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I saw some coilovers on ebay for cheap and I thought those are probably crap but I have been wrong in the past.
Here's a link. If anyone has them or knows anything more about them please let me know.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2425434372
Thanks guys.
-Mike
I'm going to be buying a new set of four Tokico's. And DXHATCHBACK told me EIBACH would be one of the best springs b/c they're softer. I saw on nopi the pro kit is only an inch drop and the sportline EIBACH's are 1.4" drop. He also said, "Neuspeed or H&R's would be better than EIBACH's." I want like a 2" to 2.5" drop.
...I was thinking about the same ones off ebay. LOL.
Do you know if you're going to need struts?
Why are you looking to buy weak struts that don't have the power to use with stiffer lowering springs? If your bent on tokico's you should run them with the softest lowering springs you can get, the H&R/Neuspeeds. Even then, using them will give you bounce and controll issues and your ride quality will suffer. And thing's will be much worse if you run coilovers, or drops lower than 1.5" unless you get one of the last set's of koni's or invest in revalved bilsteins.Quote:
Originally posted by Mike's89AccordLX
I'm going to be buying a new set of four Tokico's. And DXHATCHBACK told me EIBACH would be one of the best springs b/c they're softer. I saw on nopi the pro kit is only an inch drop and the sportline EIBACH's are 1.4" drop. He also said, "Neuspeed or H&R's would be better than EIBACH's." I want like a 2" to 2.5" drop.
I don't say what I say cause I have some notion that if you don't spend money, the parts are gonnna suck. I say what I say based on a ton of research and first hand expercience. I say what I say cause I care. I got my car wrong the first time and I wasted money cause no one was on this board that knew any better No one spoke up and said hey don't buy bilsteins they don't have enough stiffness for lowering springs, you'll have bouce and you'll hate the ride quality. I am the voice telling you better. Now if you don't care about getting the suspension right, go ahead and do what ever please's you, but just know if you don't like what you get, I told ya so and the other guy that did listen to me, his car, with better strut control, will not only ride better than your car, it'll handle better to. Some peole still don't care about any of that, it that's you, that's ok, But me,........................I do care.:wave:
For a 2" drop get the suspension techniques springs and check and see if www.tirerack.com still will let you order koni's. That gives you the drop you want and good overall performance.
Those coilovers are likely either DropZone's or relabeled one's.Quote:
Originally posted by hondaaccord_86
...I was thinking about the same ones off ebay. LOL.
Do you know if you're going to need struts?
In any event, their likely REALLY stiff, which I'll talk a bit more in a little bit.
Are you going to need struts? Yes definately. Like most car's on the road, the accord has pretty weak stock struts. That means 2 things. One, they can't be used on a lowered car if you want a decent ride and drive quality. Second problem with the stock struts being soft is, when the aftermarket makes thier sturts and if they happen to make a "high performance" strut, like tokico H.P.'s, the 10% increase in stiffness at best they offer isn't enough of a differance over a allready soft stock design.
So what do you do? Well we have a new problem. Koni struts ($432) are the only strut made for our cars that can handle all the lowering springs made for our cars. But Koni just announce the struts have been discontinued. Tirerack is still selling them, but the suppy is about to run out,..........forever. The Koni's will also handle Ground-Control coilovers. But, getting back to how those ebay coilovers are really stiff. When you get to the colover stiffness of DropZone's (450lbs front and 350lbs rear spring rates). Even the Koni's aren't going to be enough. To ride and drive right on something that stiff, you'd have to invest in revalved (stiffer) Bilstein H.D.'s, which would cost $620
And a word to the wise, KYB GR-2's are noting more than OEM valved replacement sturts, their just as soft as the stock sturts.
Now what parts you use depends on how much you want to have a decent ride and drive quality. If you don't care about bounce or handling, you can use lessor struts. But you and your car do deserve better. But some people want show, and nothing else. Just depend's on what you, are about.
revalved bilstein's seem real expensive... I'd like to see if I can find bilsteins without being revalved, and taking them to a place locally to get them done much less expensively. Struts shouldn't cost $432 at any rate..
Couldn't you get tokicos and get THEM revalved? I've been reading through past posts (and maybe I just can't find it) but my impression is that revalving is like rebuilding, you can make it support more or different pressure and movement (from stiffer springs)..
I'm looking for the hardest ride in town. When someone rides in my car, I want them to get out afterward (if they can still walk) and go DAMN, that hurt my butt... I love it.
And if going to slam my car, is the 2g lude upper control arms really the way to go? Every last person I've PM'd about it has said so, and none of them know of a better (combined with sensible) solution...
And for the rear wheels, I still wonder if the Ingalls supports true slamming. If I were to slam my accord eventually, I'm thinking I'd be looking at some custom work on the rear to make the wheels stand straight.... someone correct me if I'm wrong (or point me to a post, because I can't find it... sorry if these questions were already answered, I looked all over). If someone's done it, I'd still like to talk to them! I'm still asking around!
Thanks ahead of time fellas..
And if I have to, the bilsteins would be a doable solution, I was just looking for a much more economical way of doing it, or a different way... ride stiffness is what I want. I am getting the impression that arospeed (or some other company... I've heard bad things about DropZone from some ppl at preludepower.com and other places) coilovers or otherwise will provide the stiffest ride... and that most lowering springs, while stiffer, are nothing like riding on tightened coilovers...
thanks
I can confirm that the softest lowering springs (Neuspeed) mixed with Tokico Blues is not a good combination. I got them back in 2000 (when no one told me not to get those) and I wasted my money. Now I'll install Koni Struts on those springs later today. I'll tell you what I think of those then....
DO NOT buy the tokico... unless you have no choice (no more Konis available)
www.truckin-store.com
find the lowboyz coilovers for our cars.. i have em and with 17 inch wheels, they are super stiff and they dont bounce... @ 480 bucks front and rear for shocks and struts, its a bit of a deal...
Travis
What about tokico's on intrax springs? shepherd79 told me his ride was good with stock and that it would be better with tokico's.
Travis, any idea what the spring rates are on those? I'm very curious about them.Quote:
Originally posted by DXHATCHBACK
www.truckin-store.com
find the lowboyz coilovers for our cars.. i have em and with 17 inch wheels, they are super stiff and they dont bounce... @ 480 bucks front and rear for shocks and struts, its a bit of a deal...
Travis
For anyone who couldn't get that link to work, it's because there's not supposed to be an 'i' in 'truckin'....
http://www.truckn-store.com
thanks for the link though, DX... those are pretty decently hard springs (so it looks) and that price is unbeatable! I might invest!
Thanks a lot I was wondering why it wasn't working. I hopefully get paid today from both jobs then I will maybe buy a set of konis.
Holy cow, that price is pretty unbeatable for what they are... I want to see someone get them and see how they are...
I'd be glad to be the first volunteer, as soon as I have the $... lol
The next cheapest (and probably only cheaper) alternative is to get $100 dropzone or arospeed coilovers with $146 (for four) KYB-G2 struts... maybe the arospeeds aren't as hard as the dropzones?! Does anyone know?
Wow, sorry to post again on the same thread, but I just noticed that they also sell adjustable upper control arms for our car...
I'd be willing to try those out too, as soon as I get the money into it...
Tirerack has the rear camber kits available, but I don't know how adjustable those are... has anyone checked them out?!
those lowboyz look like a great deal and it comes and dxhatchback said it rides great i hope they dont discontinue anytime soon because thas on my wish list to get soon for sure
Hey for $89 for coilovers those Low Boyz don't look to bad. Damn I didn't get enough money from my paychecks so no koni's for me. Maybe I will just get those low boyz and get some revalved bilstiens with jim's group buy thing. Hey Travis pm me or hit me up on MSN and let me know about the coilovers. What kind of struts did you use with them? All that good stuff. Thanks for the help guys.
I rearranged your text to let me better reply, sorry.Quote:
Originally posted by Versanick
1. Revalved bilstein's seem real expensive... I'd like to see if I can find bilsteins without being revalved, and taking them to a place locally to get them done much less expensively. Struts shouldn't cost $432 at any rate.. And if I have to, the bilsteins would be a doable solution, I was just looking for a much more economical way of doing it, or a different way... ride stiffness is what I want.
2. Couldn't you get tokicos and get THEM revalved? I've been reading through past posts (and maybe I just can't find it) but my impression is that revalving is like rebuilding, you can make it support more or different pressure and movement (from stiffer springs)..
3. I'm looking for the hardest ride in town. When someone rides in my car, I want them to get out afterward (if they can still walk) and go DAMN, that hurt my butt... I love it. I am getting the impression that arospeed (or some other company) coilovers or otherwise will provide the stiffest ride... and that most lowering springs, while stiffer, are nothing like riding on tightened coilovers...(I've heard bad things about DropZone from some ppl at preludepower.com and other places)
4. And if going to slam my car, is the 2g lude upper control arms really the way to go? Every last person I've PM'd about it has said so, and none of them know of a better (combined with sensible) solution...
5. And for the rear wheels, I still wonder if the Ingalls supports true slamming. If I were to slam my accord eventually, I'm thinking I'd be looking at some custom work on the rear to make the wheels stand straight.... someone correct me if I'm wrong (or point me to a post, because I can't find it... sorry if these questions were already answered, I looked all over). If someone's done it, I'd still like to talk to them! I'm still asking around!
Thanks ahead of time fellas..
thanks
1. Yes the revalved Bilsteins are expensive, but I'm telling you that to buy them NOT revalved is a foolish mistake. I spent the money to revalve them because I made the mistake of thinking they could handle stiffer lowering springs, the SOFTEST lowering springs they make for the 3g in fact. WRONG WRONG WRONG, even though the Bilsteins are 15% stiffer than stock struts, just like the Tokico H.P.'s they don't have what it takes to ride and drive or deliver true handing gains like struts that do. As far as sturts shouldn't cost $432, it's not my fault thats what they charge. It's not my fault that KYB GR-2's are just oem valved replacements and that $235 Tokico's H.P.s are only slightly stiffer than stock. Heck the cheapest strut out right now that's good with midly stiff lowering springs, that you CAN"T GET FOR 3g's ANYWAYS are KYB AGX struts, and those cost $360. Do not lower your car with $$$ limits in mind. Set yourself up to do it right and ask yourself if you willing to spend the money to do that. I don't just say what to do based on how much it costs, I say what to do to get the car right. If your not willing to spend the money to do that, than accept that you will have issues that you likely won't like and could have avoided.
2. Never ever heard of H.P.s being revalveable, and if you call and find out the first thing they will tell you is to use their illumina struts since those are the ones for stiffer lowering springs, but of course they DON'T MAKE illumina's for our cars. But you can certainly call Tokico and ask them if they have a revalving service.
1-800-548-2549 ask for a tech by the name of Tiffany I really don't think they do. But the call is free:wave:
3. When you read about someone dishing a certain coilover, it's almost never cause of the quality of the adjustment system. It is almost always cause that person is trying to run hecka stiff coilover on weak struts and the go and blame the coilover for their misery. They need to blame the struts, that's the problem. If you want a stiff setup, I'll bet the arospeed's and the DropZones are about the same stiffness, extreamly stiff. Meaning the revalved Bilsteins (or Koni's if you can grab a set before the supply runs out) are the only way to tame something that stiff. Don't go with revalved and you will treat yourself to bounce with ride quality issues. And your overall performance handling wise will be lower than compaired to someone that went with the revalved sturts.
4. Why did they say no? The 2g lude are solution is more senseable than trying to find aftermarket parts and it'll get the job done fine. Lot's of member here have them and are perfectly happy having done so.
5. I got a real issue with rear camber correction. If you survey 10 member with low drops and you ask them about rear camber correction. 5 will say you don't need any correction. And the other 5 will say you absolutely have to correct it. All 10 of them FIRMLY believe what they say. Saying what you say, just how low do you need to go, will you car still be streetable?
In conclusion. What this is all about is this. How much do you care? If you don't care about how the car ride, drives and performs suspension wise, then your free to go with lessor performing parts. I provide the info on how to avoid that. It's up to you if you want that and if you want to pay for that. Some people only care about how the car looks and allot less about getting it right. Just decide where your comming from and decide what road you want to take. I'll tell ya right now, it's a great car when you do get it right.:wave:
KYB GR-2's are oem valved replacements. Use them on any lowered car is a big mistake. To be frank,.............It would be like driving down the freeway rolling down your window and throwing the $140 you just waisted out of the car. And I'll tell ya right now, tokico's ain't going to be different enough to work either. Members that try them on coilovers that are SOFTER yes SOFTER than dropzone's or arospeed coilovers report HATING all the bounce they allow.Quote:
Originally posted by Versanick
Holy cow, that price is pretty unbeatable for what they are... I want to see someone get them and see how they are...
I'd be glad to be the first volunteer, as soon as I have the $... lol
The next cheapest (and probably only cheaper) alternative is to get $100 dropzone or arospeed coilovers with $146 (for four) KYB-G2 struts... maybe the arospeeds aren't as hard as the dropzones?! Does anyone know?
this is what i have.. all in one..
and mark... i dont have the rates of the springs... sorry... they are stiff...
oh yah! link!!!
http://www.truckn-store.com/product....t.asp&ID=23891
Travis
Okay here we go
The Honda lowboyz springs and struts on http://www.truckn-store.com aren't as hard as I'd hoped. I called the guy (some rep named Kenny) and asked about the spring rate, etc
He says the lowboyz springs are 285 lb/sq.in and the struts are barely stiffer than stock...
I was hoping for like 480 lb!! damn!!!!!!
Ugh.... time to find a new solution... still a REAL good price for lowering you car... you could get a rear camber kit on tirerack, and the adjustable upper control arm on the lowboyz site, and you'll have yourself a kit... (or the 2g lude uca's..)
So there they are. only 285lb/in2, and he said less than 10% stiffer than stock for the struts, but they are meant to handle the lower/raise, adjustable-like.
Still a good price to lower your car... don't plan on going 40mph around 25mph turns with this system though (I don't think!)
hmm... well.. maybe its just the 215/40/17s that make it super hard.. if they are really that soft, i would HATE to have dropzones!! lol
Travis
Geez I don't know how well they'd do with 13's then. I might still get them though. Anyone think those are too soft for small wheels?
i was running my 13's for about 3 days last week... it was sooo much more comfortable, but it still seemed stiff... i could still corner real well and it wasnt as harsh on small bumps
Travis
Well I think I will eventually go with the low boyz setup b/c it doesnt seem very bad at all. And plus it can't be worse than what I got now. :)
Hey Travis I installed my HU and damn!!! so nice. For some reason my subs dont work, but I had a friend look at it and the remote wire is bad so I will take everything out and go at it again. But even without the subs and old 6.5's it sounds sweet so I can't wait until I have an entire Kenwood system installed.
thats sweet man... wait till you get the whole thing in.. it will POUND!!!!!!!!!!! you really should tell me about the strut bar as payment for hookin you up... lemme know what the bar is
Travis
Versanick, if ur a lil tight on money or not so serious about ur suspension, then this is not the right time for you to debate and get confused in all this comossion. A lot of people here do not have the means or money to do things twice. So here is the deal. You read what Jim mentioned in his replies. He explained it in great detail. You want great handling without sacrificing your ride comfort and your safety, well Konis with progress springs are the way to go. U can get then for around 600 bucks (front and rear, strut and coils) shipped to your door.
You get what you spend. You spend 300 bux on 4 struts thinkin it would be good and ur saving around 150 bucks compared to the konis, well you are gonna get handling thats worth less than 150 bux. WHich means, its not gonna be what you expected and you cant go back.
So here is the conclusion to my rambling. IF you want great handling car and expect much nicer response and cornering Two things are for you. KONI struts and PROGRESS lowering springs. :)
Thanks a ton... The guy at my local speed shop has guaranteed me he can get me the Koni's I need...
Although ride discomfort is my goal, not comfort. I want everyone who just rode in my car for a 4 minute ride to go "DAMN, my ass hurts!", every single time. I want long trips to make your rear end so sore that it's almost sickening. I wasn't joking about that... I think it's the coolest thing ever. That's why I was looking at DropZone and Arospeed coilovers... not because of the expense of them, but because they are 400+lb/in2 stiff... I was just looking for struts to handle them (assuming Konis will? I haven't gotten to talk to my speed shop guy about that yet; just a quick call about if he could find them)...
All I was looking forward to NOT doing was spending $632 for a pair of revalved Billstein HD's... I can certainly agree spending that much (or in excess of $900 total) for making my ride where I need it to be, after I buy the rear camber adjustments from tirerack.com and the adjustable control arms from truckn-store.com, ...
but to just spend that much on a couple of struts was beyond me. I'm not looking to go budget on anything here... I was just looking to see if there's a strut that will actually resonably handle a ride that's lowered excessively (like I'm looking for 3-4" down)... without making ridiculous bounce. Stiffness? I want it as stiff as it can possibly bee... response, cornerning, and handling are a must.
If progress springs are going to make the ride nice though, that's not what I want... I very much appreciate the advice, and respect it, and would certainly go down that route... some of my friends have real nice Eibach springs and tokico gas stuff that costed them a lot of money (on their other cars), and they handle nice, and they have real nice ride comfort....
Then I have another friend whose integra is lowered around 5", with coilovers, some crazy KYB strut that they made for a slightly different car that the speed shop adapted for him, and he has the stiffest, lowest ride I've EVER ridden in. And that's what I want. When he had his 14" steely wheels, you'd watch the ONLY thing bounce on his car be tire bounce, and that's how I want it...
Since, he's gotten 17" wheels with lp tires, and it rides super-hard... one time he got stuck at the entrace of a mini-golf place at a little zone of construction, and the tiny bump at the entrance pinned up his shift linkage, and he couldn't move the car... had to have me and two construction worker dudes help lift his car out lol...
anyway... while I"m on a side track..
Dude for a remote wire, instead of tearing everything apart or anything like that, go get a switch (any kind of switch, even a light switch from a house - yes I've tried it), and run some small-gague wire from your power (that goes into the amp) to the switch, back to the remote.
That way your amp/sub is now on a switch, on or off anytime you want (or when cops go by), without even playing with your deck. Remote goes on a lot of decks real easy. I've done it on 4 systems of my friends, all with JVC or Pioneer or Aiwa decks... totally random..
the switch method always works though. remote just needs some power that's all.
give it some hot.
Ride it fast, play it loud, and keep it low.
H
-Vers
i would not suggest coil overs for daily drivers. Its pretty pointless to have ur car lowered more than 1.5" and expect great handling.
The prefect drop for optimum handling is 1.5" and nothing more. But you can get away with 2" drop with a stiffer spring like Progress group. Neuspeed and Other coils are very soft like you might have heard from our mod JIM C. the best performance oriented setup is having konis ($425 a set of 4) and the progress group progressive springs ($150). So ur spending around $575 for the best handling and ride suspension set up.
Any other coil i would suggest you put it on Tokikos or KYBs.
You dont really need a camber adjustment in the rear for our cars, but for the front, you can get the Control arms from a 2nd gen prelude to fix ur camber.
