help i gots $ money just no parts

ok guys i know this is someone elses dream but just collected $1,350 from the goverment for overpaid taxes<due to the fact i was over charged> and now i get to play with my car a 1986 2.0 4cyl carbed honda accord lx. my clutch was going out so i've already orded a preformance replacement<pressure plate,friction disk,throwout bearing,and plan on getting my stock flywheel lightend> anyway i have the engine and tranny out of the car i pulled the head a for new cam,springs,valves, and get the head port and polished. i want to know any ideas or more shit i can do to it till im outa money. i am already working on a nos setup so dont say hey u should get nos and blow it up <a buddie told me i should see how much nos a stock a20 will take before it granades>.i already have new cvjoints, and suspension parts i dono where i can get a front strut tower brace that will fit my carbed accord.i already have a msd box and coil setup. o i need to get my exaust fixed so give me some good ideas on headers,mufflers,cats ect. i also want to know about pistons/rings/rods that are avalible for our cars.

oh and this is a list of prices so far
$252 for clutch stuff

$100 for cam

$??? for flywheel lightning or $275 for clutch nets aluminum flywheel

$??? gota call bout head machinework

$409 for new weber carb and crap to bolt it up right < i want a good weber but i dont know if i want new that bad what u guys think >

just do a fuel injection swap...you will like it over any carb since carbs have to be tuned and a fuel injection swap will regular on its own once its been installed right the first time. i decided to do my brakes and suspension since i want it to handle good once i get the engine mods going...so far i have a adjustable cam gear. my next performance mods are headers, exhaust and intake.

so what are you looking for? suggestions for what to spend your money on?

i would get a nice header, cat, and exhaust system next, since it seems like you have the basic motor stuff covered.

you might also want to throw some money at suspension parts like coilovers and struts, or get some tires or something...

what areas are you looking to improve about the car?

your call bro. turbo'd FI or beefed up NA carb. there's people from both sides of that fence here. just do a little research

Well you have some choices

Header
1) 4-1 S&S header
2) 4-2-1 Pacesetter
3) Have someone hack up a $160 4-2-1 Megan Racing stainless steel header (needs A20 Flange also)
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50705

Exhaust
1) Custom 2" Mandrel or draw bent (not Press bent pipe) Smallest you'd want to go
2) Custom 2.25" Mandrel or draw bent (not Press bent pipe) Largest on mildly modified engines
3) Pacesetter Cat back 2.25"

Induction that fits on stock manifold
1) 38 Weber Carb *better performance
*Ask distributor to substitute 32/36 in weber kit with the 38 weber carb.
2) 32/36 Weber Carb *better for gas milage
You can run water choke or electric choke for either carb.

Camshaft
1) Colt Triflow regrind stage 2 *expensive but worth it.
2) Delta Regrind ???

i wouldent lighten a stock fly wheel get the aluminum flywheel oh an dhow much does that aluminum one waigh the stock ways 22 pounds and are about $60

Quote:

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Originally Posted by A20A1

Well you have some choices

Header
1) 4-1 S&S header
2) 4-2-1 Pacesetter
3) Have someone hack up a $160 4-2-1 Megan Racing stainless steel header (needs A20 Flange also)
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50705

Exhaust
1) Custom 2" Mandrel or draw bent (not Press bent pipe) Smallest you'd want to go
2) Custom 2.25" Mandrel or draw bent (not Press bent pipe) Largest on mildly modified engines
3) Pacesetter Cat back 2.25"

Induction that fits on stock manifold
1) 38 Weber Carb *better performance
*Ask distributor to substitute 32/36 in weber kit with the 38 weber carb.
2) 32/36 Weber Carb *better for gas milage
You can run water choke or electric choke for either carb.

Camshaft
1) Colt Triflow regrind stage 2 *expensive but worth it.
2) Delta Regrind ???

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yea im looking for stuff i can throw money at in my car. i need brands, names , webaddys, phone numbers, part numbers...
a20a1 are u volunteering to hack up a megan header?? i dont like pacesetter, and i havent seen the s&s one yet anywhere. oh yea anyone know of some good upper end parts such as valve springs,retainers, and valves i can use and i have already orderd a delta 272 cam i have the specs but id have to find em if someone needs them for spring recomendation <hopen to get it to idle at lights,stop signs ect.> cheaper route on a webber carb maybe?? can we use a WEBER 32/36 DFAV if so i think i know where i might be able to get one. run some ideas, i want more input, waste some threadspace oh ghettogeddy the aluminum one weighs 12 pounds my stock one weighs 22 pounds right now ledgen master gave me a machin shops number in fort worth, tx that he said could lighten it down pretty good for cheap and the one from clutch net is like $275 ouch and maybe another month till i could get it

EFI FTW!!!!!!!! nos on a carbed engine??? comon.. i would get the body all fixed up nicely first but if its already in good condition well thenlisten 2 what the others said

Nitrous was on carbed motors long before it went on EFI

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Overdosed A18A

EFI FTW!!!!!!!! nos on a carbed engine??? comon.. i would get the body all fixed up nicely first but if its already in good condition well thenlisten 2 what the others said

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body is fix up pretty nice check out the link to my cardomain
and nos yes on a carbed accord is goin to happen ima try running a 50 shot direct port wet setup i have the stuff just gonna plumb each of the foggers into the intake close to the head as i can when i get her back together

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37261

I'm happy to see you're running a wet setup... dry setup on carb need extra rich mixture at WOT to make up for the nitrous. Then when you don't run nitrous you change a jet or two and lean it up some.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by accord upset

yea im looking for stuff i can throw money at in my car. i need brands, names , webaddys, phone numbers, part numbers...
a20a1 are u volunteering to hack up a megan header?? i dont like pacesetter, and i havent seen the s&s one yet anywhere. oh yea anyone know of some good upper end parts such as valve springs,retainers, and valves i can use and i have already orderd a delta 272 cam i have the specs but id have to find em if someone needs them for spring recomendation <hopen to get it to idle at lights,stop signs ect.> cheaper route on a webber carb maybe?? can we use a WEBER 32/36 DFAV if so i think i know where i might be able to get one. run some ideas, i want more input, waste some threadspace oh ghettogeddy the aluminum one weighs 12 pounds my stock one weighs 22 pounds right now ledgen master gave me a machin shops number in fort worth, tx that he said could lighten it down pretty good for cheap and the one from clutch net is like $275 ouch and maybe another month till i could get it

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ya the dif is if u lighten a stock clutch u loose flywheel to clutch surface if u buy the aluminum one it will be a t stock spec's just lighter

ok update i gota weber 38 DGEV 4a2 for 287.75 but i still need a the adapter plates, gaskets, and linkage setup.
heres some pics of the one i bought
http://i16.ebayimg.com/04/i/07/a6/0c/c1_1.JPG
http://i1.ebayimg.com/03/i/07/aa/c0/fe_1_b.JPG
oh and the stock flywheel went to ft worth to get lightented balenced and resurfaced
the head shop is working on the head but they cant finish till the cam comes in so im just waiting on shipping on stuff right now and cleaning stuff up on the engine as much as possable. im think it sux that i might have to wait on a header im not going with pacesetter,, im not impressed at all with there products. then theres dc which i could get but most likely wont be able to get till im back at work for a week or 2. last but not least theres s&s which i still havent found a phone number to so i can price a header or possable place an order.im also going to try to get a new flexpipe to replace the one i have for now. any other ideas befor i run outa money you guys

wuts up with the park bench?lol nice car by the way. you should also get the 88-89 front bumper, there cheap at jy and also a 1g teg lip too. that should run ya about 20-30 bucks and would look 10x better imo.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by accord upset

ok update i gota weber 38 DGEV 4a2 for 287.75 but i still need a the adapter plates, gaskets, and linkage setup.
heres some pics of the one i bought
http://i16.ebayimg.com/04/i/07/a6/0c/c1_1.JPG
http://i1.ebayimg.com/03/i/07/aa/c0/fe_1_b.JPG

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alright now that you have good intake/carb. Now you can start thinking of a good exhaust to back it up...you can get the pacesetter ones for like 180 and another 180 at your local exhuast shop will get you a nice 2.25 pipe with a muffler....all the stuff. you have to post pic after do it.

Did you list what jets the 38 came with?

Also what motor was that installed on?
What was the motors displacement?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by A20A1

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37261

I'm happy to see you're running a wet setup... dry setup on carb need extra rich mixture at WOT to make up for the nitrous. Then when you don't run nitrous you change a jet or two and lean it up some.

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This link was in the thread I posted...
http://www.ssheaders.com/4cylinder.htm

you had to click on the name "S&S" which was the link to the website.

anyways the phone # is at the bottom.

bad news first i just got laid off :gun: with like 30 other peeps from a company i just started and was talking about sending me to school to learn technical enginering :wtf: ,, but how bout a big bowl of fuck them and on with the car build maybe i'll get it together a lil quicker now that i have a vacation. the header will definatly have to wait now but it has to be back together for me to find a new job <assumeing i havent already got one> :-)

ok i just got the clutch pressure plate and friction disc along with the carb in the mail today its stamped as a weber 38dgas 4a2 but it has a electric choke. the guy said it was set up for a 4 cylender truck but no engine size or make or model he sent the parts list with the carb. on the parts list that he sent it shows part numbers and size in mm. so if the stuff thats in it hasnt been changed this is what i got so far.
main jet: weber part number 41120.001 ,,,and size in mm is 1.45
air corrector jet: pn 41360.001 ,, 1.85
emulsioning tube: pn 61440.216 ,, f50
idling jet: pn 41160.003 ,, .45
pump jet: pn 41252.013 ,, .70
i'll check in a lil if thats possable without tearing the carb apart.

pleaseeeeeeeeeeee take off the wing

woah a 70 pump jet.

Main Jet: 145
Air Correction Jet: 185
Emulsion Tube: F50
Idle Jet: 45
Pump Jet: 70


Setting on a 1751cc (1.8 liter) Engine
Main Jet: 140
Air Correction Jet:185
Emulsion Tube: F50
Idle Jet: 55
Pump Jet: 70
Running a little rich at idle with 60 idle jets, lowered to 55.
Leans slightly @ steady 4000 rpm, so possibly bump up mains and change air correction and emulsion tubes.
The pump jet might be too large.

Setting on a 2994cc (3.0 liter) Engine
Main Jet: 145
Air Correction Jet: 185
Emulsion Tube: F50
Idle jet: 50
Pump Jet: 65


Based on those I'd say you are okay with both your air correction and your mains.
All you would have to worry about would be your idle jet, the pump jet and the emulsion tube.
You pump jet may need to be lowered to a 65
The idle jet can be checked using the adjustment methods here:
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4223
remember to count the # of turns for both idle screws. If you need a larger idle jet, you must get 2.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ghettogeddy

ya the dif is if u lighten a stock clutch u loose flywheel to clutch surface if u buy the aluminum one it will be a t stock spec's just lighter

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Actually they take the metal off the back fo the flywheel and leave a little hump in the middle to allow for the same thickness. They did it on my factory b18 flywheel and it works great.

cant take off the wing i'll have holes in my trunk i dont like that idea. and will i need to buy some jets and then start tuning. or will i be able to adjust it enuf to make it work as is. hey ledgen thanks for the numbers man. he said when i pick up the flywheel i should ecpect 12lbs or less. remember it started at 22lbs so thats 10lbs of rotational weight that i just tossed. the cam should be here tomarrow. the head still have no timeframe on. flywheel should be back on wendsay. but everything is starting to come together.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by accord upset

cant take off the wing i'll have holes in my trunk i dont like that idea. and will i need to buy some jets and then start tuning. or will i be able to adjust it enuf to make it work as is. hey ledgen thanks for the numbers man. he said when i pick up the flywheel i should ecpect 12lbs or less. remember it started at 22lbs so thats 10lbs of rotational weight that i just tossed. the cam should be here tomarrow. the head still have no timeframe on. flywheel should be back on wendsay. but everything is starting to come together.

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no problem man, they do some very good work and they will only take off enough weight to still make it safe. Were are you getting the head work done?

jimmy allard here in ennis. make shure the old man allard does it the kids up there arnt as good.

:wtf: man the guys sent the wrong clutch pressure plate it looks close but the bolt holes are wrong and the part that accually touches the friction disk on my flywheel is recessed,, its also smaller in diameter of the friction material. this is a side view diagram i just made a sec ago.


--______-- old pressure plate,,,,, ---------- new pressure plate

--______-- <<<<<flywheel>>>>> --_____--

guess its time to call the clutch peeps and piss someone off.

I'll give you a trunk lid if you send me pictures of that wing on fire or in the crusher. lol

ok got the flywheel back they said they couldnt take it down any lower than 14 safely so my flywheel is at 14 lbs now and im very please with there work and how fast they got it done. the carb mounting plate just got here today. the clutch guys told me just to send the wrong one back and they'll send the right one. the head should be back tomarrow so im gonna start putting things back together tomarrow. oh and ex-ile if you would have told me that befor i got my car painted we kould have roasted marshmellows around it.

I can hook you up with the trunk lid, and just about any other part you need man. Good luck with that bild it sounds like its gonna be a hog :rockon:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by accord upset

ok got the flywheel back they said they couldnt take it down any lower than 14 safely so my flywheel is at 14 lbs now and im very please with there work and how fast they got it done. the carb mounting plate just got here today. the clutch guys told me just to send the wrong one back and they'll send the right one. the head should be back tomarrow so im gonna start putting things back together tomarrow. oh and ex-ile if you would have told me that befor i got my car painted we kould have roasted marshmellows around it.

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sorry i dont want to search but how much does a stock flywheel weigh? and how much did it cost you to shave it down.....i heard that the car reves up faster.

22 pounds but when u shave the flywheel u loos surface area for the clutch to grap its smarter to buy and actuall aluminum flywheel then to have the stock one reduced

MessyHonda88dx there is no loss of friction surface the weight is shaved off of the back side of the flywheel. stock flywheel is about 22 pounds give or take a lil for resurfacing and he could not shave it lower than 14 lbs and it cost me 118 to get it done and took him less than a week to get it done.
i had mine lightend, resurfaced and balenced.

oh my cardomain will feature the build on it with plentiful pics, but you'll have to wait till i get it back together to see em i'll update it with the pics after its all over so i dont have to do it a billion times

see theres the bit of info i dident know so they take it from the back side not the front were they would turn the rotor, so i woulnder why they make them so hevey in the first place u would think they would want to save money so the lighter the better

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ghettogeddy

see theres the bit of info i dident know so they take it from the back side not the front were they would turn the rotor, so i woulnder why they make them so hevey in the first place u would think they would want to save money so the lighter the better

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Honestly its probably because they didnt build these motors for high end performance. A heavier clutch makes more TQ and less HP, since these cars were "heavy" for a Honda in the 80's they had to make a little bit more TQ and not so much HP. My flywheel was done the exact same way and I have had no problems after 6K miles.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...64_13_full.jpg

This is what gives us Honda drivers a bad name these stupid graphics. Don't take offense to this comment I am just saying. but all in all the car looks real good and sounds like you are really taking care of it. I really love those z3's how much did those run you? Again please don't take offense to this comment. Oh and the wing has to go. :p

everone is intitled to there own opinion if you dont like it say so im not going to come to your house and kill anyone... lol

z-3 are fiberglass from fatboy motorsports in cali and ran bout 150-175 i think

hey does anyone have the part number for the manifold adapter plate for a 38 weber for an 86 honda accord. they sent me 99004.126 and it doesnt match up.

the guy at www.honda-performance.com said he'd make stuff for our cars.

and i had a lil question, since we're talkin' about beefing up carb's (finally) someone shoot me a ballpark estimate of what this build up would do.

Weber 38
Colt Tri-Flow
Cam Gear
Pacesetter Header
3" Exhaust Back to Magnaflow Muffler
Shot Peened Rods
Racing Springs and Retainers
Some good Headwork (3 angle valve job, etc.)
Oversized Valves
Lightened Flywheel
MAYBE a shot of Nitrous...

any ideas of what that would do 1/4 mile or 0-60?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sinisterfuzzy

the guy at www.honda-performance.com said he'd make stuff for our cars.

and i had a lil question, since we're talkin' about beefing up carb's (finally) someone shoot me a ballpark estimate of what this build up would do.

Weber 38
Colt Tri-Flow
Cam Gear
Pacesetter Header
3" Exhaust Back to Magnaflow Muffler
Shot Peened Rods
Racing Springs and Retainers
Some good Headwork (3 angle valve job, etc.)
Oversized Valves
Lightened Flywheel
MAYBE a shot of Nitrous...

any ideas of what that would do 1/4 mile or 0-60?

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3 inch exaust is prolly to big

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ghettogeddy

3 inch exaust is prolly to big

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alright then, with w/e for exhaust what would the performance be?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sinisterfuzzy

alright then, with w/e for exhaust what would the performance be?

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it all depends on who you knoe....and what you knoe so you can put the stuff back together or you have to let a shop do all the work....im a cheap guy so i would just get some A20a3 pistons and a cam and stick it in the A20a1 that you have...they have a higher compression so you will go from 9.1 to 9.3....might rethink the exhuast maybe 2.25... you can save some serious money plus you wont be dissapointed if they are not the numbers you expected....its a 18+ year old car but just a rebuild of the engine will be better....just my .02 cents

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MessyHonda88dx

it all depends on who you knoe....and what you knoe so you can put the stuff back together or you have to let a shop do all the work....im a cheap guy so i would just get some A20a3 pistons and a cam and stick it in the A20a1 that you have...they have a higher compression so you will go from 9.1 to 9.3....might rethink the exhuast maybe 2.25... you can save some serious money plus you wont be dissapointed if they are not the numbers you expected....its a 18+ year old car but just a rebuild of the engine will be better....just my .02 cents

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alright, with my build up and 2.25" exhaust what is a guess of what this would do in the 1/4 or 0-60

16.0

ouch i hope it'll pull better than that

i want parts but have no money...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bobafett

16.0

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i was kinda hoping i could hit like 15's solid.

did anyone mention this dude should throw on a Ignition Coil? lol, i love mine...

already have a msd sci ignition setup. and im now done,,, for now i just fininshed droppin in the engine and tranny at lunch. i got to test drive it for most of the day my linkage is kinda gettofied but im waiting on the linkage setup from weber. u guys were right its alot more fun than it was,, more power and gobs more acceleration. it seem as if the carb is a lil touchy on the throttle but im fine with that.the 272 degree cam is great some one said i might have trouble idleing under 1000 but it idles fine at 500 at 400 rpms it stumbles im going to run it like this fora while and then after i get a few more bucks i'll finish setting up the nitrous oxide system, and get an expensive azz header. i wanna gets a time slip i think its about that time im hopin for solid 14s i honestly think it will. i just got lots of pep in my step for shure. that tube that comes off the back of the intake just under the carb where the brake booster hooks up, came off and i was like wtf it was running great like 5 secs ago but any way i got it back in when i found i was suckin in all kinds of fresh air.

get video of your car up now :) i wanna see a built up carb'd accord tear it up, i need some inspiration.

i'm looking for a way to get a vid now since i cant run at the local drag track(texas motorplex) my evil digital cam wont do movies just pics so im looking for someone with a digital recorder.

when are you going to go do a run?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by accord upset

already have a msd sci ignition setup. and im now done,,, for now i just fininshed droppin in the engine and tranny at lunch. i got to test drive it for most of the day my linkage is kinda gettofied but im waiting on the linkage setup from weber. u guys were right its alot more fun than it was,, more power and gobs more acceleration. it seem as if the carb is a lil touchy on the throttle but im fine with that.the 272 degree cam is great some one said i might have trouble idleing under 1000 but it idles fine at 500 at 400 rpms it stumbles im going to run it like this fora while and then after i get a few more bucks i'll finish setting up the nitrous oxide system, and get an expensive azz header. i wanna gets a time slip i think its about that time im hopin for solid 14s i honestly think it will. i just got lots of pep in my step for shure. that tube that comes off the back of the intake just under the carb where the brake booster hooks up, came off and i was like wtf it was running great like 5 secs ago but any way i got it back in when i found i was suckin in all kinds of fresh air.

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well i think 14s are out of your reach....some ppl hit 13.7 with turbo...if guess you will be lucky if you hit 16

You need to be pulling a lot more power to hit solid 14's my cars are able to just hit solid mid 14's to low 14's and thats with a shed load of head work and some good cams as well as two Weber DCOE twin chokes, power output is between 190-200 depending on camshaft i'm using and the setup on the carbs. But good news is that this is on a low compression A20A1 bottom end, new engine i'm working on will have H beam rods and higher CR ratio pistons as well as a complete custom header and exhuast system. 2.25" should be big enough for any N/A application as long as the bends are mandrel bent if not you need at least 2.5" that way the bends will only shrink to 2.25" and not hurt performance too much.

So for you to hit same times in the Accord which will weigh a little more than mine as the 2G Ludes with weight reduction and it's a coupe are a bit lighter you'd need to change to twin Webers, up compression, change fuel pump to higher rating. Then to get anything lower like really low 14's maybe high 13's you'd be looking at serious amount of headwork with stainless steel custom oversized valves all round, even better camshaft and the slickest exhaust system you can have made for a couple of thousand, combined with a fully built bottom end with forged pistons with very high CR ratio and will definately need H beam rods to last or your engine will grenade after 20k miles if your going to be revving past 7k rpm continually, my engine lasted 30k with a rpm limit of 7.5k with polished rods and balanced bottom end they are capable of revving to 8k and even more but the rods won't take it for long. Unless maybe you have the pistons pins made from titanium and forged pistons which are a bit lighter too, then with some ARP bolts the rods might hold but for $300 dollars for a set of H Beams for B18A LS motor and if your buying forged pistons i'd spend the extra $300 for piece of mind and longevity.

A Good Weber 38/38 setup should produce around 150-170bhp depending on headwork done and the CR ratio of the block. which should net you a good solid 1/4 mile time of around 15.5-16 seconds with practice you biggest problem is going to be finding traction, some fat Toyo R888 and having coilovers on the rear to jack up the back of the car with extra stiff springs should help loads if not you'll be wheelk spinning with all that torque the A20 has!! Also another good mod for 1/4 miles is the Teg gear box mod.

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Originally Posted by EX-ileAccord

pleaseeeeeeeeeeee take off the wing

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DO IT! lol nice car and good luck with the mods

get some video up man, get like a timeslip up too....

ok heres the deal i have no way to do vid unforunatly also they wont lemme run at the motorplex(local drag strip) - no valid licences right now which means also no timeslips but ive been running against 15 second cars and thats bout it some wins some loses so i figure im somewhere in the 15s now time to finish up my nos system anyone know someone selling a bottle, bottle feed lines, and 2 of the 4 way splitters and jets is what im short, i have the nozzles and the solenoids.