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3geez Mac & Cheeze baby, I didn't even know these existed when I stumbled upon it on the net.
Now I will finally be able to get some air to that cheez ellz yeahz
well dam I just discoverd I can't post pics either now, wtf none of the buttons on the template work, thought it was just smileys... guesss yall have to guess what I bought.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...0606111615.jpg
ok, browser not freindly
you are making a KAI? Kraft air intake? :tongue:
yeah yeah datz the ticket
Uhm I'm such a newb- I don't get it :(
It has nothing to do with newb...i have no idea what is going on.Quote:
Originally Posted by TotaledTL
Looks like some sort of cover for the carb. Maybe an adapter of some sort?
my theory is that he was looking up some carb parts and thats a pic that he found.
it's an HHO generator it makes hydrogen from those packets of powdered cheese :rolleyes:
you thought I was joking didn't you? here's proof cheese as fuel, it's on the interwebz so it's true!! http://www.squidoo.com/cheesefuel
macaroni and cheese for the mother f**%^&##&$%king win!!
yes YES, somebody gets it!Quote:
Originally Posted by AccordB20A
it is an adapter for Weber DG carbs, it permits the use of standard USDM type air cleaner.
Before only the tiny little Weber air cleaners were available, the best you could do was get a tall one to get proper air flow.
This can be used to make a CAI, A shaker hood scoop, a low rise ram air set up, a fake blower style air cleaner, many more options.
Hood clearance will be an issue or not depending on what is chosen, heh not a big deal since cutting a hole in the hood was bound to happen eventually.
I own this item, cost 41 bucks from TJ Outfitters, a yota truck aftermarket store.
I want to see the accord with a 70's style blower sticking out of the hood. Thats your 1st mission.
Nice! What are your plans? CAI?
Also, really big rear wheels with traction bars.Quote:
Originally Posted by mykwikcoupe
don't give him ideas!Quote:
Originally Posted by w261w261
wat
So the factory air cleaner box/filter can be used (adequate hood clearance)? Could you share w/ us the part #? I can't read it in the pic. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
Weber 32/36 and 38 Style
B = 5 1/8"
99010.457
Price $26.95
See: http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/adaptors2.htm
5th item from the top- Is that it? Cheaper too.
How do I post images or use smiles, etc.? None of them work-
Edit: Another source, w/ pic: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product...mber=99010.457
This just fizzled out, oh well.
Not frizzled out, I ordered a bunch of suspension parts from rock auto and I will be doing some long awaited work on the LX. My focus drifting somewhat.
I need to decide what kind of air induction set up I want... any of those mentioned earlier works for me so it just depends on what I can resource in the near future.
I had to use chrome to post the pics, IE not working on the board here for some reason.
I don't know if it would or not, the adapter is for USDM type air cleaners. IF I wanted to use the oem one I would have cut out the bottom of it and welded in the bottom of the weber style to the oem housing.Quote:
Originally Posted by TotaledTL
this looks interesting for my adapter...
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...pe-98599_w.jpg
Found this 9 inch universal 5 1/8 four barrel breather at the pull a part.
This helped tremendously and breaths much better and clears the hood!
Guess I have neglected the engine compt., very ugly at this point.
Maybe get a cooler breather assy later when I get a spare hood and do some painting.
I needed to get the car driveable for winter so changed idle jets and added this and it made a world of difference.
[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...0928111326.jpg[/IMG]
carb'd dual cam?! what's this??
Also, I'm here because Mac and Cheese is my favorite food on earth <3
CARB'D DOHC FTMFW!!!!
So jelly.
It's a B20A out of an overseas 86 - 89 Accord, Vigor or a 2G lude. Carburetion is achieved by using an A20 intake from a carbureted USDM Accord of the same years along with some other mods. I have a Gold Top B20A for mine that I'm waiting until after the first of the year to put in which will also be carbureted unless I find a 2 door that has FI before then.
yeah baby yeah, whats this? macaroni and whats this who put cheese in it, no way? yes way! what a combination! winna winna chickin dinnahhh..
looky here at what another member was working on though....
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3..._girl/6667.jpg
Sweet Guy. Give me some details you know that's what I'm wanting to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
Guy you got me thinking and scheming now. Hmmmmm I'll post my mock up in a couple weeks. It's a done deal. Glad that dude never showed up to buy my spare intake now.
I wonder how that carb'd B20 stands up against a FI B20 in terms of power.
that one isn't mine Steve but I did miss out on this top piece of a two piece V6 intake I saw at the flea market.. was gone when I came back around to buy it. Would have made a great flange to start with.
http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/30...350-3789_1.jpg
I wouldn't know since Ive never driven one. It does ok though Im sure it could use some fine tuning.Quote:
Originally Posted by Edison Carasio
In comparison though I have had this same set up on an A20 and it did have more low end power than my 87 A20A3 , also had another 32-36 weber on the engine that came out of this LX and it felt more powereful.
Still without dyno there is no documented proof either way right.
This wasn't planned really it just happened to be the easiest way to get the swap going since it was not and LXi, I still have the FI intake manfold that came the engine.
Oh okay. I thought maybe it was one you picked up from somewhere or someone. Well I have a good idea on how to make one now after looking at that picture it sent the hamster wheel in my head to spinning off of it's axle.Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
I'm thinking 4 barrel all aluminum SOLID spacer plate, the kind with 4 holes not open plenum so it has more side meat, holes drilled through it with countersunk allen head bolts to attach it to intake manifold then mark the intake via the spacer holes and see if there's enough meat on the intake to support it. Front to back will not be a problem there is plenty of room I know from experience with the Holley 2 barrel on mine. Side to side does concern me a little if memory serves me right there's not a lot of extra meat width wise since it was a factory 2 barrel but I shall see. Worst case scenario would be to open the plenum up on the spacer after modifying it to bolt to the intake, open the intake up front to back and then side to side kind of make it so it kind of funnels down from the spacer into the intake in lieu of there just being a a flat surface there. Of course this is assuming you can get it to seal up on the intake in the first place which may be a whole different problem that may take some welding and fabrication beyond the scope of my equipment and possibly abilities.
On a side note I'm going to try and have mine Dynoed if the cost isn't too bad when I make the swap. If I can afford to then I'll have some comparison numbers for carbed vs FI.
there is a part of a thread on the one I first posted up here, a member named A20A1 was working on it.
Guy,
Yeah I went and found that thread. Hmmm several different ways one could tackle this I suppose. A custom tubing and sheet metal intake comes to mind right off the bat. However, mocking up the stock manifold with the 4 barrel adapter and having it welded up is probably a better option though? Maybe an FI intake even, although I'd have to look how their setup? I think their a split plenum but the way their split not sure how feasible it would be to make an adapter? Probably be easier to make a dual 2 barrel or 4 barrel setup on one of those? Which I don't want.
There wasn't enough material on the back of the adapter to bolt it down to the manifold like I did at the front.Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
Also like Apache mentioned, a 4hole spacer would be better for drilling the bolt holes, I ran out the edge drilling the counter sink for the front bolts.
I would also use Torx head bolts now instead of Allen head.
Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
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mike89accordLx had a dual intake adapter
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http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...bgaragephp.jpg
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Here was the 4160? and the Q-Jet. :)
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http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...l/media1-3.jpghttp://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...rl/rq001-1.jpg
The Q-Jet would not work without a throttle plate spacer/adapter
Have you considered carbs that package better on a 4 cylinder? A pair of DCOEs may be expensive new, but I've found decent sets at swap meets (at Daytona International Speedway) a few times. Hell, I came across a Kawasaki 750 that had a set of good carbs on it for $100. That would have done what you need, and it would package very well behind the engine.
Apachee, I'm just up in Palatka, which isn't too terribly far from Winter Haven, if you're familiar with the area. I can show you how to mount up the motorcycle carbs and give you a cut-down intake manifold that's almost ready for a set of motorcycle carbs. I had cut it down for a Weber setup, but I've since sold off all of my Webers.
A20A1 how the heck did you stumble across the mac and cheez? LOL
It seems we should use a hood scoop anyways to make clearance for even the downdraft Webers ! Mine still hits sometimes but the eng mounts are sloppy.
As for four barrels...
A Mercruiser inboard 4 cyl (3.7) uses a quadrajet. To give you an idea of the difference the carb can make, the 3.7 165 HP uses a "Mercarb" which is very close to a 2GV 2 bbl rochester. A 3" heat exchanger is used, exhaust manifold outlet basically.
The 190 HP 3.7, the very same engine set other than a quadrajet and 4" heat exchanger.
25 HP gain...
You hit the nail right on the head. If you're going with a big carb, you either need a really thin air cleaner, or you need to break out the sawzall and give that carb some elbow room.
Not to mention every racer I know that's gone from a big 4bbl to a set of Webers has picked up power. One of the locals made the swap on his SBC to triple IDAs and picked up 50HP at the wheels. He ran that setup for a year until it was banned because it made the cars too fast on track to be safe. I figured that's worth mentioning.
