more plumbing done

I'm running more AN lines behind the cowl area, I guess you could call it plumbing tucking if you want. wanted to clean up the oil distribution to the pressure gauge and to the pressure switch,.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4020083.jpg
the piece with the black boot is the pressure warning switch,it turns on the light at 20 psi. the other sender unit hidden back there,will go to the oil cooler, I can plug in an autometer gauge to give me pressure at the cooler high pressure side. pressure comes in at the firewall, then goes to the block and the switch, then through a bulkhead fitting into the interior. I have to run another one tomorrow for washer fluid coming into the cowl area. I wanted to clean up those lines also. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020084-1.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020085-1.jpg
everything from the oil filter adapter all the way to the gauge is all AN fittings. some of the extra lines you see by the fitting going in,are going to be removed,just haven't gotten rid of them yet. and yes I will be cleaning out that area back there with lots of simple green.
the round thing you see in there is the cap and the filler neck for the washer fluid tank inside the car.

if anyone has a sharp eye,you'll see nut plates on the front edge of where the cowling attaches, just like an airplane. that way i can use machine screws and washers to hold down the front edge.

This weekend simple green and a shop vac will be my best friends

this is a flare tool for 37 degree AN fittings, they are different then the 45 degree that you see a lot in auto parts stores.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020086-1.jpghttp://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020087-1.jpg

sweet, looks good. i like how the braided ss lines look vs. stock rubber hoses.

working on more and dammit i just stabbed myself with overbraid.

are you close to having it roadworthy other than the carb setup?

I could put it all back together, but I need to get all this small stuff done while it's apart. I plan on having it on the road by spring. I'm just taking my time to get all this stuff done,I just took a break for a while was all. We will be off for two weeks upcoming, so i plan on having the wiring done and the interior back in by the time we go back to work.

This project is almost done, I saw a cooler at the junkyard on a chevy that had much larger inlet lines, it's the same size as the one in the car now, I'm using a B&M transmission cooler but the lines are too small. all the lines are run right up to where they go down to the front of the car. I need to yank the bumper, and get all the old lines out. The only other thing I need to do is somehow locate a -8 straight fitting, The line from the pump to the resevoir is a high pressure aeroquip line, so it's a stiff line, the regular -8 line is much more flexible. I'm afraid i may damage the welds with the less flexible line. I have a box of 90's and plenty of dash eight line,but no straight fittings.http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020088-1.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020089-2.jpghttp://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020090-2.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020091-1.jpg

ok made the line for the back of the gauge it attaches to,no more plastic line EVER.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020092-1.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020093-1.jpg

Got the cooler off of some sort of undetermined GM product, does it matter? they are all the same lol. Any way it's draining right now, I have to flush it tomorrow, Have the fittings ready to tig weld on the existing tubes also. should be an easy install. I have one just like this in front of the condenser already, but it has smaller fluid lines, this one has the same footprint with larger lines.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4020094.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020095-1.jpg

how much that cost ya?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by labeledsk8r

how much that cost ya?

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nothing, i've been getting parts there for years

you should send me the cooler for my transmision, it is a bit of overkill for PS IMO. Nice looking cooler! PS coolers are usually about the size of a box of fire cheif wooden matches.
edit, my bad if that is a one by six board then I guess that is about the right size, My first glance Ithought it was a two by ten. LOL

i must say i had no clue what you were doing at first, but once i figured it out it looks awsome! You made your own sorta black box setup didnt ya.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by roodoo2

you should send me the cooler for my transmision, it is a bit of overkill for PS IMO. Nice looking cooler! PS coolers are usually about the size of a box of fire cheif wooden matches.
edit, my bad if that is a one by six board then I guess that is about the right size, My first glance Ithought it was a two by ten. LOL

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I have the other one i'm taking off, it's a ford transmission cooler. it just has lines too small for proper power steering fluid flow. this system doesn't have a lot of pressure through the cooler but it has a lot of volume. when you are below 15 miles an hour the speed valve is closed and all the rack fluid return,goes through the cooler. When a cooler is too small, the fluid gets restricted. if you took the factory cooling loop and made it into a plate and fin cooler, it would be huge. I got it for free because I happen to know the right rednecks. The beer,coon dog,nascar,and weekend constellations happened to be lined up right at the time.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 2drSE-i

i must say i had no clue what you were doing at first, but once i figured it out it looks awsome! You made your own sorta black box setup didnt ya.

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what i've done so far is replace the factory plastic PS resevoir with the aluminum one i've made out of the canteen. it's all installed except for the cooler, the other stuff behind the cowl,is the block that distributes oil pressure to my pressure switch and then to my gauge in the car . it's all hidden up behind the cowl,this way all you see is one nice braided line going to the bulkhead fitting on the firewall. I'm also rerouting the washer fluid lines from the tank in the car, this way they are hidden. the other piece in the cowl is the filler neck for the washer fluid tank,it runs through a braided line into the tank in the car. you can access the cap when you open the hood. everything thinks the tank is in the cowl,when it's actually in the passenger footwell. just running decent braided lines instead of the cheap rubber lines like factory.

This project is almost done, I saw a cooler at the junkyard on a chevy that had much larger inlet lines, it's the same size as the one in the car now, I'm using a B&M transmission cooler but the lines are too small. all the lines are run right up to where they go down to the front of the car. I need to yank the bumper, and get all the old lines out. The only other thing I need to do is somehow locate a -8 straight fitting, The line from the pump to the resevoir is a high pressure aeroquip line, so it's a stiff line, the regular -8 line is much more flexible. I'm afraid i may damage the welds with the less flexible line. I have a box of 90's and plenty of dash eight line,but no straight fittings.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by clint999

This project is almost done, I saw a cooler at the junkyard on a chevy that had much larger inlet lines, it's the same size as the one in the car now, I'm using a B&M transmission cooler but the lines are too small. all the lines are run right up to where they go down to the front of the car. I need to yank the bumper, and get all the old lines out. The only other thing I need to do is somehow locate a -8 straight fitting, The line from the pump to the resevoir is a high pressure aeroquip line, so it's a stiff line, the regular -8 line is much more flexible. I'm afraid i may damage the welds with the less flexible line. I have a box of 90's and plenty of dash eight line,but no straight fittings.

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um and......:nervous:

I don't know if i will get out there tonight or not, cleaned a lot of my garage up so i can actually get to my car. I changed the hose adaptor on the blower unit today, and i'm ready to put in the washer fluid line. didn't get the cooler in,primarily because i didn't have the space to pull the front bumper. cleaning up the mess should help this situation.

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020098-1.jpg

nice. and what is this again? tranny or ps cooler?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by snoopyloopy

nice. and what is this again? tranny or ps cooler?

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power steering,someday when i get a nice tranny rebuild i will build a fluid cooling and circulation system, pegasus racing has a really nice electric pump setup for just that, moves about 2 gallons a minute. plus a cartridge filter. no telling how long a manual with cool filtered oil would last.

Have you had problems with power steering overheating? At autocross or something?

As for cooling a tranny, unless it's overheating, it's probably not a good idea. Just like running engine oil too cold is not a good idea.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 86AccordLxi

Have you had problems with power steering overheating? At autocross or something?

As for cooling a tranny, unless it's overheating, it's probably not a good idea. Just like running engine oil too cold is not a good idea.

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I replaced the huge loop honda cooler line a long time ago, the cooler i was using was too small though and was restricting the power steering return. this one is exactly the same size,just with bigger internal passages. the factory cooler is actually huge compared to a lot of cars.

The ps fluid in my sohc ka-t never came close to overheating, even with 235mm azenis at really tight autocrosses. That's with no ps cooling at all.

The majority of the drift guys don't have ps coolers either, and they overstress their powersteering like whoa.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 86AccordLxi

Have you had problems with power steering overheating? At autocross or something?

As for cooling a tranny, unless it's overheating, it's probably not a good idea. Just like running engine oil too cold is not a good idea.

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if i add a transmission cooler it will be controlled by a thermostat. same as with the engine oil cooler, i'm going to wait until I can get the miloden thermostat. if the oil is below 180 it just circulates up to the thermosat and back to the engine. it doesn't start to go to the cooler until it's over 180.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 86AccordLxi

The ps fluid in my sohc ka-t never came close to overheating, even with 235mm azenis at really tight autocrosses. That's with no ps cooling at all.

The majority of the drift guys don't have ps coolers either, and they overstress their powersteering like whoa.

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well the loop was in the way, all i did was replace the factory one with a smaller more compact one, normally when the speed valve is closed below 15 miles an hour, all the fluid goes through the rack and then through the cooler,if it's above 15 a lot of the fluid just bypasses the rack and straight back to the resevoir.

I see.

I guess I just never considered a 3g needing so much auxiliary cooling (if any), except *maybe* an oil cooler for some of the turbo cars on here. With 185/195s, even without cooling I can't imagine ps fluid overheating, or even trannies.

I changed everything over to braided line and AN,because I got sick of the rubber hoses always leaking. plus the fluid covered hoses and 20 year old plastic resevoir looked like ass. When I came back from the florida meet, one of the factory hoses sprung a leak and coated the bottom of the car with PS fluid, this was on the florida turnpike.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 86AccordLxi

I see.

I guess I just never considered a 3g needing so much auxiliary cooling (if any), except *maybe* an oil cooler for some of the turbo cars on here. With 185/195s, even without cooling I can't imagine ps fluid overheating, or even trannies.

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normally when the pump is working hard all the fluid travels back from the rack to under the resevoir,to one side of that metal line, all the way across the front of the car,makes a loop and all the way back. then it goes back to the resevoir. the long metal line acts like a cooler. it's like you unwound a tube and fin cooler and stretched it across the front end of the car

Yeah, I know that problem all too well.

From what I've heard and experienced, you're not really supposed to reuse those stock clamps once you you break them open. Replacing them with worm-gear clamps is highly recommended, and I've done that with all buy one clamp on my car.

edit: Yes, I know how a stock cooling loop works, but I see even that as overkill for a ps system that is probably woefully understressed.

the other reason i went to all this much trouble,is to convert the entire system over to braided line. the main thing that concerns me is the 22 year old high pressure line right over the exaust manifold. There have been several fires on here due to that hose going bad. I'm taking a factory hose,cutting off the metal ends,and tig welding those to steel AN adaptors. then I can run aeroquip power steering hose on the high pressure side. as far as the oil cooler, it's set up to operate only when needed. I don't want to cool the oil way down,just stabilize the oil temp when it's a hundred degrees and i'm stuck in traffic. A properly designed oil cooler system will help keep the properties of your oil the same all through the oils life cycle between changes. they are proven to be very benificial,just most people don't want to screw with them.

some more stuff done ,about to finish up under the dash area. inside of the cowl area, i just ran the bulkhead fitting for the washer fluid. all i need to do is run the tube down to the other end. You can see the antenna hidden in there,it will come up through the cowl, and through a small hole in the back edge of the hood. I have an interlock system with the hood pin switch, it won't move with the hood raised, and if i pop the hood it retracts.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4020099.jpg
picture of the oil cooler,i will change those fittings on the top of it to straight ones later, i was just fitting it in there.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020100-1.jpg
better picture of the radiator resevoir tank.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020101-1.jpg
I removed the AC condenser, ac is junk anyway, hasn't worked in a decade. this is the heater box side of the adaptor, it connects to the heater blower with 3 inch silicone hose
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020103-1.jpg
oil pressure bulkhead fitting and washer fluid bulkhead fitting
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020106-2.jpg
this is the blower end where the hose goes, the adaptor is a really hard nylon material with an aluminum tube.
sorry if it's blurry, it's hard to take a picture upside down
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020107-2.jpg
what i've been staring at all week
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020108-2.jpg

Ok first coolant hose about to be replaced, this is the one from the cyl head to one side of the heat control valve, i wanted to run all braided line, but there has to be some small pieces of rubber hose to the heat control valve. my solution is simple,run braided line to the firewall,drop it down to near the heater with a down pipe,and connect to the valve. but i never do anything half ass.


first attempt at the down pipe, was fine, was cleaning up the welds and the tool caught a weld. FAIL
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4020111.jpg
second piece, split clamp with two pieces, was fine, was drilling the holes,part slipped in the mill and the cutter gouged across the surface. turned it down some more, then it was too thin for the threads. FAIL
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020112-1.jpg

third attempt, had a two piece clamp for holding the PS and AC hoses over the manifold, it's obsolete now because I got rid of the AC, hacked it in half with a cut off wheel in the angle grinder, it fit,so i machined it down at work.
I made the down pipe from a solid piece of aluminum I bored out, then threaded it to 1/2 NPT threads. yop piece is an AN adaptor with a reducer, bottom had to use a brass street elbow to get the connection I wanted, goes to a barb fitting for the heater hose. I didn't need to use the bend,I rotated the entire thing, and used a piece of existing heater hose. the two studs get nuts at the inside of the firewall. not sure about the other part of the heater hose yet,i need to measure it, if it's a standard diameter, i can use a compression fitting after cutting off the flare. I hope it's just a little big,thenm i can machine out the brass ferule to make it work.

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020110-2.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020118-1.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020109-1.jpg

oh the wingnut was just to hold it together to test it

ok the cowl cover is ready to go back on,everything is tight. I'm putting nut plates on the back hold down holes now,no more plastic fasteners.
back of cowl cover, i have all the weatherstripping on
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...D681DAC107.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...4493F788D3.jpg
all plumbing is in and the antenna is in
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...A4561A591B.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...ccord/fail.jpg

i'm working on it cah,photofuckit freezed my computer even after clearing cookies and emptying the browser catch, looking for another host. they have so many ads it just screws everything up.

Imageshack? lol

ok they are up

ok the pieces for the cooling system are done, thanks to Davie Maule for help with the TIG welding.
[b]this is the water pipe out of the cyl head, I had to fabricate a steel piece with 1/2 npt threads that went over the end of this,and got welded on. I also took a nut,bored out the threads,and pressed it over the piece,then welded it on. this will give me a way to screw it back in. All the other eighties hondas i saw had water pipes with hexes to screw them in. except this car. had to take it out with a pipe wrench.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020128-2.jpg
cut one of the welded on pieces off of the water pipe, again, changed it to a 1/2 inch npt, I think the smaller threads were too small and would have restricted water going to the heater core.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020136-1.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4020137.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020138-1.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020135-1.jpg]
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020139-1.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020140-2.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...th_welding.jpg

So lets just say all that plumbing stuff ands about 180hp to the wheels right?

for some reason it smells like :rice: in here.

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Originally Posted by OldSkoolA20accord

So lets just say all that plumbing stuff ands about 180hp to the wheels right?

for some reason it smells like :rice: in here.

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why does real aeroquip stuff smell like rice? i'm getting rid of some of the rubber hoses and replacing them with something functional. when is the last time you saw a ricer actually fabricate something? if they were overbraid they would be rice,these are the real deal. if you have ever fought with the cooling hoses on one of these cars, you would understand why i'm changing them. I plan on driving the piss out of this car when it's done, i want something ultra reliable. I have a shitload of the eighties style aeroquip fittings and adaptors, and rolls of hose,might as well use them. it has nothing to do with horsepower it's reliability. when things get a little bit better on money i will finish the dual carbs project, now that will add horsepower

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lostforawhile

why does real aeroquip stuff smell like rice? i'm getting rid of some of the rubber hoses and replacing them with something functional. when is the last time you saw a ricer actually fabricate something? if they were overbraid they would be rice,these are the real deal. if you have ever fought with the cooling hoses on one of these cars, you would understand why i'm changing them. I plan on driving the piss out of this car when it's done, i want something ultra reliable. I have a shitload of the eighties style aeroquip fittings and adaptors, and rolls of hose,might as well use them.

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Dude im just joking with you. Its cool. i just cant believe you converted everything. lol. And i had the damn p/s line explode all over the exhaust manifold. I plan on doing exactly what you are doing when im done my swap. I think its cool you actually make your own stuff then just buy it. and that you didnt come back at me with a super huge attitude. lol

good job man. When you puttin those dual carbs on? is the engine stock?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by OldSkoolA20accord

Dude im just joking with you. Its cool. i just cant believe you converted everything. lol. And i had the damn p/s line explode all over the exhaust manifold. I plan on doing exactly what you are doing when im done my swap. I think its cool you actually make your own stuff then just buy it. and that you didnt come back at me with a super huge attitude. lol

good job man. When you puttin those dual carbs on? is the engine stock?

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it's ok, i will finish the carbs when the money situation gets beter. we just closed indefinitly. i think everyones projects are on hold. yea I found on the power steering that even with new clamps the dam fluid still seeps out everywhere,it's synthetic,thats probably why . i think i put a stop to the leaks. the engine isn't stock at all,it's been so long i can't even remember what i did to it anymore.

Can you convert the p/s lines to braided? I wanted to do that to my car. along with an oil cooler. It would suck spending 3 months doing a hardashell swap and then having to go back in becuase a p/s line busted or somthing like that. lol

I was going to put a p/s cooler on just for shits and giggles.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by OldSkoolA20accord

Can you convert the p/s lines to braided? I wanted to do that to my car. along with an oil cooler. It would suck spending 3 months doing a hardashell swap and then having to go back in becuase a p/s line busted or somthing like that. lol

I was going to put a p/s cooler on just for shits and giggles.

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i just sent you a pm, you can't use regular line,but you can use aeroquip power steering line. i'm going to cut stock ends off of a hose then tig weld on AN adaptors to those ends,then you just run the line between the adaptors. just like i did with the inlet fitting on the pump. the aeroquip PS hose runs about 60 bucks for 6 feet and you have to use steel hose ends not aluminum because of the pressure.

only minor problem i see right now is the advance hits the nut on the tube, i'll just tighten it up,then grind the corner of the nut where it hits, the nut is welded all the way around,so i can just use a box end to tighten it. that nut isn't something that will be used every day, just to tighten up the outlet tube.

ok lots more done,the dam down pipe for the water is FINALLY in. what a son of a bitch to get just right. on top of that the studs came out behind the heater box,so i had to put the nuts on by feel. then use a bunch of extensions and swivels to tighten them. this is the first braided hose. I already have the water pipe done,and the thermostat housing. just waiting on some gaskets. those two ugly hoses behind the braided one will be braided too of course. the vaccume advance is STILL hitting the water pipe,so more grinding tomorrow.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020142-2.jpghttp://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020143-1.jpghttp://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020144-2.jpghttp://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020145-1.jpg

cut the end off of the original PS hose at the pump,going to mig weld on a steel AN fitting on to the steel part that goes to the pump, the line wasn't leaking,but i just can't trust a 23 year old high pressure lihe,going over the exaust manifold. i've put too much work into that engine bay to risk a fire to save a few bucks. one thing i noticed,the line looked ok on the outside,but the inside was badly dry rotted. it's a steel line about a quarter inch in diameter wrapped in there. I will tell anyone if you care about your accord,replace that line if it's old. there are places that will make you a line,or you can get an aftermarket one. there have been a number of fires on here related to that line spraying PS fluid on the manifold. personally i think they were idiots for running it where they did. I'm sure there were a lot more fires then what we know about here. did they think that lines never go bad?

ok cut off the metal piece of hose where it comes out of the fitting with the o ring, drilled the pipe thread side of a steel AN adaptor to half inch inside diameter, everything just clears, tomorrow that fitting gets welded to the piece that goes to the pump. then later i'll do the end that attaches to the rack. this way when i'm ready for the hose,i can cut it exactly to the length i need and add the two hose ends. i already had the steel adaptors i'm using and i made all the other stuff, so the expense isn't much more then what a new hose would be. just six feet of aeroquip PS hose and two steel high pressure ends.

No doubt. To me it would have been easier to run it down under the engine, without the risk of fire but w/e. Mine was definately spitting p/s fluid on my manifold a while back. I would pop the hood and see my manifold flaming. Decided then it was time to change it lol.

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020233-2.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 2drSE-i

No doubt. To me it would have been easier to run it down under the engine, without the risk of fire but w/e. Mine was definately spitting p/s fluid on my manifold a while back. I would pop the hood and see my manifold flaming. Decided then it was time to change it lol.

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the hose inside of the outer wrapping is just a spiral wrapped piece of metal like the outer wrap on the cables. I think what happens is it starts leaking internally then it degrades the stuff wrapped around it until it starts spraying fluid. i wasn't about to save this 23 year old hose. it looks new on the outside but really bad internally.

Hella pimp man!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz

Hella pimp man!

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thanks, even if i end up having to run it like factory,at least it will be aeroquip hose, which is much better then anything oem, and if it goes over that manifold,it's going to have fire braid over the hose. i really would like to run it over the valve cover and back down like the civics do. i may put a dash eight end on my roll of dash eight line just to see how it will run over everything.

i'm thinking of unplumbing the vaccume nightmare this weekend. then i can get a lot of this stuff run where i need to run it. really thinking of a remote oil filter vs the sandwitch adaptor. will make it a lot eaisier to run the cooler also,and make it eaisier to change the oil.

forgot to add the radiator hose standoff to this one http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020227-2.jpg

you got a real talent man for plumbing , i think ur hella good at it . u should evantully try to attack all the fuel lines and cooling hoses

all the cooling hoses are braided now,except for the radiator hoses,mostly due to the cost of the fittings and line, plus hard to replace on the road. the other stuff is all two sizes.so i carry spares. the remote oil filter is mounted,now im waiting on the piece that screws on to the old filter location. this filter is huge,this means less restriction, and more oil in the system. more capacity is always a good thing.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020139-2.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020141-3.jpg
the aproximate location of the hoses,they still need to be shortened of course. I will add in the thermostat and lines for the cooler later as money allows. made the bracket today at lunch. the only thing i need to relocate this time is the canister on the firewall. and i need to add a gusset to the bracket that used to hold the air controller.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020140-3.jpg

when i get time i'll get in there and remove all the old unused ac lines and the excess unused wiring right now i'm getting parts to fit,once thats done i will clean up everything

is yopur computer hardout watercooled, cause all this work your doing looks like you would do a mean job if you did come watercool my computer any day

here is the bracket painted,ready to go in. I did some work with a ball end mill and a contour mill, hard to see the details in the picture http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...g?t=1236307392

No disrespect Lost, but have you ever seen old movie "Back to the Future"? I know You build that car, so you can go back to 1986-89 and get us some nice goodies and new Accords ;)

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Originally Posted by Tomisimo

No disrespect Lost, but have you ever seen old movie "Back to the Future"? I know You build that car, so you can go back to 1986-89 and get us some nice goodies and new Accords ;)

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i would but with the terrorists,it's really really hard to get my hands on plutonium to power the flux capacitor. anyway,more engine porn. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...g?t=1236396659

finally fixed the oil filter adaptor, the piece that went to the hoses, wouldn't screw all the way down becase the threads on the filter end were too long,had to remove the filter piece from the block, machine about a 1/4 off the threads so it screws down. the inside of the filter adaptor was terrible looking also. the transition between it and the threaded pieces was a sharp edge, so it required some work to smooth out the oil flow passages. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020225-2.jpg

i am ready to see this thing come alive.. :D

Im ready to see this thing in person!

dammit i need a dash 8 45 degree end well this puts this part on hold for a few weeks

Tim I need to send you those P/S line fittings, I forgot all about it.
PM me your Address and I'll get them out to you.

update

Ok i've got the fuel filter, it's a summit street strip filter, it turned out to be a lot bigger then I thought it was ,but it fits under there. on the hatch just ahead of the drivers side rear tire, there's two threaded holes on the frame rail,with nuts welded inside of the frame. I ended up making a bracket and welding the supplied bracket to it. I need to change one bolt hole, and drill and tap for two others in the rail, the two 10mm bolts would probably hold it fine, but i want two extra's for security. I have an extra pump hanger bracket,so I'll braze an AN fitting on instead of the barbed fitting. then it will be hard line from pump to filter, then new hard line inside of the car itself.

pictures are coming in just a minute i'm uploading now

I started out making a plate that fit the frame rail bolt holes, I started with basic blue tape, I covered the frame rail with tape, then punched holes with a pencil for the bolt holes, after I did this, i marked the edges of the frame rail, and how much to add to the template. After this very rough estimate, i used it to create a cardboard template with the proper dimensions and bolt holes ,i left the cardboard template at work so no picture.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4021259.jpg
pattern transferred to steel ready to cut
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4021251.jpg
shearing the steel into the proper pattern
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4021252.jpg
supplied bracket clamped to new piece and ready to weld
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4021254.jpg
spot welding the two pieces together
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4021255.jpg
bracket on bottom of car, i need to relocate one bolt hole to move the filter more towards the frame rail
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4021256.jpg
filter in place, it sits at about the same level as the tank and right next to it, I'll fabricat a shield but this filter housing is much tougher then the gas tank sheet metal
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4021258.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4021257.jpg

I'll be replacing the line from pump to firewall, the pump has the capacity to support more horsepower but the line is just big enough for the factory Keihin, it wasn't necessary to make it bigger, I was just wondering if the tiny line is limiting the power capability of the webber equipped cars, i mean it's really small, and after a quarter century probably is well gummed up.

just run some sea foam through the lines. and u gotta remember that a stock honda fuel system is good up to 400hp.(excluding the pump and injectors)
but u are carbed so.. eh...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tdurr

just run some sea foam through the lines. and u gotta remember that a stock honda fuel system is good up to 400hp.(excluding the pump and injectors)
but u are carbed so.. eh...

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yea the carbed lines are tiny, stock system might be good on a modern honda but not on these

I guess I could just run stainless line along the inside of the frame rail under the car, corrosion is not a problem here, no road salt and it would be way eaisier then running it in the car.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lostforawhile

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4020233-2.jpg

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LOL that pipe looks like a penis :lol: :lol:

OK the fuel filter is finally mounted under the car, I had to relocate one of the holes for the bracket, as I had to move the bracket back some. Since I already had one good mounting hole, I put masking tape over the frame rail, poked a hole in it where the threaded hole was, then put some VHT double sided tape on the masking tape. I just lined up the good hole with a bolt, pressed the bracket to the frame, and pulled it back off, this left the tape attached to the bracket, all I had to do then, was center punch the hole and drill it. I'm sorry the pictures suck, I don't have an LCD on my camera anymore, so i can't see what i'm taking a picture of http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4021336.jpg

hole transferred to bracket

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4021329.jpg

filter
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4021328.jpg
threaded holes in frame rail
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4021331.jpg
bracket bolted to frame rail
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4021332.jpg
and filter mounted
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4021335.jpg

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4021338.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...S4021258-1.jpg

i thot it had a screen on it? oh well I tried...

roodoo thats a redneck film camera that has a screen door for the film. I just got the fitting brazed onto the fuel pump hanger, this is a great idea if you are converting to FI from carb, all you have to do is cut off the barb, then it's a letter size drill to drill the pipe thread side of the fitting. it taps right into place, then you braze or silver solder it. all you would have to do extra is use a bulkhead fitting with a hole drilled in the hanger top for a return line. the bulkhead fittings seal with an O ring. this would allow you to use any aftermarket FI pump that fits. as far as lines, you would need to run one pressure line, which you can run with double wall steel line, and flare fittings. you can use the old carb hard line as a fuel return line. you just need to change all the rubber hose to FI rated hose with FI clamps. I can't remember what the letter size drill was, but I'll post it tomorrow.This would prevent having to change the tank to convert to FI. I did this since my filter is AN and I can run braided line to the filter. I'm going to run a return line as well using the old line, the reason I'm doing this, is I'm running a regulator, if you make a fitting with a very small orifice, it will constantly bleed some pressure back to the tank, this keeps pressure from creeping behind the regulator and gives you a more steady pressure. also as the gas in the tank warms up on a hot day it can affect the output pressure of the regulator,this prevents this.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4021343.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4021344.jpg

When i get this running , I need to replace the fuel pump,it was sitting in the gas that went bad in the tank,so it's toast, I want to put in a good Bosch pump, I've been through too many cheap pumps. this was an old hanger, it looked really bad, but once i blasted it it was much better then it appeared. I guess I could coat it with epoxy paint, but eventually that will dissolve.

well I've been out there messing with it all day, and I FINALLY got that stupid power steering pressure line out, I cut the metal part with the flare off of the rest of the hose, and I need to braze an AN fitting on to it, and get it back in, I wanted to run the hose over the valve cover, but it's looking impossible, I'm probably going to run hard line all the way around the passenger side almost to the front, then use a length of -8 power steering hose. it has to be 3/8 double wall steel, no aluminum in the PS fittings, they just aren't designed for the pressure. it was really fun fishing out that line out from around all the lines under the hood, I forgot the oil pressure lines run right in front of it. and who is the idiot who put the clamps where you can't reach them. pictures later