I was wondering does a new o2 sensor improve gas millage on a carbed car or did i just waste money on buying that sensor
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I was wondering does a new o2 sensor improve gas millage on a carbed car or did i just waste money on buying that sensor
Your carbed car doesn't have an O2 sensor.........
YMMV
Have fun, good luck.
Actually, the 3rd gen carbed did use one. Weird huh? I had to change mine way back on my 88 LX after it failed Aircare.
Anyways, a new O2 could potentially help if it's old and tired. Use NTK or Denso only, don't go for the Bosch as it seems to have troubles on imports for some reason.
Dang really i popped a bosch in it already will it last at least a couple of months or should i just accept my mistake and just replace the new bosch
Did you grab the Bosch because it was the cheapest? That's what people usually do including myself when I didn't know better lol. Well....it's really hard to tell until you get it tested. Some people have been ok with Bosch, others the car ran WORSE or failed worse than with the old O2. You can download the service manual for the specs and then check the voltage at the sensor using a multimeter.
NTK and Denso are more expensive than Bosch but I have never had any issues with them on Hondas/Toyotas and I have changed quite a few of them now. If you must save a bit of cash, get the 1 wire universal NTK and wire in your plug from the old sensor.
COOL THANKS MAN IM GOING ON A 17 STATE 5015 MILE ROAD TRIP ON MY 87 HONDA ACCORD 283K IF YOU CAN CHECK OUT MY OTHER TREAD AND MAYBE IF YOU CAN HELP ME ON SOME OF THE ISSUES I MENTIONED ON THAT ONE IT WOULD BE A GREAT HELP ITS ON CARB TECH AND THE TREAD IS Talking 17 state road trip 87 accord lx few problems
ALSO I JUST ORDERED A GAUGE THAT SETS UP ONTO THE VACUUM OF THE CAR AND HOW YOU DRIVE IT INSTANTLY GIVES YOU YOUR MPG DID I DO A GOOD INVESTMENT I SAW IT AS A WIN WIN IT MAKES ME AWARE OF MY DRIVING AND MAKES MY LEAD FOOT INTO A GRANNY FOOT AND ALSO LETS ME KNOW WHEN MY VACUUM SYSTEM IS FAULTY IDK WHAT PEOPLES TAKE IS ON THAT GAUGE OR IF ITS ACCURATE ITS ON ( http://www.jcwhitney.com/miles-per-g...id=d855y1987j1 )
Nah. Ain't nobody on here got a vacuum gauge. LOL
http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/q...z/DSCN2233.jpg
Cool does it save you fuel by staying on the green or is it mostly to see if you have any faults on the vacuum system
I have been all over the exhaust on my 89 and be damned if I have come across an O2 sensor. This strikes me as a tad odd now. Perhaps I shall have another look while I am screwing around with adjusting the TV cable (adjusted, not a fan of the snappy shifts and higher revs though)
Head scratcher.
OP- turn off your caps. Bad enough your sentence structure rivals many 14 year olds. Yes, I am a grammar nazi.
It's right above where the manifold meets the downpipe and points to the passenger side fender. I'd post a pic but the only one I found was from 2001 and taken with my 0.8MP camera lol.
I guess it helps. You'll find that basically, when you are accelerating, it goes to zero. When you are decelerating, it goes to infinity. When you are driving at a constant speed, it stays in the green. My best mileage comes when I accelerate from stops in the 0-6 Hg range. That's solidly in the red zone. The orange zone gives the worst mileage. So yeah, it's helped me optimize my mileage.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lg310
Right now I'm working on improving my hwy mileage. The cruise control isn't steady like it should be. It accelerates and then backs off, accelerates and backs off. That's not the best solution for mpgs, so I'm seeing if driving it with a steadier foot yields better mileage.
Actually, I'm going to be putting vacuum gauges an all my cars. They give such insight into what's going on inside the engine. When you are driving up a grade, you can look over and know exactly how much load the engine is under. If something goes haywire with the valves (my second engine had a bad cam), it will show up immediately on the vacuum gauge. It can give you a rough idea of what compression you are getting, how tired the motor is, etc. It tells all kinds of things about the mechanical operation of the engine. I burned up the first motor in the car because I didn't have good insight into how the engine was doing. Now I do.
nice nice im happy with my purchase then lol and for dieselgus really wat the fudge im not writing an essay for a grade haha im just writing to write and get some answers not writing to impress anyone with my abilities to write
You might find that the quality of answers you receive improves when your writing is clear, concise and as easy as possible to read. You may think it's no big deal, but when the rest of us are trying to scan a post, find the issue and help, it really slows us down to have to plod through bad grammar, poor punctuation and run on sentences. A lot of people will just skip to the next thread instead of taking the time to wade through that. Help us out and make the effort to write good posts.
haha what a place to have to put your knowledge to work sounds like its some online college course what is the difference between having .,/?:;"' symbols and just writing nothing words are words and if you read it all makes sense read a book and take the symbols and grammar and all that ish and its still a book and you can still understand now if you want to be smart and all that start a forum for grammar and punctuation this is about automobiles not grammar :wtf:
thirdgen.org is so much better real auto people on there to talk about cars and how to fix them not how too spell and write properly :wtf: i think i got to find a new forum for my cord
this is the internetZ bro... lot of people don't use grammar but stay over here don't let one guy ruin your experience over here at this site
Well, I could care less about spelling or commas as I can make sense of what's been written most of the time. But I do have a problem reading sentences with no periods, especially in threads trying to understand what is being explained. If you don't want to use periods, atleast start a new line with every sentence. The reply might be longer, but at least it won't be a big block of words.
Don't take offence too much. In the end, we are just trying to help you with your car. I don't think there is another site that can help you as much with the 3rd gen Accords as this one.
HAHAHAHA yeah i guess it will help me and the car that way i get better at grammar and all that stuff i hated in school. Random question just trowing it out there whats a great fuel cleaner/additive for every fill up, or whats a great cleaner that will clean really well.So far only tried lucas, I pretty much want a one time use cleaner and I guess ill call it a conditioner just to keep it clean.
Ok my grammar still isnt great or good at all but hang with me it might get better.Sorry if i pissed people off but I was never good in school:banghead:
Ha:stupid:
I don't use additives in any of my cars. The only time I use it is if a car I bought or a car I'm working on has clearly been neglected (sludge in the engine, stuff like that). For the most part, a good tune up and new filters is good enough to make the car run very well.
Actually, I do use a fuel additive in my mom's 98 Accord since those cars don't have a fuel filter and it's a part of the regular maintenance schedule. I just buy what's recommended from the dealer. Also, if you want to try something, I always hear good things about Techron made by Chevron. But I'm up in Canada, not sure if they have Chevron in the US.
Oh yes chevron is my station love their gas but since gas is more expensive than an ounce of gold. Yes start your comments now I down graded to ARCO!!!!, as for the Techron yes I have seen it next time im in the auto parts I will pick up a boottle.
THANKS YK86 your one of the few members thats putting input on most threads. Is this site not well Known or whats the deal.
'PEA' is the key ingredient you want to look for in a fuel system cleaner. Techron, Redline, Regane, I'm sure there are others but check to make sure it's got a good dose of PEA.
Will clean up valve and combustion deposits as well, fuel injector spray and carb jets. It's the real deal.
I replaced the O2 sensor on my '88 a few years ago. Can't say it improved (already good) gas milage, but it did seem to run a bit better. Passed emissions with less than .1 max. I think it improved that count.
Nice is there a chance of too much PEA and. thanks personally which one is or works better for you.
Follow directions on the product; If you need to blow out a bunch of carbon deposits, put a full bottle in a tank and get some spirited driving on it. Warm it up good then climb some hill at WOT a few times. I use a couple ounces of Redline SI1 in each fill up. Maybe too much trouble for a car that see more miles, my Accord is semi-retired.
Another way to go is run a good dose through before every oil change.
http://www.redlineoil.com/content/fi...ech%20Info.pdf
Got you thank youvery much for that info nice hope it cleans that great.
Just got me a bottle
Every fill up/one time- not sure what that means.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lg310
Seafoam is a good one.
Like should I add a like redline and after redline use a stp fuel cleaner
I appreciate the comments. I try to post when I can but I was away from this board for over 6 years I think. Just this year I started posting again.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lg310
This site has a lot of members who know their stuff, but as they get older and life priorities change (and some don't even have a 3rd gen anymore), there's just no time to be helping people on the internet when you need to be working in the real world. Lets face it, it's a 86-89 Accord, which are consider quite old now. I was 22 when I first joined this site and my 86 Accord cost me $5000. I will be 33 in a couple months and my 89 SEi cost me $500 lol.
As for your last question, I REALLY feel additives are a waste if you are using a bottle every fill up or one after the other. Like how much does that stuff cost? If you are thinking Chevron is too expensive and now using Arco, isn't that difference you save on not using additives better spent just getting good gas with the good additive already in it? That's just my point of view though.
True you have a point there lol never thought about that
I'll second YK86 on the use of special additives. If you are using good quality gas, lubes and chemicals in the first place, you won't need them. If you can't afford good gas, then hit it with the occasional bottle of injector cleaner when it starts running bad. Go easy on the injector cleaner though. Too much can cause other problems. I would avoid Seafoam, but that's just my opinion. Some people swear by it. Others have blown up their engines with it.
Wats your take on redline si1
Combustion deposit problems are real, and using 'Top Tier' gas will definitely help avoid it:
http://www.toptiergas.com/
...Arco isn't on the list.
PEA is simply the best additive for the job.
.... Or convert to natural gas and never have deposits again.
Maintenance dose for Redline is 1.5 oz per 10 gallons. Whole bottle is only to treat a dirty engine. ...It beats paying a shop $200 for injector rail cleaning, and usually works just as well.
It's on the exhaust manifold, plain as day.
FI has two on front of manifold, carb'd has one on the passenger side of manifold.
