How to swap in a b series without a kit..pics inside

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Originally Posted by Legend_master

Yep the 86-89 integra passenger side axles fits like a glove. That is weired that the problem you had was was completely different then mine. MY drivers side was to short and my pass was to long using the 90-93 integra axles. If you ever have to have the drivers side replaced then you will need to go custom.

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I bought my whole swap kit from another member as well and he gave me some axles that he said were PRI axles. I didn't give another thought to it until I started driving the thing. The whole car shook like crazy and I was like WTF? I ordered a new driver side from PRI and they're instructions talked about end play. Well, my axle had no end play. It was jammed in there real good. But anyway, whatever axles I ended up with were def. not PRI. Seems the tranny should have been shifted closer to the pass. side with the axles I had. I've been running the PRI driver side for the past year or 2 and that thing works like a charm.

yeah, 89 teg pass axle for the passenger side is how we do it..and for the driver's side, the stock pass side accord axle + the integra end or the 84-87 lude axle with the accord and integra ends..

you and legend master, what do you guys think about having only 3 mounts as far as annoying vibration in the dash? I can watch my back mount flex back and forth, flexing the crossmember and transmitting annoying vibration into my dash..I am going to get a front mount and attach it to a tubular front crossmember that I'll fabricate to accomodate a large downpipe and turbo setup..

p.s. I thought my action 2ms clutch and act 12lb flywheel was going to be hard to drive..not even. I can let the car roll back down my driveway and catch it with the clutch without stalling, bucking, etc, too bad..that's cool for a clutch that will hold 500+whp, I've driven n/a combinations that I would consider undriveable, that wouldn't hold shit compared to what I have..

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Originally Posted by Accordtheory

yeah, 89 teg pass axle for the passenger side is how we do it..and for the driver's side, the stock pass side accord axle + the integra end or the 84-87 lude axle with the accord and integra ends..
you and legend master, what do you guys think about having only 3 mounts as far as annoying vibration in the dash? I can watch my back mount flex back and forth, flexing the crossmember and transmitting annoying vibration into my dash..I am going to get a front mount and attach it to a tubular front crossmember that I'll fabricate to accomodate a large downpipe and turbo setup..
p.s. I thought my action 2ms clutch and act 12lb flywheel was going to be hard to drive..not even. I can let the car roll back down my driveway and catch it with the clutch without stalling, bucking, etc, too bad..that's cool for a clutch that will hold 500+whp, I've driven n/a combinations that I would consider undriveable, that wouldn't hold shit compared to what I have..

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I am in the work of a front mount right now. I had to fab up a bracket for the block, but I am using the stock accord mount. If that dosent work I am going to try an H22 front mount.

I'm just going to get the front mount from innovativemounts.com for the 90-93 b series and make my own bracket at the crossmember. I haven't decided on what hardness I'm going to use yet though. I have the 75a hardness on my 3 mounts now.

I get vibration around 1200-1800 rpm. Other than that, it's smooth as stock. I've revved my engine at the TB and that sucker doesn't move around at all. At least from what I can see, there's probably some inperceptible movement. Try welding your rear mount to the crossmember. Maybe that will remove some of the vibration.

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Originally Posted by SteveDX89

I get vibration around 1200-1800 rpm. Other than that, it's smooth as stock. I've revved my engine at the TB and that sucker doesn't move around at all. At least from what I can see, there's probably some inperceptible movement. Try welding your rear mount to the crossmember. Maybe that will remove some of the vibration.

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all my mounts are welded. I can watch the rear crossmember itself flex..the stupid bushings are so hard they put th flex and vibration right into the metal structure. Sort of like getting brake pads that last forever but chew up the disks..

hey, what did you do about your vss? I keep getting the damn code for that.
how about you too, legend master?

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Originally Posted by Accordtheory

all my mounts are welded. I can watch the rear crossmember itself flex..the stupid bushings are so hard they put th flex and vibration right into the metal structure. Sort of like getting brake pads that last forever but chew up the disks..
hey, what did you do about your vss? I keep getting the damn code for that.
how about you too, legend master?

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I used chrome to disable the VSS and ELD codes in the system. I am about to dissable the O2 sensor, because I keep getting a code 43.

so you have the moates 'ostrich' thing? I don't know what to do about management yet, but I want my turbo..damn it
stupid neptune rtp isn't out yet. I'm not buying hondata, and the aem is too much..

steve, did you have to do anything about your vss?
My shit doesn't turn the cel on every time, just most of the time.

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Originally Posted by Accordtheory

so you have the moates 'ostrich' thing? I don't know what to do about management yet, but I want my turbo..damn it
stupid neptune rtp isn't out yet. I'm not buying hondata, and the aem is too much..
steve, did you have to do anything about your vss?
My shit doesn't turn the cel on every time, just most of the time.

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Just tune it with uberdata and run it rich with low boost untill you can afford better managment. Either way your going to have to dish out a load of cash for something to properly tune a turbo car. All those companies charge way to much for what they offer.

well I was thinking of cromepro + the ostrich, but I don't know how the f you go about buying cromepro. I downloaded a couple 'plugins' for it that are supposed to be part of the 'pro' package, but I don't know, I'd rather just pay the $150 and know I have the most current shit, like the best expanded boost resolution. The boost resolution in cromepro pisses on hondata like r kelly pissed on...nevermind..

I'm done buying something for the time being. I've wasted so many thousands of dollars doing that. Now I just want ot have nothing until I can have good shit. I think my holset turbo will put down 500whp though, not bad for $275 shipped..

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Originally Posted by Accordtheory

well I was thinking of cromepro + the ostrich, but I don't know how the f you go about buying cromepro. I downloaded a couple 'plugins' for it that are supposed to be part of the 'pro' package, but I don't know, I'd rather just pay the $150 and know I have the most current shit, like the best expanded boost resolution. The boost resolution in cromepro pisses on hondata like r kelly pissed on...nevermind..
I'm done buying something for the time being. I've wasted so many thousands of dollars doing that. Now I just want ot have nothing until I can have good shit. I think my holset turbo will put down 500whp though, not bad for $275 shipped..

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LOL @ the R-kelly comment. $150 is not bad for chromepro, hondata is 5 bills + any options you want to add. Sounds like your ride is going to be sick, can't wait to see.

the latest beta version (1.1.11) of crome has some nice features! Esp. for PRO users. If you want to go PRO just click "register" on the pop up screen when starting crome.

My VSS works just fine. I have no codes for it at all. I know the stock gauge cluster has a wire going to the ECU and I'm pretty sure that's all I'm using. Using the cable driven VSS, btw, not the electronic. I put the 86-89 Teg axle in today. Seems a bit short. We'll see how long it lasts. I guess I should start buying them somewhere that has a lifetime warranty so when the shaft gets ripped out of the CV joint, I can get a new one for free. BTW, I f*cking hate putting axles in and out. If I didn't have to do that, I probably wouldn't mind ripping my engine out.

do you have obd1? This vss code is really starting to piss me off..not only does the light come on, but the idle kicks up to lke 1500 rpm.
I fucking hate california. I can't believe I'm still here. They require a smog to even get the Title to a car. I won't be here much longer though..

No, I'm OBD 0

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Originally Posted by Accordtheory

do you have obd1? This vss code is really starting to piss me off..not only does the light come on, but the idle kicks up to lke 1500 rpm.
I fucking hate california. I can't believe I'm still here. They require a smog to even get the Title to a car. I won't be here much longer though..

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guaynabo89 figured out how to convert our VSS signal to OBD-1.

well, there is supposedly a thread about the vss adaptation around here somewhere..

edit: Ok, I found it..6k ohm resistor between the vss wire and 12v. Should be easy enough

well, it was, but it doesn't work though. Another thing. My car has some kind of limiter, sometimes it just doesn't go after 80 or so mph. I try to downshift, it just cuts out until the speed drops. It doesn't do it all the time. vss related? Incredibly annoying.

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Originally Posted by Accordtheory

well, it was, but it doesn't work though. Another thing. My car has some kind of limiter, sometimes it just doesn't go after 80 or so mph. I try to downshift, it just cuts out until the speed drops. It doesn't do it all the time. vss related? Incredibly annoying.

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I never had that problem, I just got an cel light and that was it. Thats sounds like an ECU or distributor problem if you ask me :dunno: .

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Originally Posted by Accordtheory

shit, the pri kit is a bargain compared to this effort..

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what's the pri kit?

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Originally Posted by sinisterfuzzy

what's the pri kit?

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Dude you said you searched in another thread, but I am guessing you didnt. The PRI = Place Racing Incorporated (the only company that made swap kits for our cars). They have long been out of Business and the mount kits are hard to find. I know you want to swap a b-series, but you will need some serious welding skills to get the job done. Good luck to you if you can pull it off.

From what I've read about OBD 1 conversions, the VSS signal is not one that I've ever heard of having to convert. As far as I know, all we need is the conversion harness, dizzy, and 4 wire 02 sensor. You're positive it's the VSS code?

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Originally Posted by SteveDX89

From what I've read about OBD 1 conversions, the VSS signal is not one that I've ever heard of having to convert. As far as I know, all we need is the conversion harness, dizzy, and 4 wire 02 sensor. You're positive it's the VSS code?

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It is true I had the exact same error when I first converted my car.

I'm strongly considering getting the 'tuner package' or whatever from xenocron right now and saying fuck the vss..it includes a socketed/chipped ecu, datalogging cable, moates eprom emulator, and wideband..then I just need to get the newest version of cromepro and I'll be set..

That's basically what I'm using, only I bought the LM1 wideband and not the LC1. Bought it from xenocron too. Nice dude.

And yes, VSS does need to get converted in order to work. If you dont have a working vss there will be some features you wont be able to use.