12 Volt "big Three" Upgrade

Found this interesting, thought you all might want some more info on this topic.

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID~73496~PN~1

http://www.the12volt.com/

Enjoy:cheers:

Since this question comes up again and again here, I thought this might be a useful post. Performing a "Big 3" upgrade on your vehicle is one way to improve the electrical system performance and its ability to supply power to your audio system. This upgrade will help any vehicle using an after-market amplified stereo system, and most certainly should be performed on any vehicle after a high-output alternator is installed.

Please be sure you read and understand this entire instruction before you begin.

Definition: the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis. Some people replace the factory wiring; others add additional cables to the factory wiring. This instruction is to add cables to existing OEM wiring.

Parts and Tools:

As a minimum, you will need to purchase the following:

• Sufficient length of high-strand count high capacity power cable.
- The length required differs for every vehicle. You can measure the length of the existing cables and buy the same length, or contact your dealer or a mechanic and ask, or sometimes you can look it up in a manufacturer's wiring book, or guess. If you guess, make sure you over-estimate and buy too much.
- High strand count cable is more flexible and more reliable than low-strand count cable. Never use solid-core wire in a moving vehicle as it will eventually break.
- The gauge of wire you need depends on the total current draw of your audio system, and/or the current generating capacity of your alternator. Never use smaller cable that you used to power your amps; never use smaller cable than what already exists in your vehicle; never use smaller cable than the generating capacity of your alternator; never use smaller than 4 AWG (it's just not worth the time to use anything smaller); if in doubt, always use higher gauge cable than you think you need. If you look at the Power and Ground charts and your amplifier current draw corresponds to 2 AWG cable, use no smaller than 2 AWG cable, and use 1/0 if you can.

• 6 ring terminals or lugs of the appropriate size for the cable chosen. Two of these need to be large enough to fit over your battery posts, or appropriately sized to bolt onto your existing battery terminals.
• 1/2" or 5/8" shrink tubing (or some other form of permanent electrical insulation. Tape is NOT recommended.)
• Cable ties (plastic zip ties.)

• Wire cutters large enough to handle the cable you choose.
• Crimpers large enough to handle the connectors you choose.
• Soldering iron or gun.
• Solder.
• Scotch brite and/or a small wire brush.
• Heat gun.
• Safety razor blade (or other tool for stripping cable).
• Heat gun (if using shrink tubing).
• Wrenches for removing bolts in your vehicle.

Procedure:

1. Make sure your engine is completely cool before beginning. Identify the three cables being replaced. Make sure you can reach both ends of all cables. NOTE: the engine block to chassis cable may be between the engine and the transmission, or connected to the transmission and the fire wall, and is often an un-insulated flat braid cable.

2. Determine the lengths of cable needed to reach between the three locations being upgraded. Be sure you measure with a flexible tape (a tape measure used for sewing works great) and record the total length along the path you intend to install the cable. You do not want your cables to be pulled tight between any two locations as things move and vibrate as you drive. Be sure to include at least 1 inch extra for slack. NOTE: there is no reason to copy the existing wiring layout in your vehicle unless you want to. Also, be sure that the path you choose does not follow or lay across anything that gets hot, like exhaust parts, or anything that must move, like throttle linkage.

3. Cut your new cable to the three proper lengths. NOTE: some people like to use red cable for positive and black cable for negative. Doing this is completely up to you and is nice, but not necessary. You can use cable with any color insulation you like.

4. Strip each end of all cables to the proper length for the terminal lugs being used. NOTE: after full insertion into the lug, a small "band" of bare wire is usually seen between the back of the lug and the beginning of the cable insulation.

5. Begin at any one end and insert the stripped cable into the lug. Make sure it is fully inserted. Crimp the connector to hold the wire in place. NOTE: crimping large cable can be difficult. The intention here is not to make the crimp the sole means of holding the wire, but only to make sure the lug does not slip around during the soldering phase. I do NOT recommend using hammers or pliers or vices to crimp the connector as over-crimping can break the strands of the cable, reducing the current carrying capacity. Do not over-crimp.

6. You may need to use a vise or some other set of "helping hands" to hold the cable while you solder it. Heat your soldering iron and place it on the connector (on the lug side) barrel. Hold a piece of solder against the tip of the iron and melt the solder into the strands of the cable. Use sufficient solder to fill the connector and completely cover all strands of the cable. NOTE: the lug will get hot and will burn you if you try to hold it. Also, if the insulation on the cable starts to melt, you are over-heating the cable and not paying attention to melting the solder into the cable. You do not need to try and melt the cable!

7. Repeat the above steps on each end of all three cables.

8. After the cables have completely cooled, cut a piece of shrink tubing long enough to cover the soldered barrel end of the lugs and reach about 1/2" onto the insulation of each cable end. Slide this over each lug and use a heat gun to recover the tubing in place.

9. Disconnect your battery, starting with the negative cable first then the positive cable. Discharge any caps you may have in the system.

10. Begin adding your new cables along side the existing ones. I usually begin with the alternator positive cable. Locate the output stud on your alternator and remove the nut. Slip the new cable onto the lug and replace the nut. There is no need to disturb the existing cabling. Route the new cable to the battery and position it to connect to the positive battery post (or connect it to the positive terminal on the OEM wiring) but do not connect the battery yet.

continued:

11. Secure the new cable in place by using cable ties every 6 to 8 inches. Secure the cable to cool non-moving parts!

12. Locate where the negative battery cable attaches to the vehicle chassis. Remove this bolt and the OEM battery cable, and clean the mounting area of the chassis using scotch brite and/or a wire brush. Make sure there is no dirt, rust, paint, undercoating, etc in this location. You want bright shiny metal. Connect both your new ground and the OEM ground back to the chassis. NOTE: Some people like to create a new ground location by drilling into the chassis and using a bolt with star lock washers for the new ground cable. Route this new cable back to the battery and position it to be attached, or connect it to the negative terminal. Do not reconnect the battery yet.

13. Secure the negative cable using cable ties every 6-8 inches. Again, don't tie it to anything that moves or that gets hot!

14. Disconnect the engine ground strap at both ends. Using the wire brush or scotch brite, clean both the engine block and the chassis as you did for the first ground strap.

15. Line up the lugs on both the OEM ground strap and your new ground cable, and use cable ties to secure them to each other. This is much easier to accomplish in your lap or on the floor than it is while lying under your car or hanging upside down in the engine compartment. Reinstall both cables at the same time using the factory bolts.

16. Double check to make sure all bolts are tight. Be careful not to over-tighten them as you don't want to strip anything! Also, on some factory alternators it is WAY too easy to twist off the positive output lug. If you break it off, well hell, you really wanted a high-output alternator anyway, right? It is also a good idea at this point to measure resistance of the new cables. Take an ohm reading between the battery end of the new ground cable and the engine block. It should read less than one ohm. Also check between the alternator bolt and the disconnected positive battery terminal, which should also be less than one ohm. If you read too high resistance, double check all connections and make sure you do not have something c**ked sideways or hanging loose.

NOTE: Realize that the "absolute ground" of the electrical system is not the battery negative terminal or the vehicle chassis, but is the case of the alternator itself. This is why perhaps the most important cable among the Big 3 is the engine ground strap, as this is what connects the alternator ground to the vehicle's chassis. Be certain the resistance between the alternator case (the engine block assuming the alternator is properly bolted to the engine) and the battery negative is minimized. (Thanks to the12volt for pointing this out!)

17. When you are sure you are done and anything in your system that you may have disconnected are re-connected, clean your battery posts and reconnect the positive battery terminal first, then the negative one.

18. Start your vehicle. Hopefully the engine starts. :) Examine the engine compartment and make sure none of your cables are getting hot or are vibrating or shaking around. If they are vibrating too much you may need to relocate them or use more cable ties. If you see smoke, immediately shut off the car and disconnect the battery. Seek help. :)

19. Assuming all looks good, take a voltage reading at your amplifier and ensure you read 13.8 (or higher) volts. This indicates a properly operating charging system.

20. Now'd be a good time to turn it on and make sure it sounds good! Then of course log onto the12volt.com and post that you have upgraded your Big 3!

heres some more useful info i am running 2 gauge cable back to the back of the car to relocate the battery. i ran it inside of air line hose for physical protection.

when you connect these large type wires together,instead of crimping and soldering, you can use split bolt connectors
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4020042.jpg
these are a mechanical type connector, you insert all the wires into it,then you tighten the halves together.
you can get them in different sizes
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4020043.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4020046.jpg
after that,you wrap it in rubber insulating tape,this tape sticks to itself,you stretch it super tight over the connector,
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4020049.jpg
then you wrap the rubber tape with several layers of quality electrical tape. this is 3m tartan type tape. DON"T use the walmart special tape. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4020045.jpg
to hold down the wire and air hose over it,i used rubber insulated clamps,these attach with screws into the sheet metal. you don't want to use wire wraps for these heavy wires.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4020044.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4020048.jpg

Awesome info!

should be added to the DIY as a sticky

actually you should replace all stock grounds instead of adding to them, some of mine looked fine on the outside but had tons of oxidizion under the coating

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Originally Posted by xxxfrankensteinxxx

actually you should replace all stock grounds instead of adding to them, some of mine looked fine on the outside but had tons of oxidizion under the coating

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I think you need alittle more reading comprehension. Re-read the meaning of "The big three".

This is a recommended upgrade to your stock electrical grounds.

This only answers a basic question that alot of people need to understand about "upgrading ground wires" for better electrical performance.

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020050-2.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4020051.jpg

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4020052.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4020053.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4020054.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4020056.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4020057.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nswst8

I think you need alittle more reading comprehension. Re-read the meaning of "The big three".

This is a recommended upgrade to your stock electrical grounds.

This only answers a basic question that alot of people need to understand about "upgrading ground wires" for better electrical performance.

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lol im just gonna let this one slide

"This instruction is to add cables to existing OEM wiring."

That's why Frankenstein added that the OEM grounds should be replaced as well.

well part of the big three was running better power cables and ground to your audio equipment. hope my ideas help.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by xxxfrankensteinxxx

lol im just gonna let this one slide

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Not trying to slam anyone, especially you. But we are both correct.

In the definition it states that people relace or add to OEM grounds.

So I do apologize if I came across in a rude way.

Many thanks for any info thats helps this thread.

Nice post on the big-3.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bass Man

Nice post on the big-3.

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:thumbup: anyone know where i can get some nice 0 gauge wire like that at?
edit nvm found some on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/0-GAUGE-BLUE-POW...#ht_1286wt_832
:thumbup:

That's more like 2awg, but it should work under 2000watts RMS, or around 150 amprees.

yes that remind me i have to check out my electrical system my headlights now dim with my music so somethings recently fucked itself up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bass Man

That's more like 2awg, but it should work under 2000watts RMS, or around 150 amprees.

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sounds good i dont think ill be going over 2000RMS watts

A welding supply shop or Tractor supply will have welding wire in 0 gauge. It's high strand count, so it's very flexible. I prefer that to the wire you get in stereo kits.

yep a lot of people use it to do remote batteries, sometimes you can find extra unused cables at companies who do a lot of welding, they used to give them away but with the price of copper now, you'll probably have to pay a bit for them. on this subject, anyone got a set of those gold cart connectors laying around? the great big ones that connect the batteries to the cart? need a set to make up my jumper cables and the connector to plug them in.

I'm running all the stock wiring, minus the 0awg from the battery negative to the frame and the 0awg running to my amp, and I can play my Crunch PZi1600d at 1 ohm as loud as I can get it without bottoming out my subs, and it still doesn't realy dim my headlights. The ground wire really helped it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bass Man

I'm running all the stock wiring, minus the 0awg from the battery negative to the frame and the 0awg running to my amp, and I can play my Crunch PZi1600d at 1 ohm as loud as I can get it without bottoming out my subs, and it still doesn't realy dim my headlights. The ground wire really helped it.

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i cant even play my jvc deck over 18 without the radio turning on and off after a couple minutes if the car is off and all my lights flicker like crazy even when its running lol... the car originally had a 0awg ground wire to the trans but it was all corroded and green so i replaced it with a new 4awg wire and and a new 8awg from the valve cover to the fender as well... I'm going to be re doing all of them with that 0 gauge wire from ebay though now along with the alternator and power wire and the grounds will be ran to the frame instead of the fender bolts ... if that doesn't solve the problem then its time to replace the 240k old alt lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bass Man

Nice post on the big-3.

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I just watch the link video, nice. Thanks for adding to this thread.

Maxxsonics knows their stuff, and they got really cool customer support... hahaha

That almost sounds like an old battery, Blake.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bass Man

Maxxsonics knows their stuff, and they got really cool customer support... hahaha

That almost sounds like an old battery, Blake.

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yeah i was thinking the battery but i found a recept and its from april 08 and its a autozone redtop which alot of people said were damn good ...

I've been thinking of doing this for some time now. Found some wire in the tool box so this is on the to-do list for this weekend. Thanks for all the info guys!

You won't be sorry, easy and nessasary.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Civic Accord Honda

yeah i was thinking the battery but i found a recept and its from april 08 and its a autozone redtop which alot of people said were damn good ...

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Check the water level in it. I was having similar problems with my duralast (redtop from autozone) and after adding some water, its great.

distilled water only!

dude i want to do this thnx 4 the write up

Now that we have brought this to life, lets take it a step further.

I saw in one video from Youtube a shop just put the O awg positive wire under the alternator original wire. Leaving the original wire in place. What do you all think about this set up?

The other is an additional battery wired in paralell with the primary battery. What are the benifits?

I can't see any benefit a little 8awg wire will have along with a 0/1 wire other than resale. lol

As for the battery wiring, I don't think it will go to 24v, rather, double the amprage, but it's been a while since I checked that out. I know DB competitors like to run 8v batterys and make them 16v, I don't remember how, but I've seen a lot of dual battery setups that aren't 24v just because they were parrellel. (Example being jumper-cables.)