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i have a friend who keeps buying cheap rotors from auto zone. THey cost maybe $13 each. he puts them on and weeks later they are warped. I told him to stop tightening the lug nuts so tight but they keep warping. What are the best rotors made for this car, the lx carb model? honda oem brand, slotted, drilled, drilled and slotted would cheap drilled and slotted be good?
ebc sport drilled rotors are nice. I can't speak on how long they take to warp (i don't normally have that problem with mine. but they only cost like $55 for the pair when I bought them, and they are slotted and dimpled. :)
I bought mine from tirerack, and i don't see them anymore, but if you call around you might be able to find them. otherwise most people on here really love brembo blanks, $25/ea.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...ar=&perfCode=P
I run autozone blanks, with no problems at all. Tell your friend to buy better pads.
Alex
I read in a car tuning book that I bought that "cryo-treated" rotors resist warping. If you look on tirerack, they have a pair of cryo-treated, slotted powerslot rotors, but they are expensive.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...7&autoModClar=
I have the cheap rotors up front too and they seem to be warped. I will be getting Brembo blanks soon.
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Originally Posted by lamontlamont
Tell him to get a torque wrench and to tighten his wheel nuts properly. Also, abusing any brake will cause it to fail, and the only remedy for that is to change driving habits.
Brembo blanks, they're cheap and high quality.
i have brembo blanks with aem pads best combo imo
Also, you should tell your friend to properly bed the rotors before regular driving with them. It's preferrable to bed new rotors with old pads, though.
i always thought if u get new rotors u should replace the pads toQuote:
Originally Posted by Vanilla Sky
Really? I'd always assumed that new rotors demand new pads...Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanilla Sky
hahaha beat u to it lolQuote:
Originally Posted by guyhatesmycar
you dont need breaks......just throw it in reverse.
and the award for worst advice ever goes to...... drum roll pleaseQuote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
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MESSYHONDA
Tell him brakes don't warp that some guy on the internet told you so so go on with his big bad self.
Been dying to use that one . :huh:
Best luck I have had is with my link below Type R rotors, pads and calipers. Way more then a year and no warped,err shuttering when braking.
wp
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord
i know who you talking about....HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH.....OWNED!!! SUCKA>>>LOL
im happy with my se-i set up....drilled and sloted with AEM pads and SS lines....stops real nice....so good that i need to get sticker tires next time i buy some.
Actually I use to believe that rotors wrapped as well, but it turns out it has a lot to do with the pads you have. They truly do leave deposits on the rotor. I have EBC pads and it turns out they are notorious for this problem. I called the guy at fastbrakes to ask him about my warping problem, and he told me there is no way I am warping my rotors. He then told me to get different pads (Hawk HP preferably) and take a piece of fine grit sand paper to the rotor. So I tried it, and all the brake shuttering disappeared. It only took about 30 sec of sanding per rotor on both sides of the rotor, and I was done. Take some sandpaper to the rotors and get some new pads :thumbup: .
I don't know if I want to get into this again, but yes you can leave pad materials on the rotors. You can also burn it off with a series of high speed 80 -> 40mph brakes. Heat up the rotors, but don't over do it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy
But wouldn't he need to replace the pads that are causing the problem in the first place, before he tries the 80-40 thing?
Where are you lord in this time of peril? Show the disbelievers the light. $12 rotors cannot possibly warp, it is all in your minds.Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord
Yep, brake rotors don't warp. It's all in the brake pads, cause they start having cemenite forming. Even ask Carl Smith, he knows rotors don't warp. Get with the program people.
It's Carrol Smith. And you call yourself a beliver, you should be shot. :lol:
:bow:brake gods:bow:
Haha, I just thought that sounded good. Really, I turn at least one set of rotors a week from warping. Just have to mic them so their not below specs afterwards. If a rotor is really warped, I just replace them as a set with new pads. Generally just install some semi-metallic pads.. We don't get into high performance pads & rotors on cars. When I install new rotors, you have to remove the film with BRAK-KLEEN before installing new pads. Then use a torque wrench @ 80-100 ft. lbs. on the lug nuts.
I think I've turned my rotors once owning my car for 6 years.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ddude2uc
Your quote is a little wrong, rotors due warp but only under EXTREME heat. I think racecars that go from 100+ MPH then slow to 40MPH, and so on a so forth for hours at a time have this problem with warping rotors. I dont think a 3gee even has the ability to make the rotors warp.
I know they warp, read the post above yours. That was some B.S. some guy was trippin on not long ago. Something about cemenite etc. (was crazy & that thread got locked. )
Both of them.Quote:
Originally Posted by ddude2uc
I live around some of the steepest roads in north america. Some of our hills (Trail hill, Salmo Creston) are 6-10% grade for 10-30 kilometers. Both of these roads have runaway lanes at regular intervals as well as mandatory brake checks for heavy vehicles at the top. Needless to say, I've personally seen 3 or 4 really bad accidents involving semi's, a couple involving cars, and a pile of destroyed brakes on passenger cars and heavy vehicles.
There is usually an accident a week here because of overused brakes, fade, and yes, brake fires, on everything from 18 wheelers to Civic's.
Just ask 2ndgenguy, he actually DROVE here and back.
The moral of the story, overheating your brakes will fuck them.
Not if you just want to cook off the pad deposits. But usually after doing this, you may want to replace the pads. Any pads, I think would be fine for getting rid of excess deposits. But you'd at least want to pull the pads off and sand off the glazing. typically if you have the deposits, and you are actually able to burn them off, you won't have shuddering anymore. Replacing them would be like preventative maintenance, I suppose.Quote:
Originally Posted by Legend_master
And yeah, I've been to where Mike lives. It's fucking crazy hills everywhere! Heat will cook your brakes. If anybody knows what heat and endless hills can do, its that guy!
All I've ever advocated, is if you have shuddering, try the simple, easy, cheap method of cooking off the deposits. If that doesn't work, they're probably warped and go ahead and toss on some new rotors. I think rotors warp probably less often than most people think, but I do think they can warp. And heating the shit out of them will warp them. The idea is to heat them without overheating them... Seriously, why not try the harmless, free fix first?
OUt of the hundreds of rotors I have turned I have noticed that after the first cut the out of spec place is usually about the same shape and size of a brake pad. That being the case I would say that a large percent of warped rotors happen when the car is stopped after a hard braking. After a hard brake to a stop I always leave room to roll up a little or either go to neutral and get off the brake pedal. Holding the pads down on the rotor does not let the rotor cool off uniformly.
Then there is the contaminated 'warped" condition that is being described a lot here.This is where some foreign material, whether from a brake pad, tire/wheel dressings like eagle or armor all.. has got onto the rotor surface and made hot spots, hard spots, glazing or crytalization.
An finally there are just cooked rotors like you would find in an uneven set up or extreme grade braking. The uneven set up would be from the rear brakes not doing their part and overworking the fronts. Or from bad flexable brake lines not letting brake fluid travel both ways thus not releasing the caliper in a timely manner, as well as a bad caliper that sticks or caliper mounting that does not allow the caliper to float freely which causes one pad to do most of the work on that side.
Any or all of these conditions can make way for the other to begin or add to causing problems, that is why it is so important to do a thorough check up when reparing out of true rotors.
I've always been told to bed new rotors with a set of old, but still servicable pads, then replace the pads. Seems I've gotten bad info.
I've had a thought, maybe the "bed the new rotors with the old pads" isn't so far off. Heating (bedding) brakes can cause the adhesives and bonding agents to melt and flow out of the pad material, so it makes sense to do this to your old pads, not the brand new ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanilla Sky
Cook the old pads, and throw them in the garbage like you were going to anyways...
Maybe? Any thoughts on this?
I agree with all of the above. When I got my EBC pads, the box said "DO NOT USE WITH NEW ROTORS." It said that it's best to break in your rotors on old pads, then use the broken in rotors to bed your new pads. I think the idea is you don't want to do them both at the same time... The EBC pads had a "Break in material" on them though, that is kinda like a gel coating. Supposedly its an incompatible material with whatever materials are on a new set of rotors.
It seems to me it would be especially true with rotors that have been zinc plated for prettyness. The zinc plating is on the braking surface as well, and that stuff moves around a whole lot. I had some massive shuddering in my brakes when I first put them on my car, but once I went out and burned that crap off, my brakes were smooth as buttah.
i still see the point that if ur changing your rotors due to the pads u dont want to use them on your new rotors right, 90% of the time when im changing rotors im doing it cause the pads f'ed them up
I had a rotor warping problem with my old Galant. I bought a new pair of rotors and took them to a local shop to be cryo treated, after that never had them warp again and they lasted a long time.
