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im about tired of messing with the stock carb. so i've looked and i can get the weber carb and kit for a bit more than $400. it comes with the 32/36 progressive 2 bbl carb. i was considering a 38/38 syncronized carb instead. which would be the best carb to use of those two? i have a header and free flowing exhaust so a bit more air is what i need. might try and get it in the next few months.
Well while you're at it do some head work and some intake manifold work and see great results. I cannot say which weber would be better but i do recall reading the 38/38 would be better. Then again are you going to look at fuel consumption as well or that doesn't matter?Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaBoy
well, i dunno yet. depends on if i'm getting a new daily driver. not, then yeah going to want decent fuel mileage. if i get a newer car, i'll try the 38/38. but yeah, either way i hear the fuel mileage is still fairly excelent. i mean my kehin is running like shit right now and still gets 22 mpg with a heavy foot.
My heavy foot gets me 25mpg.Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaBoy
That's terrible. I would get 27-30 with my Weber 38.Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaBoy
The 38/38 will be a little easier to tune since both barrels use the same jets. On the 32/36 each barrel is tuned separately but they have to work together. I would say just get the 38/38.
When you do this, I would recommend getting a wide band O2 sensor and gauge as well. They're expensive but they make tuning SOOOO much easier. If you dig around in the carb stickies you can read my commentary on Weber 38/38 tuning.
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oh, i didnt mention. my kehin has started f'ing up again, dumping fuel from the primary booster venturi. i've have it so it drives decently and whatnot. i may just order the 32/36 and go from there. i'm thinking to spend $450-$500 for the complete kit, the carb, addapter and hardwear that should be supplied. i dunno. i'll see though because i feel its time to do another bolt on performance mod.
I bought my 32/36 kit (76-83) from 'carbs unlimited' for 391.00 with tax. I think the 86-89 kit is $378 +tx. everything needed for the install was included. check out the weber install thread for info on the tools needed for the job.Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaBoy
hey thanks man. thats a lot better deal than everywhere else. i may order from there.
yeah so i wanna get this carb kit on my car asap. i may be ordering it in a few weeks since its not too expensive compared to other alternatives to a new performance carb setup. i just wonder how this is going to work. my car is automatic, but it doesnt have the kick down connected at the carb but at the accelerator pedal. so this should work out nicely.
hey, so has anyone else done the weber 32/36 or 38/38 down drought carb successfully on an automatic car? remember i got lucky and have the kickdown on the pedal, not up at the carb. i really think this mod will be worth while after its installed.
I agree, 38 unless you're really stingy for gas.
Don't worry about the Auto Cable if you have it on the pedal, treat your car as if it you were installing it on a manual car and leave the cable alone.
Only if you have it on the carb do you need to make a new cable and run it to the pedal or you can have fun and run it to a manual pedal assembly and manually control the TV with the clutch pedal, but thats a lot of work.
i'll have to call them i guess if i want the 38/38. only thing is its supposedly harder to work on when it needs a rebuild and has to be syncronized after dissasembly and sometimes after a bit of use needs to be resyncronized. the 32/36 would be great too. i can always change the jets and its supposed to get great fuel mileage, possibly better than the kehin.
The throttle plates on the 38/38 are on the same shaft, so unless you actually remove the them you can't mess it up. And since they're on the same shaft you can't get them out of sync. The only thing that can happen is that they might not close completely. Seriously, it's nothing to worry about.Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaBoy
And overall the 38/38 is insanely easy to work on. You can do a jet change in under 10 minutes. I would say it's even easier than the 32/36.
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done it,you will have to adjust the cable to sync with the amount of throttle opening required to make torque also to sync with the different geometry & linkage travel of throttle linkage to carb. not a biggieQuote:
Originally Posted by HondaBoy
hey so you guys think i should spend a bit extra and just get the 38/38 syncro? i mean the more power the better. as long as i still get about 22mpg city driving i'm good. does the 38/38 add a fairly noticeable amount more than the 32/36? and the mounting are the same on both correct?
There were two versions of the 38, the one with the independent shafts and a gear to operate the shafts was the place where it might go out of sync. What I liked with that style is the throttle plates opened evenly in respect to the runners, but on the single shaft 38 you'll have the throttle opening facing one runner or the other. My be a mute point though.Quote:
Originally Posted by cygnus x-1
Ok I am a little skeptical about throttle butterflys not closing all the way not being something to worry about.Quote:
Originally Posted by cygnus x-1
Does the 38 Weber for A20 Honda come prejetted for the application like the 32/36 Kit? Of course either would be optimal to have jet kit on hand to match other mods on an engine.
38 is definatlely going to give more power than the 32/36, but will it be the best suited carb for a replacement on a bone stock engine? Would it be just as suitable for all types of driving as 32/36?
Extra Intake manifold porting and removal of plentum divider would be necessary as well wouldnt it?
The Weber thread is definatley a good read, and Cygnus x-1 You should be able to rejet these carbs blindfolded, you have done a lot of changes with yours.. I had not looked at the thread in a while , you've been busy recently !
yeah, i dont think the 38 dges comes properley jetted for our engine. i was thinking i'd need a jet kit and some other crap before i could successfully install it. thats why i think maybe a specificly jetted carb would be better to go with which is the 32/36 dgev in the kit available. easy to put on more or less and hardest part is going to be the installation of the throttal cable i'm guessing.
Quote:
The throttle plates on the 38/38 are on the same shaft, so unless you actually remove the them you can't mess it up. And since they're on the same shaft you can't get them out of sync. The only thing that can happen is that they might not close completely. Seriously, it's nothing to worry about.
Ok, I lied. Not sure what I was smoking :nuts: when I wrote that but it's totally wrong. The throttle plates are on different shafts and there is a gear between them. Yes, they can get out of sync but if you're buying one new it will already be correct. I still wouldn't worry too much about it. I picked up my carb used on ebay and it's fine.
The default jetting on the 38/38 will be close enough to at least get you rolling. But either carb should be tuned to your specific engine. The 32/36 will be more of a plug and play type thing since it comes as a kit specifically for the application. But the 38/38 wasn't that bad. I did some extra work on my setup by opening up the plenum in the manifold, although this is not required, and I almost wonder if I maybe hogged out too much. Throttle response can suffer if the plenum volume is too large.
So as far as which to choose, I would say the 32/36 for easy installation and the 38/38 for performance if you don't mind some tinkering. As I said before, my typical mileage was better than 26MPG and usually more like 28MPG. Plus I have an upgraded cam so you should have absolutely no problem getting better than 22MPG.
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as far as tinkering goes, what do you mean by that. just plainly adjusting the a/f ratio or do you mean rejetting it if i decide to go with a 38/38? i really want more performance, but wouldnt mind the 32/36 since there is improvment there. i can live with the fuel mileage, i mean even with my kehin acting up right now i still get decent fuel mileage.
Re-jetting IS how you change the AF ratio. Those little adjusting screws are only for adjusting the idle mixture. The 38/38 will most likely need some jetting changes to get it running properly. As I said it should run with the default jetting but it won't be optimal. The 32/36 will be closer to optimal because it comes already setup for the particular engine, although it still may not be perfect.
And like I said before, if you really want to get into tuning you should seriously consider a wide band O2 sensor as well. It shows you exactly what the AFR at that moment. Otherwise you have to judge by sound of the exhaust and feel of the car to figure out what jetting changes to make. Changing the jets is really easy. Knowing what changes to make is not so easy.
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I been considering a weber carb for some time, but it'll have to wait. Also, some newer scan tools have a engine exhaust analyzer, that can get the jets on a 38/38 weber sychronized.
38/38 on ebay, don't see them used very often.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-W...QQcmdZViewItem
thats almost as much as the entire kit that comes with a carb and all the hardware.
Search for 38 instead of 38/38 also search just for weber or for dgas or dges or dgms or something along those lines on ebay. Also Carb , Carby , or Carburetor
$125 USD
http://cgi.ebay.com/WEBER-38-DGAS-US...QQcmdZViewItem
that one has 12 minuets left and is in the UK so you'll pay much more because of the exchange rate.
a little cheaper $300 USD
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll..._promot_widget
well its comming close to me getting a new carb. i havent quite decided wheather or not the 38 dges is a good idea. maybe i should wait and see what i can do with 32/36 dgev. probably will be satisfied for a while with the 32/36. i plan to put a new cam and valve springs in when i have a little more money. but that will probably not come until i have another car to drive daily. i think i will just order the specified kit for my car and go from there. its right about $400 for the carb and kit, so soon probably. maybe within this month.
You should read some of the threads posted about having a 32/36 then switching to a 38...
not on this forum but others. It's pretty much sold me on getting a 38. Though I'm planning on something much bigger. :)
yeah, i dont even know where to start if i was going to do a 4 barrel like you. well not the right way. but yeah, i figure the 38 would have a bit more flow than the 32/36. but, this is probably going to be a daily driver more or less. probably even when i get a new car. i hope to put it on order in 3-6 weeks. depends on what the money situation is at that point, thats why i'm waiting a little bit so i dont fall in a hole with my money. i dont quite know what the power increase will be or feel like with the 32/36. i also dont know how significant power increase is with the 38 is compared to the 32/36. but i think for the least hassle i should go with the 32/36. might change my mind if i find its not too much more for a 38.
keep searching e-bay... just be careful because e-bay carbs might be in bad shape causing leaks of either vacuum or fuel.
Fortunately Webers have decent resale value, so you can always turn it around again and upgrade.
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Even if you get a used 38/38 off ebay in shitty shape, there are kits you can buy on ebay to rebuild it.
With any used carb I would immediately replace all the gaskets and wear parts as a matter of principle. The big thing with Webers is wear in the casting around the throttle shafts. They can be rebushed but you need to have the right tools and know what you're doing.Quote:
Originally Posted by ddude2uc
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yeah, i've never rebuilt a weber. just kehin, holley and edelbrock. but maybe not to the point of redoing the throttle shafts. i'm going to buy it new though. i think i will be going with a 32/36. later on if i feel the need for a 38, i'll get it and probably sell the 32/36 here on 3geez. mainly, i want a nice increase in power, i know its not going to be a shit load but still noticeable compared to the kehin. and i want an easy install which will be as easy as its going to get with the kit specific for the A20.
its on order. K728 is the kit number. should be here pretty soon. cant wait to get this thing and put it on. hopefully a great improvement from the kehin. if you dont know this kit comes with the weber 32/36 dgev with electric choke.
Right off the bat, you are going to love ripping stuff out from your engine bay that you do not need anymore! That was very gratifying for me, especially the B O X.... it was like alien vs preditor , me being the alien of course, dam box with dredlocks...:rocket:
The significance of exorcising the black box of death cannot be overstated. I would suggest very carefully removing it from the engine bay, placing it on the ground, and smashing it into 1000-million-billion pieces with some sort of heavy implement. Then sweep up all the remains (be certain you don't miss any) and dump them onto a pyre to be burnt in effigy. Copious amounts of gasoline or carb cleaner are recommended. Absolutely do not breath the fumes as they are highly toxic.
This way the evil cannot return to haunt the vehicle ever again.
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Hey isn't this the kit for the 3gee? I know it's not for an '84 like the ad says. The adapter plate looks like a 3gee adapter plate:
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/433669178.html
i had already done the vacuum line removal. ran fine until i got 2 crap carbs. and yeah that does look like a kit for a 3rd gen. so i dunno about that there. but i know mine should have everything i'll need. i wonder if i'm gonna be the first to do this with an automatic without really modding the kick down cable since mine is attached at the pedal not the carb.
No, the 3g adapter plate is slightly different. Close though.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy
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yea one of those kits for Honda will bolt up, but at one end the adapter just misses covering the manifold so it is a paper thin gap that can be an evasive vacuum leak.
Check out the Weber threads for:
porting the adapter plates to match the manifold
Also be careful with the carb studs, you can screw them in too much and push the top part away from the bottom part and cause it to warp.. This can easily happen if you are tightening the nuts on the studs after the carb is on and the stud is actually turning with the nut. Also they say never use any sealant on carb flanges, but I used Permetex HI Tack, brush in can..but do not use it between the actual carb and plate, only on the underside of the gasket.
sheduled to arrive here next thursday. hopefully UPS wont be slow.
anyone know what i will see after installing and adjusting out this carb? when the kehin was running well, my car had quite a decent amount of power from when i first got the car in stock condition. since the carb runs crappy now its lost a little power. but i was hoping the 32/36 weber is going to be noticeably more peppy and increase my fuel economy. i'll definately be making a video after the installation. hope its going to be fairly strait foward on the install also. later i plan to upgrade the fuel pump with something that has a bit more volume flow. anyways, still excited to get it on thursday.
