Rjudgey'a B20A Build

Thanks for the advice just want to get clear that everything i have listed is correct.

EURO B20A 2G Lude 1986 (Using as test bed till i get my 3G aerodeck)

Head:
Custom made inlet manifold 6" long runners 10 degree downward angle for twin Moddified Weber DCOE 45's
Custom Stainless Steel Exhaust Header and system (2.5")
Cat Cams 278 Degree Cams with 11mm Lift
Cat Cams Valve springs and retainers
AEM Cam Pulley's
Gates Cambelt
Machined lightweight crank pulley
34mm inlet valves Stainless Steel (Custom)
30mm Exhaust valves Stainless Steel (Custom)
Radiused Valve seats
Headwork by myself with attention to the valve guide area using custom designed ports for best flow around guide and valve stem on both exhaust and inlet ports
Slight Skim to clean surface and Raise CR ratio
Ajusa Head gasket kit

Block:
Re-bore to 82mm
B16 pistons 82mm Wiseco forged flat top crowns with pistons pin hole increased to 22mm
H23 rods billet steel H beam with 22mm little end
H23/B20A Big end Bearings ACL/Toga
B20A Main Bearings
Engine blueprinted
Ajusa Block gasket kit

Transmission:
Stock B20A flywheel lightened and balanced
A20A Clutchnet Red pressure plate and solid Kevlar puck disk
New syncros and uprated bearings in gearbox
B16A Quaife LSD (Does fit right?)

What do you guy's think projected cost is around £2000 pounds including the exhaust system but i'm working on a deal with the welder as he needs two pairs of Audi V8 heads race flowed he also made the inlet manifold too. And £1000 for the Gearbox re-build/upgrade.

I'm expecting between 220-230whp with a powerband of between 4-8.5k rpm and a fat amount of B20A Torque you guy's reckon thats atainable?? I think so with the amount of research and power i've gotten from A18/ET1/A20's.
Considering the Mugen B20A made 240bhp at the flywheel with a 24mm inlet restrictor plate in place i think this should really fly especially if i can get 35mm inlet valves in but it's a bit tight!! Any feedback/suggestions welcome.

BTW measured the piston pins on my spare B20A rods and they are actually 20mm?? I'd been told they were 22mm??
Not that it matters as i plan on using H23 Rods just thought i'd mention it!!

All the B20A spec papers said that pin diameter is 22mm...
I don't know why yours are smaller??

Otherwise this set-up is ok for 230whp as far as you have C/R 12-12.5:1

I disagree only with lightweight crank pulley and bigger valves.

Stock valves of B20a are ok for 270 hp.

Bigger valves+ wilder cams= A LOT OF PROBLEMS

Good Luck rjudgey

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Originally Posted by rjudgey

BTW measured the piston pins on my spare B20A rods and they are actually 20mm?? I'd been told they were 22mm??
Not that it matters as i plan on using H23 Rods just thought i'd mention it!!

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i just checked the B20A1 and B20A2/8 factory specs and they do indeed say 20mm... hmmm, the B20A5 ones are 22mm though. And adam and others have used B20A5 pistons in their B20A, but did they also use B20A5 rods then.. And carotman had to get his pistons with 21mm pin bored to fit his rods so what rods did he use? Either the JDM B20A use 22mm wrist pin (and the EDM does not) or people just swapped over to B20A5 rods.

But yea doesnt really matter in this case but if you wanted B20A7 pistons you'd just have to use the B20A7 rods as well which you probably would anyway since that would be easier.
Wondering why I never payed any attention to this before though...

Plans for the engine looks good. I'd see if I could get the H23 rods made with a 21mm wrist pin pore rather than having the pistons bored out.

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rjudgey Transmission:
Stock B20A flywheel lightened and balanced
A20A Clutchnet Red pressure plate and solid Kevlar puck disk

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The A20A pressure plate is not the same as the B20a .I don't know how you would make that fit Here in th US there is a night and day difference between them .

Strange as the search's i did for clutches suggested that a A20A pressure plate would fit on a early B20A flywheel?

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Originally Posted by rjudgey

Strange as the search's i did for clutches suggested that a A20A pressure plate would fit on a early B20A flywheel?

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A20a pressure plate or clutch will not fit on the B20a flywheel or tray

Well, for the pins I had to get the ITR pistons bored 1mm. I used the stock rods that came with the B20A. My B20A had the PK2 stamp on the pistons tough.

So whats the best clutch setup or do you have to get a A20A5 flywheel and clutch kit? thanks

looks like a nice setup, good luck with ur build!! cant wait to see pics or something more about it!

Heres the engine stock with a badly painted flaking red valve cover (not me previous owner)
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...25_12_full.jpg
The car itself is undergoing a makeover to make it presentable although the chassis is sound theres a reasonable amount of rust that has eaten away at the edges mainly around the rear screen above the windscreen and around the sunroof, worse of it was around the fuel filler which had completely gone so i ahd to carefully reconstruct using fibreglass the inner wing and the inside of the filler, also just below the fuel cap the outside arch panel had been completely eaten away adn had barely any metal left what was left i re-built with fibreglass and filler and re-shaped back into the wheel arch, also had a couple of small holes behind the mudflaps on the chassis and couple of others underneath where some jackass mechanic thought he could jack the car up on so he had crushed it and left it to go rusty!!! what are jacking points for??

This was a pic when i first bought the car when most the rust hadn't started to come through the fairly average attempt at restoring the bodywork. I've repainted the wheel arches to make it look like it's got colour coded plastic effect finish arch covers which doesn't look to bad so now i have to do all four to match but at least it will hide my dodgy painting and save me having to match the paint exactly doesn't sound too good but actually looks really good!!
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...25_15_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...25_11_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...25_14_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...25_13_full.jpg

Will be fitting a pair of these bad boys on which should liven up the old girl and upset the neighbours

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...25_30_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...25_19_full.jpg

Will show you some pics of my new workshop and the spare engine i have which is all in tiny pieces plus the spare box and the millions of other spare parts for ET1/ET/A18/A20 engines i have for my other car.

Sweet!!!!!!!

rjudgey If you can get a whole timing belt cover i will buy it from you.

i can and i have a couple too i don't use them as it's a pain in the arse to change the timing belt had to change the belt recently and was a pig of a job took me all day the AC pump was a real pig as it was bolted on top of the timing cover bolts so had to be removed to get at the cover bolts. Plus you can't see where the oil and water leaks come from if its on!! I prefer things to be more orientated to action rather than looks function over form!!

Can H22A rods be used? are they longer versions to the stock H22 or do i definately need H23 Rods just the guy in the aftermarket shop is telling me to get Eagle H22A which at $299 for a set is really tempting!!!

dose the preludes come with a forward opening hood like that or is it cutum

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Originally Posted by ghettogeddy

dose the preludes come with a forward opening hood like that or is it cutum

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it comes stock like that. pretty cool huh?

Yep good for cooling as you can jack it up a bit for more air flow!!
Only downside is that the B20A everything forward of the windscreen is completely different to any other 2G lude with a A18 or A20 SI suspension, bonnet, griller, air cabin intake, scuttle panels, side lights, radiator, engine mounts only the front wings are the same!!
I like the hump in the bonnet though thats cool shame Accords don't have that.

Dude, your car is just badass!!!!

It will be pretty good when done, it allready came with 4 Koni Red shocks previous owner had fitted them some time back in early 90's although he kept the stock springs? I'm fitting some Jamex -40mm springs to the Konis' though and putting maybe some coilover sleeves onto the rear shocks, i've got perfect fitting ones which are dead on 50mm which only slide on once you've cleaned all the old grime and rust off perfect fit, then it's case of just welding and choosing the right length spring and poundage and drilling the top hat to size, still contemplateing putting a spare set of 4 pot calipers on the front at the moment i have brand new EBC disks with Ferrodo pads and some Goodridge hoses to put on the disks are 260mm so might be okay for the moment trouble is i'm use to 300mm disks and 4 pot calipers on the other Lude and my Beemer has excellent brakes as well.

I've put a CAI on and done the usual mods to improve the Throttle body, although when it's on the move it really goes it's still not happy idling, and i'm fed up of the injection system so i'm definately seriously thinking about ditching the EFI system ASAP especially because of the cost of sensors and the fact that you can't buy half of them either. The inlet manifold is being remade at present as i wasn't happy with the quality of the workmanship (guy rushed it) so he gave me the original and said he'd re-make it again, i'll be able to moddify it and re-use it onto the A20 won't be to totally to my satisfaction but it will do the job and at least get the 12 valve lude up and running while i sus out whats going on with the suspension geometry after i've re-built all the suspension bushes.

Tell you what guy's i've worked on quite a few cylinder heads over the last 6 years, and i must say that considering the age of our cars 20+ years old the ET1/ET/A18/A20/B20A/D16/D15 they were all very advanced for there time the ports and chambers are by far the best compared to other manufacturers, i've worked on a friends Lotus Elan 1991 which had a 1.6 litre DOHC 16 valve with dual stage intake and that was pretty advanced had nice ports nice inlet manifold and also got nice gains from flowing put out about 160bhp and revved to 8k quite easily no other mods other CAI and headwork all stock non turbo model but considering this was an engine designed 5 years after B20A and D16ZC was nothing really special, done some work on a VW Gold GTI 16 vlave engine and again although on paper has the valves and twin cam design the combustion chamber design was weak, and the inlet ports nothing special, and then today was working on my firends son's car which is a EP91 Toyota Starlet SR (Glanza JDM) and it's 1.3 as stock and we'd found a JDM 1.5 engine which is the same but stroked version, tiny little engine cast iron!! (for 1990's onwards is strange) it's got twin cams and 16 valves, but again the combustion chambers were poor angled inlet valves but the exhaust valves were flat on top of the chamber roof!! the ports were excellent shape highly efficient but not at a good angle!! THe inlet valves were nicely angled but the inlet ports themselves were pretty poor, not to mention valve size the inlet valves were 28mm and the exhaust 24.5mm but then i suppose for a 1.5 litre engine there pretty big hoping to squeeze in 30mm and 28mm valves which should really make it rock but going to have to fill great big gaps up where Toyota put the injectors into head and with themm removed to fit bike carbs it's going to leave a horrible gapping space which will really ruin airflow.

I know the early Honda engines weren't great as i've still moddified a huge amount out of them but when compared to other makes from later designed engines they really were cutting edge at the time, and you can understand why they had to have such restrictive induction systems, and exhuast systems plus really tame camshafts to keep power levels sensible considering the JDM 2G lude came out in 86 and had 160bhp that was pretty much unheard of at the time most good 2.0l engines could only give you 130bhp except for the Lotus Designed Vauxhall XE engine which had 150bhp but that came out couple years after!! And the design was very similar to B20A, only thing to really touch it was Cosworth BDA and Lotus twink engines but they struggles to produced good power unless they had Weber DCOE's on.

BTW found a B20A rockers cover with the original Gold paint still left on trouble is previous owner was so bad with the oil changes really badly gunged up will try and get it cleaned up hopefully it won't remove the paint as the gold colour looks pretty cool very period look!! Will take the other one off and re-paint it blue i think.

Going to start on the B20A head soon can't wait, i've got such a good deisgn for the ports it's going to be killer and it will have some seriously large valves inside too hoping to get 34.5 maybe 35mm inlet valves definately 30mm exhausts valves going in, the Weber DCOE 45's are going to struggle to supply enough fuel shame there isn't enough room for some 50's then theres allways ITB's which can have twin injectors and go upto 55mm in diameter!! Can't wait to here the noise it will make when it fires up it's going to be awesome teh big valve A18 head i did was bloody loud and that only had 33mm inlet valves and 4 35mm exhaust valves!!

Got these little bad boys in the post the other day machined 2mm off the back of the centre spindle so that they fit onto the belt perfectly should do the trick nicely and look good too. Good price good service and good product very impressed you Americans can certainly make some good stuff at very good prices!!

The back of this you can see is shiny in the middle this is due to the machining on the lathe to reduce the width to fit perfectly.

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...25_69_full.jpg

Can't wait to get some matching cams to put on them too just need a better paid job to get all these parts :0(

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...25_70_full.jpg

cant see pix

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Originally Posted by gfrg88

cant see pix

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+2

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Originally Posted by TWOLOUDNPROUD

A20a pressure plate or clutch will not fit on the B20a flywheel or tray

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my young brother have a PH3 clutch and pressure plate on his A20A1. isn't it the # for B20A?

Try it now Cardomain playing up i think.

Try the cardomain site can't work out why they keep dropping. just a pic of a skunk2 pulley front and rear.

Go here on web browser
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/281725/13

so they DID have to be modified a bit. I thought so too. What brand are they?