How to turn the "dead tail light" light off...

Okay, I understand everyone's points, and here's what I have to say:

Everyone has their opinion, that I respect, but I like the less-lights look better. People do stuff to their cars that they like that I find unappealing. Even the new 2010 Odysseys have "lights" that don't light up when you hit the brakes (okay, they are driving lights, I'll give you guys that).

Problems: The socket to my middle light looks fried (from my ingenious idea above), and the light stopped working (this is what initially gave me the idea, since this caused the warning light to turn on). Another thing; when I bought the car, both of the housings to the inner tail lights and reverse lights were all fugged up. So, I don't even have reverse lights. The piece of metal that directs the lights out are all bent up, and both screw holes on both sides are broken off, so right now, they're duct taped to the inside of my trunk lid. Even with bulbs there, you can barely see the lights.

If what everyone says is true about all these asshole cops, I would have a dozen tickets by now. But, I only have one, and it's from the accident. I've been pulled over for doing 50mph in a 35mph (no ticket), "running" a red light (ticket, but dropped), and for having expired tabs (no ticket). The first two were in my first coupe, which had all five tail lights, but no license plate lights and no front plate.

More feedback, please. This is helping a lot with my decision. And, no, I'm not the NorthWest CAH. Don't insult me for trying.

haha, that was an inside joke...

I will definitely agree with you that its your car. Do with it what you will, and ignore everyone else. What is your goal with this again? You removed the center tail correct? Did you want running lamps only on the center ones, or did you want them completely off? I know your original question was how to get the dead tail light indicator off, but these are questions that need answered.

If you want them completely off, you will need to get an ohm meter to measure the resistance in the original bulbs, and wire in resistors of the same resistance. The wiring intact on the fried socket?

I think the wiring and socket are fine, but the bulb just went out. I don't want any light at all in the middle section, like there is (isn't?) now.

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Originally Posted by Charlie

I think the wiring and socket are fine, but the bulb just went out. I don't want any light at all in the middle section, like there is (isn't?) now.

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Then you might just splice the wires for the middle sockets to the outer sockets. This should provide resistance i would think.

Huh?

Never mind. I basically just suggested you fry another socket, and then realized i was being stupid.

just wire in a relay or something in place of the inner bulbs, that should provide enough resistance to make the fail light go out

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Originally Posted by 2drSE-i

Never mind. I basically just suggested you fry another socket, and then realized i was being stupid.

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Don't worry, because I didn't understand a word you said.

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Originally Posted by A18A

just wire in a relay or something in place of the inner bulbs, that should provide enough resistance to make the fail light go out

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But, people above said no relays...

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Originally Posted by A18A

just wire in a relay or something in place of the inner bulbs, that should provide enough resistance to make the fail light go out

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i think what he means is the coil of the relay replace the bulb.

here you go, you would only need to use one side of this but it's basically a power resistor that loads the circuit to make it think the bulb is good. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tchlink:top:en

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Originally Posted by lostforawhile

here you go, you would only need to use one side of this but it's basically a power resistor that loads the circuit to make it think the bulb is good.

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So, I would get three, and splice those into the wires?

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Originally Posted by Charlie

So, I would get three, and splice those into the wires?

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well on that one it would have two wires one to load each turn signal,probably with internal diodes to isolate one from the other, one wire on the unit goes to ground, and one of each other wire goes to the hot wire at a bulb. you would need two units one unit for the two center lamps and one for the third brake lights. they create a load from the lamp through a resistor to ground

if you have a fuel injector lying around, use that, its perfect :D

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Originally Posted by A18A

if you have a fuel injector lying around, use that, its perfect :D

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i never thought of using the resistor box,

The more and brighter the lights in back, the better. If you have ever been rearended by some idiot snapping your neck is not fun. Trust me the pain doesn't go away in a short period of time. It sucks when you can't turn your head real fast to the left or right for fear of cracking your neck. You can do like they do here in Alabama and just bust it out then you won't have lights in the center. ;-)

I think I'm going to put the lights back in. I was following a newer coupe with the exact same "modification" and I almost rear-ended him because I didn't know he was stopping.

http://www.fsu.edu/~crimdo/images/anirocket.gif

Back to the running lights then.