Weird, im 98% sure i tqed my arp studs to 80ft/lbs on my turbo set up & i never had a hg problem...
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Weird, im 98% sure i tqed my arp studs to 80ft/lbs on my turbo set up & i never had a hg problem...
Quote:
Originally Posted by gfrg88
Not necessarily. If you squeeze it too much the head can distort and create uneven clamping force. I don't remember what I torqued mine too but I want to say it was more like 60ft-lbs using the ARP lube. 80ft-lbs might be pushing it.
C|
did u use arp lube or motor oil? But yeah I really think the bolt torque is causing my issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tdurr
Hmm, I thought I only went 20 over stock, with oil.
still Jerry, 60lb ft with oil is like 45lb ft with arp moly lube.... im at 80lb ft with arp lube. waaaaaaayy tighter.
I went 65 with arp lube
A basic light arp molly lube. The pack they give you is enough to do like 5 sets of studs.Quote:
Originally Posted by AccordEpicenter
Also make 200% sure All of the studs are level/bottemed out in the block.
Agree. Can't compress a liquid so when you tighten down the stud it may feel like you hit bottom. But you haven't. Air compressor is your friend.
Yea air compressor saftey shades and brake cleaner
Truth!Quote:
Originally Posted by Tdurr
I went 50ft lb with arp lube and a victor reinz gasket this time and it still blew in the first 10 miles. At this point I guessing the block is warped. I'm tired of wrenching on the car so Im putting it up for sale. Ive got way too much time and money into the car in general. At this point I'm probably going to buy a faster bike and keep racing that. Im just sick of it
it happens man. i went b series an all motor lol so i dont have to worry about blowing it up as much lol
I'm just sick of screwing around. I think the motor needs to come apart again and I don't want to bother. I can have the head off the motor in less than an hour... But I started a fs thread...
The car is easy 10 sec capable but I've been running almost that fast with the bike since the car has been down...
Definately understand that feeling. What would it take to prep a jy block for that crank assy. ?
youd be much better off just getting the block decked or the head milled, whichever. The pistons are fitted to this block as are the bearings
Did i just hear the towel hit the mat?
No bueno
I think so...Quote:
Originally Posted by 89T
Fwiw, jason i have admired what you have accomplished with your 3rd gen. I aswell as the rest of the fourm were excited to see that car run down track 1 more time. Maybe it was not ment to be. Eithier way my hat is off to you. Good luck with the sale.
update: Thanks guys!
At the urging of a few close friends of mine we tore the head off and started looking it over and the head had less than a thousandth warp (like my machinist said before) and the block was about a thousandth off as well (so both are in spec) so we still dont know why we are blowing gaskets... Ive heard we need to heat cycle the motor with a new gasket and retorque the bolts... Weve used 4 gaskets at 3 different torques so Im pretty sure we ruled out bolt torque as the direct cause.
One other thing: Dont ever use a straightedge from harbor freight, complete junk and was at least 4 thousandths off from flat. Ironically, the other side of it seemed flat. It took a minute to catch this.
U used 3 diff brand headgaskets right?
I need to go back and find what the specs were on your cam if you posted that before.
Wouldn't that be a hoot if you were lifting the head with backpressure!
I think it would sell better if its was running IMHO.Quote:
Originally Posted by AccordEpicenter
wp
this just LITERALLY made me sad. You were the first guy that ever inspired me to build an A series.. Hoping you keep it, and get it all figured out. Good luck, Jason!
on the 2nd heat cycle the motor started to use water yet again. Im completely stumped as to what the issue could be at this point, so at this point ive had enough. Id like to sell the car whole but i doubt there is much interest in this car...
