Well I swapped the third brake light for one from a 90 accord,the one in the spoiler that's led in that right.So with leds my light in the dash won't go out right.
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Well I swapped the third brake light for one from a 90 accord,the one in the spoiler that's led in that right.So with leds my light in the dash won't go out right.
right, hook a regular bulb in parallel with it hidden somewhere in the trunk or use one of those LED resistors for this and the light will go off, the LED stuff doesn't pull enough current and the sensor thinks the bulb is blownQuote:
Originally Posted by import racer
Can the trunk liner be removed from the back of the seat in a coupe and/or sedan without altering/damaging it?
Like so:
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/3182783226.html
Also, will these work for a coupe?
http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/pts/3162982461.html
Sup 3g I just joined my first honda i owned was an 88 accord lx auto carb'd and was instantly in love with the look and honda period. Then i learned how to drive standard and kept getting standard hondas i never liked carb'd engines so i patiently waited and finally 2 days ago found the accord i been wanting. An 86-89 accord fuel injected standard hatch!!! We all know its tough to find one especially in chicago with little to no rust it came from arizona thank god with 152000 miles. I love it!!! But I have one question where the heck can i find a cold air intake for my baby? Oh and i brought it with a seemingly blown head gasket and oil pan gasket so thats all getting replaced this week. Oh and second question my car is sputtering while idleing like it wants to turn off and idle is just before 1k rpm. What can it be?
This definetly belongs in newbie introductions...Quote:
Originally Posted by 3ghatchLxi
as for cold air intake you wont find one made for our car. the only thing available is a short ram intake from weapon r. Or if you are handy you can modify just about any CAI to fit.
as for the sputtering in my experience that happens when you have a vacuum leak
yes with no problem slides right out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
and your lowering springs should fit just fine
hey i was wondering how to start a thread. i have found this website very useful with all of my problems. but i cannot find a thread about just dash lights being out. tailights, turn signals, info lights work just fine( CEL, brake, battery all come on when you turn key to on posit.) but at night you cant see the cluster? ive tried everything. No blown fuses either. and btw it is a 88 lxi hatch. thank you in advance
have you made sure the dimmer control isn't all the way down? what about the dimmer control module?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebel4x4
x2 on dimmer control.
x3
x4
I just need to link to the thread about converting from carb. to fuel injection please i cannot find it anywhere...
So has anyone considered putting a muffler off a motorcycle on their car.
pretty much the same as a glasspack,the one i made is very similar to a bike mufflerQuote:
Originally Posted by import racer
Any one know if you can put an s2k cluster on an 87 lx sedan? Just wondering, I bet it would look clean.
you would have to complexity custom fabricate everything I don't even think it would fir the dashQuote:
Originally Posted by Metal_GearRex94
it can be done, if you're not very electronically inclined, it would probably be best if you paid someone to install it. also, you'd have to modify your current cluster housing to suit the s2k gauges to make it look nice, otherwise it won't look clean at all
Isn't the S2000 cluster all digital with no speedometer cable?
you would need the sending unit from the s20000 but it's probably not even being close to being right for this carQuote:
Originally Posted by Vanilla Sky
I just found an zc rebuilt block for 100 bucks.. what would a zc swap into my carbed 88 lx be like?
This probably fits perfectly in this topic, but it may just be my lack of knowledge or inspection, but..
I've looked at new exhaust pipes for my Accord, but the catalytic converter is..right in the middle. Do I need two halves or something, since the part most in need of replacement is that bit of flex adapter-like hose between the manifold down and the cat. <.>
Also, do I need to drop subframe to change oil pans?
so had no idea where to post nd figured id get the most replies here, got a manual a20a3 engine nd my starter went out but when i went in to autozone, orielly nd napa the starters done match but the starter does match an auto tranny starter... so are these starters interchangeable?
feedback much appreciated!!
Starters for auto and manual are different,not interchangeable .
you just remove the center cross member you don't even have to jack up the engine, drop the exhaust pipe and then you can take off the pan. the exhaust is in two pieces the one from the manifold to the converter and the one from past the converter backQuote:
Originally Posted by EbidaDragon
Thank you, thank you! Since it's just that crossmember, I'm really itching to replace that oil pan gasket this weekend, but I'm getting a little back and forth on whether or not my oil filter base gasket is bad or good. I'll be checking this weekend when I get 'ir on ramps or jackstands.Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
Since I'm new, there's probably going to be a lot of stupid questions from me, so, here's another
I ended up simply removing my hot air pipe(from exhaust mani[cover?] to air intake) because it was getting very frayed and the fabric finally ripped big time when it got some P/S fluid from my pressure hose leak on it :/
My question is, then..Do I really -need- a new hot air pipe(They seem to be fully discontinued; parts yard go?), or should I just find a way to cover the exhaust mani end and keep it off? I would assume an oversaturation of hot air into my engine isn't the best for overall performance, and am guessing the hot air pipe is more of a help during winter or engine warmup.
Seems like I'm getting an awful lot of extra noise(bass-y exhaust rumble) with it off, so I'm trying to plan something for the area.
You should be able to replace that hose with a universal one from an auto parts store. It is useful, so I'd say keep it.
Has anyone done an HID conversion?
I used to have and hid kit on my car. 6k color, it was really nice and clear light. There usually around $100 buck for the bi-xenon hid kit. I got mine from blindinghids.com but looking back now I paid way to much for emQuote:
Originally Posted by Metal_GearRex94
Just take the shield and hose off and throw away.You only need that stuff if you have cold winters.
it actually keeps the air temp about 90, the mixture and setting for the stupid keihin were all set taking that into account, most of the time the air flapper control diaphragm leaks anyway and the system doesn't workQuote:
Originally Posted by import racer
Who do I talk to about my build thread in the general section being moved to project central, now that I'm a foundation member
Okay, my questions have usually been pretty low-IQ, but I think this one takes the cake..
As I keep looking, and looking, and looking at our gauge clusters(both FI and carb'd)..I have one really dumb question..
Is my 88 CA5 (LX/4D)not supposed to have a CEL in the cluster? I just went out and re-checked my indicator lights(again)..and this still baffles me :x
No check engine lights for carbureted models!
the carb car has both a computer that controls major parts of the carb and a mechanical system that does the same, neither system interacts and there is no check engine light to tell you when something fails, genius right?Quote:
Originally Posted by EbidaDragon
Urge..to spend weeks on EFI..rising :|Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
I recently bought a set of 17in rims for my 1989 honda accord lxi. They are in pretty terrible condition (which is why i got them for cheap). I was wondering if anyone knew some good ways to clean them up the best i can. I realize that they definitely are not going to look amazing when i'm done but i want to make em look as good as i can myself. They have black spokes and a chrome lip. The chrome is flaking, has some oxidation all over and every rim has pretty bad curb rash. I appreciate any suggestions or links on how to clean them up. Thanks.
I have pics of them but apparently i cant attach them...
Sand them, hit them with some decent paint. It doesn't have to be wheel paint, but choose something known to be a durable, hard paint. It took me 2 attempts to get my wheels where they are, and they aren't great by any measure.
Sand down the curb rash, wire brush them, wet sand and paint. Use a filler like Bondo on any deep pits. You can also consider media blasting them.
yea i was thinking some of the same things you all suggested just didnt know if sanding chrome was a good idea and didnt want to scar it all up.
If chunks of it are missing then you'll have to paint over it.
gotcha...why cant i post pictures? is that a privilege the new guy doesn't have or something?
Gotta have 5 posts before you can post pics. It weeds out a lot of spam.
Actually, we dropped that requirement. To post pics, you need to upload them to an image host (like imgur.com) then get the "bbcode" and paste it in here.
Mine were pretty beat up before I did mine,and I used a dremel tool to get rid of the curb damage.Then sand with different grits of sand paper til smooth,then used etching primer .top coated with several coats of paint and clear.Make sure each coat is dry before moving to the next step.
How does one remove the coolant overflow reservoir? The sedan's is cracked and when the car warms leaks like the Titanic.
its just clipped in place, just give it a bit of a yank in the upwards direction and it should come off.
Most paints have a period in which you can lay another coat before having to wait for a full cure. For instance, the wheel paint I used required all coats to be laid within an hour of the first coat or wait until full cure. If you're spray bombing, the can should say. Most paint companies have a tech line if you have questions regarding questions like that if you're not sure. In my case, I had no option to spray my wheels in the right conditions, so I ended up with a longer cure time due to the high humidity.Quote:
Originally Posted by import racer
pics of my rims that i need to clean up. after i get them as clean as they're gunna get i'll probably just plasti-dip em rather than paint em. Only prob with that is that i wanted to keep the shiny chrome lip but blacking them out is fine i guess.
http://imgur.com/a/kukik#yGsmu
Don't they have chrome paint now somewhere?
Yes they do. I think it was spray or dip in something and it will turn chrome. I think there is a thread about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
i've already sanded most of the chrome off of the wheels and have it down to the aluminum. I'm liking how it looks so probably just going to polish up the aluminum and slap some clear coat over it after i touch up the black spokes.
ok, this for sure feels like a stupid question but here it goes anyway. My 89 accord lxi has a rear wiper but i dont see where the controls for it are. I have hit every button and moved every lever in the car trying to get it to move but nothing works. If it has a rear wiper, there MUST be a switch or a twist of a knob that operates it right? I'm thinking I've probably hit what operates it but the fuse for it is out or something along those lines but if someone could tell me for sure what controls it I would much appreciate it. (I would assume its on the same lever that operates the windshield wipers.) I would look at the manual but its an 89...the manual has long been lost. Anyway, Thanks for the help
Yes, it should be on the same column as the other wiper. It should be a separate twisting part just closer to the steering wheel than the end twisting part.
Unless at some point yours was broken and someone replaced it with a coupe/sedan combination switch.
I am having a really hard time trying to upload pictures to posts. somebody please help
hello everyone i am new here i was wondering if you guys could help me with a issue i am having right now, i have an 89 lxi and i was needing to findout what wires are the lock and unlock for the power locks and what wire is the negative wire for the parking lights. thanks
i checked for a separate part to twist but there's only 1 at the end thts twists to operate the wipersQuote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
Mine is on the right of str wheel on same as wipers. The word "off" should be on it twice if its the right switch.Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbobson33
Open second browser window to your image host, copy the url to image, come back to post template and click the image button which gives u a pop up text block.. Paste url and ok it.Oh allow pop up tmporary.Quote:
Originally Posted by 88DX
Ok so this isn't for my 3g, but for a camper van we just bought. Is it ok to mix fuel stabilizer and gas line antifreeze? We are storing it for the winter.
you don't need gas line antifreeze anymore, I cant believe they still make it, your gas is now ten percent alcohol crap, the gas line antifreeze is redundant as it's the same thing, personally I would put some stabilizer in run it until it's through the fuel system and drain the tank, corn gas doesn't store well and separates as well as attracts waterQuote:
Originally Posted by elarson88
My thoughts are you're better off filling the tank up before storage, and also you can find ethanol free gas at lake areas or where boats are popular.
I can get non ethanol gas at some stations here still. I will make sure to put that in. I really don't want to have to drain the tank. Would the antifreeze be necessary then if it is ethanol free gas?
can I use pics from facebook?Quote:
Originally Posted by 2oodoor
^ Not that I know of. You have to got to a hosting site (flikr, photobucket, imageshack,...) to host your pics and after just copy and paste the BBcode on your post. You also have to have at least 5 post before you can post any links
On that topic, I discovered this website only last night.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2oodoor
http://pure-gas.org/
what should i do to my accord next?
I've already done speakers, stereo, and workin on wheels right now.
what mechanical condition is it in? when was the last time you did a tune up,( spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor) motor oil, transmission oil, coolant...Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbobson33
Here's another dumb one from me(at least I think so)
I feel like there's mixed valve covers between Honda engines, and I was wondering if there's a guide on an easy engine identification guide by valve cover, if that even exists. I feel like I've seen like three different kinds of valve covers between b20 and b16 engines. and some of them look almost the exact same, but are 16/18 instead of what I thought was only a B20 style. I finally saw a B20a5, and the valve cover had the emblem on the bottom left rather than the middle, but I swear I've seen the valve cover here (noticeably a 3G B20A) http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/3341453884.html, on b16/18 listed engines, and there's a very different looking B20 cover on some of the Integras I've been looking at.
i did the majority of tht when i bought it at 130k. its only at 145k now so im probably ok for now. I was looking for opinions on other upgrades for looks or power. I would appreciate any suggestionsQuote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
window tinting and reconditioning the moudlings around the car
Chop the top, put in hydraulics and paint flames on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbobson33
Seriously though. It's your car and should be what you want it to be. Decide on your overall vision and we can get you headed in that direction.
Basically there are 3 different B20 (1g B20A, 2g B20A and B20B/Z). The 1g B20A were in the 2g preludes and 3g accords, "H" symbol in the center. The 2g B20A is in the 3g preludes, "H" symbol in the corner. The B20B/Z are completely different and have no "H" symbol on them. The B20 on craiglist is the 1g B20A that is made for our accords, not the prelude one.Quote:
Originally Posted by EbidaDragon
Does the pedal have to be fully depressed when using the clutch? I have literally driven that way since I got my first car but recently I realized that the clutch only has to go in about 1.5-2" to [dis]engage gears...
Not really, the only time I press it all the way is to start the car. I'm usually just pressing it 2"-3"Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
I agree. I would do window tinting next might run you between $200-300. Maybe drop it a couple inches? With the right amount of money you can do whatever you want to it. I prefer to spend my money on cosmetic things for investment reasons. A window tint can make the car look like it's worth more, it just looks better.
Sent from my iPhone JDM never died app.
Good to know someone could answer so quickly. Now I'm just glad to remember that 1988 and older Accords don't have the clutch bypass so I don't have to push it in when I start the car. hahahaQuote:
Originally Posted by obdriver6
HID...Yes, I've searched. I found this and used it to help me make a choice: https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...-H4-Conversion
Here's the question: Is this going to do the trick?
Wiring harness adapter: http://store.ijdmtoy.com/H4-9003-Har...t-p/aa1064.htm
Housing: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hl...7/model/accord
Bulbs? Suggestions?
That won't work unless you have a ballast and bulb. There are HID kits bi xenon that come with everything. 2 Light bulbs(H4) with harness and 2 ballast. Its plug and play.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn87AccordDx
This is what your looking for: http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Slim-Digita...ersion_kit.htm
What bi-xenon kit? You're not gonna find any bi-xenon kit for a H4 base unless its one of those crappy stuff you said to avoid: http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j0...High-Beam-.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6
Was using it as an example but i already put the link for him.
Another question regarding HID's: I know you can get bulbs that are the following low-/high-beam type:
standard low / standard high
HID low / standard high
HID low / HID high
...but can you get bulbs that are standard halogen low-beams, but HID high-beams? I want bright high-beams for when no one is around but I don't want to blind people around town and such with low-beams.
I'm tired and hungover and can't type so I hope that makes sense.
Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
.
Not a question but an FYI.
DON'T just buy 2 quarts of Honda MTF when draining your transaxle. Buy 3.
Drained to replace passenger CV axle today and 2 wasn't enough to come out the fill hole. Good thing we have another car!
Also: 32mm filler plugs and washers DON'T EXIST anymore :(
WTF?!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote:
Originally Posted by obdriver6
hmmm...Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealth
Just smear the old washer with RTV and reuse it. Wipe the sealing surfaces on the trans clean of any residual oil before reassembling. It works great.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn87AccordDx
I'll check for leaking later. Impossible to get my torque wrench in there so I got it German tight. I put anti-seize on the threads too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
general civic question.... Y8 mini-me swap with a d15z1 or d16y8 swap? with a p2p ecu from same car. plug and play right?
92 civic vx
sorry, not accord related.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
I disagree. Clutch adjustment may vary, of course, from one vehicle to another, but usually the full range of clutch pedal travel may be viewed as having 3 parts or phases. First, there's some free play between a fully released pedal and the point at which actual dis-engagement of the clutch begins; this phase can easily be recognized when pressing the clutch pedal because the resistance at that end of this phase becomes greater and requires more pressure to continue depressing the pedal. The second part of the full range is that short travel span where the clutch is actually engaged or dis-engaged. And, the third part of the full travel range is the remaining distance from the second phase to the floor. This latter part may be 1 1/2 inch or more, again, depending on clutch adjustment in any given vehicle. There's simply no need to press the pedal all the way to the floor. Pressing it to the point where the clutch is fully dis-engaged is enough. And, surely, any driver who is experienced in driving a manual transmission and has attained a normal skill level can sense, by feel when pressing the pedal, the point at which the clutch is depressed enough to allow smooth shifting of gears.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealth
.
I would agree with your advise for inexperienced users of manual transmissions (mt). Eventually, they should get a feel for this and no longer need to press the pedal all the way to the floor every time they shift gears. An experienced and knowledgeable mt user is actually going to experience smoother shifting by not pressing the pedal all the way to the floor. Doing that wastes some pedal travel and actually makes shifting more cumbersome and awkward.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealth
.
i have my clutch adjusted to where i dont have to fully press the clutch. this is true on cable transmissions. on my 04 accord its hydro so i feel like i have to press it almost all the way or else the gears will grind if i shift it.
I seriously don't feel the difference between pressing the clutch enough to shift smoothly (in my case 2"-3") to pressing it all the way down. I've always been thought that as long as your shift is smooth and without any grinds, you'll be fine.
You can even shift without the clutch if your syncro's and your timing are good. I can do it in my car except going to 3rd.
^ Robert?......When did you change your username?
A few days ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by obdriver6
I have an 88 Accord thats in great body shape but the engine is crap and the tranny is slipping. What are my options for a better hp engine, a MT swap, and not breaking my bank?
