anyone know what if any main studs will fit the a20??? and i know this has been asked before but im to lazy to search but does anyone know how much power our cranks can take?
so does anyone know what part number the main studs are???
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anyone know what if any main studs will fit the a20??? and i know this has been asked before but im to lazy to search but does anyone know how much power our cranks can take?
so does anyone know what part number the main studs are???
i dont think ive ever seen an a20 crank break. There were some guys running arp main studs but im not sure what the part number is
yea ive never heard of a crank breaking but jw all the same. if i can just get the part number thats all i needQuote:
Originally Posted by AccordEpicenter
I've seen a broken a20 crank, but it was most assuredly a fluke, not because of crazy whpzzzz.
Alex
What are you trying to do anyway? I can't imagine a situation where the bolts would be the weak link.
When I was rebuilding my engine I got head studs and connecting rod bolts from ARP, and they were off the shelf parts. They would probably be able to come up with some compatible main studs as well if you called them. They also do custom stuff if you're willing to spend some money.
http://www.arp-bolts.com/
The turbo guys could probably answer this question.
C|
yes, arp will do custom work, you just have to pay them for it. it'd probably be in your best interest to order several sets both to have extras and to possibly resell and subsequently lower the per unit cost as well.
i just like the security of studs. they torque much nice and easy and i have never had a problem with them(not that ive had one with bolts i just like studs). im planing to try and hit 300hp and the studs are just an added safety feature.Quote:
Originally Posted by Accordtheory
i would compare numbers just like i did with the flywheel bolts and b-serries parts thru honda...and it turned out it was the same ones.
the only thing that sucks about our trans is that you will need LSD...some members have put in some type in...even me at 130hp i get no grip in 1st gear...i have the integra gear swap....2nd gear grabs good tho.
i think he has 450cc
Well, it's your money. Just be sure to check your bearing clearances with them. After reading threads elsewhere about highest hp on various stock hondas and seeing what people have done, I'd bet 300whp could be attained with a completely stock bottom end, pistons and all, and not that unreliably. As far as I know, no one on here has tried to see what the stock limit really is with a good tuner. Esp me, I never had any form of non half assed management, and I didn't know/care wtf I was doing. But it's been my experience that the stupid tranny can't reliably hold any power anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by hondaman1986
well what the hell i have an engine ready to be rebuilt let me be the one to see how much power that they can put out stock. Im running Megasquit and spark(the latest version) with knock control so i should be fairly safe. i will try to get a call in to ARP soon but all I can manage right now is an email. as for the trans i might try and make my own adapter to a B trans but for now lets see how much the stocker can take I have a spare too so i wont be down for long.Quote:
Originally Posted by Accordtheory
Sweet! let us know how much you make before you break something. If you keep it at like 11.8:1 a/f and don't let it knock, hopefully we'll get a good indicator of what that hp level really is. I just posted in another thread about e85, can you get that where you are? I just ask because you might find yourself past the limits of pump gas pretty quickly. Do you have a good enough clutch and fuel system?
Yeah..well..he should be able to hook up on the dyno.
I'm liking this thread more and more..
There are many people making 600+whp on e85 with the b series vtec motors..
What does your setup consist of? Fuel system, clutch, intercooler, what size exhaust, etc, etc? There are so many people with builds going on right now I can't even keep track of all of them. I remember when I was one of just 2 or 3 people on this site who had or was building a turbo accord, not anymore..
What turbo do you have?
I don't know about the msd pump, is it the same as the walbro 255 hp? I do know that your injectors are way too small for any real power, check out the injector worksheet on http://www.rceng.com
You'll have to change your fpr so your fuel press doesn't rise at idle/low load. Don't do the endyn mod and drill it, that's only a temporary fix, it reduces the capacity of your fuel system, as even when the diaphragm is closed, it's still bypassing fuel. How big is your downpipe to your cut out? At least 3"?
What about your intake manifold? The stock 89 2 stage setup is complete garbage, I recommend the aebs/professional products b16/type r manifold. ($130 or so on egay), or the skunk2 pro series. You'll then have to get a b series TB and fuel rail, but it's all very worth it. That's about all that's coming to mind currently..there were never any good clutches out there for the a20 setup, that's yet another reason why I dropped a b series in my 3g.
im actualy going to run is on E85 just for the 105 octane rating and it wont knock as bad as pump fuelQuote:
Originally Posted by Accordtheory
it will be a stock block with a stock head except for a delta 272 cam and a18 carb exhaust springs. 1989 fuel system with an msd hi pressure fuel pump and braided line, E85 fuel and 40lbh injectors and megasquirt efi. clutch unkown as of now. intercooler unknown, exhaust 2.25 pacesetter (with cutout right under turbo for straight pipe fun. theres probly more but im still asleep so anything else anyone would like to know feel free to ask.Quote:
Originally Posted by Accordtheory
::edit::
just so everyone knows this build is not going to be just slapped together so it may take some time to get done.
im going to use a synapse fpr and i got my injectors for free the cool part about it is i have 8 so all i would realy have to do is make more injector holes and anothe fuel rail but im lazy and thats a lot of work. its a Precision sc32 turbo and its a 3" to the cut out. i dont know about the mani yet but i will find something.Quote:
Originally Posted by Accordtheory
For turbo though, is it a good idea to use a 272 cam? I thought you wanted more of a stock cam to stay away from intake/exhaust overlap?
C|
actualy a little overlap is good for a turbo because as the exhaust valve is closing and the intake is opening the pressure of the exhaust leaving jerks boosted air in faster which means more powerQuote:
Originally Posted by cygnus x-1
as long as you used good qual main bolts you'd never have a probQuote:
Originally Posted by hondaman1986
the main thing to remember is when you put the motor together make sure the bolt holes are clean as.
any threaded item nut,bolt or hole has to be spotless or you get an inaccurate torque
invest in a good set of gun cleaning brushes for just such thngs
as for the cam grind
a bit of overlap is good as with the turbo route the pressureised air will help the exhaust gas out of the cylinder and reduce the dilution of the af mix
just not to much over lap or you will lose to much of the fresh af mix to the exhaust and get a real high hc reading at inspection time
The only studs you really need are ARP head studs and you get them for a 2.0L miata part# 218-4703. and the work in the A20 engines. If your looking for turbo parts let me know I have parts like clutch setup, mani and downpipe, fuel injectors, SAFC, BTM, etc...
what size injectors????Quote:
Originally Posted by LiTtLe xOx BitT
Ahh, got it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hauntd ca3
C|
...?Quote:
Originally Posted by hondaman1986
You don't get scavenging with a turbo setup, unless your exhaust manifold (back) pressure is really low, ie, lower than your IM press..this is attainable, but only with a very efficient setup. A large cam with a small turbo, restrictive IM, restrictive exhaust, and a restrictive exhaust manifold (log manifold, or "clog manifold", as I like to call it) will encourage exhaust reversion back into the chamber, the exhaust manifold backpress will be considerably higher than the IM press. A small cam with an efficient setup will actually have the same effect, by not completely evacuating the chamber of exhaust. People used to run b16 cams in their vtec motors, now they know better and run type Rs.
I give the 272 cam a thumbs up..
Yea, 450cc sonic cleaned injectors.Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
they are just big enough for 200 hp but they would actualy fit my rail insted of the ones i have how much?Quote:
Originally Posted by LiTtLe xOx BitT
::edit::
also does anyone know where to get the miata head studs for relitivly cheap????
anyone use them???Quote:
Originally Posted by cygnus x-1
i use them. And 272 cam depends on the rest of the setup. I would say in reality to use a 272 cam effectively on boost youre gonna need a pretty decent size turbo, some kind of decent turbo mani (log=no, pea shooter turbo=no) and maybe intake mani/tb upgrade. Head work and valves should enter the equation sooner or later as well
I am. Although I'm not making enough power for them to really matter. Even still, they're very high quality fasteners.
C|
Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBO FAQ
As far as the injectors, I was just on rceng.com, and I'd get their 1000cc ones. You'll still be able to have an okay idle, esp on e85. If you want the idle to be better, you can also get the aem peak and hold injector driver box, if the megasquirt setup you have doesn't have true peak and hold injector drivers. As far as I know, no honda ecu does, that's why they run resistors. (defeating the whole purpose of the peak and hold setup).
with e85 you need roughly 1.5times the fuel so 1000cc injectors would be great for my set up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Accordtheory
megasquirt is setup to run peak and hold injectors but you can change it if you want but i like peak and hold just cause its easy for me to do with megasquirt.
