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Just bought a 89 Honda Accord 2 Door Hatch-LX-i 5 speed and I am looking for advice on how to make my stock factory A20A3 engine perform at its best.
Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. I'm not looking to do an engine swap right now, just want to get the most out of the factory setup I already have.
Jim C.
go find rjudgey and talk to him. tell him your budget and he'll tell you how much power you can go with.
Let me guide you in the right directions.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=4
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14843
The above two links are just preliminary threads to give you a start on what you are looking for. I suggest that you 'search' your inquiries and read all the threads carefully. This forum has been around for a long time and you will find anything and everything you are thinking of.
are you trying to build the engine for the streets or race track?Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
either way, you will have to spent a lot of money.
start with obvious exhaust, headers, colt air intake. after that you can go to perfromance camshaft, ported head with ported intake manifold and TB. bigger injectors.
that can only do so much. If you want even more power, convert to OBD1. People see huge HP gains after convertion and tunning.
that is a hot car...the 89 lx-i and its a hatchback....man....post some pics when you have a chance
This will be my daily driver. I just want to do what I can to the existing A20A3 to help it out. I am sort of looking for bolt on mods to help increase the power but not kill my gas milage. No major overhauls yet. Engine has high miles, but still runs great.
Will do. I should have some pics of it to post up after this weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by shepherd79
I sort of noticed the 2 door hatches are not that common in the pic sections. I have the one I am going to make my daily driver plus two more I am going to have for parts. All of them are rust free Alabama cars too.
I may end up with a 4th one also if everything goes right.....:)Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
well, no one makes a direct bolt-on cold air intake for our cars. weapon-r makes a short ram, but it's overpriced. most members seem to have good results with a 5g accord cai or making their own. those fit the easiest without any other modding besides opening the hole in the fender. the 2g integ one needs the battery moved a little. as far as exhaust, pacesetter is the only company that still makes a header for our car. if you can find one, there's one by dc sports, but it'll be overpriced and there's no real evidence actually comparing the two. you can also get a pacesetter catback exhaust. only thing some people say is that you have to get a different muffler if you want it to sound good. but it's a nice sized exhaust and for the price really isn't bad. and you can find a high-flow cat from pacesetter, random technologies, etc. most of the time, you really only need the flange to bolt up w/ the downpipe and you can put damn near any cat on it.
well since it is your daily driver i would recomend doing this:
Get CAI. you can get 5th gen accord one. they fit nice. all you have to do is make a whole in a fender bigger. I have one that i am trying to sell.
Get headers and full cat back from ebay. Pasessetter makes them. They are affordable and easy to install.
do some tune up. Fuel filter, spark plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor.
You can also upgrade the Stock coil with aftermarket one for hotter and stronger spark.
That should give you nice power gains without loosing gas mileage. you may actually see some mileage gains from that. I know i did.
Thanks. I will look around on Ebay and see what I can come up with from PaceSetter for the header.
Exhaust is no problem, since my best friend runs an Exhaust shop locally.
Converter? Think I'll just do without for now........Alabama, no inspections....
you know.....:)Quote:
Originally Posted by snoopyloopy
yeah also you can get a Cam from delta or colt...
If you still got the CAI in a week or so, I will PayPal you $40.00 for it. Just spent all my extra this week on a Z28 factory hood scoop and rear 3 piece spoiler for my Drag Car.
Lets say I install a cold air intake, header and have 2.5" exhaust ran, no CAT and a free flow muffler.Quote:
Originally Posted by shepherd79
If I did a cam upgrade, what would I want to run with this setup?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
Welcome to the Forum Big Daddy JC from north central ALA-Bam-A
you got yourself a pretty cool car there. And you have a drag car as well, several members do that too.
As far as what you asked, Shepherd79 nailed it with the tune up stuff. You should know there is no real big HP gain with any single bolt on mod, a lot of seat of the pants dyno improvements but not a real big difference in how fast how quick. Computer mods to get the most out of what you got is the best advice, obdI conversion. Turbo setups are the best mods. The catback exhaust will make the car a little quicker feeling.
I recomend 2.25" piping. too big of exhaust can lower the back pressure too much. our engines need some back pressure.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
If you want to have same or better gas mileage stay with stock cam. if you want power go with delta 272 cam or bigger.
I have Colt stage 2 cam, that is i am selling. $135 shipped. I also have test pipe 2.25" if you want to remove the cat. it will bolt up to pasessetter header downpipe and cat back system. asking $35 shipped.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
yeah the cam upgrade would help you alot if you have all thoes mods.
Thanks man, I really like the looks of this 89 hatch. Sort of reminds me of the 86 Yota GT-S hatch I sold a guy last year.
The obd 1 conversion is something I have saw on several postings so far. I am interested in this conversion, since, as you said, it will probably give me the most gain for the car. Where can I find all the specifics on this conversion?
Yea, this season I will be running a 79 Camaro for Drag Racing. I have also kept it street legal for playing around too during the week.
Okay, looks like this is probably what I need to do to my car to start with.Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
Header.
2.25 exhaust from header back with good flow muffler.
Obd 1 Conversion.
Cold Air Intake.
Stock Cam.
This engine shows over 300,000 miles, so its probably not got much longer on it anyways. I dont plan to use it for a drag car anyways, just my daily driver.
Thanks to all for the info. I really appreciate it guys.
Jim C.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
also like Shepard said....do a tune up on it....get some nice spark plugs and wires...change the oil and tranny oil....and best of luck my friend. :thumbup:
converting to OBD1 is not that easy. it will be a lot of custom work, about 100% of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
here is the thread that started https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18160
doing your part for global warming eh? :welcome: :DQuote:
Converter? Think I'll just do without for now........Alabama, no inspections....
you know.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by frantik
hondas run clean...hehe:bandance:
Well, actually, since I have not heard the car run or driven it yet since purchased, and with it showing about 360,000 miles on the odometer, I am figuring on it being a skeeter sprayer anyways. Raw oil dumped into a $$$ High flow cat would just be a waste of money since it will stop up quite rapidly from excessive oil.....:)
First off, I got to get a new fuel pump in it so I can see if the motor is good or needs replaced. Bought it depending on the main relay being bad, but we replaced it first thing and it still will not start. Jumped the plug and the fuel pump still wont run, so we are planning on swapping out the tank/pump and trying it again.
I'll probably focus on the exhaust side of things after I get all other upgrades and tune up completed, and all parts worn out replaced like front axles, rotors, etc...
Quote:
Originally Posted by frantik
i was just giving ya a hard time :) i recommend slapping a CAI on there for an easy performance boost :)
go w/ a higher flowing aftermarket pump. you probably won't even be maxing out the stock pump, but if you get real heavy into your modding, it's a nice bit of added security.
D o o r S l a m m e r s Rule!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
got slicks
Hey, dont worry about the 360K miles on the Honda, they go and go if they were maintained well. You may not have to replace as much as you think, hopefully.
still a felony, no matter where you're located. if you're in the US and your car was originally equipped with a cat, it must remain intact and in working order.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
btw, burning oil won't do the amount of damage you expect. it will still take years to clog up a high-flow cat with a smoking engine.
DP. mods, please fix.
Its all good man. I was thinking the CAI would be a good thing also.
According to Al Gore on PPV, we are already too late to worry about Global Warming anyways...........:rockon:
Quote:
Originally Posted by frantik
I am hoping the miles were mostly highway miles. Its a one owner car and the driver was the wife of the guy I bought it from. I dont think its been abused.
Right now I get to wait a while on a replacement title cause the guy did a no-no on signing it wrong and now I got to wait for a replacement before I can even get it transfered to me.
I am going to focus first on just getting the car road worthy again and dependable. Then I will start looking at mods once I drive it a while to see that its going to be OK.
I have also found a 89 Prelude SI with B20A and 5 speed. Car is trashed, but engine/tranny/wiring stuff is all still there. $100.00...:) If its still there, I plan to buy it also for a future swap to the Accord.
Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
You Mean the Water Pump?:huh:
Quote:
Originally Posted by snoopyloopy
I think he was following the Fuel Pump dicussionQuote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
yup fuel pump...hehe
don't bother with that engine. It won't bolt up. you have to make custom engine mounts, so much more.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
save $100 and find something better.
OK. I'll pass on the Prelude deal then and put the money towards the parts for a good tune up. Timing Belt, Water Pump, Plugs, Wires, Dist. Cap and Rotor Button for my A20.
Thanks for the info.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shepherd79
Where are you finding all these cars? Any chance you could find me a 2nd gen Prelude with a clean rust free body? Or maybe a 3rd gen Accord with 2dr or hatch? I have a totally rebuilt drivetrain in my 87 Prelude and I don't expect the body to last much more than a year or two so I want to find a good body to swap to.
C|
Quote:
Originally Posted by cygnus x-1
:welcome: to cali land of the rust free cars.
Well, I do have a 89 Accord 2 Dr. LX-i rust free body with clean Alabama title. Upper ball joints are gone, and it was an auto tranny car.
No motor, or trans in it now. Make me an offer on it and it could be yours...:)
Its really in too good of shape to just part out anyways.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cygnus x-1
Got any pictures of that LX-i? I would have to swap in the pedals from a manual. It's also FI which means the fuel system isn't compatible with my Weber, but that can be dealt with.
C|
Quote:
Originally Posted by cygnus x-1
put that engine of yours under injection....then you can do a OBD1 swap and tune it to the limit
I should have pics of all my cars come Monday. Shoot me an email at [email protected] and I can send you some pics Monday of next week.Quote:
Originally Posted by cygnus x-1
If he wants the car, it currently still has a recently rebuilt A20 motor/auto tranny in it and could be bought with the car if the price is right. Motor runs great, auto tranny might could be flushed and fixed. Its the one that quits pulling when the fluid heats up.
We will let it go either way. Just the body or with motor/tranny still in the car.
My buddy is going today to purchase another 89 2 door hatch with a bad engine. We were planning on using the engine from this car in the one we are buying.
Counting my 89 Hatch, his 89 Hatch, and the one we are purchasing today, we have three good 2 door hatch cars with good titles. None with rust.
Not sure, but I think the one we are buying today may be another 5 speed car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
Yep ,, he's hookedQuote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
Yeah, I'll email you. I don't need another motor, just a body. I would really rather find another Prelude but the 2/3dr Accords are almost the same. And parts are easier to find for Accords.
But I'm not giving up my Weber! Not yet anyway. FI is obviously superior but Webers are simple, easy to tune, and work great. Respect the Weber. :)
C|
Quote:
Originally Posted by cygnus x-1
nice try to find a 2d hatch back
Got pics of the car last night. I can get a clear title on it also if you are interested in it.
Interior has the normal wear and tear. All the glass in the car is good. Needs passenger front corner marker light and driver side rear tail light. Hood has a small dent on passenger side but not anything major.
I'll email you pics of the car in the morning when I get to work and check my messages.
I'll need to have some advance time if you plan to come get the car soon cause we have to still pull the motor/tranny and send off for the title.
Usually takes about 2 to 3 weeks on the title to come back.
Need a $$$ offer before we can make any kind of deal though. This car as it sits right now will start up and run. Just needs the auto trans flushed and cleaned and will probably be drivable again. Its an 87 Accord LX-i 2 door hatchback. No Rust.
I also have an 89 LX-i 2 door hatchback auto car that runs/drives but engine smokes really bad. No title, cause it was abandoned vehicle we bought from local wrecker service. I was planning on using it for parts on my 89 since the interior is brown and matches mine. This car can be bought also though if any of you guys are interested in it. Just make $$$ offer and we can go from there. No title is available for it though. Have pics of it also if anyone is interested.
Where exactly can I go to find all the details I will need to do this OBD1 swap to my 89 LX-i? I always do all my own work to my vehicles, so I just need the specs/directions and parts needed for the swap and I will do it all myself.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
I believe it is here under 3geez, technicals or how to. do a search in those areas for OBD1.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
That body hatchback sounds interesting, we have dirt track racing here and there is a fwd 4cyl class, one of the members here has a car and I am working on a car now that may be too small for me to use by the time the roll cage is finished
We got two good bodies. One with a title to be street driven, one without a title, not stolen. Abandoned Vehicle. Both of these can be bought if you want to email me your email, I can send you pics of the one with no title and you can shoot me back an offer on the car. Its complete. Runs/drives but motor smokes real bad.
I searched but could not find the details on how to convert a 3rd gen Accord EFI over to OBD1. There is a lot of general stuff on codes and such for OBD1 and 2 but I could not really find good details on what all it actually takes to do this conversion.Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
Any details or links to this would be greatly appreciated.
Sent you pics of the 87 2 door hatch Accord this morning. Let me know something back soon with an offer.Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
PM'd you on the 87 Accord 2 door hatch with title.Quote:
Originally Posted by cygnus x-1
Got my 89 Accord Hatch running finally. This car had not been driven since 2002, so we ended up replacing so far the gas tank, fuel pump, fuel injectors and alternator to get it up and going again. Luckily, we had a donor car handy for all the parts needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
Now all I have to do is replace the following stuff to feel good about putting it back on the road again.
Any suggestions on the best parts to use on my list below?
Timing Belt
Water Pump
Flush Cooling System
Plugs
Wires
Dist. Cap and Button
Front CV axles-Left and Right
Brake pads and Rotors Turned
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
congrats....i would replace everything with Honda OEM stuff for timing belts water pump. any coolant will do...just make sure its 50/50...NGK plugs and wires, OEM honda cap and rotor. look into axles...i got mine for 89 both of them.....get some OEM pads or aftermarket
Got all my stuff done now except for the two front axles and brakes. Looks like I should be driving her to work next week if all goes well this weekend..:)
Got me some nice looking Ultra 15 x 7.5 wheels to go on it also now. Just got to figure out what tire size I can run without scrubbing. Car is still stock height, and for now I plan to keep it at the stock height.
Any suggestions on what the max tire size I need would be for a 15" wheel?
I need to tag this topic, there is a lot of good info here I can use myself.
OBD-1 Conversion Threads
OBD-1 Thread 1
OBD-1 Thread 2
Glad to see this thread is still getting use. Got my Accord running last weekend and I love it. These hatch cars are cool.
First day I drove mine to work, I had a guy come in wanting to buy it....:wtf:
For those interested, if your 89 Accord has no suspension drop on it, you can run a 205/60-15 tire without clearance issues. You can also run a 235/60-15 on the rear if you never plan on having anyone ride in your back seat. They tend to scrub just a little.......:)
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...rdHatch003.jpg
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...rdHatch002.jpg
Good info, I just put those on mine but had some 195/50-15 laying around so I put them on the front. It looks kind of strange , the 205 fit real nice though. I never thought you could use 235's, but then I have a 4dr sedan not a hatch. I scrape already going in my driveway, so air struts are an interesting option for me, though I have not seen much talk about those here.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
Do you still have the extra hatch for sale, SinisterFuzzy was asking about that. We decided that transporting the car that distance made it just over budget, the other member wound up getting a prelude for dirt track.
Still got the Gold one with no title. Runs and drives, but engine smokes real bad and its an automatic. It could be fixed, but the title is questionable as to getting a replacement. It was an abandoned vehicle. I may end up using the rear hatch off it, cause mine has a large dent in the driver side corner. Sold the Gray one with good title to a guy that needed a motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
i run 195-60-15 falken tires on my car and its dropped 1.5 inch...no rubbing or anything. but 235...that is a lil too wide.
205/60-15's good. 235/60-15's bad. I plan to run the 205/60-15's front and rear. Not going to lower mine either cause rural travel on Alabama country roads daily to work and back will remove anything lower than 3" above ground level. Bent rims and busted low profile tires are two things I plan to stay away from. Already had my share and its not worth the repeated damage.
I may upgrade my struts and possibly try and stiffen up my springs, but thats about all I want to do suspension wise with my Hatch.
This car was a one owner vehicle when I got it. Its got over 380,000 miles showing on it right now and the motor and drivetrain are still like new. Car pulls any hill in 5th with no lugging, even with the 205/60 tires on 15" wheels.
Already had two guys trying to buy or trade me out of this car after less than 7 days back on the road, but I told them both NO. I finally have a car like no one else in my town, which for me is practically a miracle.
Next thing she gets is a RADIO. Its really a drag driving 45 min. to work and 45 min. home every night with NO TUNES.......:sad2:
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
Good Looking hatch for that kinda mileage! :thumbup:
if you are looking for a short ram look on ebay under 87 prelude same motor and they make stuff for the car.
ok so im still trying to debate what with i wanna do with my car...... anyways was thinking of just leaving the stock engine in it. I got about 1000 dollars atm to put into performace. so its a 88 accord dx
Whats the most perforamce im going to be able to get out of this car without changing the engine
Get a webber, pacesetter header, pacesetter exhaust, GE cam gear and Delta camshaft.
Don't forget a jet kit for that Weber. It will need some tuning for optimal performance.
C|
I know its going to be a little more trouble, but I would rather go ahead and set up with a complete cold air intake. What is the best year model to interchange and work with our 89 EFI Accords?Quote:
Originally Posted by raven100112
Hey, you still got the 5th gen. Accord CAI for sale? If so, shoot me back a price including shipping it to me at zip 35033 Alabama.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shepherd79
sorry it got sold long time ago. you can get them on ebay cheap.
or you can build it yourself for about the same amount of money.
What years would work the best if I bought one off Ebay? I can live with cutting a hole out larger.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shepherd79
Dang, I got to be losing my mind, but I just bought myself another Honda.
1991 Honda Accord Station Wagon. Engine making noise, clear title, automatic trans. Clear coat on top of car chalking, but other than that it looks pretty good. Bought it for $150.00.
Did I get ripped? Car shows 167K miles. I have not saw many of these wagons around either, so I thought it would make a nice addition to my Hatchback collection........:)
I used a CAI from a 90-93 integra. My cardomain has some pics of it.
from what i heard the 94-97 accord CAI fit
Thanks, nice ride also. Not looking to do the short ram intake though, I plan to run the full length Cold Air setup. Short Ram Intakes still pull hot air from the engine bay. Cold Air Intakes pull ambient outside air into the intake for a cooler mix. You just have to watch out for standing water on the roads....
Quote:
Originally Posted by LiTtLe xOx BitT
Yep, thats what I am thinking also. 94-97 5th Gen Accord CAI. I'll post back my findings after I give it a try.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
I dont have a short ram anymore, you must not have looked far enough in the pics, here it is http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2110099/3Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
Sweet. Checked it out. So all you had to do was move the battery towards the center more?
I'll see what there is out on Ebay right now. This one looks to be a pretty nice fit on your car.....:rockon:Quote:
Originally Posted by LiTtLe xOx BitT
Hatchies = FTW!!!
You can either move the battery an inch or 2 or just notch out the battery tray a little.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
Oh damn that car is clean! And for a white car too. I'm glad you're enjoying it. You make me miss my hatch.
Disregard this. I decided to keep the Hatch and the 4th Gen. Accord Wagon. Cant stand the thought of selling the Hatch now that I have been driving it.
It just plain kicks butt......
Too hard for you?
DAMN! that ride is HOTTT!!!
Nah, I just need more room, plus my 91 Honda LX I just bought is also a Hatch, but its just got 4 doors to boot.......:) Plus its also already OBD 1 and has the 2.2 engine.......:rockon:
Quote:
Originally Posted by LiTtLe xOx BitT
89 accord lx i know you have seen this a million times so here goes anyways. just bought 89 lx-carbed-cable tranny of course. motor is about dead. best bang for the buck which way should i go? motor swap and then which one? or buy replacement and build it? any help would sincerly be appreciated. switched from 4g to 3g and my first 3g build. so please any help i could get would help out alot. i thank you all for your time and look forward to the build and posting before and after pics . thanks
I know that post wasn't directed at me, but allow me to be the first to tell you what everyone else is going to anyway.
If you want bang for buck you should not be tuning a 3rd gen Accord.
And both options are equally expensive.
If you're just looking for a fun street car, keep the stock engine, get a weber, cam, full exhaust (header, cat, exhaust) and you'll probably be happy with it. If you need more than just some pickup, you'll want to convert to fuel injection and then turbo. IMO that's cheaper than swapping an engine, although not necessarily easier. Engine swapping has it's own hassles, though, because you will have to fabricate just about everything involved (mounts, axles, etc.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by riceslicer
bang for the buck is in the eye of the beholder so what ever you want to do, do it. Just do the research first... so you'll see whats involved in each of your choices and what you can do with your available knowledge and resources to save you time and money, because a lot of things become cheaper and more feasable if you do most of the work yourself.
One of the ten commandments from the Divine book of 3geezlish:thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by A20A1
:werd:Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
I just try to make sure we don't have unfinished projects cause by people thinking that tuning a 3G is going to be kittens and dildoes.
I meant rainbows!
Well, decided to keep my Hatch and the 4th Gen. Accord Wagon.
Now I got some questions on what I need to do next. Car is running great.
I now need to know what bolt on stuff I can get to make my car keep up with my son.
We just put a B18 swap in his 93 Honda Civic Hatch with hydraulic 5 speed tranny setup.
What can I do to my 2.0 Fuel Injected 5 speed car to make it keep up with my sons Civic. I am talking about using my 2.0 SOHC engine. No engine swaps, just bolt on mods.
I am already in process on getting the CAI, so what else is there that can be done. Oh yea, I am currently getting 34 mpg with the car, so I would like to keep it up around 28 mpg at least even with mods.
In response to the guy posting about upgrades on his carbed Accord. Get FI, and then work from there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
you wont be able to keep up with just bolt ons...you need an engine rebuild with high performance stuff.
Well, thats a bummer. Is the Civic body lighter? I had a 92 Teg 4dr. with B18 and 5 speed and this Accord Hatch seems to have a lot more take off than the Integra did. I know the B18 has a twin cam setup, but what makes it so much better than the 2.0 SOHC's?
With my stock 14" wheels my cars is geared so that its running 2500 rpm's at 60 mph on the dot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
that's what working to get there too...but i'm planning on eventually going with a nitrous setup...model my car after k-mod's from back in the day
The Civic body is lighter.
gonna be tuff to pass a B18 civic
hatchbacks are pretty light compared to the other 3gen Accords
You could swap the close gears out of the Integra 5 speed
any little thing that you can do will help, lighten up the car as much as you can, and put some lead wieght in the civic wheh nobody is looking
I think I figured out how to smoke the Civic. I'll just use my 1979 Camaro and put him in his place....:kekeke:
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
woot american power
Sadly, this will only be a short lived victory over the Civic though, because I will be helping him drop a 450HP 383 Chevy Stroker engine down in a 1980 Nissan 280Z 2+2 car as our next project. Got a feeling the Nissan will then have a slight HP/Weight advantage over my 400 small block powered 79 Camaro........:rant:
Although, I am sure he is going to have some traction problems/breakage to start with............:)
Anyone with a Accord Hatch ever had to remove their rear hatch?
I need to replace mine and started looking last night, and I could not find an easy way to get to the hinge bolts/brackets?
Anyone tell me where exactly these guys are located? I have just about decided to just put some doggone bondo on my hatch instead of replacing it since it looks like its going to be a real pain to swap them out.
:rofl: So trueQuote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
build a four link, use fox body chassis (mustang)Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
Every 280 I driven was hard to keep in a streight line too. sounds like fun though
I'll buy your hatch, and trade you my sedan...I want EFI
What kind of deal you offering exactly?:huh:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Venyix
I'll trade you my sedan and some cash for the hatch, my sedan is in pretty good condition 5speed carb'd...I want your hatch.
Awww I want one of those o bad. I love that body style!Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
Yeah I've switched mine out. If you open the hatch all the way up look at the top of the hatch undermeath it and you will see two bolts with plates I think unscrew them and it come right off. You will need 2 people to do this though.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyJC
How much cash we talkin along with the sedan, and is the sedan a 2 dr. or 4 dr? Send me some pics if you got them to [email protected] and let me check it out, or post some out on the board here.
I am waiting on my title to come back right now in my name, so I might be interested in dealing with you on it since I got to come up with funding for my 91 LX Wagon project that needs an engine and some body parts. We could meet up at the Tenn./Alabama line on I-65 at the Nasa Rocket Rest area to do the deal if your offer is something I can work with.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Venyix
