Tomisimo's Black.87.Sedan B20a Build Thread

I guess this is time I get my self one of those threads, to keep everything in order. I start with simple photoshoot and a bit of history to this car.

The car is all original 87 model and gone 162k mils, no changes to it over the years, it even had original fire extinguisher in it. It was imported from Belgium in 89 and were originally sold for 649.000 German marks in its day, I even have a resit for it. Since 89 it was rolling in south Norway around Oslo whole its life, I was surprised to see so little rust on it as it is, because they salt those roads down there like crazy. There is one hole in the trunk on passenger side and small bubble rust here and there, but overall good. Car were never involved in any accidents after I checked car fax. its clean.. and Now I'm a proud owner of this good example.

At the moment I swap A20a4 in it because my B20a2 had timing belt snapped so some valves are bent and what not. Anyways I was going to rebuild that engine, Have some plans for it but I dont going to shout about it before I do them. But head will be reworked for sure.

Here are a little photoshoot.
Exterior.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde004-2.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde015-1.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...a/Bilde017.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde016-1.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde005-4.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde007-3.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde003-3.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde014-1.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde011-3.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde009-3.jpg

Interior
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde012-1.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...r/Bilde025.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...r/Bilde033.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...r/Bilde034.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...r/Bilde028.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...r/Bilde031.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3.../Bilde26-1.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...r/Bilde038.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...r/Bilde027.jpg

that's really nice :) i love that spoiler! you should put it in a box and ship it to me lol. what's happening with your other car?

and some engine pics.

while I work on it.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...s/Bilde015.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...s/Bilde019.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...s/Bilde018.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...s/Bilde000.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...s/Bilde001.jpg
huh, kill switch on black box :/
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...s/Bilde005.jpg
and soon to be this
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...9102007008.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...9102007002.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by A18A

that's really nice :) i love that spoiler! you should put it in a box and ship it to me lol. what's happening with your other car?

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I haven't decided yet if I will keep that spoiler or not. I like it but then I hate it so only time will tell, but if I will take it off I'll let you know, as long as you pay shipping its yours.

about other car? well, I will part it and then I guess it will go to JY if I don move, because my landlord dont like the idea of to many cars here.

minter, i cant find any spoilers like that over here except on mitsubishis (maybe i just haven't been looking hard enough) lol. I wish i could have that bonnet from your other car, i want angry eyes on mine :P

I can send you my bonnet, if you send me 86-87 vigor trunk lid :D

is the fixed front headlights the same from europe to NZ? Maybe its the black but the front looks different to moe. Its like its taller and the center section is more narrow than aarons car per say. The spioler is tits man whoever gets it will have a great looking ass thats for sure.

Thats a very legit setup man. wtf kill switch on the black box LOL cuts all the vacum huh? LOL

Awesome car - plz don't hack it up too much - perfect as-is. Tint, Slam, wheels (gunmetal) and its perfect!! BTW bad ass wrench set! ;D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rendon LX-i

Thats a very legit setup man. wtf kill switch on the black box LOL cuts all the vacum huh? LOL

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no, it bolted to black box, and tru it and in to alarm speaker. on the bottom there was sensor glued on black box. I believe it was a kill switch that locks all power in the car besides it self. it was quiet complex alarm. I think original install as its wired under the dash not with iso-tape but heat hoses that shrink when heated, and everything hidden with the rest of wiring under there.

Used like 2 hours just to remove all wiring from under the hood alone, but under the dash it just have to wait until opportunity when I will install new alarm later on.

Mike it it a lens illusion, those first 2 photos are made by seller, I thought of that too. But its still the same car as other members in NZ have. and also my car is on stock springs so its seems taller.

ChillyPhil, chilling? well yes, have new KYBs with B&G drop springs 1.6" and wheels also. just havnt put them on yet. And as the tint goes, it will have to wait until I find new front windows, my are with scratches after 23 year abuse.

the only ugly part of that car is the rear i reckon, cause your number plates are so damn big it looks a little strange. vigor rear end would look tops but you will have to mount your number plate in your bumper somehow.
still interested in the corner lights? they wont go anywhere in a hurry

That is one clean car, I can't wait to watch the progress.

sweet...get that b20 on the road

Some updates. today I'm going to get engine lift from one guy I know, so soon I will be taking that engine out and put in a A20 in it asap. just to have my car rolling.

Aaron, yes I'm still interested in those corners, and I'm thinking of getting original Vigor trunk lid. as for the rear bumper goes, was considering to use Aerodeck bumper as parts donor, cut out numberplate piece and welt it in to this original bumper so I think that, that problem is solved. And if you can find SuperStage Accord there for side moldings. Want those with chrome in them and mirrors with chrome. Well I need to plan my expenses carefully if I'm to make it happen.

Thanks guys I like it too, really clean car for its age. As far as that B20 goes, it will be on the road as soon as I'm rebuild it :) Cant wait my self actually.

Very nice car Tom! Looking forward to seeing your progress.

The car is looking great Tom.
Your making fast progress on it and cant wait to see pics of the work done on it as time goes by.

Sweet!

c'mon man, hurry up with that downgrade swap!

The new one looks great Tom, keep it clean.

My take on that rear spoiler is: KEEP IT.

Is that rear window shade an OEM thing?

I'm setting back because of bad weather here.. rain and wind but I made some progress. Decided to take the head of and see whats what under there, but as soon as I got in to that I run at another problem, those tree nuts that are underneath the intake manifold are hard to come near with regular tools. its so tight there.
We, me and Mark D are on AIM figuring this one out. One proposition is to take whole head with intake out and then get it of or what else?

but anyhow, here are few pics for you. Enjoy

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3.../Bilde0001.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3.../Bilde0011.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3.../Bilde0031.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3.../Bilde0041.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3.../Bilde0051.jpg
Covered it against dust and such
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3.../Bilde0061.jpg
and one sad lill pic. Tragic picture...
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde000-1.jpg

o thats pretty simple well only if you have the swivel adapter that connects to an extension or the socket wrench jus look at the site below its basically the same concept jus with wrenches but if u already got them off then:rockon:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21P8XHY7S4L.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tomisimo

We, me and Mark D are on AIM figuring this one out. One proposition is to take whole head with intake out and then get it of or what else?

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swear lots & lots & lots, and those other nuts will come off. worked for me lol. good progress & your original accord looks sad :( it's supposed to look angry, not sad :P

Quote:

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Originally Posted by A18A

swear lots & lots & lots, and those other nuts will come off. worked for me lol. good progress & your original accord looks sad :( it's supposed to look angry, not sad :P

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true! i think its the flat spare that does it! lol

Yea I swear alot and have scraped some of my skin on my hands as well then I swear some more.. But yea, I got that that I need a swivel but I dont have one, maybe I will make a visit to my local hardware store and see there.

Yes my old Accord looks sad, but I think its angry right now. It didnt wanted to start yesterday until I sweet talk to it. lol

Take the whole head out with the intake. it's a LOT easier to do.

Well I managed to take the head off today, in small 4 hour window before it started to pore rain again. I was shocked when I seen whats in there..

well look for your self :(

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1244207839
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1244207899
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1244207935
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1244207950
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1244207970
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1244207993
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1244208027
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1244208044

Almost all exhaust valves are bent and few intake valves. But anyways, the pistons had so much coal on them that I dont see any other choice than to rip it apart and rebuild the whole engine. Its just no point to change valves and guides and leave everything like it is.
By that means, my A20 is going in soon, so I can drive it at least...
Feels like crap, because on 40$ belt can do so much damage... :hmph:

Damn :(
makes me wonder what mine looks like inside

hrmmm......

man that motors not looked after whatsoever i see why u asked me for a new one lol

just sell him a head eh man.
prob cheaper to ship one to him than recon the thing.
bad luck tommi, duz suck a bit snapping a belt

yeah, if I'm not mistaken, the white (H) valves are the intakes, and by the looks of the pics, they're all shot b/c they all look to have touched down on the pistons. All of the Exhaust valves look good though based on the pics.

....but the bad news. All of the pistons have made contact, and therefore, I would replace all pistons too if I were you. ...or at least get all the carbon off them and see how marred the face of the piston is. Cyl 4 looks to have taken the worst of the damage, and looks like it's really F'd.

But this could be a blessing in disguise because that head was dirty as hell, and by the looks of the headgasket, it looks like you had some mixture of oil & water, so it was only a matter of time.

I would first just try to find a new motor running and tested, and before you put it in, be sure to replace the t-belt, water pump, and pull the head to be sure the pistons are good there's no signs of contact on the valves, then put it in.

IMO, your original motor (pictured) should be pulled, and have the block bored out .20 over, new pistons, rings, water pump, main & rod bearings, head gasket, etc (basically a full rebuild), and inspect the journals on the crank for any scoring and decide if the crank need any reconditioning. The head will need to be completely disassembled and all intake valves replaced and exhaust valves inspected and replaced as needed. The head should be dipped and thoroughly cleaned, and I would also make sure the intake guides are all still true (again, replace as necessary). While you're at it, get a full valve-job on it (once you get the new valves) to make sure you're getting a perfect seat.

That'll get you one bad ass motor.

I know Mark, This engine is busted. So by that means that I will put my 12V in it and drive as is for now, because I need a car and its kinda boring to walk every where.
I have been to a machine shop and got an price to look at, well the whole job would cost me 1.4K $USD, thats for machine wash, milling of the head, bore for valve settings, changing to bronze valve guides, stage 2 port on both exhaust and intake sides, and assembly.
Havnt asked for a complete price for engine block yet. Overbore, hone, wash, check and crank balance. But I guess it will cost as much if not more.
Mark, kan you ask your machine shop about what the price would be to bore out B16a pistons from 21mm to 22mm wrist pin. I thin thats would be a good idea when I heed to change pistons anyways. And I was thinking to buy B16a pistons with 10:1 CR so I increase overall compression to 12/12.5:1. Did B18C rods fit our crank or? because if they do, than I dont need to bore out to 22mm. I can just use those rods instead.

Hold your horses now mate.
I really doubt that the engine block part of your engine has suffered any damage from your valve collission.
Their may be parts that need to be replaced (bearings in specific) but that is going to be because of normal wear and tear (or unknown previous abuse). As you mentioned the car has done a lot of miles.

If I were you and I was really strapped for cash and just needed to have the car running for a year or two more without doing any mods to the engine I would just check the bearings and replace as necessary, then replace all the valves with a set of used valves together with a valvejob and make sure the valve to valve guide tolerances is within specs or very close to.

But if you are perfectly happy spending the cash on building the engine from the bottom up that's fine as well. And your build ideas sound sweet anyway. I was just getting the impression that you werent very fond of spending a lot of money on this right now.

BTW. all the carbon build-up and small valve marks on the pistons don't mean ANYTHING.

I would still take the opportunity to measure everything and freshen up with new honing (bore if req'd), rings, bearings, seals, and obviously the top end work. Why fix half of the engine when you can go through it all. Bearings and gaskets really aren't that much more, and you get a basically new engine out of the deal.

As I said: "If I were you and I was really strapped for cash..."
It doesnt have to be a half assed job just because you dont replace every single part of the engine.
Anyone would want to do the full rebuild together with new performance parts if they had the choice.

Yeah, I'm really low on cash now. to much expenses nowadays. So I dont have time to rebuild head right now so thats why I'm swaping A20 in it and will gradually rebuild this B20. Thats the plan anyways. I know everyone wants to rebuild with performance parts and all, but I will try to keep price to the minimum by using original parts and rather do great work on the head, intake and exhaust. The bottom end will have to wait, only bearings and B16a pistons will go in. nothing more. I were checking and find that original B16 pistons cost no more than 60USD a set on eBay.

And Marthin can you help me to convert to OBD1? I really dont have a clue when it comes to electronics, I'm more mechanical type.

Engine will have some attention, but no more than it needs to be done, because the body need some loving to, rear quarters needs to be welded, and trunk because I have a hole there, and that spoiler is so heavy that it fkup lock mechanism, so mount with ear needs to be rewelded as well. some minor rust spots needs to be threated before its to late. dont want any cancer on this car. Plus wind shield needs to be changed, after 22 years with ice scraping, cant see a shit when I meet other cars on the road at night. If you ask me, I have more than enough to think about ehh..

I agree with Marthin, the bottom end is probably 100% fine. (Well, fine in the way that it hasn't been damaged by the valves)

yeah it looks ok to me-1.4kusd is a joke for a head build there's bound to be someone else cheaper than that dude. If your going to rebuild the motor B16 pistons will be a good upgrade-but make sure you replace the rod bearings if anything at all just make sure and plastigauge them you may have to machine the crank.

IDK guys, but it looks more ok on pick than in real life, up close pistons looks dented. I hope they didn crack tho, its kinda hard to see underneath all carbon build up. But I'm going to disassemble whole engine in bits and pieces and give it nice wash before I judge anything. But I will use this opportunity to change rod and crank bearings so I can go over to fully synthetic oil.
Tell me guys, dos B18c rods fit our crank, and do they have the same stroke if I'm upgrading to B16a pistons? What is highest CR will work with B16a pistons before interfering with the valves? I think that is simple and cheap way to increase power in this engine. And yes 1.4k is stupid price but since I live in Norway, there is only handful of such tuners that do kind of work, and they are good at what they do. But this have to wait anyhow.

Hopw many miles does the engine have?

I noticed you have PJ5 pistons, interesting! This is a B20A1?

BTW, you can use other B series pistons if you bore out the piston pin. I have Integra Type-R Pistons in my B20A.

Just clean the top of the pistons for cracks. Check the bore size if it's oval. Since you're on a tight budget, don't overdo anything if it's not necessary.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by carotman

Hopw many miles does the engine have?

I noticed you have PJ5 pistons, interesting! This is a B20A1?

BTW, you can use other B series pistons if you bore out the piston pin. I have Integra Type-R Pistons in my B20A.

Just clean the top of the pistons for cracks. Check the bore size if it's oval. Since you're on a tight budget, don't overdo anything if it's not necessary.

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How can you tell they're PJ5's? All I can see is part of a P, something that could be both the end of a J or the left leg of an H, and something that resembles either a 5 or a 3... I vote PH3.

But if it really is an A1, damn good catch... Would've never noticed the letters without you saying that.

The suspension rises while we wait for Tom to check...

And carot, totally off topic but feel like giving me some advice later on when I'm converting to a PJ5 JDM ECU with the electronic advance, maybe in July? Didn't you do this too, but to a PK2 ECU?

You are indeed right Carot its PJ5 pistons, hmm, what dos it means then? While block says B20a2.
edit: this engine has around 170k mils on it.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...s/Bilde011.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...s/Bilde010.jpg

And some more up close shoots, just to show why I think those are dented.
Those are werst piston 4 3 (^up there^) and 2
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde014-1.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde013-1.jpg

According to the shop manual and EPC, the B20A2 should have PH3 pistons... So I guess they've been swapped?

Thats possible, maybe back in the day someone tried to tune it. This car were imported from belgium so who knows I also found that top gasket is not fully the same with all oil and water channels, maybe I find more surprises with this car, Now I'm wondering what ECU it has, so next thing tomorrow I will check that too.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1244207899
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1244499882
or it supose to be like that?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by guyhatesmycar

I would still take the opportunity to measure everything and freshen up with new honing (bore if req'd), rings, bearings, seals, and obviously the top end work. Why fix half of the engine when you can go through it all. Bearings and gaskets really aren't that much more, and you get a basically new engine out of the deal.

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Indeed, you thinking in my tempo, why not, yes it will take more time as money dont grow on bushes, but I have strong A20 to move it while I'm at it. Will have to hear about what it would cost to hone cylinders. and I will never in my life put new pistons without new rings on them, I had bad experience with that before.

170k miles or 170K km? (huge difference). If it's 170k miles, I would think about a bottom end refresh.

PJ5 pistons could have come from the factory, it's just a stamped number after all. My B20A had PK2 pistons.

Don't worry about the oil/coolant channels in the gasket. It's all fine.

Yea the headgasket looks absolutely normal. You have an engine block heater :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tomisimo

And Marthin can you help me to convert to OBD1? I really dont have a clue when it comes to electronics, I'm more mechanical type.

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Sure, but best wait till you get the B20A back in. You can start collecting parts for the conversion though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by carotman

I noticed you have PJ5 pistons, interesting! This is a B20A1?

---

Nothing ever gets past your x-ray vision does it? :)

Carot, the car has clocked 270k kilometers or 170k mils, so this is pretty far. I think bearings needs to be replaced anyway.

Marthin, can you give me parts list? of what do I need for OBD1 swap? And what do you think is best? over internet or me sending you pats or me coming to Denmark to do this swap?

I have a lill Idea for you and Naf, what if we do a meet in sweden? you in your nice silver, hem in hes cool red and me in my black accord. next summer or something :D Do som like B20a meet

he also has a water cooled oil cooler.
that funny thing between the filter and motor with 2 hoses sticking out.
i dont have one :(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tomisimo

Carot, the car has clocked 270k kilometers or 170k mils, so this is pretty far. I think bearings needs to be replaced anyway.

Marthin, can you give me parts list? of what do I need for OBD1 swap? And what do you think is best? over internet or me sending you pats or me coming to Denmark to do this swap?

I have a lill Idea for you and Naf, what if we do a meet in sweden? you in your nice silver, hem in hes cool red and me in my black accord. next summer or something :D Do som like B20a meet

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I like the idea about the meet :D
Where about in Norway are you? We should find a place about the same distance away for everyone, maybe a camping site or something.

I live in Trondheim area at the moment, but we going to move soon sometime this summer up north. I think the best would be a Gatebil meet in Runskogen, we can arrange a tent with 3Geez logo. but it depends. I think that if we do this meet, we need to go someplace where nice roads are and we can sleep over, like you said a camping. maybe take a drive 3 of us. We dont have Swedish 3Geezer?

HountedCA3 thanks for pointing that out, I was wondering of what it was. Thats cool thing to have. if I get it boosted one day.

i thought all b20a has oil coolers?? all of mine have

must be a blacktop thing

havnt noticed one on mine eh

mine has one too lol

How do you guys take out that bolt that goes tru bushing at the strut fork? mine want budge at all, I can turn whole bushing inside control arm but bolt just want go out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tomisimo

I live in Trondheim area at the moment, but we going to move soon sometime this summer up north. I think the best would be a Gatebil meet in Runskogen, we can arrange a tent with 3Geez logo. but it depends. I think that if we do this meet, we need to go someplace where nice roads are and we can sleep over, like you said a camping. maybe take a drive 3 of us. We dont have Swedish 3Geezer?

HountedCA3 thanks for pointing that out, I was wondering of what it was. Thats cool thing to have. if I get it boosted one day.

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I think I've seen some swedish guy here... But no one that seems to be around too often.


Would take me a while to get to that Rudskogen place

From Vaasa to Rudskogen Motorsenter1,112 km – about 16 hours 11 mins


And the ferry on top of that... which is either 2 or 9 hours depending on if I go over here or from Turku.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tomisimo

How do you guys take out that bolt that goes tru bushing at the strut fork? mine want budge at all, I can turn whole bushing inside control arm but bolt just want go out.

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This is because rust formed between the bushing sleeve and the bolt.

If you can turn the whole bushing, this means it needs to be replaced. Take a torch and heat the sleeve as much as you can and spray it with penetrating lubricant. This is the only way to take the bolt out. The bushing will be dead but you'll have to replace it anyway.

However, since this is quite time consuming and might overcome the cost of a new bolt and bushing, you could just saw the bolt off and install a new bolt and bushing combo.

Thanks Carotman, I tried to loosen it up with wrench on the other side of the bolt but before I knew it it just turned around, bushing that is. I have a set of bolts laing around someplace so its cool, but new bushing hmm.. Can I still use it if I get it out, for some time. I wanted to change all of then anyways soon..
and Carot, do you know if front sway bar from 4G will fit our cars? I remember seeing in some thread but its just to much balls in the air in most threads so I'm not really sure.

Naf's, I can understand that you have a long drive there. If I move to Alta than I will have to drive as far as you do. But we can always meet someplace in sweeden, they have great roads there so sud be quick then :D We need to wait for Marthin, and see what he think about that idea.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tomisimo

Naf's, I can understand that you have a long drive there. If I move to Alta than I will have to drive as far as you do. But we can always meet someplace in sweeden, they have great roads there so sud be quick then :D We need to wait for Marthin, and see what he think about that idea.

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Alta...

*googles*

Damn, that is north. A bit further and you'd be going south again ;)

Would be cool to do something like this, let's hope gas prices go down next year... Sucks that the ferry that goes over to Umeå from here is so damn expensive it's probably cheaper to drive up and down through Tornio/Haparanda.

Yea no shit, this is almost as far north as it gets... but but. Convert to LPG, its cheap fuel. I know I want. under 2liters for 1euro its a price I can live with.

The engine is out :D had few problems but all in all good progress. here some picks.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde000-2.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde001-2.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde002-1.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde004-1.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde003-2.jpg
its dirty as hell so the engine bay. but at least I have a chance to clean it out :D so now to the A20, I have to swap radiator from my other car as well because this in black one is rotten. othar than that is all good.
Ordered new timing belt today for A20, and I have new clutch with refurbished flywheel, so going to replace that too. before drop it in. some day soon I hope if weather stays clear.

and this is what I did, I raped that LCA along with strut fork. I have a spare set so its not a big deal. Goig to use LCA from my other car.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...ilde0001-1.jpg
and dirty engine bay
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...ilde0021-1.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...ilde0031-1.jpg
what is best house hold residue is best to wash with? and what you guys clean hoses with?

Good job!

To clean the enginebay. I use a stuff called "Simple Green". I don't know if it's available where you live.

Simple Green FTW! Also that Citrus / Orange cleaner works REALLY damn well.

...so we got Simple Green, Citrus Orange, and I use Purple Power.

All work real well.

Anything blue? ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tomisimo

Marthin, can you give me parts list? of what do I need for OBD1 swap? And what do you think is best? over internet or me sending you pats or me coming to Denmark to do this swap?

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Hehe you're welcome to come here to get the swap done but I think that would be way way too much trouble for yourself. I think you can do everything yourself but if there's anything you get stuck with you can send it to me if you like.
I would recommend the following parts:

Acura Integra LS B18B OBD1 distributor with cut engine harness connectors included
Chipped P06 or P28 ecu
B-series plug for exhaust cam hole (or make something yourself - I did).
OBD1 ecu conversion harness (or DIY, requires 1 old obd0 ecu and a cut obd1 ecu connector)
B16A2 or other compatable intake manifold with throttlebody, cut TPS engine harness connector, IACV, cut IACV engine harness connector and fuel rail included
~3 meters of shielded wire
Wideband O2 sensor (Innovate LC1 is fine)
or optionally if you dont want to tune anything yourself you can leave out the O2 sensor entirely or you can install standard narrowband sensor which requires:
O2 sensor with cut engine harness connector (you can use old type 1 wire sensor or newer type 4 wire heated sensor)
O2 sensor steel weld-in bung to weld into your downpipe (or replace your header with something else that already has an O2 sensor)
Gauge cluster from accord with cruise control

I think that's it more or less.
What's the reason you want to go OBD1?
If it's not because you want to get the engine properly tuned it's probably not worth the trouble.
I really like the OBD1 conversion because it makes the engine bay alot cleaner but that is probably not reason enough for you to go OBD1.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tomisimo

I have a lill Idea for you and Naf, what if we do a meet in sweden? you in your nice silver, hem in hes cool red and me in my black accord. next summer or something :D Do som like B20a meet

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That would be cool. Question is if it's logistically possible?

I wouldnt mind driving to Rudskogen as it's only ~500 km plus a ~100euro ferry or bridge ticket, but looks like Nafs is stuck behind the Gulf of Bothnia.
How much are those ferries Nafs? You're probably the one who will be able to travel the shortest distance for X money.

Also I'm not excactly sure what my options are next year as I'll be into my first year of studying as an engineer at that time, so I'm not sure if I'll be able to afford having a car registered :/
But I'm up for something if I have the option.
Never been to sweden or norway yet, or finland for that matter, and would love to go.
I'm taking a trip to mont blanc in france in a couple of weeks in my silver 16v accord. 1300 km and mountain roads should put it to the test :)

And holy shit Tom, Alta is far up north! you are going to freeze your ass off up there. You will need a snow mobile and not a car lol

/End of marathon post

Lol that strut fork sure got taken care of :) It sucks ass when they're seized and they usually are on old accords where we live.

Pulling an engine hoist around on a gravel road is a bitch isnt it haha. I've done it a couple of times so I know the feeling lol

Looks like your alternator was replaced recently which is good because they cost an arm and a leg. And I can see you know the old powersteering reservoir hose trick :)

progress.....looks good so far

petrol cleans a engine bay all good too :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thegreatdane

That would be cool. Question is if it's logistically possible?

I wouldnt mind driving to Rudskogen as it's only ~500 km plus a ~100euro ferry or bridge ticket, but looks like Nafs is stuck behind the Gulf of Bothnia.
How much are those ferries Nafs? You're probably the one who will be able to travel the shortest distance for X money.

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The ferry from here to Umeå is 60 euro/person and 65 euro for the car, one way. That one takes about 2 hours to get to the other side.

If I drive down to Turku and take the ferry to Stockholm it's 11 euro/person, or 45 euro and up for a cabin (1-4 persons) plus anywhere between 20 and 70 euro for the car, depending on date and time. But this one makes a stop in Åland, so the trip is like 10 hours.

Anyhow if we do this, I wouldn't be going on my lonesome. I'd probably have to make it a family trip (we got two kids, 1.5 and 3.5 years old).

So for the round trip with the ferrys it'd be up to around 200-250 euro, plus gas and food... Yeah when I think about it the only way to do this for would be to make the whole deal a summer vacation camping trip on our part, bet the kids would love it too. Would just need to go somewhere with an amusement park or something like that.

Shouldn't be that hard to save up the cash for either, a whole year to go. :)

Or if I were to drive around the gulf, we'd all have roughly the same distance to go if we met up somewhere in the middle of sweden. And if Tom is coming down from Alta, we could meet up on Haparanda on the way. Would mean over 1000 km's of driving for each tho.

Thanks guys for replys. really helps me and motivates me. Today I havent done nothing at all, its poring rain like from a bucket. and it cold outside.

Marthin the main reason I want to do OBD1 swap is because I'm going with B16a pistons and maybe B18a/b cams. And porting head. So I want it to be tuned if I want to get 200hp out of it, I see no other choice. And as a bonus I get clean engine bay as well. I set a goal of 200Hp from N/A engine so thats what I'm aiming for.
hehe you noticed it with PS trick, I havent thought about it, I just did. And its a such pain in the ass to pull that lift across gravel, so I going to use plywood next time. I almost shit my self when I drag it.
Yes the alternator is changed for about 5k kilometers back, and they are to expensive indeed, I'm glad its new. Dos it fit A20 or not, because my is busted on A20. it charge, than it dont charge. I think I fried diodes on it.
Thanks for the list of parts it really helps, now I just need to get my head around and find all that stuff, when its all gathered I will start on this swap, I'm thinking that It would be best if I took a snap tour to you and did it with ya if you dont mind, and get a lill vacation at the same time some time next year I think.

Naf's it souds good If you take your family with you, I dont mind at all about that, as long its not going to be hard on your smallest guy. its a long road trip for that age. There is Liseberg amusement park in sweeden we can go to. and if I'm in Alta at that time, we do can meet half way and drive together. could be fun :D or I can drive sometime sooner to finland and meet with you.

alternators will not swap but you can simply pull the alternator apart and swap your good rectifier, brushes and regulator from one into the other.

my 3g had thick carbon build up like that was from running rich .. apparently everything in the block was still in excellent condition and would have probably gone another 200k miles with a new head gasket

well I wrote a damn long post and my firefox shot down, so I lost everything I wrote. but here a revue.
I took out A20 today and swapped radiators. Picks say it all!
Enjoy.. I'm off to bed its 2:30AM now and I'm tired.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245285007
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245285050
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245285070
here'is heart transplant table haha..
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245285094
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245285169
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245285180
And finally out. It rests now. Timing belt is here so that will be changed ASAP, about that. Can you guys tell me how to take off crank pulley? I cant lock it in place to unbolt it. Any tips? Thanks
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245285202
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245285334
And Radiator swap. the one that was on a Black Accord is turned green and rotten, so I swapped Propeller. wash it and installed it.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245285361
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245285473
And if you notice on first pick of radiators, bottom bolts are so rusted that I needed to use undersize wrench to take that prop off. And I ratle painted those just in case it never happen again. you never see them anyway. might as well be red...

well I'm done for today... More to come soon

nice progress. your B20A will be jealous to see that a20 in there lol

good work there :) jam a bolt or something down the timing inspection hole onto the flywheel or pull the starter out & put a bolt in there somewhere to lock the crank in place

great progress!

Well today I have done alot.. first of build me a shack, than moved engine there, cleaned engine as good as I cud, changed timing belt, changed clutch and dropped engine in the black accord... was out there 10hours.
The story goes like that. Guy who I lend engine lift wants it back tomorrow or lats say today already. So I stressed it to get things done, at least drop engine in the car. and its poring rain today, so had to improvise a lill bit. So I build me a shack of some sort, but it worked great hehe.. Than it all begun, timing belt was a bit of a problem, crank pulley was so stubborn but eventually I got it off.. Than to the clutch, took g.box off and the rest (I have refurbished flywheel, but when I saw mine it was smooth like glass so I leaved alone)
To tell you guys, that washing with teeth brush is great and it works, and you get to most unbelievable places but it is time consuming ordeal.. Well I have some more pic whore here..
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245381178
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245381229
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245381254
Who said my engine bay was dirty?? lol not anymore its not, got it cleaned yesterday but it was to dark to take picks so I took those today.
...before...
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245381466
...after...
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245381265
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245381347
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245381380

And finally, the famous A20 is inside.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245381395
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1245381510
I sud have taken more picks but I had no time and greasy fingers..
Thats about it, Now all I have to do is wire it and connect all hoses and its done.

damn Tom, that's dedication right there. Congrats on even getting this far. That engine bay looks mint. What did you end up using to get it that clean?

Thanks Mark, I tried to be on top of things today. my back gona pay for that but I dont care right now.
I first used pink stuff, SilitBang I believe, but that didnt work so great, so I dropped that Idea and used paint thinner, I used spray bottle I had left, fill it up and toot brush magic and one old sweater in files. 2 hours later it looked like that. and Used Silicone in spray box for hoses and wires.

mice job man cant wait to see her running :) reminds me of the time i swapped my b20 for a a20a2

Wow, all that work for an A20, huh?

any more progress

No not more, but it coming soon. I wait for good weather. it been raining for 3 weeks now. and I got sick.
only connecting and wiring thats left, and all new fluids. Gas tank swap. short shift swap, hood swap (paint black first), maybe trunk lid and 4G rear sway bar.
This is what is nearest plans... so keep watching :D

Ok I'm done with the swap, now. I'm done with wiring, but the engine just want crank at all, the lights come on, and PGM-FI light comes and all, but engine just standing still.
I had one fail, It started to smoke from wire that coes from dizzy to that small fuse of some sort. I turned on, checked, found where the problem was and tryed again but no life from it..

What it cud be?

EDIT: here is wire that started to smoke
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...1020070061.jpg

this is what I did :(
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde004-4.jpg

Something is wrong.

This is a device to cancel parasites in the distributor signal.

If the car won't crank, I would check all the grounds

Is the ground by the thermostat properly attached?

Can you sign in AIM? Im there now. Thanks Carot
aim:GoChat?RoomName=ThirdGenerationAccord <-- here is the link, me and Mark are here

No one watch this threat I bet, but I write it down anyway.

I got engine started now, everything works, but it just want start from ignition key. Dont know what the problem is. I changed wire lom from other car, still nothing.
I have a Q. I had to cut ground wire to thermostat, because original B20 was to short. I didnt soldered it I just connected it and insulated with el.tape. cud it be a cause of my problem?

your try swaping the ign switch from the other accord? if that not it run a new wire from the ign to the starter

but i must say good progresse man! that engine bay look great!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tomisimo

No one watch this threat I bet, but I write it down anyway.

I got engine started now, everything works, but it just want start from ignition key. Dont know what the problem is. I changed wire lom from other car, still nothing.

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Check the clutch switch

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tomisimo

I have a Q. I had to cut ground wire to thermostat, because original B20 was to short. I didnt soldered it I just connected it and insulated with el.tape. cud it be a cause of my problem?

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will not cause any problem unless the wires become loose.

Good that you got it started at least, hope you find what's wrong. Maybe it's the body of the car that's pissed about having an A20 stuffed into it? ;)

I thought about that lol, tried to sweet talk to it but she refuse to.

woa nice man

Updates :D
Today I done so far.
*Changed gear leaver to short shift. I had in my other car, I have welded it a while ago, shortened in 2 places. under ball and at leaver it self.
*Changed engine oil
*Changed oil filter
*Oil in Gearbox, used genuine Honda MTF3 oil, bout from local Honda shop.
*Assembled drive train
and I guess its time for some picks
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde002-1.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde001-1.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde004-1.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde005-2.jpg
and for those who never seen me.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...Bilde007-2.jpg

its getting kinda dark so picks are not at their best. shitty phone camera you know...

take a bath you dirty bastard. ...and wash that shirt. haha, j/k.

So what's the deal Tom? You get her running or what?

lol....i was going ot say LOL....yeah is she running yet bro

Mark, I'm tired to shover every time I tern a wrench lol and those clothes goes to trash after I'm done with it.
Today is another day so I'm out working again.

Randon she dos not running yet, but starts. Not with the key, so I neither need to change igniter and wiring to it or run direct wire from key to starter and see if this will help.