11" REAR rotors + Bigger Calipers

Disclaimer: This mod has not been tested on a driving car. The issue with the rattle brackets has not been worked out yet.

Ok to start off, this is what you need.

• 1988 - 1989 Accord SE-i rear disk conversion (kinda a given)
• 1988 - 1989 Acura Legend Caliper and bracket
• 1988 - 1989 Acura Legend brake pads
• 2000 Civic SI Powerslot 11" rotor Part#'s 29-900L and 29-900R (I purchased mine at www.buybrakes.com) You have to call them, because the part is not listed.

First you must modify the Legend Caliper bracket to allow for the larger rotors. I jsut used a file to take away the little bit of metal that had to be removed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/ad674206.jpg
The unmodified bracket is on the left and the filed down one on the right
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ec998eb3-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/f48efe98.jpg
before
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...f48efe98-1.jpg
After
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/ec998eb3.jpg
A little shot to show you what it looks like in the process of being modified
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/09c12e53.jpg
I am sure every setup will be jsut a little different since all parts are not made equal. I will show you how to figure out what parts of the rotor touch the bracket.
I bolted the bracket and rotor on then turned the rotor to figure out what part of the bracket touched the rotor.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/1b1f3c1c.jpg
Next you must modify the dust sheild (or completely remove it) the Legend bracket is a little larger then the Accord.
First roll the edges
Before
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/ff54f7c1.jpg
After
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/5f0c4fbc.jpg
This picture shows where it must be folded
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...5f0c4fbc-1.jpg
Continue onto next post.

Last thing you need to modify is metal brackets that keep the pads from moving back and forth. I had to remove the middle piece that hold it in place.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/61964204.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...1a737bec-1.jpg

Here is what the pad look like without the caliper.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/1a737bec.jpg

Final Product

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...SCF00022-1.jpg

thats it? all you do is blot up the caliper and put it back on the car? cool....
and now comes the important question. how much did you end up spending?

oh oh oh and what is the smallest wheel you think this will work with? 15 i presume...since thats what you have lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mkymonkey

thats it? all you do is blot up the caliper and put it back on the car? cool....
and now comes the important question. how much did you end up spending?

---

The rotors are only $100 a piece. Calipers + brackets were $15 each from the JY and new calipers are $50 a piece from autozone. + the price of the disk conversion and the pads (about to get some EBC's) .

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mkymonkey

oh oh oh and what is the smallest wheel you think this will work with? 15 i presume...since thats what you have lol

---

Yep 15's and nothing smaller.

sweet build man i will definetly look into this after finding an se-i at the jy maybe i will get lucky...

cool....now i have to just do your front disk swap and then do this one. i already have the rear swap so i just have to purchase the rest. i knew you would work it out...haha so i waited :)

you sir are a true pioneer :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Legend_master

Last thing you need to modify is metal brackets that keep the pads from moving back and forth. I had to remove the middle piece that hold it in place.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/61964204.jpg

---

Theres a problem if you do that to that clip. It will now be able to move back and froth and touch the rotor giving you an annoying grinding sound.

Other than that looks great.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by guaynabo89

Theres a problem if you do that to that clip. It will now be able to move back and froth and touch the rotor giving you an annoying grinding sound.
Other than that looks great.

---

I was thinking this also, but as I have played with it over and over, and the pieces never move, because the pads keep it stuck in place. This is something I plan on tackling after I install them on the car. If they do rub, I will have to make something up after I install them.

man looks good....i did end up spending like 300 bucks for my rear disk set up when i could of upgraded....oh well maybe when this set it is all gone il upgrade. thanks for the research maing

this will be sexy on my new rear disc setup in 1-4 weeks

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MessyHonda

man looks good....i did end up spending like 300 bucks for my rear disk set up when i could of upgraded....oh well maybe when this set it is all gone il upgrade. thanks for the research maing

---

Definitly equal to the price of nice pads and D/S Rotors.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ZackieDarko

this will be sexy on my new rear disc setup in 1-4 weeks

---

Make sure to check out those shock bushings before you install them on your car. My first set of SE-i hubs were fine, but the set pictures above had bushings that were shot.

gotchya

hey there is an se-i at my local junk yard... what all do i need to snatch off of it in order to convert my lxi... i love this setup... i want it!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hotdoghogie

hey there is an se-i at my local junk yard... what all do i need to snatch off of it in order to convert my lxi... i love this setup... i want it!

---

All you need to grab is the rear hubs themselves, the arm that runs frot he front to back of the car, the hard and soft brakes lines (I would order braided brake lines to replace the soft ones), the bracket that connect the hubs to the arm, and then all the pieces that I listed in the first post.

sick :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by thegreatdane

sick :)

---

Well, Thank you :rockon: .

Requested to have this moved from "How to" since I haven't ever actually been able to test this mod out. I'm gonna work on a bolt up option for this as well, so Ill update as I get more info.

Nice if you have the tools to do your own work.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Legend_master

I was thinking this also, but as I have played with it over and over, and the pieces never move, because the pads keep it stuck in place. This is something I plan on tackling after I install them on the car. If they do rub, I will have to make something up after I install them.

---

So seeing how old the post is, I'd assume there was not a issue with this?

My bad failed to read the 5-14 post. If you get it bolted up let me know, if not I'll work with it in about a week or two before I go to the field.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Slipup

So seeing how old the post is, I'd assume there was not a issue with this?

My bad failed to read the 5-14 post. If you get it bolted up let me know, if not I'll work with it in about a week or two before I go to the field.

---

Looking at it, the mod is very possible. Just gonna take some time, research, and some cash.

Alright thanks. Not sure how much cash I'll have left over once I finish changing some things next week. I'll try to run down to the local pick and pull and try and get at least the calipers and brackets. Once I get the rotors I'll see if I can come up with anything.

What was the issue with this mod? Why doesn't it work?

I believe the issue is with the metal pieces that hold the pads in place.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by turabaka

What was the issue with this mod? Why doesn't it work?

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Slipup

I believe the issue is with the metal pieces that hold the pads in place.

---

That is part of it, the rotor goes right to the very edge of the caliper and doesn't allow any room for the rattle bracket. I was thinking about running it without the rattle bracket in there, but I think the pad will shift around and cause problems/noises. Otherwise its almost a full bolt on application.

quick question for you Legend (its been too many years since I tried to remember) The Legend caliper on the sei bracket hits by how much?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by guaynabo89

quick question for you Legend (its been too many years since I tried to remember) The Legend caliper on the sei bracket hits by how much?

---

If you check the thread for that one, I outlined where it hits. The hub portion of the rotor contacts on the prongs(of the caliper) that come out to hold the outer pad in place, and the piston impacts the bracket itself.

i am going to jump in on this. if you need parts let me know. going to star orderingt my parts asap

one more question. why are there two different part numbers for the rotors. are the l and r because of the drill/slot pattern?


i looked these up on ebay, are all of them dual piston?
http://images.remartautoparts.com/CT...mi_Caliper.jpg
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Centr...Q5fAccessories

The legend calipers are not dual piston if that's what you're asking. They're just a bigger single piston caliper than the stock se-i caliper.

ok i kinda realized that after i searched around some pics. i am going to order the 99-00 si 11" rear powerslot rotors, if i wanted to get the matching powerslots forthe front, can i order the 99=00 si ones? i know they have the 4x100 bolt pattern. not sure if everythnig else is lined up

Yeah the rotors have different numbers cause the direction of the slots on the rotor. I'm pretty sure the front power slots are 12", so I'm not sure what caliper you plan on running in the front.

crapie, i was going to use the 90 legend rotors all around. well thise weekend ill go to the junkyard am take a closer look at some things. do both cars have the same size brake booster and master cylender. i belive the legend is a 1" i dont remember what my lxi had.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SQ is the SQUAD

crapie, i was going to use the 90 legend rotors all around. well thise weekend ill go to the junkyard am take a closer look at some things. do both cars have the same size brake booster and master cylender. i belive the legend is a 1" i dont remember what my lxi had.

---

Don't forget that legend's are five lug. So if you want to use legend rotors on the front you'll have to redrill them to 4x100

Sounds like a solid plan. I'm gonna try this setup too cause my rear rotors look tiny behind my 17's and I could damn sure use more braking power in the rear. The front lock up too quick. Btw....I found a 4 dr se-i @ a jy in st.petersburg fl. If anyone is interested pm me and I'll let you know where its @. But I got the cup holder armrest and brake prop valve that I needed out of it. I've been waiting for 6 yrs to find another se-i to get the prop valve out of it so my advice would be to get the prop valve too when pulling the rear disk setup from one.

sickest u could of got the proportion valve out of just about any 93 integra. as long as it stamped 40/40. most of them are.

the 90 legends i belive are 4x114.3 which will still have to be redrilled. i understand that. not reallt a problem.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sickest3G

Sounds like a solid plan. I'm gonna try this setup too cause my rear rotors look tiny behind my 17's and I could damn sure use more braking power in the rear. The front lock up too quick. Btw....I found a 4 dr se-i @ a jy in st.petersburg fl. If anyone is interested pm me and I'll let you know where its @. But I got the cup holder armrest and brake prop valve that I needed out of it. I've been waiting for 6 yrs to find another se-i to get the prop valve out of it so my advice would be to get the prop valve too when pulling the rear disk setup from one.

---

where is this jy and what is it called?

SQ i don't understand what you are trying to do. This mod is for the rear rotors just to clarify. You are right about the 1G legends they are 4x114, and still need to be redrilled. That is ONLY for the Front, the rear legend rotors will not work at all. They are 10.3" or something like that, I tried a combination of brackets, rotors, and calipers from many different cars and this setup was the only one that looked do-able. Oh and no clue on the booster, I would imagine it was larger, and I know for sure the later legends had a huge brake booster.

ok i was looking through my accord stuff today and my stock master cylender was a 15/16. so i am def going to try to retrofit the 90 legend brake booster, 1" master cylender, and maybe the clutch master and hydro pedal assembly.

isent this thread about building a 11" rear disc brake setup using the 90 legend set up with the power slot rotors for the 00 si? well i am trying to do the front and rear 11" so from your other thread wouldent the 11" front legen setup work also?

whilke cleaning my shed today i came accross some 2g eclipse/talon dual piston calipers i had from my old galant. i am going to go over the brackets and see if theres anything usualbe for our front setup

For front brake upgrades see this:

http://forums.honda-tekh.com/zerothread?id=2439

The front 3g Accord spindles are (I believe) essentially equivalent to the Civic EX knuckles. So to fit 11" rotors in the front you need to use the ITR type caliper/bracket/pads with redrilled 96 Prelude Vtec rotors. The ITR calipers are pretty common. Donors to look for are:
97-01 Integra R, 97-99 CL, 95-98 TL 5cyl, 92-94 Vigor, 91-97 Accord, 97-01 CRV, 95-98 Odyssey, and 97-01 Prelude.
You want the calipers marked 17CL15V and the bracket marked 23T. The 2g Legend calipers will work but need to be swapped left to right because the bleeders are upside down. Anyway it's all in the table.


Unfortunately the rears are a tougher nut to crack because the Civics and Integras use a different caliper bracket to hub bolt spacing, so the rear brake chart in that thread mostly doesn't apply. So the only known (to me anyway) upgrade option is the 1g Legend caliper + Powerslop rotors. Although I wonder if maybe a 2g Legend caliper bracket might get you a little more clearance than the 1g bracket, since the 2g Legend had 11" rear rotors instead of 10.2". IDK.


C|

I sure wish i would have known that beforehand. Well whats important is that i finally got it and even better if this 11" rotor mod works i WILL be doing this mod next. But first...

http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/y...G/IMG00088.jpg
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/y...G/IMG00084.jpg

An F250 bumped me in the rear 2 months after my engine rebuild (https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...=1#post1023276) but i got 3k for the damages so next weekend my baby will be going in for a cosmetic over haul and will be back in a fresh coat of black. The last thing I did to it was install a race cat w/ 2.25" piping to the dual canister dual 3" tips....and it sounds so mean!
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/y...3G/exhaust.jpg
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/y...G/IMG00144.jpg
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/y...G/IMG00143.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SQ is the SQUAD

sickest u could of got the proportion valve out of just about any 93 integra. as long as it stamped 40/40. most of them are.

the 90 legends i belive are 4x114.3 which will still have to be redrilled. i understand that. not reallt a problem.

---

i actually already have actual type r front calipers and brackets. i got them when i was converting my integra to 5 lug. good thing i kept them. will the frint type r setup fit 12" powerslot rotors without modification?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SQ is the SQUAD

i actually already have actual type r front calipers and brackets. i got them when i was converting my integra to 5 lug. good thing i kept them. will the frint type r setup fit 12" powerslot rotors without modification?

---

No, the front type R calipers will only work with 11" rotors.

well i wanted to do 11 and 11, i just dident want the mitch match rotors. hmmm, ill see what i can come up with

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SQ is the SQUAD

well i wanted to do 11 and 11, i just dident want the mitch match rotors. hmmm, ill see what i can come up with

---

Just get slotted rotors for the front. The powerslot rotors are just coated that color. They will look like regular metal after about 1000 miles or so. The guy at fast brakes sells a kit to make 12" up front. You could see if he would just sell you the calipers, and any brackets that are required. Not 100% sure that would even work tho.

o looked at what was supposed to be my type r calipers and brackets but the brackets where marked 25t

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SQ is the SQUAD

o looked at what was supposed to be my type r calipers and brackets but the brackets where marked 25t

---

The bracket number indicates the rotor width they were designed for. 23T would be for 23mm rotors. 25T would be for 25mm rotors. The 11" Prelude rotors are 23mm but a 25T bracket would work. The only issue is if the bracket is too wide, the pads could slip out from the bracket if they get worn down enough. But as long as you check the pads occasionally that shouldn't be a big issue.


C|

are there any non hub over rotors that are 11" 25mm wide?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SQ is the SQUAD

are there any non hub over rotors that are 11" 25mm wide?

---

Huh?

some accords take sertin rotors where the wheel hub actually mounts over the rotor. i am trying to figure out what rotor is 11", 25mm thick, that is non hub over rotor

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SQ is the SQUAD

are there any non hub over rotors that are 11" 25mm wide?

---

Not sure, but my guess is no. The 11" Prelude rotors that everyone uses for these conversions are 23mm thick. But, they should be ok with the 25T brackets.


If you want to figure out if it will be a problem here's what you can do. First measure the inside width of your brackets where the rotor would go through. My 23Ts measure out at 27mm.

Now take the minimum thickness of your rotor (the discard thickness would be safe) and add to that the thickness of the backing plates on your brake pads (add both of them). I'll be using 21mm rotors which have a discard thickness of 19mm. My brake pads have a backing plate thickness of 6.5mm, so both of them together would be 13mm.

13mm + 19mm = 32mm.

32mm is larger than 27mm, so even with the rotors at minimum thickness and the pads completely worn down to the backing plates, they still wouldn't be able to slip out of the bracket.

So if you're also using ITR calipers and the same (Autozone) pads I am, but with 23mm rotors and 25T brackets you should be fine as well. Your brackets will be 2mm wider, but so will your rotors.

And that's worst case. You shouldn't be running the pads and rotors down that much anyway.


C|

No one has mentioned if the e-brake hooks up the same as stock or if modification is necessary.

It's the same. No modifications

Update bump.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by turabaka

It's the same. No modifications

---

This is true, it's almost identical to the stock location in regards to the e-brake. .

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Legend_master

Last thing you need to modify is metal brackets that keep the pads from moving back and forth. I had to remove the middle piece that hold it in place.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/61964204.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...1a737bec-1.jpg

Here is what the pad look like without the caliper.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/1a737bec.jpg

Final Product

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...SCF00022-1.jpg

---

so the only thing stopping this project from being a solid/safe driving car is the issue with the bracket. Legend you should take it back off to grind a little more from the inside of the caliper bracket like u did to fit the 11'' rotors. Let us know if that solves that problem.Im ready to do mine! :mod:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sickest3G

so the only thing stopping this project from being a solid/safe driving car is the issue with the bracket. Legend you should take it back off to grind a little more from the inside of the caliper bracket like u did to fit the 11'' rotors. Let us know if that solves that problem.Im ready to do mine! :mod:

---

That's not a possibility, if I grind anymore on the bracket I will end up inside the chamber where the caliper slider goes into.

will spot welding the clip into place work

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SQ is the SQUAD

will spot welding the clip into place work

---

No, the problem is not that the clip moves (which it is partially suppose to do anyways). The biggest problem is that the clip contacts the outer edge of the rotor. Honestly the only solution would be to space the caliper out with a bracket, or take a MM or so off the rotors diameter.

updates?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SQ is the SQUAD

updates?

---

Sorry, but nope. I have not even had a working car to try this on. I'm sure there is a simple fix, but I don't know when I can pick this project back up.

By how much do you need to move the caliper out? If it's only 1-2mm you could simply elongate the mounting holes in the knuckle. It may sound sleazy but it would work just fine.


C|

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cygnus x-1

By how much do you need to move the caliper out? If it's only 1-2mm you could simply elongate the mounting holes in the knuckle. It may sound sleazy but it would work just fine.


C|

---

My only fear is doing anything that is irreversible, SE-i hubs are already hard to come by.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Legend_master

My only fear is doing anything that is irreversible, SE-i hubs are already hard to come by.

---

I can understand that. Elongating the holes wouldn't be irreversible though. They could pretty easily be welded back up and filed round again.


C|

Alright legend i think i have a solution. On friday i'll be buying the si rotors so what i had in mind to do was filling in the bolt holes with weld on the legend bracket and redrilling another set of holes a couple mm from the edge. I believe this would kill two birds with one stone and be easy to do cause all i'll be working with are the brackets. The first bird down would be the clip rubbing on the rotor. By creating enough space for not only the rotor to clear the clip but also allow the clip do what its inteded to do. The second bird down would be increasing the pad to rotor contact surface. I noticed that the pad was not making 100% contact on the rotor so by spacing out the bracket i will be adding contact surface. Maybe not 100% but definitely more than what showed on your pic. Legend, would you be able to take measurement of the amount of pad not touching the rotor surface? It would be helpful for determining how far from the edge i need to redrill the new holes. I would take the measurements my self on mine but i dont have the brakets or calipers yet.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sickest3G

Alright legend i think i have a solution. On friday i'll be buying the si rotors so what i had in mind to do was filling in the bolt holes with weld on the legend bracket and redrilling another set of holes a couple mm from the edge. I believe this would kill two birds with one stone and be easy to do cause all i'll be working with are the brackets. The first bird down would be the clip rubbing on the rotor. By creating enough space for not only the rotor to clear the clip but also allow the clip do what its inteded to do. The second bird down would be increasing the pad to rotor contact surface. I noticed that the pad was not making 100% contact on the rotor so by spacing out the bracket i will be adding contact surface. Maybe not 100% but definitely more than what showed on your pic. Legend, would you be able to take measurement of the amount of pad not touching the rotor surface? It would be helpful for determining how far from the edge i need to redrill the new holes. I would take the measurements my self on mine but i dont have the brakets or calipers yet.

---

I have no doubt that would solve the problem. Unfortunately I am not able to get to those parts at the present moment, so I can not take any measurements. Make sure you don't order factory SI rotors, as those are only 10.3". You need to get the 11" rotors from powerslot, or any other manufacturer that makes them.

Why wont the 10.3's work? Wouldn't that size be better for the legend brakets?...Since there's an issue with how big the 11'' are. Have you or anyone else tried the 10.3 rotors with that application?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sickest3G

Why wont the 10.3's work? Wouldn't that size be better for the legend brakets?...Since there's an issue with how big the 11'' are. Have you or anyone else tried the 10.3 rotors with that application?

---

I have already tested this out. They are 2 small, or to big depending on which bracket you use.

Is the pad rattle issue because the pads are not thick enough?

The make pad spacers or you could make some. Racers use them so to get full life out of brake pads and not have the caliper way out of the bore.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord

Is the pad rattle issue because the pads are not thick enough?

The make pad spacers or you could make some. Racers use them so to get full life out of brake pads and not have the caliper way out of the bore.

wp

---

There problem is that the pads are to big, we need a rotor that is 10.8" or 10.9". The 11" rotor is just slightly to big, and will not allow for the rattle brackets, and pads to be installed at the same time.

Ah ok check yeah not as easy. SO the pads need to be farther away from the outside edge of the rotor. Might be able to get someone to turn .100" off the outside edge of the rotor on a lathe but then it is custom rotors.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord

Ah ok check yeah not as easy. SO the pads need to be farther away from the outside edge of the rotor. Might be able to get someone to turn .100" off the outside edge of the rotor on a lathe but then it is custom rotors.


wp

---

The ideal situation would be moving the caliper out just a slight bit. That would center the pad on the rotor perfectly, and allow us to have bolt on replacement parts for the caliper, pads, and rotors. The offset is perfect.

First off, awesome work, Legend! 'Nuff props!

What if you were to modify the clip further? You could cut the top of the clip to make two flaps that would just wrap around the outside edges of the bracket to hold it in place. First, make a small cut down the center (maybe about an eighth of an inch in or more if there is enough material to allow for it), then from the end of that cut, make another cut at 90 degrees across the clip that falls another eighth or so short of each side. In effect the cuts would look like a "T" and you would end up with two flaps that you could bend around the outside of either side of the bracket to hold the clip in place. Not sure how the metal will respond to being bent like that as it may break, but it's worth a shot. I know it sounds pretty ghetto, but I think it would work in terms of preventing the clip from sliding around and contacting the rotor.

have you looked into rsx/ep3 rear calipers? i know we did a big brake rear convirsion on my buddys eg and we used those calipers

Any updates on this Legend?

Honesty no, either move the caliper out or make the rotor a smaller diameter is the only option.

alright so i have spent the past couple hours lookin for just a stock rotor...what ya got?

There are no 4x100 rear 11" rotors, your only bolt on option is the powerslot rotors. Unless there is something in the foreign market I'm not familiar with.

maybe one that is the same size just different bolt pattern. ill redrill them. ya got to remember i have 3 cars hahah so droping $100 for each rotor is somewhat crazy for me. i wound up putting the sei calipers back on so i could drive but the ebrake part is froze up. i know where another car is that has alot of upgraded parts on it is, so im going monday to check on that.

Honestly the only ones I know of are on more expensive cars. I believe some of the later RL, and TLs had 11" rear rotors. You could just run modified legend calipers on the se-i brackets. Otherwise you might try contacting fastbrakes to see what kind of info he can give you.

..

So what is the solution????

..

..