heres a pic of the bearings... im no mad scientist but i know these are gone.. am i right?
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/Image034.jpg
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heres a pic of the bearings... im no mad scientist but i know these are gone.. am i right?
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/Image034.jpg
:redx:
Pic no work...
sorry guys.. upload took a while.. i got the pic up now on my first post.. what do you guys think?
YesQuote:
Originally Posted by 1987AccordLx-i
ok so for sure these are gone.. how much would a set of these cost me? someone told me about 30 bucks for a set..
and another thing... would i have to resurface the crank or do something to it? it has faint indications of scratch marks.. idk if that would affect the new bearings
It all depends on how deep the scratches go, if the crank could be reground then you would just use a thicker set of bearings to take up the difference.
well the crank doesnt have any "feelable" scratches but visual there is some..Quote:
Originally Posted by nswst8
Then I would just pick up some new bearings and install.
Some slight scratches on the crank are probably ok unless you can feel them. You could also take to to a machine shop and ask what they think.
C|
Looks like somebody already patched it once, better have the crank checked.
that second one looks like really dirty oil or no oil, for a good while.
Definitely have a shop look at the crank regardless. Worst case, it can probably be just polished out. I would avoid grinding the crank, as I hear that you'll grind off the hardened surface that make the Honda cranks so wonderful. Another A20 crank can't be that expensive, especially seeing how there are like 138741309483194834 of them.
Well at the very least you want the correct size bearings on each crank journel. So the bearings you buy you need to use pasti guage and check the clearance on each bearing.
If the scratches don't catch a finger nail then I would just use very fine crokus cloth and polish the crank best you can.
Big thing is to find out why they wore out in the first place. Oil pressure would be my first check. Might want to replace the oil pump anyway alot of that bearing trash prolly went thru the pump.
wp
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord
Truer words were never spoken. Get ahold of the sizes the crank journals are supposed to be, and have someone with a micrometer measure them, in several direction. If the journals are still within the size tolerance, are not egged out or tapered, give them a light polish and re-install, using plastigauge as mentioned above. Also a good idea to have the rods checked for out of round, and re-sized if needed. An out of round rod won't hold the bearing shells properly, and the clearances won't be right.
Edit: BTW those bearings aren't spun, like the thread title indicates. Spun bearings occur when the bearing welds to the crank, and spins in the housing, mangling everything.
that from teh old engine?
well the crank has little... i would say microgrooves.. and i talked to a shop and they said as long as the grooves dont hit the bearings.. they will just fill up with oil and that wont bother the bearings.. hmm.. so this would just be worn bearings?Quote:
Originally Posted by guyhatesmycar
ok aside from this... im having problems with the braking system.. the pedal gets hard and it feels as though i have the e-brake on but its not on.. it happens every so often.. and my brakes heat up and its bugging the hell out of me.. any ideas? pressure problem? calipers/master cylinder? and another thing.. when under hard braking.. the rear locks up before the front does... is that normal?
My rear usually locks up before my fronts do as there is less weight in the rear. As far as pressure goes, I'd check the booster.
hmm and sometimes the rear gets really hot.. i cleaned out the drums so it stops alot better cuz of all the dust i got rid of.. highly recommended to clean out the drums.. so what would i look for on the booster? leaks?Quote:
Originally Posted by russiankid
Check to make sure the hose is not broken anywhere, but that would cause the engine to have a vacuum leak. Does the engine performance differ when this happens?Quote:
Originally Posted by 1987AccordLx-i
Also, I have rear disc brakes, so no drums here.
well.. i had an idling problem but i fixed that.. also i have a lack of low-end power.. but it feels as tho i have no vacum to the booster and the pedal gets hard.. and when driving it feels like i have the e-brake onQuote:
Originally Posted by russiankid
I'd check to make sure your e-brake is adjusted correctly. Check the shop manual on the test procedure for the brake booster. If I remember correctly, you need to turn the engine off, press the pedal in once and it should be easy. Second push is a bit harder, and the 3rd push is hard.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1987AccordLx-i
ebrake is good.. i can pull the ebrake half way up til it gets hard.. as far as the booster test.. ill do that in a while.. and ill let you konw whats up.. is it bad if its not what you said?Quote:
Originally Posted by russiankid
your booster could be leaking which would be a huge vaccume leak,this would account for the lack of power, look at the check valve also. pull it out,air should go through one way but not the other.
alright guys.. ill take a peek at the check valve and look for visible rust/corrosion on the booster and ill check for leaks in the vac line going to the booster.. ill let you guys know in the morningQuote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
brake update:
well both vac lines in front and behind the valve were cracked and worn.. changed them both and i have good braking now.. as far as the ebrake feeling.. thats still there.. ill check the pads later on and see if there seated properly
