http://a992.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...6e711f103f.jpg
i need to beat it it is an acura integra with a b18 block and an b16 intake manifold thanks
-mike
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http://a992.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...6e711f103f.jpg
i need to beat it it is an acura integra with a b18 block and an b16 intake manifold thanks
-mike
You expect to beat it with a stock A20A3? Good luck.
add more green paint!!
Not gonna happen. He has a sweet block/head combo PLUS all bolt ons vs your A20 with a few bolt ons that are actually available for it.
not a chance. you need something like this maybe
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54276
:Owned::Owned::Owned:Quote:
Originally Posted by A18A
bolt on some pistons, a nice cam, a nice intake manifold, next bolt on a nice turbo kit, and then you can go all out and bolt up a bottle.
leys just say no amount of bolt ons besides a well done turbo set up is gona beat that unless he miss shifts or blows his shit up during the race, ill just come out and say ur screwed buddy
cut his fuel lines when he's not looking :kekeke:
turbo is the way
Quote:
Originally Posted by gfrg88
Um, you just don't "bolt on some pistons"
turbo or engine rebuild with high CP ftw
Hmmm, well you'd have to have full exhaust system with S&S Header with modded downpipe to 2.25" from 2", full mandrel bent 2.25" system, camshaft with at least 280 degrees duration, pair of Weber 45 DCOE's, nice inlet manifold from me to fit ;0), and a NOS kit for webers with a shot of 50bhp to it. That would get you about 225bhp which would be enough to beat the B18 if you shed a load of weight out of yours complete stripping of inside. But to be honest your clutch will die instantly so you'd need to get a clutchnet flywheel and clutch kit to handle that lot. So if you have spare $6-8k to spend on the above your okay if you say you've got $1000 to do it with as well with just normal bolt ons you can buy from mail order boy ricer shops then buddy you need mental help and better find another forum to hang out on. Or better still by some lessons in engine modifications and car engineering cause you have a lot of shit to catch up on!!!
A20's are great engines for a lot of different things turbo or N/A but the basics thatyou get are very difficult to get much more than 150bhp tops, but with a few nice parts and some really good headwork a A20 could whoop a B18 or K20's arse into touch as long as it's in a nice light body. At the end of the day a fully built wel designed A20 is allways going to beat a midly modded B18/K20 but theres no point thinking about beating a fully prepped B18 or any other newer generation honda engine as they will always be more powerfull not by much but enough and it will be easier for them to get the power as they have much more aftermarket support, our engines have very little but with the research we all have done and what parts we can have custom made or used from other honda engines we can get very respectable power outputs from ET/A20/B20A engines.
Well I'm glad you stopped me when you did rjudgey...I was just about to say the exact same thing (lamo).
It's nice seeing that car in my driveway everyday. :rockon:Quote:
Originally Posted by reanimator420
So many people with no faith......
What do you suggest he bolts on to beat that set-up?Quote:
Originally Posted by PearlDrummer00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Estimated Prophet
NOS:)
Yeah then he should race the guy to the repair shop to get it rebuilt after the shot it would take.Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
Quote:
Originally Posted by Estimated Prophet
dude our engines are A20s.....im sure our engines could take a 25 or a 35 shot every once in a while.
is that a real ls/vtec, b18c1 or b18c5, or is it just a vtec valve cover on a regular b18a/b with b16 im? if it's vtec, you're with out a chance. he's putting out in the same neighborhood of power that the fellows w/ the openloop coupe were putting out in hp and around the stock a20a3 numbers in torque. and that's if he were stock. he's not. looks like he has a nice set of mods going there, so you have no chance. not unless you interpret "bolt-ons" to mean turbo + obd-1 or a big shot of nos.Quote:
Originally Posted by mike10562004
My words "O Fuck im screwed" um actually im thinking about buying an wrecked s2000 and fixing it up its $5300 and the guys kinda old but yeah it only has damage to the right fender and door so im thinking about buying it over the summer if i can save enough
Get some slicks, strip out as much as you can from the car and 100shot of nitrous. That might work as long as you got a tow truck number handy lol
do it. that's a good price, considering the cheapest s2000's are still averaging about $14,000 or so. hopefully, the damage is only to the fender/door and won't be too expensive and it should be worth it. but keep in mind that you can't really go the bolt-on path with the s2000 that you do on a civic. the s2000 is already so highly tuned that the bolt-ons should come last. do stuff first like some 4.66 (i think) rear-end gears, cams, head work. then the bolt-ons will actually make a noticeable difference. comptech makes supercharger kits for it too, and greddy makes a turbo kit. sounds like you want a fast car with some aftermarket support, so s2000 might be your car.Quote:
Originally Posted by mike10562004
tell him to give u 100 car links and u might consider it hahahahah
Too bad a 35 shot won't be nearly enough to beat that thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
For the amount you'd have to spend, you may as well get a new car.
^^^Quote:
Originally Posted by speedpenguin
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedpenguin
he would not be driving a 3 gee if he had money. lol some times i even laugh at my self...trying to make a late 80s honda accord "fast" but hey at least i do it in style.
hey, it won't be blisteringly quick, but they can have a little get-up-and-go. but like you said, you did it yourself. so it may not be able to run sub-8 second quarters, but you built it, not bought it.Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
In all honesty if your serious about beating him you probably can or come damn close to doing so and then you can be proud that your car with no aftermarket support could keep up or even beat a car with millions of available parts. To do so you will need to do some serious mods, which will consist of a turbo build and to make the car as light as possible and remove the A/C, C/C maybe P/S, remove the trunk liner, get a C/F hood, maybe take out the back seat the day of the race. Weight reduction for the most part is free, minus the C/F hood. A rebuild and turbo setup will cost around 3K, so to be able to beat that car you need to put about 5K into yours. Remember since we have no support for parts it will cost you more money to make your car fast then it cost him, but you will have something more unique. Then again you could always do free weight reduction, basic bolt-ons and a bad ass nitrious setup if you dont care about blowing your motor and just want to win. You can get a nice kit off of ebay for a few hundred and you will spend like $400-$600 on a I/H/E/ camgear. All i can say is that if your serious about it then start reading up on the forced induction section and go get a motor and start building.
I like to throw down the "not worth it" line because if you're modding a 3Gee, you're doing it for fun (and pride) and not because it's easy. Even the poor ones could easily trade their 3Gee for something with more power but a lower resale value.Quote:
Originally Posted by snoopyloopy
Sounds dumb after I switched to the Civic camp, but what can I say, I like the small cars and even a 3Gee is too big for me now. I'm in the same boat as you guys, it's all about what you like, not what makes the best performance choice.
yeah idk someone one here maybe got mad and stomped it when i was comming out of toco bell lol but yeah it looked stock besides what looked to be a m1 muffler well he stomped it and i pulled up beside him but yeah so i backed off cuz i was allmost on empty, 30lbs make the gas gauge go in the negitives, and it was ALSO right beside the sheriffs department so i wasent about to risk it being they just bought a POS! dodge charger with a push bar on the front which NC law phrobits them from using it so its funny its like having turbo in ur trunk and it not even hooked up POINTLESS! but yeah ill prob. go tell him to hold it for an extra 250 but yeah thanks
-mike
and yeah if i had major money no offense but i dont think i would drive my 3gee besides work but thats beside the point i love her lol
if thats a low mod LS/Vtec in a Teg, its probably a mid-low 14 sec car. On an otherwise stock but healthy A20 you should be able to beat him with about 10-11psi boost on a good setup with maybe some drag radials. My friend with his 96 civic sedan (LS/Vtec, weight reduction, header, cams, CTR pistons 12.6:1 CR, CAI, custom tune etc) was still chasing my tailights even with much better 60ft times than me, i kept blowing him away at an average of 3/4 sec per pass in the 1/4 and usually at least 5 mph. HE finally put that motor in a CRX and borrowed my drag slicks, and he cant touch my trap speeds even though hes pulling 12.8s in it, but i never got to run the accord on the drag slicks, just street tires... So my accord was worth a very conservative 12.5 at 110-112 mph on the stock engine but we never got to run it on the slicks after blowing a turbo and then later on having oil pressure /bottom end bearing problems... so the best we have on tape is 13.7 @105mph on STREET TIRES (195/60/14 all seasons yo) with serious traction issues (tirespin to about 65mph-70mph) 2.4-2.6 60fts. If i could have pulled a 1.8 60ft on the drag slicks it would have gone easy 12.5s
grand idea. make the 3g your daily driver and buy something else if you really want to be quick. a dsm is a nice money pit for that purpose.Quote:
Originally Posted by mike10562004
gah i bought an CAI filter no pipe gah it worked WONDERS i would have paid 400.00 for it if it costed that much but it only costed 35.00 so its prob the best upgrade i have ever done!!! i was very suspisious of the cai theory thinking it was like some side effect of rice posioning but damn it works GREAT
you oughta saw the shiz that came out of the old filter and the damn intake manifold was clogged with oil so i used some carb cleaner
if YOU DONT HAVE A CAI I WOULD ADVISE YOU TO GET ONE!
You can mod the throttle body, knife edge the inside of the TB opening, smooth it all out inside and polish, then remove the butterfly screws and grind out the screw hoels a little on the spindle and replace with countersunk ones and grind the screw ends flush underneath the spindle. May not seem alot but it helps a little, adding the exhaust manifold and 2.25" main pipe to the manifold and then 2.25" system all the way back will help too, mild camshaft, 4th Gen 2.2l map sensor, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, nology spark plugs, some good leads, new uprated coil, new rotor and cap, maybe some new Accell injectors that are matched, remove the head, shave some of the surface have new performance valve seats cut, modify the exhaust ports to flow better maybe big valve conversion if you have a few extra dollars to throw at it, have the inside of the inlet manifold sand blasted and cleaned up, and thats about it really for reasonably easy mods and that should get you around 150-170bhp depending on what you do to the head and how well it's done!! Then maybe think about transmission mods, highly recommend you go with clutchnet flywheel and clutch kit and then maybe think about 1st Gen Teggy hybrid gearbox to getting faster excelleration, short shift kit maybe, some really good tyres wide too 205 with some really nice light rims 15" with some light weight wheel nuts would do with say 205/50/15 with some semi slicks like Toyo R888 or yoko equivalent. And having the suspension sorted out so you don't loose grip on the fronts higher at the back and stiffer springs all round preferably more at the back than normal will help. All of this will get you a bit closer to beating the Teg but you'd have to put the car on extreme diet still as well so no 15" subs in boot or any speakers nothing just one light weight racing seat for you! Carbon fibre bonnet will help, maye even think about junking the windows and reaplcing all with fixed lexan and gutting all the metal and electrics in the doors. You'll be suprised howmuch weight you can save and the difference it makes, another good one is bin all the mirrors inside and out and replace with light weight racing ones thats a good few kilos straight away!! remove the rear hatch gas shocks, the rear sway bar not needed in straight line drag racing just added weight, rear wiper mechanism, take out one of the front ones maybe do single wiper conversion, remove spare wheel and tool kit and run that ultraseal tyre sealant or carry couple of cans of tyre puncture repair sealant, removing A/C system, P/S system and convert to manual, any odd bolts and brackets that aren't essential remove, everythign and anything you can get out. Put it all in a big box then weigh it you'll be gobsmacked!! You can allways put it back in afterwards!! You'll stop quicker, corner better, and accellerate faster top speed won't be much better but thats not your goal.
You, sir, are hardcore.Quote:
Originally Posted by rjudgey
only way i like it :)
thats why hes the lord of NA accords lolQuote:
Originally Posted by speedpenguin
You should make a guide on that t-body mod you mention.
Holy.....
:jaw::eek5::omg::rockon::bow: HOTQuote:
Originally Posted by rjudgey
I know, right? I'm going to apply a lot of that advice and apply it to my Civic, because I want it to be faster but I am flat broke right now. Plus I don't want to sacrifice my lovely 41 MPGQuote:
Originally Posted by AccordEpicenter
so basically, what he just said is no bolt ons for you if you plan to come close to that teg.Quote:
Originally Posted by rjudgey
wood be a great idea to spend some money not on bolt ons but turbo the thing properly... aparently they go fast turboed for some particular reason....
Copy and paste to save for later when I print it out to keep it in a high security vault where nothing, but me can get to it!! Godly advice...Quote:
Originally Posted by rjudgey
If you had a healthy engine a turbo would be a good option, probably around $6-800 for a manifold to be made, $4-500 for a re-built turbo, $4-500 for the piping, intercooler, wastegate etc. i'd highly recommend an oil cooler kit for engine as the oil temps will get a lot higher than norm, $1500-2000 for a good aftermarket ECU and ignition system so that the whole thing doesn't blow up in your face, bigger injectors, fuel pump, fuel regulator $500 or so. So $4-5000 in parts alone depending on quality and howmuch secondhand stuff you can get cheap!! Oh not to mention you'll be needing $5-600 for a clutchnet flywheel and clutch kit. Oh you'd probably have to hire a rolling road for a day to tune properly so add $4-500 for that.
i think you could put together a setup that would smoke that b series for under 1750 but youd have to find deals and/or be able to weld your own parts, like the manifold and charge piping etc. Used but good t3 turbos can be had for well under 200 without the need to rebuild, plus an intercooler and piping can be had for well under 200 if you fab the pipes yourself. Managemant and fuel system upgrades i would think are at least gonna cost 450+ and thats just for an safc/btm setup that i wouldnt run over 11-12psi boost with it, it just gets too sketchy.
You'd still need to spend $5-600 on beefing up the clutch and flywheel though, otherwise you'll just burn the clutch out as soon as you pull away for the first time!! If you can get a load of ghetto finds yes you could do it for half the cost but would it last most likely not, would it be as reliable most likely not, can this guy do any of the work for any of this stuff most lkely not as he wouldn't be asking what he needs to beat the Teg in the first place! apparantly someone on preludpower has ghetto rigged a turbo setup onto a 2nd gen lude and run 13.376 1/4 mile time? then the engine blew all it's coolant out. So doing cheap isn't allways best espcially when you don't know what your doing off. It's okay to qoute these cheap prices but to be honest most people wouldn't know what parts to get or where to get them cheap from your knowledge is far greater than most on turbo charging an a20 but you've got that much more knowledge that it seems a lot easier for you to do if you had to do another one.
to be honest just stick whatever bolt ons you can get and add some nos upgrade the flywheel and clutch and then be prepared to stick a new engine in quick after it all blows up!! Which ever option the guy takes it's going to need a fair amount of investment and it's going to end up blowing up the engine whether NOS, Turbo or highly tuned N/A.
I think ultimately he has to decide is this really worth wrecking his car over, personally just eat humble pie for a bit maybe wind him up a little, then start working out what he wants to do with his car but what ever it is it should start with a fully re-built race prepped blue printed engine then he won't have to worry about it going pop when he puts his foot down. At the end of the day he has a nice little classic honda hatch and is there really any point it getting all macho about who's cars faster than who's i like tegs and quite frankly with all the trouble with rust i'm having i'm considering dumping the old hondas and going with something more interesting like a kit car type with a honda engine inside it instead maybe an ariel atom or something similar!! That way even a ferrari wouldn't beat me ;0)
Very true. These cars are getting kind of old to be using as drag sleds, aren't they? I've found over and over again that I ended up being a lot happier just enjoying my various Hondas for what they were instead of getting worked up trying to figure out how to make them beat other cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by rjudgey
I'm still rather surprised to see someone on this site say that though.
When you drive something much newer AKA my BMW 120d Msport you get to appreciate that turning your car into a speed machine from a family car is not the most economic way of having fun, it cost me so much money to gain the knowledge i have to make these old girls far more interesting than they ever could have dreamt of being when honda first released them, but at the end of the day when your running silly power and your constantly runnign around racing everything in sight and they are fun to use and to take on track and to drag race but they are just so fragile you get tired of the constant re-builds, to the gearbox, engines, and what ever else packs up that month. Buying a new car thats fas to begine with and modding that seems to last much longer yes it's still not quite the same but my two ludes have been of the road for a year now, if i had not had been fortunate enough to have been able to get a company car allowance to buy a really good car i would have had it fixed in like a space of a month but since i've been running around in the beemer terrorising the petrol heads in my derv mobile i've been getting just as big a kick out of that as i did terrorising modern sports cars with my 20 year old grandad honda mobile!! I will get it going again it's just so much harder to work up th motivation to swap over engines and pull rusty old suspension parts apart. Plus the money i spent over 7 years on these two cars i could have bought a nearly brand new Z4 M coupe!! And god do i hate rust i think if i were in a hot climate and i had two non rusty old hondas my opinion would be slightly different. But you just get worn out by them in the end but i'm going to give the webered Beast one last chance and it will be something special but it will take a while to finish as i want it to be the best i can get it to with the 7 years of my research and the knowledge i've gathered from here and other forums.
Maybe then you'll post some pics! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by rjudgey
You've got pics allready it's all on my cardomain, the engine still looks the same, the webers still look like webers, you can't show pics of inside an engine or gearbox? You got pics of the inlet manifold i had custom made which took a year to be perfected and finished, theres pics of work i've done on cylinder heads. Only thing left i'm waiting for is for someone to finish making my custom exhaust valves, and to buy and moddify a exhaust manifold and system. Oh i'm planning on putting bac the black old shape bumpers and painting bottom half of car in black anti rust paint to help try and preserve her for a bit longer so it will have a nice two tone look i'll post some pics of that when i eventually do it probably in the summer when the car is hopefully put back on the road. You are so demanding you worse than a woman ;0)
I didn't even know you had a Cardomain!
Man I hate that site everything takes too long to load. Oh well guess I'll go look. "Sigh"
doh silly penguin!!
here you go save you searching!!
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/281725
and have a look here as well!!
http://www.myspace.com/rjudgey
have fun looking and don't ask me for any more bloody pics ;o)
I'll post you some new one's when i have something worth showing! Promise!
Added.
Nice Preludes, sir!
can i beat it with an 89 supra non turboed 3.0l inline 6 7m-ge?
lol, no
so why wouldnt i?
I know what you mean,i stated doing some of the machine work on my SU dual carb manifold around Christmas time last year, I remember because everyone else was walking around shit faced at work,and i was machining parts. much better use of time if you ask me.Quote:
Originally Posted by rjudgey
do a V8 swap then you'll smoke everything, almost.
could i build it to beat him without having to put an turbo on it?
you could bolt on a tow bar and bolt that onto the back of a top fuel dragster. then you would probably beat him. just watch out for those chutes hitting the windshield. :)
itd be more expensive and more effort to try and beat this guy without a turbo, youll need a shit ton of headwork, nitrous and weight reduction.
Just use a different car, these cars make like what 80-90 hp stock. Buy a ZO6 and he will enjoy seeing your tail lights from a football field away.
actually the 7m-ge produces 200rwhp
its also a 3600lb car. 200whp in a 3600lb car is probably a 15 sec car at best. My TL is a 215whp car and weighs 3400lb and only pulls mid 14s. If it was a turbo 7mgte with some mods then yeah you should be able to beat that b series
hell yeah and throw some d's on it and i was thinking about doing an mkiv front end conversion with the 93 supra head lights
look closely its an 89 with the 93 conversion
http://members.aol.com/AkiraNeo/huh.jpg
http://members.aol.com/AkiraNeo/mkivfront.jpg
89 supra with body kit
http://members.aol.com/AkiraNeo/bomex2.jpg
they dont look that bad
Only way your going to beat that teg is to get something light, suggest maybe looking for a 1st gen Rex or 2nd gen Civic DL and then drop a ZC or better B16 in there with a few mods then you'll be getting warmer, getting a much heavier car with an engine that is only a little bit more powerfull is not forwards progress. Another option Mazda RX7 either Gen1 or much more powerful Gen 2 with turbocharged rotary and you still have the option of dropping V8 in there adn they don't weigh 3500lb!! Or other option is Mazda Miata with tweeked engine or V8 swap. Personally i'd track down a Toyota MR2 Mk1 with supercharged engine or maybe a turboed Mk2 MR2 then you'll be getting closer.
Okay getting off-topic, moved this to general.
yeah but well im now making payments on it and i got a killer deal so im jut needing to turbno the beast im going to twin turbo it with garret t61s
if you dont want a money pit id avoid any kind of rotary powered vehicle. Those things can be nightmares but can also make an assload of power. A turbo mazda miata would be a viable option i would think also. Hmm you could also just get an 98-00 civic si with a b16 right in it and boost it and you should crush that teg pretty badly
1 engine, 2 words. H22 Swap!
As much money as you would spend on mods or a new car, I think you could drop this beast in and take his ass with a couple bolt on's. :rockon:
