no clutter/weber

Anyone wanting a preview of how simple your engine will get once you decide to do a Weber carb swap.
I took this yesterday, I recently bought a 38/38 (no this is not it) and it came with a jetting kit. I rebuilt the JY carb I got a few months ago and decided to try it out on the LX which already had a DFEV. I had to move the makeshift linkage bracket to the left side since this DGV-5a has throttle on the opposite side.
Ignore the rigs,this is just temporary to try out the carb and have a good 32/36 to sell. Right away I noticed a big difference in how crisp the throttle is. Now that I have a jet kit I can experiment.
[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...1211403548.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...1211403531.jpg[/IMG]

You gotta love how open everything is and how much easier shit is to work on. Just curious whats with the tinfoil on the baseplates?

ok glad you asked dammit :flash:
:pc:

That IS NOT TINFOIL!, granted it may look like it. Ok I did a high heat epoxy bonding and consolidation of the adapter plates as someone else did on the forum long ago. Matter of fact I did that in 2006 and it still is holding up quite well. Anyway I was too hopped up on pain pills at the time right after surgury so I did not feel like finish sanding the epoxy,
:DThat is high heat furnace tape.

After removing the other carb and looking down in there yesterday, there is zero seepage or vacuum leaks. When I move that engine over to the other car I will make that look better.

Oh ok. Tanks for clarifying. Anxious to see the 38 on there and see what you think about the differences between the DGV and DGS carbs. I do like your modified carb linkage as well. :D

I love it. Can't wait to get my conversion done. I decided to wait until next week to get after it as I don't want to take the chance of not having my car for the holiday weekend.
Quick question though: when it rains my car throws water up onto the underside of the hood from the area of the belts. I'm concerned that I will be throwing water right into my air cleaner with the weber. Is there supposed to be a shield of some kind? Do you have this problem?
Sorry to sidetrack your thread alittle.

not at all, there is supposed to be a plastic shield inside the wheel well

I would find a way to tap the PCV to manifold vacuum. That's about the only thing I'd really change, other than the cleanup that you'll do to get everything "unrigged".

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Originally Posted by Vanilla Sky

I would find a way to tap the PCV to manifold vacuum. That's about the only thing I'd really change, other than the cleanup that you'll do to get everything "unrigged".

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The Pvc is on manfold vac, around the back.

Today I tore off all the OEM carb stuff on the DX. I am putting another manifold and weber on it. I got stuck though on the lower intake manifod bolts, dam those are tough, my hands and arms are all scratched up. I can't remember how I did the other car, I removed the intake with the head on it but then put it backon with the head mounted and it was not so bad. I got a snoot full again of how much bullish is on thes oem carby cars, those steel lines and maze of vac lines are beyond
r i d i c u l o u s... here is the carnage of what is being chunked...
[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...1212264091.jpg[/IMG]

I still do not have three lower intake nuts off, I may get crazy and yank the whole engine and put the B20 in that car instead. :chainsaw:

My advice is to scrap the carb instead of just junking it. I know most yards buy those things, and the last time I sold one, I got like $5. It at least pays for admission. I'd also keep a couple of those vacuum bottles around. They're nice to have if you ever need them.

You should be able to get those lower bolts with a 12mm socket, universal, and long extension; in that order. No doubt though they are a bitch.

Hmm, vacuum crap. The cans can be useful, and maybe some of the solenoids and check valves. The rest can be banished to the far reaches of hell. Burning it in effigy might be fun too.

C|

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Originally Posted by cygnus x-1

You should be able to get those lower bolts with a 12mm socket, universal, and long extension; in that order. No doubt though they are a bitch.

Hmm, vacuum crap. The cans can be useful, and maybe some of the solenoids and check valves. The rest can be banished to the far reaches of hell. Burning it in effigy might be fun too.

C|

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I have tryed every combination of extensions and sockets, no luck. I have to remove the oil separator and I can get it with a long gooseneck 12mm box end. MY back was killing me after wrestling with those middle three nuts for almost two hours, I was seeing stars so I had to quit, hated to though.
Yep I will hang on the the vac storage cans.
After knicking myself on some of that bracketry and really getting the overwhelming ideations of "what the HELLLLLLLLLLL,is this thing supposed to do , what the F x2 ?" speaking of the unknown items on the drivers side fenderwell, and all the trouble I went thru to get that metal vacuum line deal off intact in one piece with it's master... yes a ceremonious eniilation of the remains is in tall order cygnus x1:chainsaw:

update, ok I loosened the alternator and removed the belt, took out the adjuster hold down bolt and swung the alt all the way toward the firewall. This made it a lot easier to access all but one nut.
I got the weber 38 installed and only had one little test drive with it, very well worth it, all the diff in night and day in this car now. It was overwhelming how much more power it has and a ubber smooth idle ...very impressive. I also scrubbed and cleaned the whole engine compartment.
I did a wine cork mod on the air pulser thing to plug it off for the time being; the cork works quite well so far.(duct tape is temporary while the wine cork glue sets lol)
picture sucks I will take a better one and change in a little while, this is the DX
[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...1212441062.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...1212440978.jpg[/IMG]

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Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy

Oh ok. Tanks for clarifying. Anxious to see the 38 on there and see what you think about the differences between the DGV and DGS carbs. I do like your modified carb linkage as well. :D

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BIG difference, I like both but this 38 really woke up this other car, I swear it feels like I did a LOT LOT more than just swap manifold and carb. Adrenaline rush was when I got it out on the highway, words can't describe it. It made all the cuts on my arms and backache worth while. This carb was already tuned for a modifed Prelude using a wideband, I think I will just leave it like it is. I am sure now out of the box tuning is pretty generic and most people never know what their weber is really capable of. :bandit:

this one is for sale in the marketplace, DFEV , note this is not the same car, just the valve cover
[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...Picture016.jpg[/IMG]

I finished doing my 32/36 conversion on Friday night and got to drive it over the weekend. Big difference is an understatment! The car is so much smoother and more powerful. Not that I think I gain alot of hp but what is there is much more useable. Mine still smokes some but is much more managable than with the OEM carb.
Best part is I beat on it all weekend(100mi+-) and only used about 1/8 tank of fuel. Can't wait to get some real MPG numbers.

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Originally Posted by roodoo2

BIG difference, I like both but this 38 really woke up this other car, I swear it feels like I did a LOT LOT more than just swap manifold and carb. Adrenaline rush was when I got it out on the highway, words can't describe it. It made all the cuts on my arms and backache worth while. This carb was already tuned for a modifed Prelude using a wideband, I think I will just leave it like it is. I am sure now out of the box tuning is pretty generic and most people never know what their weber is really capable of. :bandit:

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Yeah man, I was gonna say it's probably pretty kickass having his carb on your car. Knowing that everything works and that it's all tuned properlike for your engine! You should get some video of your car pulling up and onramp!!!

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Originally Posted by roodoo2

BIG difference, I like both but this 38 really woke up this other car, I swear it feels like I did a LOT LOT more than just swap manifold and carb. Adrenaline rush was when I got it out on the highway, words can't describe it. It made all the cuts on my arms and backache worth while. This carb was already tuned for a modifed Prelude using a wideband, I think I will just leave it like it is. I am sure now out of the box tuning is pretty generic and most people never know what their weber is really capable of. :bandit:

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Cygnus-x1 did an excellent job of tuning this 38/38 and plenum porting of the manifold. I was thinking the whole time of that first test drive that my silly little silver four door DX gas saver didn't even seem like the same car, it was like I was driving Cygnus's car. It had taken on a whole new personna, yes I know that is wierd.

Ok, I drove THIS one to work today. Wow is all I can say once again. I was kinda pissed because traffic was so tight this morning so I couldn't do any full out running anywhere. I did though get to a point where I was on flat ground creeping in 5th gear at 40 mph, and I gave it just a little mash not even flooring it and it picked up to 75 in a matter of about two seconds without even downshifting. If you had driven my DX before that you would realize just how amazing that was. I am loving this carb, and even though it was tuned to a more modified engine I think it is pretty close to where it needs to be. I was on the interstate and just barely breathing on the gas pedal, MPG will improve I believe.
I have the jetting numbers wrote down so if any of you have 38 DGS you may want to try this set up. I will edit them in later unless you still have them Cygnus x1, I took it apart but I didn't change any thing, just took them all out and jotted them down at home. No leaks so far ! I am going to fix the pvc set up today, I will take some pics, I use a mopar v8 heater bypass hose to house the valve and run it around to the back, it worked pretty well on my other car.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...1212440978.jpg

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Originally Posted by roodoo2

Ok, I drove THIS one to work today. Wow is all I can say once again. I was kinda pissed because traffic was so tight this morning so I couldn't do any full out running anywhere. I did though get to a point where I was on flat ground creeping in 5th gear at 40 mph, and I gave it just a little mash not even flooring it and it picked up to 75 in a matter of about two seconds without even downshifting. If you had driven my DX before that you would realize just how amazing that was. I am loving this carb, and even though it was tuned to a more modified engine I think it is pretty close to where it needs to be. I was on the interstate and just barely breathing on the gas pedal, MPG will improve I believe.
I have the jetting numbers wrote down so if any of you have 38 DGS you may want to try this set up. I will edit them in later unless you still have them Cygnus x1, I took it apart but I didn't change any thing, just took them all out and jotted them down at home. No leaks so far ! I am going to fix the pvc set up today, I will take some pics, I use a mopar v8 heater bypass hose to house the valve and run it around to the back, it worked pretty well on my other car.

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I don't have the numbers offhand. They should be the same as what's in my last entry that Weber jetting post here. The air correctors might be off a step but that won't make a huge difference.

That was one cool thing about this carb. It cruises with just the tiniest bit of throttle.

C|

nice set up Guy....so when are we going to see the b20 in it?

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Originally Posted by MessyHonda

nice set up Guy....so when are we going to see the b20 in it?

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soon I hope, we are having a heat wave right now. I wanted to get the DX situated before I tear down the other car. Taking the least amount of risk having a good mpg car during this fuel price stuff.

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Originally Posted by roodoo2

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...1212440978.jpg

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I noticed in this picture that you don't have a pcv valve anymore and that you just plugged it up on the manifold. I went out a little bit ago, and tested to see if plugging that line up would do anything about my hi idle, and it did. Can I leave it that way, or do I need to take off that black box under the manifold?

The PCV valve does act as a sort of controlled vacuum leak. In my opinion PCV is one of the few emissions controls to keep, since it helps keep the oil clean and combats sludge buildup. Try putting a small diameter tube inline with the vacuum line to the PCV valve to restrict the flow some. That should keep it from being so much of a leak.

C|

I wish I had the money to convert my car to Webers. I have a set of DCOEs sitting, waiting for a rebuild. I just need the manifold, linkage, and air cleaners.

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Originally Posted by Vanilla Sky

I wish I had the money to convert my car to Webers. I have a set of DCOEs sitting, waiting for a rebuild. I just need the manifold, linkage, and air cleaners.

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Ok now you have something I want Vanilla Sky... I still have the laptop which works most of the time btw. :lol:

Turabaka you need to use PVC, I am still using it but I have the line routed from the back. The plastic housing that holds the actual valve tends to break, you can take off the whole tube from the top of the black box and service that part. I use a mopar 318 v8 heater by pass hose which is the same size and then trimmed up the hard plastic housing so there is a good fit and no vacuum leaks. PUt a new PVC valve in and use a vaccum source from the tee on the back of the intake. This mod makes it much easier (to me anyway) to deal with the pvc. ( IOU guys a pic of that, coming up)
You should not have any idle problems with the 38, this one has the smoothest idle ....it is freakishly smooth in fact. :rolleyes:

LOL, nah, I have a laptop now. I'm saving the pair of matched carbs for my car. I have 3 non-matched carbs that I'd imagine would work, but they aren't the same casting type. I got the whole lot of them for fixing another member's 3gee.

I would go the no clutter route, but i have fuel lines for each carb, choke stuff, vaccume lines that are needed, pcv lines,which are important in keeping your oil clean, plus i'm going to have to put in some vaccume valves to make the canister work right, no point in venting money(gas) to the air. I also have an oil cooler so i have all those lines and the brake booster lines.

no clutter ftw!

Got any new black box pics? I wanna see what it looks like because I know I have PVC leak and I wanna fix it when I get my weber put in...

no I dont but what I did was ensure the black box oil separator was intact and attached to the oil pan properly. Then I got a heater bypass hose for a mid 80's Dodge 318 (any model all same), this hose fits perfect on top of the black box and the top part is tapered slightley so you can use what is left of the pvc retainer piece (plastic) on the Honda (which usually cracks causing leaks). I run the hose thru the intake but not attached like it is oem. The Dodge hose can be pointed to where you cn best access it to deal with the pvc valve.