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you just remove the center cross member you don't even have to jack up the engine, drop the exhaust pipe and then you can take off the pan. the exhaust is in two pieces the one from the manifold to the converter and the one from past the converter backQuote:
Originally Posted by EbidaDragon
Thank you, thank you! Since it's just that crossmember, I'm really itching to replace that oil pan gasket this weekend, but I'm getting a little back and forth on whether or not my oil filter base gasket is bad or good. I'll be checking this weekend when I get 'ir on ramps or jackstands.Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
Since I'm new, there's probably going to be a lot of stupid questions from me, so, here's another
I ended up simply removing my hot air pipe(from exhaust mani[cover?] to air intake) because it was getting very frayed and the fabric finally ripped big time when it got some P/S fluid from my pressure hose leak on it :/
My question is, then..Do I really -need- a new hot air pipe(They seem to be fully discontinued; parts yard go?), or should I just find a way to cover the exhaust mani end and keep it off? I would assume an oversaturation of hot air into my engine isn't the best for overall performance, and am guessing the hot air pipe is more of a help during winter or engine warmup.
Seems like I'm getting an awful lot of extra noise(bass-y exhaust rumble) with it off, so I'm trying to plan something for the area.
You should be able to replace that hose with a universal one from an auto parts store. It is useful, so I'd say keep it.
Has anyone done an HID conversion?
I used to have and hid kit on my car. 6k color, it was really nice and clear light. There usually around $100 buck for the bi-xenon hid kit. I got mine from blindinghids.com but looking back now I paid way to much for emQuote:
Originally Posted by Metal_GearRex94
Just take the shield and hose off and throw away.You only need that stuff if you have cold winters.
it actually keeps the air temp about 90, the mixture and setting for the stupid keihin were all set taking that into account, most of the time the air flapper control diaphragm leaks anyway and the system doesn't workQuote:
Originally Posted by import racer
Who do I talk to about my build thread in the general section being moved to project central, now that I'm a foundation member
Okay, my questions have usually been pretty low-IQ, but I think this one takes the cake..
As I keep looking, and looking, and looking at our gauge clusters(both FI and carb'd)..I have one really dumb question..
Is my 88 CA5 (LX/4D)not supposed to have a CEL in the cluster? I just went out and re-checked my indicator lights(again)..and this still baffles me :x
No check engine lights for carbureted models!
the carb car has both a computer that controls major parts of the carb and a mechanical system that does the same, neither system interacts and there is no check engine light to tell you when something fails, genius right?Quote:
Originally Posted by EbidaDragon
Urge..to spend weeks on EFI..rising :|Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
I recently bought a set of 17in rims for my 1989 honda accord lxi. They are in pretty terrible condition (which is why i got them for cheap). I was wondering if anyone knew some good ways to clean them up the best i can. I realize that they definitely are not going to look amazing when i'm done but i want to make em look as good as i can myself. They have black spokes and a chrome lip. The chrome is flaking, has some oxidation all over and every rim has pretty bad curb rash. I appreciate any suggestions or links on how to clean them up. Thanks.
I have pics of them but apparently i cant attach them...
Sand them, hit them with some decent paint. It doesn't have to be wheel paint, but choose something known to be a durable, hard paint. It took me 2 attempts to get my wheels where they are, and they aren't great by any measure.
Sand down the curb rash, wire brush them, wet sand and paint. Use a filler like Bondo on any deep pits. You can also consider media blasting them.
yea i was thinking some of the same things you all suggested just didnt know if sanding chrome was a good idea and didnt want to scar it all up.
If chunks of it are missing then you'll have to paint over it.
gotcha...why cant i post pictures? is that a privilege the new guy doesn't have or something?
Gotta have 5 posts before you can post pics. It weeds out a lot of spam.
Actually, we dropped that requirement. To post pics, you need to upload them to an image host (like imgur.com) then get the "bbcode" and paste it in here.
Mine were pretty beat up before I did mine,and I used a dremel tool to get rid of the curb damage.Then sand with different grits of sand paper til smooth,then used etching primer .top coated with several coats of paint and clear.Make sure each coat is dry before moving to the next step.
How does one remove the coolant overflow reservoir? The sedan's is cracked and when the car warms leaks like the Titanic.
its just clipped in place, just give it a bit of a yank in the upwards direction and it should come off.
Most paints have a period in which you can lay another coat before having to wait for a full cure. For instance, the wheel paint I used required all coats to be laid within an hour of the first coat or wait until full cure. If you're spray bombing, the can should say. Most paint companies have a tech line if you have questions regarding questions like that if you're not sure. In my case, I had no option to spray my wheels in the right conditions, so I ended up with a longer cure time due to the high humidity.Quote:
Originally Posted by import racer
pics of my rims that i need to clean up. after i get them as clean as they're gunna get i'll probably just plasti-dip em rather than paint em. Only prob with that is that i wanted to keep the shiny chrome lip but blacking them out is fine i guess.
http://imgur.com/a/kukik#yGsmu
