Clearcoat over sharpie ink??

Looking for some advice on what to use.
I did this valve cover back when I had a 3g. It's been sitting in the closet a while now unfinished and I don't see me getting another 3g in the near future. So, once it's cleared I'm probably going to sell it here on 3geez.
Basically I'm worried that the paint will melt/run the alcohol-based ink. I've already tested engine enamel clear(on something else), which didn't affect the ink too badly, but was not really 'clear' either. Anyone had good/bad exp with spraycan clearcoats?
VC Pics:
Overview
Front 1
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Dizz side
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Not really useful to helping you out but..

NICE artwork.

WOAH that is so badass. Man I love the DOMO and the 3GEEZ on there! :)

The only thing I could suggest, is get some scrap metal and draw some stuff with that same kind of marker. Then test it out by hitting it with some clearcoat... and see what happens...

Have you tried your hand at airbrushing?

I'd think anything solvent based will run that ink. Everything that I can think of won't stand up to engine heat. I guess you'll have to experiment.

thanks guys, its all freehanded, but some stuff is influenced by other sharpie art on the internetz.

Those japanese kanji mean Honda, for anyone wondering.

I've tested that 500deg engine clearcoat but it wasn't as clear as i'd like it to be. I suppose i'll just have to get a bunch of different clearcoat types and test em all.
Resin will stand up to the heat, but that crap is too messy.

I haven't tried airbrushing yet. always wanted to though. I even have a model airbrush kit i never opened.

Regular clearcoat will hold up just fine. Your engine won't get above 180-200 degrees anyways. If it does, you're in trouble!!! My whole engine is painted with regular old automotive paint...

Come to think about it, there's a Testors clear that's pretty good. Might want to check it out.

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Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy

Regular clearcoat will hold up just fine. Your engine won't get above 180-200 degrees anyways. If it does, you're in trouble!!! My whole engine is painted with regular old automotive paint...

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Exhaust temps are higher than that!

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Originally Posted by Vanilla Sky

Come to think about it, there's a Testors clear that's pretty good. Might want to check it out.

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that stuff eventually yellows and flakes after u apply heat like that

edit: ^^ hhmmm... wouldn't want that.

I just read the instructions on the 500deg clear; says the color coat needs to be wet still. 'When all else fails' i guess.
I remember that testors stuff, from back in the day when I was into models lol. I'm gonna try that and the krylon stuff.

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Originally Posted by 86AccordLxi

Exhaust temps are higher than that!

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Well don't route your custom headers up over your valve cover and you should be fine. :) My block has yet to peel, even near the exhaust system.

You could always go over it with paint. I'm not sure how paint would stick, but I'm sure it would do OK. Clear over that with the high temp stuff and you should be fine.

any clear coat should work fine i have a buddy who used regular rattle can paint and has never had a problem with peeling.

that is the most b-e-a- utiful valve cover I have ever seen.That should be hanging on a wall somewhere not hid under a car hood. nice work man.You might could take it an have it powder coated clear.That is what I would do then you know it wont peel or ruin the cover.
It will be there forever.

holy crap that is awesome. If you decide to sell it I have first dibs on buying it! You heard it guys. DIBS!

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Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy

Regular clearcoat will hold up just fine. Your engine won't get above 180-200 degrees anyways. If it does, you're in trouble!!! My whole engine is painted with regular old automotive paint...

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Originally Posted by 86AccordLxi

Exhaust temps are higher than that!

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Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy

Well don't route your custom headers up over your valve cover and you should be fine. :) My block has yet to peel, even near the exhaust system.

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Your engine block is full of water. It shouldn't be much hotter than, well, water in it's liquid form.

bid war lol

that is the sex

So fucking sick!! Install it asap :D

omg thats awesome

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Originally Posted by guyhatesmycar

Your engine block is full of water. It shouldn't be much hotter than, well, water in it's liquid form.

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But its pressurised water. Water will stay in its liquid form to a much higher temperature. Water has a much higher boiling point under pressure. thats why you should never open the radiator cap when engine is hot.. and for those of you that does, its steam every where and you will hear the water in the block boiling straight away.

Hawt!

Thanks for the comments guys.:D
Picked up some Krylon crystal clear gloss [acrylic] yesterday, so I'm going to test that out. All the rustoleum enamel paints said not for use on surfaces that exceed 200deg.

go to eastwood.com and look for their diamond clear, take some scrap metal draw some on it and test it. the diamond clear isn't cheap but if you want quality it's not going to be

well, if you use real clear coat, like the stuff i use when i paint a car, it will not crack and flake off..

now for the ppl who do the hoods and the cars with sharpie. they just draw, and hit some clear coat over it. and its done..

all cars were done with sharpie, then clear coat.

check it.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2434/...a99b424b_b.jpg

http://www.doobybrain.com/wp-content...ardo-whole.jpg

ugh that cover is so sick. How much do you charge if I send you mine . No I'm not kidding lol.

I really hope whoever gets that hangs it on the wall not puts it on their car, thats art.

yeah i need to start finding spare covers

that is amazeing!!!!.... dude if we ever get a damn local meet going down i wana see that in person!! are you interested in doodleing on a F valve cover at all?

That is cool shit guy....You have a hand for art thats forsure. i would ask a autobody guy or something...matter of fact ill ask my bro what you can clear with that.....im pretty sure theres something out there that well work

whoa, didn't notice the new comments. Thanks guys.
I got a can of Krylon clear on it the other day. It looks pretty good, and there's no "yellowing" like the high-temp stuff did. It did get a little uneven in some spots, but such is the nature of rattle cans. Esp when you dont have much experience with them.
Yea I been thinking of doing VC's and selling em. But I need to find out if this paint and clearcoat setup will work with the engine-bay heat. If the cheap stuff stands up to the heat then that'll keep the price down. Also wouldn't want my name attached to something that's going to chip away in a month. So... If someone local has a 2.5g or 3g and wouldn't mind testing it out for me for a little while, post up or PM me:wave:.

i dont have a 3 g but i will gladly drop off a VC for you to do for a F22 to be the "test dumby" lol

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Originally Posted by CcordLevel2

whoa, didn't notice the new comments. Thanks guys.
I got a can of Krylon clear on it the other day. It looks pretty good, and there's no "yellowing" like the high-temp stuff did. It did get a little uneven in some spots, but such is the nature of rattle cans. Esp when you dont have much experience with them.
Yea I been thinking of doing VC's and selling em. But I need to find out if this paint and clearcoat setup will work with the engine-bay heat. If the cheap stuff stands up to the heat then that'll keep the price down. Also wouldn't want my name attached to something that's going to chip away in a month. So... If someone local has a 2.5g or 3g and wouldn't mind testing it out for me for a little while, post up or PM me:wave:.

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ouch,the problem is over time that krylon will turn an ugly yellow color, i've tried it before,just takes a while. thats why i suggested the diamond clear from eastwood, it's one of the few spray can clears that stays clear.

Krylon just recently changed their formula from lacquer to alkyd, due to the EPA. They advertise it doesn't yellow, but we will see.

edit: sk8r you got a spare?

If my 3gee was running, I'd be the guinea pig.

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Originally Posted by CcordLevel2

Krylon just recently changed their formula from lacquer to alkyd, due to the EPA. They advertise it doesn't yellow, but we will see.

edit: sk8r you got a spare?

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i can get one in less then a day, can allso shave all the lettering if you want a fully blank canvas, lemme know a time u need it by and a price

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Originally Posted by CcordLevel2

Krylon just recently changed their formula from lacquer to alkyd, due to the EPA. They advertise it doesn't yellow, but we will see.

edit: sk8r you got a spare?

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i tested the new stuff it yellowed, sprayed it over polished aluminum and baked it at temps close to underhood, turned dingy yellow. If you do all this work i would get the diamond high temp clear from eastwood, pro stuff not walmart clear coat, it's your art, do you really want to spray cheap clear over it? I have dozens and dozens of aluminum parts to repolish and clear now because of the dam kyrlon.

so I'm on vaca for a week and come back to see something like this? That's just damn sick. I've seen a lot of doodled or custom artwork'd v/c's and every damn one that I've seen looked like a 5th grader with rabies was let loose on it.

....but....

That one, my friend, is insanely nice. I would definitely sport that with pride on my car.

I have a spare cover I'd be happy to send your way if you were willing to do something custom like that for me. Obviously I'd be happy to pay you for you work, and fully understand it takes lots of time to get to something like that.

86ccord--> That E46 is just plain silly. I'm loving that hood.

CcordLevel2 you have pm

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Originally Posted by lostforawhile

i tested the new stuff it yellowed, sprayed it over polished aluminum and baked it at temps close to underhood, turned dingy yellow. If you do all this work i would get the diamond high temp clear from eastwood, pro stuff not walmart clear coat, it's your art, do you really want to spray cheap clear over it? I have dozens and dozens of aluminum parts to repolish and clear now because of the dam kyrlon.

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I baked mine too, but only at 275ish. It didn't yellow. I'm not saying you're wrong by any means, im just stubborn and need to see for myself lol.

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Originally Posted by markmdz89hatch

so I'm on vaca for a week and come back to see something like this? That's just damn sick. I've seen a lot of doodled or custom artwork'd v/c's and every damn one that I've seen looked like a 5th grader with rabies was let loose on it.

....but....

That one, my friend, is insanely nice. I would definitely sport that with pride on my car.

I have a spare cover I'd be happy to send your way if you were willing to do something custom like that for me. Obviously I'd be happy to pay you for you work, and fully understand it takes lots of time to get to something like that.

86ccord--> That E46 is just plain silly. I'm loving that hood.

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THanks

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Originally Posted by labeledsk8r

CcordLevel2 you have pm

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whatever you have VD

Did anyone ever consider clear powdercoat? It's also available from Eastwood, and a valve cover easily fits into the oven.

I didn't know such a thing existed. Can it go on over existing paint? I thought most powdercoats bonded to the metal, but I don't know shit. :D

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Originally Posted by stezie

But its pressurised water. Water will stay in its liquid form to a much higher temperature. Water has a much higher boiling point under pressure. thats why you should never open the radiator cap when engine is hot.. and for those of you that does, its steam every where and you will hear the water in the block boiling straight away.

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I'm fully fucking aware of this. Also, the propylene glycol solution (aka "Antifreeze") further raises the boiling point. Most thermostats open by 82-90 Celsius, and most cars are considered to be "overheating" by 115 C.

So a whole 15 degrees C. That's your difference right there. About as much difference as a sunny day from a cloudy one.

Also, if you open the rad cap slowly, it blows all the steam and shit into the reservoir, not your face.



I was kinda thinking that the heat required to fire the clear powdercoat might toast the sharpie art...

Starting another one soon. Prepping and painting now.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...2/100_2022.jpg

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...2/100_2024.jpg

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...2/100_2025.jpg

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...2/100_2027.jpg

cool stuff man

damn man your getting more work done then me, mines is not wanting to strip, about to hit it with a 3rd coat of aicraft remover and then trying to scrape the rest off

^^ I used some Tal-strip, it worked alright but still left a lil residue, then I used the wheel to get the rest and strip some old rust that was under the paint. The tal-strip really came in useful in the creases and under that bracket though.

Got a couple coats of black on it.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...2/100_2029.jpg

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...2/100_2030.jpg

I'm going to be using these things on it.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...-paint-pen.jpg

fresh cant wait to see it done!!

nice start

Yeah sweet! Keep us posted!

If you have compressed air, you can get a small blasting cabinet from tractor supply for under a hundred bucks. not the best in the world but it will do things like that.

Ccordleval2 you have a pm

what engine is that v/c for?

fyi... I used brake-kleen to strip mine. I started with the brake-kleen just to get the oil residue off, but low and behold the paint just started blasting right off it. Then I did the same with the wire wheel and I have to admit it worked out great.

Did you bake the primer before the paint?

looks like a 1st gen civic cvcc cover to me. It may be the 1200 but the hump looks more like the cvcc. Its been a while since Ive seen one in person. Im starting to miss my 1st gen.

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Originally Posted by lostforawhile

If you have compressed air, you can get a small blasting cabinet from tractor supply for under a hundred bucks. not the best in the world but it will do things like that.

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Yea I needed one for the inside, 27 years of oil/sludge/carbon buildup was kinda bad.

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Originally Posted by markmdz89hatch

what engine is that v/c for?

fyi... I used brake-kleen to strip mine. I started with the brake-kleen just to get the oil residue off, but low and behold the paint just started blasting right off it. Then I did the same with the wire wheel and I have to admit it worked out great.

Did you bake the primer before the paint?

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It's my EK1 v/c.
I used one of those 3M abrasive wheels, dunno what its made of but that shite worked, good. Yeah I read somewhere that brake-kleen softens paint, idk apparently it does something.
I baked it a little, not much, then left it out in the florida sun for a few hours.

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Originally Posted by mykwikcoupe

looks like a 1st gen civic cvcc cover to me. It may be the 1200 but the hump looks more like the cvcc. Its been a while since Ive seen one in person. Im starting to miss my 1st gen.

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Well, you got the cvcc right... lol

Hey I will send you a valve cover and a can of that Eastwood clear coat. Send me a PM on how much you will do one for.

Thanks!

Update on the 2g's VC.... Those paint pens pissed me off, they really suck bad. So they went in the trash and I went in a different direction with the project.
Top
Front
Back

That paint is Dupli-color's Ultra Silver. Effing gorgeous IMO, I'll never use any other silver again. It’s really bright and iridescent in real life. I had to turn off the flash and block the overhead light with a folder to get pics, cuz the shite kept glaring. Oh, and the 1up mushy is a good luck charm so my car never dies again, once I get it up and running that is lol.
Tomorrow I’m going to some paint shops to see what they’ll charge to clear it

that looks amazeing man, top notch stuff

p.s sorry about never getting you that VC its still sitting half striped on my back porch

Thanks dude.

Thats alright, we should meet up one day so I can get that from you and I'll just strip the rest. I'm going to have a lot of free time until January. This is the slow period at my job, so I'll be able to get a lot done on it.

you ever need more things to practice on let me know Ive got 3 hondas and Id love to see that style on at least 2 of them. Great work and as always looks fantastic. I hope it gets cleared without any wash away

Holy shit thats sex!

:drool:

very nice work

Beautiful

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Originally Posted by SZfiftyfour

Thanks dude.

Thats alright, we should meet up one day so I can get that from you and I'll just strip the rest. I'm going to have a lot of free time until January. This is the slow period at my job, so I'll be able to get a lot done on it.

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true. i wish my work was slow lol but the hours help, seems like i never have any spair money to spend on my car, and i have mostly lost all the motivation i have on it

Thanks for the comments guys :).

Stopped by a body shop that was closed and happened to meet the owner who was just leaving. I showed him the VC and we had a chat about clearing it. He talked about his airplane's valvecovers that he painted and spray-can cleared, and told me some techniques to use to avoid some of the issues with that stuff. So I'm going to test the 500° clearcoat again. We'll see...

you should start an online VC painting business....it would sell....TRUST ME. i would pay. lol

as would I...

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Originally Posted by SZfiftyfour

Thanks for the comments guys :).

Stopped by a body shop that was closed and happened to meet the owner who was just leaving. I showed him the VC and we had a chat about clearing it. He talked about his airplane's valvecovers that he painted and spray-can cleared, and told me some techniques to use to avoid some of the issues with that stuff. So I'm going to test the 500° clearcoat again. We'll see...

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Any luck?

I planned on going out to the garage and playing around with it today. Better get it done before its too dark...

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Originally Posted by SZfiftyfour

I planned on going out to the garage and playing around with it today. Better get it done before its too dark...

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You get a chance to mess with it?

Sure did. Yellowed again. So I wont be using Duplicolor 500° clearcoat, at least not on my sharpie stuff. Guess i'll just break down and order some Eastwood clearcoat when I get some extra cash. We'll see how that turns out.

Emailed Krylon about their various clears also:
" David,
Thank you for your inquiry with Krylon.
Unfortunately we do not offer any products that meet your requirements at this time. I apologize I could not help you with this request. Our clears max out at 120F.
Regards,
Jared "

So there's another question "cleared" up, ahahaa ehh....

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Originally Posted by SZfiftyfour

Sure did. Yellowed again. So I wont be using Duplicolor 500° clearcoat, at least not on my sharpie stuff. Guess i'll just break down and order some Eastwood clearcoat when I get some extra cash. We'll see how that turns out.

Emailed Krylon about their various clears also:
" David,
Thank you for your inquiry with Krylon.
Unfortunately we do not offer any products that meet your requirements at this time. I apologize I could not help you with this request. Our clears max out at 120F.
Regards,
Jared "

So there's another question "cleared" up, ahahaa ehh....

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that sucks, post up a pic of how it looks yellowed out

also how much is the eastwood paint? would it be cheeper to buy it in larger amounts? id happyly throw you cash for the clear if i ever get my VC striped for you

Its not expensive, like $13 I believe. Its just a pita having to order it.
I'll get some pics up so ya'll see what I'm talking about. Its not bad really, and you would only notice it if you knew what the subject looked like beforehand. That kind of stuff irks me though.

Alright, been slacking off lately but I finally got some pics of the cleared VC.

Before it was clear coated.

After the clear coat.

You can tell the shit yellowed by alternating them. Otherwise you wouldn't know. Another thing it did was dissolve some of the ink; like a top layer or something. You can see the "grain" (for lack of a better word) from the markers' strokes as opposed to a smoothly filled-in space.
BTW, the first VC I cleared with Krylon is still crystal-clear, no yellowing at all. Its too bad that stuff only holds up to 120°F.
Sometime next week Im gonna pick up a laser temperature reader.... Then I'll have a definitive answer to how hot a VC gets....

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Originally Posted by SZfiftyfour

You can tell the shit yellowed by alternating them. Otherwise you wouldn't know. Another thing it did was dissolve some of the ink; like a top layer or something. You can see the "grain" (for lack of a better word) from the markers' strokes as opposed to a smoothly filled-in space.
BTW, the first VC I cleared with Krylon is still crystal-clear, no yellowing at all. Its too bad that stuff only holds up to 120°F.

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I can see a slight difference in the pics, definitely looks better than, I thought. I was wondering if you couldn't do a coat of the hi-temp clear over the krylon clear...or is that something that wouldn't work?

Holy shit man!!! I never saw the remainder of this thread, but that VC looks awesome!!! I want one!

wow this is almost 2 years old? i still remember it...did it ever make it on a engine?

Holy shit!!

That valve cover is AMAZING!!
Did it Ever make it on the car??

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Originally Posted by RAZR

Holy shit!!

That valve cover is AMAZING!!
Did it Ever make it on the car??

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I think the pic in his sig will answer that question for you.

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Originally Posted by turabaka

I think the pic in his sig will answer that question for you.

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ohh hey look at that i was looking at this on my ipod and thats a really small screen :lol:

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Originally Posted by turabaka

I think the pic in his sig will answer that question for you.

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the pics show a 2nd gen valve cover and the on the sig its a 1st gen valve cover.

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Originally Posted by MessyHonda

the pics show a 2nd gen valve cover and the on the sig its a 1st gen valve cover.

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not if you read the whole thread. There's a bunch of pics on that 1st gen cover as well.

yes...but the question is what happen to the 2nd gen vc his original one i assume

The EK1 was in the Accords from 79 to 83. So, yeah the early 2nd Gen valve covers looked just like the 1st Gen valve covers, because they were pretty much the same. It wasn't until 84 that they got the A-style, ES engines.

Yup, 2.0g valve cover. It's the same as the 1g though.
I have another vc prepped, painted and ready. A20 this time; just gotta get some motivation & free time. A tall order when you have kids (3 & 1 ;)). Also need to get some of that eastwood clearcoat.
Heres the post of the 2geez vc installed.

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Originally Posted by SZfiftyfour

This isn't really an update, I was just kinda bored. I placed my VC and Redline filter adaptor and ProFlo filter on to see how it looked. The ProFlo is taller than I thought it would be. Like more than twice what the Weber pack-in is. I wasn't expecting it to have an inch and a half velocity stack as a base. It leaves about a 1/2-inch to 1-inch of clearance from the cowl.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...2/100_2240.jpg

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...2/100_2247.jpg

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...2/100_2249.jpg
I'm planning on changing the plug wires to blue. I think it'll go with the chrome and silver stuff better. Plus I wanted a set of Rapid Fire Mag's like I got for my truck and I believe they only come in blue.

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