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I was looking in the online manual... under brakes... it says with or without 4W-ALB
just wondering exactly what this means... I know the lx-i or ex-i comes with 4 wheels disc brakes, is that what it means?? and my parts car is a fuel injected 4 door, pretty sure its an lx-i but has drums on the back.... weird stuff...
4WA.L.B - Four Wheel Anti Locking Brakes. I think
Ah that sounds about right.... damn I hope I dont have that crap ;)
You don't :)
Sweet stuff dude
Only the SE-i and 4W-ALB models came with rear discs, not EX-i's or LX-i's. Just to clarify.
nobody has ever posted up about teh 3g anti-lock brakes
anybody have any info on this super rare thing?
I'd appreciate some of that info too... Mine's got them, but I think they've been disconnected. Atleast I can't feel them working...
if you want to find out if its workin
go find some gravelroad some where and stand on the brakes hard as
it shouldnt lock the brakes and should feel the pedal pulse as the abs modulates the pressure in the brake system
if its been dis connected find out why
down here in new zealand you'd fail inspection if it didnt work
I know it's not working (we got a lot of ice around here)
I just want to know if it's been disconnected on purpose or not.
As I was reading some finnish forums, and apparently they don't hold up too well in our climate and excessive road salt. So many disconnect them.
yeah its quiet poss it was disconnected on purpose
have heard that it can be tempermental
would be worth investigating if a standard master cylinder and prop valve can be put in its place if it cant be fixed
i havnt had much to do with the honda abs system so cant really tell you much bout it
there prob be someone else here that has tho
As far as I know, the USDM could not be equipped with ALB, but the JDM could, along with the crazy electronic display stuff. I don't know about the areas inbetween.
ALB was a JDM/EDM/Everywhere But North America Option, I think it was based more on added cost like all JDM Options
I'm sure if you had all the parts you could install a ALB system on a USDM Accord, but I'm sure it wouldn't really be worth it, Gen 1 ALB/ABS Kinda Sucks Vs Newer Tech
i had a ALB car, didnt work.. actually none of the cars with alb i have had have worked. it allways fucks up for some reason.
alexs lude passed a wof with the ALB error light on
somebody with more time then me should go find the thread about the twin piston OEM calipers there is info on the ALB system in that thread
side note, i wish my 3geez did have it and SRS because the insurance would be cheaper. MY ins is about 25% more on the 86 Accords than another car I have that is ten years newer and faster, just because of it not having ALB and SRS
My EUDM Aerodeck and my previous JDM 2.0Si Aerodeck had 4W ALB. Both did what it should. My current EUDM Aerodeck ALB developed unknown problem a couple of year ago and
compressor was working continuously in the end. To work on the ALB you need special Honda tool to bleed the ALB system and the cost of repair by the dealership seems to be more than the value of the car so I have decided to remove the fuse as well as warning light in the dash.
I'm glad I don't have SRS. There's something about having explosives in the car aimed at my face that creeps me out. Wouldn't mind ALB though. l'd be satisfied w/ 4-wheel discs.Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
Quote:
Originally Posted by prosenfe
my front brakes already have too much power....i lock em up way to easy....next upgrade is to get some bigger calipers in the rear
i have twin piston brakes on the front of my car & disc brakes on the rear, along with some 13" alloy wheels. i also done a manual conversion on it & swapped in a black interior. last time i washed it was about 3 weeks ago.. i still have to swap a fog light bulb cause one of them blew
I forgot to mention, when the 4wALB on my Aerodeck worked, it was very good on wet and snow surface. As most of you guys know, when one wheel rotate slower than other three wheels, the ALB sensor on each wheel pick this up and the ALB ecu decides to release the brake. So as a result it is like very fast pumping brake - on/off/on/off.... you get vibrator like response on the brake pedal. Problem is when 4WALB kicks in on tarmac at mid to low speed under dry condition, the distance will be much longer than braking with 4 wheels full lock.
LOLHAHAhahahHAHAHhahahahHAHAhAhaHHAhahahAhHAahhQuote:
Originally Posted by A18A
EX-i did come with 4 disc brakes.. at least in Europe.. My EXi have 4W disc'sQuote:
Originally Posted by 2drSE-i
edit: ALB come on late 88-89 models with B20 engine , dont remember was it a option or a standard feature on those cars..
In UK, ALB come with A20A4 injection model year 86-89 as standard. In EU market B20 was introduced only after 88 and come also with ALB as standard. In JDM, 2.0Si model year 85-89 come with ALB as standard but rest of the models can choose ALB as option.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomisimo
So does anyone have any idea where I should start looking as to why mine aren't working? I'm not getting any error lights, the ECU isn't blinking anything and the ALB fuse is in place...
maybe the ABS ring(s) are bad? or the sensor that reads the ABS rings?
Are you talking about the speed sensors at the wheels? Those are pretty rudimentary usually. Just a magnet & a ring gear around the hub most of the time. I'd bet it's electronic. Unless someone here knows more about these than I do, buy a Honda manual and start working through all the troubleshooting procedures.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZackieDarko
One problem... The troubleshooting process starts with "plug the ALB checker to the ALB control unit". Don't have too many of those laying around.
Okay, that's a good point. LOL. The dealer probably has one if it comes to that.
Some random thoughts, though:
There should be a Symptom-to-System chart in the manual. You can begin with that in order to figure out where to start investigating.
After that, start doing all the checks and inspections that don't require the ALB checker to see if something comes up.
Finally, (I'm going from my '93 manual here) the ALB checker just runs some normal operating signals (wheel speed, lock-up, etc.) through the system to see if it's functioning properly. There are 5 modes, each of which sends a different signal. The manual describes what should happen in each mode. You can try to see if there is a way to re-create those same conditions on a lift, on the road, etc. to see if things work like the manual describes.
Sorry if it sounds like I'm saying "just start doing a bunch of stuff and it will fix itself," because I'm not (not really). If you poke around at things enough, you eventually start seeing a few clues pointing in one direction.
Finally, your ABS light should come on briefly every time you turn on your car. If it's not, then it's malfunctioning. Figure that out first as that light might be trying to tell you the problem already.
Hope that helps and keep us posted.
I'm hoping to get the car back from it's reconstructive surgery today. Both sides of the back end were pretty far gone with rust.
First thing I'm gonna do, as you said, is to check if the light is working. As I haven't seen it on, and I don't remember if it lights up when I turn on the ignition. Also the control unit should probably be throwing some codes, so need to check that.
One thing I would need however is a chart for the underhood fuse box (posted another thread about it earlier), the sticker is gone from mine. And the relays for the ALB (main and failsafe) should be located in it, also there's an ALB 2 fuse somewhere and I think that one's in there too (the other ALB fuse is in the inside compartment).
But I'd need someone with an EDM 2.0i-16 4w ALB model to get it for me to be sure it's the right one...
Blah, it wasn't ready today... Gotta wait 'til tomorrow to get it back.
Got it back, and the ALB light seems to be removed/broken (won't light up when I turn on the ignition). I checked the ALB ecu and got an error code and checked it in the shop manual. It's the front right speed sensor.
Any idea on how much one of those could cost?
Of course it could just be any of the wires connecting it that is broken too...
My apologies, Zackie. You were right about it being a wheel sensor.
The sensors are about $100 (US). Be sure to check the gap between the sensor & the pulser first. It could just be a simple adjustment.
Heh, I'm hoping it's not that. The shop manual says it's not adjustable, and that a faulty gap would probably mean bent suspension parts.
I found the correct (I think) part in a JY in sweden, waiting for them to get back to me on if they're willing to ship it to finland.
Keep us posted. I'd like to know the outcome.
Well I checked the sensor, it should be fine. And also the wires should be ok. So now I have to figure out how to check the pulser and pulser gap...
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