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This will be my Megajolt install and update thread.
Got parts ordered and on the way.
Picked up an EDIS-4 module (Off a Ford Scorpio)
Crank sensor and pigtail from rockauto (new)
Trigger wheel
6-port vacuum log mainfold (Going to tap each runner for MAP sensor configuration)
Megajolt/E MK2 control unit
Various gauge wiring
Should be fun once everything gets here and I can start playing.
If anyone happens to have a timing map, that would be super useful =P
This is very cool! I can't wait to see how you mount that trigger wheel.
I found a crank pulley at a local junkyard so going to pick that up. My thought is to have the a/c belt part machined off and that would give me plenty of room to mount it. Probably welded on.
Will the mega jolt not accept reluctor inputs ?
That way you could just use the factory distributor for crank position
Nah, uses a 36-1 trigger wheel with a VR crank sensor to determine crank position. Also uses either MAP or TPS sensor (I'm going with the MAP sensor) to determine engine load.
The idea is to remove the distributor altogether and have a completely electronic and programmable ignition.
Do need to figure out a blanking plug..
For all the shagging around , wouldnt going standalone be an ideaQuote:
Originally Posted by InAccordance
For sure but this route is cheaper and I'm carbed.
Pretty much is a standalone but only for the ignition. I'm running twin DCOEs so my fuel is covered.
LOL. Probably the easiest part of the project. What, some flat stock, a centering punch and a drill, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by InAccordance
The trigger wheel is the bugaboo for me. I'm unwilling to give up AC.
I did have the thought of welding it to the end of the pulley up against the power steering belt but downside is bracket to hold the sensor would have to be ridiculous to not vibrate all crazy
I'll know more once I go pick up the pulley from the yard and play around with fitment options.
You're right about the bracket, it needs to be beefy. This is what I ended up with. I was really surprised how much vibration there was with thinner metals, but this was solid.
Attachment 9454
Here's my first trigger wheel. I found a crank pulley from a 77 Accord, that had no AC or PS on it, which also happened to be the exact same diameter as the Escort trigger wheel.
Attachment 9453
It worked pretty well for a while, but the bolts kept wanting to back out, and I was worried about heat distorting the nylon spacers. I may have been able to come up with other ways to make this work, but I wanted the MJ hooked up and got tired of messing with it...
I took the stock pulley to a machine shop, and he machined off the power steering pulley, and built a spacer to mount the trigger wheel on. This setup has been 100% solid, and is still on the car now.
Attachment 9455
The stock map in the MJ will run your car just fine. It's fairly conservative, and definitely safe for the street, so you will really want to play with it for peak power. But once everything is wired up, you can pretty much start up your car and drive it immediately. Also, if you have the whole EDIS system wired up, your car will run without the Megajolt just fine. The EDIS system will go into failsafe mode without the MJ, and give you a fixed 10 degrees of advance. It's good for troubleshooting and testing.
My favorite part about getting this setup running, was when I was setting the initial idle timing. Sitting in the garage and hearing the cars engine sound change and smooth out as I pressed buttons on the keyboard was so cool. Your engine will run so much smoother and start so much easier with this setup.
cool cool, thanks for the feedback.
I was worried about having to initially tune it or put a base map in and/or having to set firing order and things like that. Good to know it'll run out of the box though.
I want to keep the power steering on mine so machining that off isn't an option so was leaning towards taking the a/c pulley off and going there.
Assuming you used the a/c bracket mounting points to bolt your new one on?
MJ box came in today but I wasn't home to sign for it. DOH!
I did see some YouTube guys rig up a crank trigger mechanism on the cam pulley. That was pretty awesome.
I wonder how that would work. Doesn't the cam rotate at half the speed of the crank?
It was a single magnet as I recall, not a trigger wheel. It was a quick and dirty setup, but it worked.
This actually went on my 1st gen. There are a couple of bosses on the back of the block right above the oil pan... there were never any accessories mounted there, but I think it's where the 1g Prelude mounts bolt onto the engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by InAccordance
Firing order will be the same. It's wasted spark, so 2 cylinders fire at once. Supposedly there's a way to set the EDIS module into firing twice at low RPM (aka MSD). Haven't played with that part yet.
I think you should try to find Cygnus's post on MegaJolt, I can't remember if it was here or on PreludePower, but he did a nice writeup with pics, showing how he did his trigger wheel, and bracket for the sensor. In fact, I think he was selling an adjustable A20 bracket, but not sure if he has any hanging out still...
I have his post saved =P
I'm going tomorrow to a machine shop that a guy who runs a local car club referred me to (ye olde hillbilly discount) and see what he can do with the pulley and trigger wheel I have. By the looks of it, I can cut off the a/c belt lip and shave down the power steering part about 1/16th of an inch and the wheel I have will slide right on. Drill a few holes and bolt it on.
I'm making it difficult because I want to keep the PS. If I wasn't, this thing would be super simple.
On the plus side, all my parts are in so just need to get the pulley squared away.
Pulley at shop, should have it back in a few days. Explained to 'em how I wanted it done and they said no problem.
:nervous::nervous::nervous:
So from what I can tell, the missing tooth should be mounted exactly at TDC correct?
As the pulley itself doesn't have timing marks, reading other threads and searching other sites, the keyway is TDC and should face 12o'clock when engine is at TDC. So the wheel should be mounted with the missing tooth in line with the keyway or am I wrong?
I got the pulley back from the machine shop cut down the way I wanted but I have to do final mounting position.
Search around some pictures because I don't think the crank keyway will be at 12 o clock at TDC.Quote:
Originally Posted by InAccordance
Last post in this thread says it is. I honestly dont know which I get conflicting info on =P
https://www.3geez.com/forum/3geez-ac...nk-pulley.html
https://i.imgur.com/fAbmQ26h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ciMA7iQh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZouURC0h.jpg
Pulley cut down with wheel sitting on it. Not set in place yet but that is where it will go.
Oooooo, sexy!
Attachment 9515
oooff, it's sideways but Imgur is being annoying. FINALLY got that fraking crank pulley off.
Had to use the 'ol chain wrapped around the engine mount technique. Put so much torque on it the chain broke a chunk off the old pulley lol.
Oh, and I did confirm that the crank keyway does in fact face 12 0'clock in line with TDC.
You need to mount the trigger wheel so that the missing tooth is lined up with the sensor when the engine is at top dead center. You do not line it up with TDC on the pulley unless your sensor is directly above the pulley.
This guide here is the one to read. It's your bible, trust no other sources:
https://wiki.autosportlabs.com/MJLJ_...allation_guide
Basically, set your engine to TDC #1, stick the trigger wheel on it and turn it until the missing tooth is lined up with your sensor.
OK. The diagram they have just makes my brain hurt lol.
They say to set it back 9 teeth, that's the part that throws me off.
Modified pulley is on without the trigger wheel. Just running it for a few days to see if it throws off engine balance or eats the PS belt. So far so good.
Off work Monday so I'll get some time to get the wheel lined up and start work on a bracket to mount the sensor.
Oh damnit, I see what you're saying on the manual page. I'm trying to figure out why the trigger wheel is moving back and forth with the sensor lol.
So yeah, I guess it's what I said, plus turn the wheel 9 teeth lol. I forgot about that part.
Progress was made (finally)!
https://i.imgur.com/IHEyJgFl.jpg
Got the barb fittings put into the runners. Only did 3 or them since 4th was already tapped for brake booster, I'll just run a T off that for that runner. The idea is to run those lines into a manifold to smooth out a signal for the MAP sensor in the MJ unit.
https://i.imgur.com/g29PlKIl.jpg
Was actually impressed the ports are clean. Even the intake was clean. For sure thought it would be dirty considering how rich it runs. That port on the right is #4 which was plug fouling but even then it's clean on the intake side which I think tells me it's not the carb overloading.
https://i.imgur.com/3qV8g2Uh.jpg
All put back together. Dont mind the red tubing, got to rice it up a bit ya know :rofl:
Runs 1000 times better, idle is a bit smoother as well. So my issues are for sure timing related. Ran the distributor advance into the vacuum manifold for the time being until I can get everything else sorted out. Still have to daily the car =P
Also put the 36mm venturi back in the carbs. Needs some find tuning but seems to have helped it out as well, less popping. Still does some but not nearly as much. Will also pull well past 5.5k rpm. Was dropping off at 5.5k pretty hard before but she'll go further now. Actually have to be careful since I dont have a rev limiter at the moment.
On hold until I figure out the transmission issue :(
Damn, what’s going on with it?
Not sure until I pull it. Something finally broke though when I got to work. Wont disengage at all even with engine off.
Keep us posted and good luck.
Clutch fixed (so far), broken engine mount replaced, now maybe I can get back to work on this...
Coil, module, and MJ unit are all wired up. Got a day off Monday with no plans and no rain chance. I'm getting a bracket built that day if it kills me.
1st draft bracket:
https://i.imgur.com/EjvEa65l.jpg
Yes, my welds are terrible, never said I was that great of a welder. In my defense I had the amp setting wrong and didn't realize it until halfway through building it. I'll grind the bad ones off and redo them for better penetration.
Can't see it to well but I do have the holes marked off for drilling. Sensor is just sitting there as a reference of how it will go.
Bracket was almost just right. Was 2mm too short for the distance needed that the sensor sits against the trigger wheel.
Mounting bolts were spot on though and the sensor lines up perfectly in line with the wheel, just need to extend where the sensor mounts on the bracket to get it closer to the wheel.
Used 3/16 steel so it seems like it'll be pretty rigid. I've taken a hammer to it and beat the crap out of it to make sure the welds are solid and nothing broke or bent.
Bracket fits perfectly just under the PS belt.
Now to line up the wheel, pull pulley off and weld wheel to it.
frakin rain, never going to get this done..
Where are you at?
East Tennessee
Actually got a few hours of clear skies today.
Got pulley pulled and ring welded to it. Just need to clean it up now.
https://i.imgur.com/3mqqXxWl.jpg
Mostly done, just needs a little cleanup and good to go.
Belt fits perfectly.
Welds are meh but it's not a load bearing structure so it'll do just fine.
Also fixed bracket and got it lined up good.
Cool!
Got everything wired up.
EDIS alone would fire but not run steadily. It's trying to run but just sputters.
First I had the firing order wrong, fixed that. Had the VR sensor wires backwards, fixed that. Did get some fire after those fixes but after a few seconds it sputters out and spits out the carbs then dies.
Double and triple checked all my wiring and everything is where it should be. Sensor is the thickness of my drivers license from the wheel. If I get any closer with it, it'll start hitting it.
Any ideas?
spitting from carb makes me think timing issues - there shouldn't be pressure coming up from the cylinder into intake manifold, if it is it's probably combusting too late, close to the intake stroke, letting flame/pressure into manifold. maybe the timing on cam is out 180 degrees? you might be spot on timing with the crank, but the cam turns 2x as slow as the crank so it could be 180 degrees out, resulting in firing between intake/exhaust stroke at tdc instead of during between compression and power stroke at tdc
I did that once and had fire shooting out the carb - easy way to check is just switch the wires around - instead of 1342 do 4231
No dice, swapped plug wires all over the place, nada
I did notice something though...
Does disconnecting the stock ignition coil and its associated wires affect the fuel pump in any way?
I ran out of time and hooked the stock components back up and when I went to start it... didn't want to run for a bit. Had to pump the gas for a good 30 seconds (not all at once obviously but in total). Basically it was acting like it was out of gas.
I wonder if those sputters from earlier were what gas was in the carb bowls and it had ran them out. When I was trying to get it to fire on the EDIS, towards the end it wasn't firing at all like it was out of gas.
The stock fuel pump relay,well for EFI, looks at the neg side of the coil to confirm the cars running that might be what you need.Quote:
Originally Posted by InAccordance
That's it then. I disconnected the coil completely.
So how do I bypass that lol?
The two wires from the stock coil the blue and black with yellow stripe wire what are those hooked up to
All that is still as is. Didn't cut anything or remove any stock components yet in case the edis didn't work. All I did was unplug the two connectors from the coil when I was testing the edis. Well that and plug wires of course.
Right now it's back to stock cause I had to drive it to work today.
Quote:
Originally Posted by InAccordance
Im guessing the relay needs a tach signal maybe from your new setup or you'll have to redo the relay somehow.
Please don't bypass it unless just for testing. You want the fuel pump off if your motor isn't running.
Nah, for sure.. wouldn't out right bypass it as a permanent thing, just testing things for now.
What powers the Edis
I see you have your shielded wire properly grounded to pin 7
https://images.app.goo.gl/VffhDWmFU8mYgKar6
First ran it off the battery to make sure it worked, then switched it to the wiper fuse. That one has good power and is switched to the "on" position
I assume as long as you got 12 volt that should be good. I use the original coil Black and Yellow wire for my powerQuote:
Originally Posted by InAccordance
Assuming blue wire is ground?
I just grounded the edis and mj in the battery. Seemed logical lol
Would using the power wire from the stock coil basically trick the pump relay?
Possibly it may need to see the power coming from the coil wire. And that blue wire is your RPM signal on fuel injected model
I'm wondering if you got that shielded jacket grounded properly on pin 7. I kind of went through the same deal setting up mine. Those wires are real sensitive and can pick up signal real easy and cause a misfire
I dont think I do have it setup right. I have the vr sensor wire shielded and is grounded to the body on the sensor end and ran into pin 7 on that end but did not run that into the main ground. I'll have to fix that.
Good looking out.
Pretty sure the carb and fi use the same coil setup. The wire colors and everything are the same in any case.
So blue wire is tach signal.
Yeah try that out.
Yes I know on a blaster coil the blue wire goes to the negative side of the coilQuote:
Originally Posted by InAccordance
Ok so.. if I ran a wire from the tach out pin on the mj unit to that blue wire, that should in theory send a signal through said wire into relay?
Possibly after reading through knife mine's set up apparently that tach signal has something to do with the fuel pump relayQuote:
Originally Posted by InAccordance
ThisQuote:
Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord
Well yea, there it is. So I need to get a tach signal into the relay.
Knife doesn't say what he did to fix that issue though, I wonder what he did.
I know I wish he would have said what he did at the endQuote:
Originally Posted by InAccordance
I'll try the tach out on the mj unit the next time I get to mess with it.
Thanks to all you guys for the help. 👍
i hooked up the wire that i had goin to the coil, i think it was blue, to the 'tach out' from the MJ, and now the tach and the fuel pump work.
Attachment 9624
Many tachometers can accept the signal emitted from the Tach Out on the MJLJ module. This Tach Out signal provides a 12V pulse for every ignition event. You may use this to provide the signal to compatible tachometers, or to provide a signal to a separate Engine Control Unit, data logger, or other device which requires this signal.
From the instal guide. May just work.
Lol posted at the same time
Lol. Hopefully they'll get you up and running
Sad part is I wint have a day off until next Monday.
That sucks well to be continued
Ok so... using the old coil wires worked BUT, its firing but I'm pretty sure it's out of time cause it is spitting hard and will die unless I hold the throttle.
Got fuel and spark now though, so progress.
coil on plug are a little hard to trouble shoot for like you said hard to tell whats firing when with out a scope on each leg.
I'm hoping maybe just need to readjust the vr sensor. Followed the install directions to the T, but I'll have to recheck sensor alignment. Wheel is set 9 teeth counterclockwise from missing tooth being at sensor. At tdc, missing tooth is pointed down.
If none of the above work ground that shielded wire
I did, it actually did help some.
If you find the data sheet on the sensor see what "reach" it has. there usually rated for 1,3,6 mm reach depending by design.Quote:
Originally Posted by InAccordance
Well I think I figured it out and it boils down to me overthinking things...
I was trying to use the old firing order for the distributor... 1342, with the new coilpack. But, it hit me today... I shouldn't be doing that. The new coil will just literally go 1234 in relation to where those are on the coil itself.
I hooked the distributor back up cause I have to get to work and when I went to start it, was spitting and sputtering just like it did the other day with the edis hooked up. I had crossed two plug wires. That's when above hit me.
Got it to run but it's kind of rough. Spits when it first starts. Wont idle on it's own and when it dies it does a hellacious backfire.
After digging, have figured out that my timing is a degree out.
Pretty much explains everything.
Mechanical or spark timing? Just curious... Is the spark timing set by a laptop with that thing?
mechanical timing is off a hair. Thought I had it set when the engine was out but tightening the tensioner must've shifted it slightly. Or, belt stretched when I was taking crank pulley off that first time and it was a pain in the ass. Explains why I had to turn distributor a bit to smooth out idle. Guess I should've realized it then but was too worried about getting it running cause I needed it for work at the time.
Yea, you can alter the timing with a laptop.
Cam is set to perfect tdc in the following pictures.
This is the timing mark on my flywheel.
https://i.imgur.com/smqD0Qtl.jpg
This is what the pointer is at. You can just see the two marks which is why I posted 1st pic so you know what they look like.
https://i.imgur.com/SRFfjdxl.jpg
It looks like it is pointing in the middle of the two lines so it is in fact off just slightly.
Now my question is... and I know on a stock flywheel you would us the "T" as your set line. This however, is not a stock flywheel so is the "T" on this one implying that the line right next to it is "time"? If it were the engine running time, it wouldn't be that close to the set mark.
Quote:
Originally Posted by InAccordance
You might have to verify that TDC the piston is all the way to the top at dwell with something in the spark plug hole and go from there.
The flywheel is not stock? i dont recognize those marks.
I did make sure it's for sure at tdc, pulled plug, shone light in, stuck a small rod in there to feel piston moving, etc etc
flywheel is an Unorthadox racing lightweight.
I cant find any documentation for it even on google. Found stuff for underdrive pulleys by them but nothing for the flywheel.
if the piston is at tdc and those lines dont match up then they aren't in the right place, you cant even use them for your spark timing. pop the valve cover off and look at the cam pulley
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShiRen
Well technically the line might not be. If you check TDC like mentioned above then you remark the flywheel.
I always check every motor I mess with. Most domestics the stock style balancer is rubber and slips over time and the mark will be off from TDC.
Moral of the story CHECK EVERYTHING.
So, after finally finding some info on the flywheel, it looks like I'm supposed to use the line next to the T as my base timing when replacing the timing belt. When I had the engine out and changed the belt, I used the actual "T" as the mark since that's what we're supposed to do, but didn't take into consideration that the flywheel isn't stock. In the end, I set myself a tooth off from the get go. Explains why it backfires like hell on off throttle conditions and is cranky sometimes when starting. I just figured it was an after effect of the carbs. Live and learn I suppose.
Next day off I'll reset the timing and since I have a fresh belt on hand, go ahead an swap a new belt on. After that, I go on vacation to my parents in Texas. Should be a fun drive. I did drive it to Knoxville as a long distance test which is about 1 1/2 hours from me and she did great there and back so hopefully TX will be fine. Averaged about 22 mpg which is better than I expected, lol.
I'll update this thread after vacation or if I get my dad to help me with it whilst I'm there.
Alright, we're back...
Car made it like a champ to Texas and back. 1900 miles both ways. Only issue I had was one of my exhaust plugs started to back out and was making a hell of a racket. Actually got great gas mileage.. averaged out to around 28mpg. With how this car is modified, I was quite impressed. But, interstate driving isn't too hard on mpg so there's that.
Going to swap on a new timing belt tomorrow and reset the timing to where it should be since I'm a degree off. Water pump needs to be swapped out as well so going to go ahead and do that. It's had a bent shaft for a while now but somehow never leaked.
After that, we'll go from there and see if I can get this thing running properly.
New belt on, she is timed perfectly. Hit it with a light and everything.
Runs much better and is smoother on idle. Still backfires like a slut when letting off throttle, but that's dcoe life I suppose.
Do you have a wideband sensor on there?
I wish, but with the header the way it is, I'd have to get a bung welded in at the collector to get a good reading.
Damn thats a hell of a trip!Quote:
Originally Posted by InAccordance
