the best would be a Gatebil meet in Runskogen, we can arrange a tent with 3Geez logo. but it depends. I think that if we do this meet, we need to go someplace where nice roads are and we can sleep over, like you said a camping. maybe take a drive 3 of us. We dont have Swedish 3Geezer?

HountedCA3 thanks for pointing that out, I was wondering of what it was. Thats cool thing to have. if I get it boosted one day.

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I think I've seen some swedish guy here... But no one that seems to be around too often.


Would take me a while to get to that Rudskogen place

From Vaasa to Rudskogen Motorsenter1,112 km – about 16 hours 11 mins


And the ferry on top of that... which is either 2 or 9 hours depending on if I go over here or from Turku.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tomisimo

How do you guys take out that bolt that goes tru bushing at the strut fork? mine want budge at all, I can turn whole bushing inside control arm but bolt just want go out.

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This is because rust formed between the bushing sleeve and the bolt.

If you can turn the whole bushing, this means it needs to be replaced. Take a torch and heat the sleeve as much as you can and spray it with penetrating lubricant. This is the only way to take the bolt out. The bushing will be dead but you'll have to replace it anyway.

However, since this is quite time consuming and might overcome the cost of a new bolt and bushing, you could just saw the bolt off and install a new bolt and bushing combo.

Thanks Carotman, I tried to loosen it up with wrench on the other side of the bolt but before I knew it it just turned around, bushing that is. I have a set of bolts laing around someplace so its cool, but new bushing hmm.. Can I still use it if I get it out, for some time. I wanted to change all of then anyways soon..
and Carot, do you know if front sway bar from 4G will fit our cars? I remember seeing in some thread but its just to much balls in the air in most threads so I'm not really sure.

Naf's, I can understand that you have a long drive there. If I move to Alta than I will have to drive as far as you do. But we can always meet someplace in sweeden, they have great roads there so sud be quick then :D We need to wait for Marthin, and see what he think about that idea.

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Originally Posted by Tomisimo

Naf's, I can understand that you have a long drive there. If I move to Alta than I will have to drive as far as you do. But we can always meet someplace in sweeden, they have great roads there so sud be quick then :D We need to wait for Marthin, and see what he think about that idea.

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Alta...

*googles*

Damn, that is north. A bit further and you'd be going south again ;)

Would be cool to do something like this, let's hope gas prices go down next year... Sucks that the ferry that goes over to Umeå from here is so damn expensive it's probably cheaper to drive up and down through Tornio/Haparanda.

Yea no shit, this is almost as far north as it gets... but but. Convert to LPG, its cheap fuel. I know I want. under 2liters for 1euro its a price I can live with.

The engine is out :D had few problems but all in all good progress. here some picks.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde000-2.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde001-2.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde002-1.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde004-1.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde003-2.jpg
its dirty as hell so the engine bay. but at least I have a chance to clean it out :D so now to the A20, I have to swap radiator from my other car as well because this in black one is rotten. othar than that is all good.
Ordered new timing belt today for A20, and I have new clutch with refurbished flywheel, so going to replace that too. before drop it in. some day soon I hope if weather stays clear.

and this is what I did, I raped that LCA along with strut fork. I have a spare set so its not a big deal. Goig to use LCA from my other car.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...ilde0001-1.jpg
and dirty engine bay
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...ilde0021-1.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...ilde0031-1.jpg
what is best house hold residue is best to wash with? and what you guys clean hoses with?

Good job!

To clean the enginebay. I use a stuff called "Simple Green". I don't know if it's available where you live.

Simple Green FTW! Also that Citrus / Orange cleaner works REALLY damn well.

...so we got Simple Green, Citrus Orange, and I use Purple Power.

All work real well.

Anything blue? ;)

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Originally Posted by Tomisimo

Marthin, can you give me parts list? of what do I need for OBD1 swap? And what do you think is best? over internet or me sending you pats or me coming to Denmark to do this swap?

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Hehe you're welcome to come here to get the swap done but I think that would be way way too much trouble for yourself. I think you can do everything yourself but if there's anything you get stuck with you can send it to me if you like.
I would recommend the following parts:

Acura Integra LS B18B OBD1 distributor with cut engine harness connectors included
Chipped P06 or P28 ecu
B-series plug for exhaust cam hole (or make something yourself - I did).
OBD1 ecu conversion harness (or DIY, requires 1 old obd0 ecu and a cut obd1 ecu connector)
B16A2 or other compatable intake manifold with throttlebody, cut TPS engine harness connector, IACV, cut IACV engine harness connector and fuel rail included
~3 meters of shielded wire
Wideband O2 sensor (Innovate LC1 is fine)
or optionally if you dont want to tune anything yourself you can leave out the O2 sensor entirely or you can install standard narrowband sensor which requires:
O2 sensor with cut engine harness connector (you can use old type 1 wire sensor or newer type 4 wire heated sensor)
O2 sensor steel weld-in bung to weld into your downpipe (or replace your header with something else that already has an O2 sensor)
Gauge cluster from accord with cruise control

I think that's it more or less.
What's the reason you want to go OBD1?
If it's not because you want to get the engine properly tuned it's probably not worth the trouble.
I really like the OBD1 conversion because it makes the engine bay alot cleaner but that is probably not reason enough for you to go OBD1.

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Originally Posted by Tomisimo

I have a lill Idea for you and Naf, what if we do a meet in sweden? you in your nice silver, hem in hes cool red and me in my black accord. next summer or something :D Do som like B20a meet

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That would be cool. Question is if it's logistically possible?

I wouldnt mind driving to Rudskogen as it's only ~500 km plus a ~100euro ferry or bridge ticket, but looks like Nafs is stuck behind the Gulf of Bothnia.
How much are those ferries Nafs? You're probably the one who will be able to travel the shortest distance for X money.

Also I'm not excactly sure what my options are next year as I'll be into my first year of studying as an engineer at that time, so I'm not sure if I'll be able to afford having a car registered :/
But I'm up for something if I have the option.
Never been to sweden or norway yet, or finland for that matter, and would love to go.
I'm taking a trip to mont blanc in france in a couple of weeks in my silver 16v accord. 1300 km and mountain roads should put it to the test :)

And holy shit Tom, Alta is far up north! you are going to freeze your ass off up there. You will need a snow mobile and not a car lol

/End of marathon post

Lol that strut fork sure got taken care of :) It sucks ass when they're seized and they usually are on old accords where we live.

Pulling an engine hoist around on a gravel road is a bitch isnt it haha. I've done it a couple of times so I know the feeling lol

Looks like your alternator was replaced recently which is good because they cost an arm and a leg. And I can see you know the old powersteering reservoir hose trick :)

progress.....looks good so far

petrol cleans a engine bay all good too :)

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Originally Posted by thegreatdane

That would be cool. Question is if it's logistically possible?

I wouldnt mind driving to Rudskogen as it's only ~500 km plus a ~100euro ferry or bridge ticket, but looks like Nafs is stuck behind the Gulf of Bothnia.
How much are those ferries Nafs? You're probably the one who will be able to travel the shortest distance for X money.

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The ferry from here to Umeå is 60 euro/person and 65 euro for the car, one way. That one takes about 2 hours to get to the other side.

If I drive down to Turku and take the ferry to Stockholm it's 11 euro/person, or 45 euro and up for a cabin (1-4 persons) plus anywhere between 20 and 70 euro for the car, depending on date and time. But this one makes a stop in Åland, so the trip is like 10 hours.

Anyhow if we do this, I wouldn't be going on my lonesome. I'd probably have to make it a family trip (we got two kids, 1.5 and 3.5 years old).

So for the round trip with the ferrys it'd be up to around 200-250 euro, plus gas and food... Yeah when I think about it the only way to do this for would be to make the whole deal a summer vacation camping trip on our part, bet the kids would love it too. Would just need to go somewhere with an amusement park or something like that.

Shouldn't be that hard to save up the cash for either, a whole year to go. :)

Or if I were to drive around the gulf, we'd all have roughly the same distance to go if we met up somewhere in the middle of sweden. And if Tom is coming down from Alta, we could meet up on Haparanda on the way. Would mean over 1000 km's of driving for each tho.

Thanks guys for replys. really helps me and motivates me. Today I havent done nothing at all, its poring rain like from a bucket. and it cold outside.

Marthin the main reason I want to do OBD1 swap is because I'm going with B16a pistons and maybe B18a/b cams. And porting head. So I want it to be tuned if I want to get 200hp out of it, I see no other choice. And as a bonus I get clean engine bay as well. I set a goal of 200Hp from N/A engine so thats what I'm aiming for.
hehe you noticed it with PS trick, I havent thought about it, I just did. And its a such pain in the ass to pull that lift across gravel, so I going to use plywood next time. I almost shit my self when I drag it.
Yes the alternator is changed for about 5k kilometers back, and they are to expensive indeed, I'm glad its new. Dos it fit A20 or not, because my is busted on A20. it charge, than it dont charge. I think I fried diodes on it.
Thanks for the list of parts it really helps, now I just need to get my head around and find all that stuff, when its all gathered I will start on this swap, I'm thinking that It would be best if I took a snap tour to you and did it with ya if you dont mind, and get a lill vacation at the same time some time next year I think.

Naf's it souds good If you take your family with you, I dont mind at all about that, as long its not going to be hard on your smallest guy. its a long road trip for that age. There is Liseberg amusement park in sweeden we can go to. and if I'm in Alta at that time, we do can meet half way and drive together. could be fun :D or I can drive sometime sooner to finland and meet with you.

alternators will not swap but you can simply pull the alternator apart and swap your good rectifier, brushes and regulator from one into the other.

my 3g had thick carbon build up like that was from running rich .. apparently everything in the block was still in excellent condition and would have probably gone another 200k miles with a new head gasket

well I wrote a damn long post and my firefox shot down, so I lost everything I wrote. but here a revue.
I took out A20 today and swapped radiators. Picks say it all!
Enjoy.. I'm off to bed its 2:30AM now and I'm tired.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245285007
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245285050
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245285070
here'is heart transplant table haha..
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245285094
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245285169
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245285180
And finally out. It rests now. Timing belt is here so that will be changed ASAP, about that. Can you guys tell me how to take off crank pulley? I cant lock it in place to unbolt it. Any tips? Thanks
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245285202
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245285334
And Radiator swap. the one that was on a Black Accord is turned green and rotten, so I swapped Propeller. wash it and installed it.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245285361
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245285473
And if you notice on first pick of radiators, bottom bolts are so rusted that I needed to use undersize wrench to take that prop off. And I ratle painted those just in case it never happen again. you never see them anyway. might as well be red...

well I'm done for today... More to come soon