Im going to be installing my weber 38 in the next couple weeks. Just waiting on parts. I live in north georgia and am seeing if any of yall wanna come over and help with the install and tuneing. Free beer lol
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Im going to be installing my weber 38 in the next couple weeks. Just waiting on parts. I live in north georgia and am seeing if any of yall wanna come over and help with the install and tuneing. Free beer lol
Got my adapter plate in the mail today. Weber was shipped today so now i just need to buy a FPR. Already have the old carb and all vacuum lines removed. Who wants to help?
Don't worry about the FPR, the stock fuel pump will fuel the Weber just fine.
Even though i have 4psi to the carb?Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy
you're 3 hrs away, that'd be alot of beer lol
If you have any problems I'm around ok..
Hey im up for plenty of beer lol. Roodoo its least i could do for some help, but yea i know ill need to pick ur brain.Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
Was anyone that installed a weber in their car able to keep their a/c going? If so what all did you have to keep hooked up, and to what?
You know what? That is the best kind of beer. Wish I lived in your area. I rebuilt, replaced, and retrofitted a number of carbs in the 80's and I kind of miss the old-school stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by 91
Yea im hopeing to get this carb on easy and fast. Main reason i was wanting help plus the fact i dont know carbs.
Just rip off all the old shit and bolt on the new one. The Weber swap was the FIRST real car project that I had ever done on my car aside from oil changes. So just dive right in, it's not NEARLY as bad as you think. The hardest part is making the linkage work, but with a little thinking, you should be able to make it work. The easiest thing to to is take the throttle cable adapter off of the stock carb, and make it fit on the Weber. Then you can use the stock cable.
Seriously, the whole project is:
1. rip off the old carb
2. bolt on the new carb
3. hook up fuel and throttle cable
4. start the car
You really can't fuck it up. Just start early like Friday night or Saturday morning and you'll be going by the weekend and ready to drive to work. Don't be a lazy ass and sleep in on Saturday or you won't get it done.
you CAN mess it up if you don't use caution putting on the adapter plates. Cleaning the surface, and then sealing the surface with the plates.
Torque down the bolts a little at at time each in a x pattern, and I use permatex HI TACK sealer that comes in a can with a brush on the gaskets surfaces. Anything else will be a headache eventually,
The Hi TACK doesn't goop up, is holds everyting in place and fills the very minor voids, AND lets you then remove it all with out sticking or tearing up gaskets.
Also use care installing the studs for the new carb onto the plate because if you put them in too far, or inadvertenly screw them in as you tighten the nuts later, you will warp the plates because the stud that goes in the most is pushing the two plates away from each other.
Use just a hint of lock tight on the countersunk bolts with the hex heads on them, those are the ones that vibrate out.
DO not drop anything down in the intake while youre working or you may have to take it off which is a bugger.
I got really lucky once and dropped a screw that holds the air cleaner on, down into the carb. I didn't notice this till months later and it was a shock because it got caught betweeen the venturi and a booster venturi and stayed there. whewwwww
Went to Ace today and bought something to fill the coolant hole under the carb. I ended up getting a 1/2" rubber tube that fits in the hole and it has a screw that fits in the middle and as you tighten it the rubber expands and fills up the hole. Im hopeing this will seal the hole good enough so it doesnt leak. The screw heads just fits under the adapter plate. Has anybody tried this method?
If you countersunk the hola little, JB weld is fine but you sand it down flush after it sets.Quote:
Originally Posted by 91lowrider
The last one I did I just tapped the hole out with threads and used a headless hex set screw which worked neat.
Thing is though I never hooked up the coolant lines to the intake afterwards anyway so there is no chance for water in the air but you probably would need to block it anyway in case that could be a vac leak depending on the design of the weber carb base config. .
I do recommend leaving the coolant lines connected because these Webers can be temperature sensative , especially now with the ethanol blended gas so having the intake warmed up will help atomization and keep the intake warm on really cold days.
Yea i was gonna tap threads and do the headless hex screw but noone has the 37/64 drill bit needed to widen the hole to use the 3/8 pipe tap. Not to mention thats a little more expensive. So i had to try this method. Do you not think this way will work?Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
Woah wait a second here!
That hole is not a coolant hole on the 2nd gen...
I assume this is the location of the hole you're trying to plug... http://i.imgur.com/do9Bd.jpg
That is the CVCC aux intake. You definitely don't want to plug that up. The 2g doesn't have coolant that goes up into the carb. That hole is what feeds fuel to your CVCC aux combustion chambers, and while it may run fine with that plugged, I believe there may be unintended consequences if you do.
2nd Gen Advice ^^^
not my area, I was under the impression there was a hole that was round that would be tappable with threads as described.
Also, were all 2nd Gen CVCC?
Yep thats the one. I thought it was a coolant hole. Thanks for the info on that, you saved me time and money. Whew i feel alot better not having to worry about that.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy
How exactly do you get the stock throttle linkage to work on the Weber? What all do i have to do?Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy
Bump. The weber will be here Monday.
Yeah, all the US models except for the SE-i were CVCC.Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
Well, I've never done it this way myself, but it should be pretty much just like in the 3rd gen Weber How To thread. Just undo the nut on the end of the throttle linkage, pop off the little butterfly plate that the throttle cable connects to, and put it on the Weber. I think you might have to ream it out or reshape the hole to make it it fit on the Weber linkage, but I've never looked closely enough to know exactly how that works.Quote:
Originally Posted by 91lowrider
I usually take off the oem linkage tab that the cable fits in then adapt it over to the weber linkage tab. I have done this a number of different ways, by drilling and bolting it in some fashion depending on what hardware I scrounge up or welding it together.
It is important though to have the geometry right, indexed corrrectly on the new carb. This is so you have a reliable cable connection that doens't need constant tweeking, and to have full motion of the cable to achieve full throttle of the carb.
I recently put the DFEV on the B20, removing the 38 DGS. I had an issue with the transmission TV cable not being able to adjust up far enough. It turned out to be the throttle cable had about 1/4inch slack at the throttle linkage. That is all it took to throw off the auto tx, having it adjusted all the way out.
Well i got the linkage installed but now i have a couple other issues to work on. First the cable bracket is too close to the carb so i have to find a way to move it back away from the carb. Second is i need another spacer to lift the carb higher. The trottle cant open all the way because it is hitting the bottom adapter plate (i.e. Not enough clearance). Does anyone have a spare spacer they could part with?
can you take a picture for us? Maybe we can figure out a way to get it working without having to add another spacer or hack up anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by 91lowrider
Stock cable is to long if i bolt the bracket on the carb bolts.
https://mail-attachment.googleuserco...J0Nvg&sadssc=1
This is where about it would need to be to work.
https://mail-attachment.googleuserco..._PNdMXsIsw3plQ
The left gear is hitting the adapter plate when opening the throttle. The gap there is how far it would need to be raised i guess. Maybe a few more gaskets?
https://mail-attachment.googleuserco...hX0o0ZO-xlpq8s
Also i just noticed but i believe when i ordered my adapter plate kit they sent me the one for a 32/36 but i have a 38. Does this matter or do i need to get a 38 spacer and gaskets? Do they have a weber 38 adapter plate?
yes please do that.. the first thing that came to my mind was if the carb could be flipped around so the linkage is on the other side.Quote:
Originally Posted by turabaka
Also using the oem curved cable cam piece like weve mentioned, helps to shorten the space of the cable from the bracket without acually shortening the cable.. And it allows full travel of the throttle.
I will post a pic of my current DFEV linkage here in a bit so you can get an idea.
well i tried posting pics up but for some reason they are not coming up. Why?
I do have it sitting on there with the linkage on the driver side so the cable would pull from the front. I tried turning it around and seeing but it still hits a little preventing WOT, but not as bad as the other way. But with it turned this way the oem cable would have to be ran around the carb to pull from the rear and the cable is still to long.Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
http://m1058.photobucket.com/albumlist/91lowrider1
Here is pics of my problems.
OH! You have a Weber 38! Yeah, I had the same problem on my car. You'll have to buy a spacer to make that work.
[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...425121252a.jpg[
keep in mind this is a DFEV which has the linkage on the passenger side, backwards but the principal of the cable hook up is the same.
So you had to use 2 spacers? I have one but its only 1/8 thick.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy
I was able to hook up the carb to see how she would run and i was leaking fuel out of this hole. Does anyone know what this would be?
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/...1/44bdbfeb.jpg
If i can get the carb raised up just a little bit so the gear doesnt hit i believe i have the cable problem figured out. Should i just put a few more gaskets in?
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/...der1/photo.jpg
Whatever u do dont damage those gears or get them out of synch!
You need serious spacers there nd as for the hole mine is just a hole not any passage but then i dont see hoe you cudda run it without the base being sealed so it may be because of that?
I had turned the carb around so it would sit flush and bolted it down. i wasnt able to open the throttle very far but it was far enough to get it running and see that hole leaking. I ordered a 1/8 spacer and gaskets a bit ago so they should be here by friday. I believe i have everything figured out but that leak.Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
Yeah, I remember specifically having to add the spacer on my car. It was annoying because I was SO CLOSE to running, then I had to wait another week for the part.
Yea i ordered another spacer to go on there but right now my big problem is the fuel leaking from that passage port in the side of the carb. Any ideas what it is for? Pic is in thread number 32.
Shit, you've got me. Could be some sort of vent for the float bowl maybe and your float level is too high? (pulling this out of my ass)
What is the float level suppose to be set at?Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy
Do this: http://www.cjclub.co.il/files/Float_Level_1.pdf
Then this: http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/adjust.htm
When adjusting the 38 though, you have TWO idle screws, since both barrels are used equally. So you need to make sure to adjust the idle screws identically, as this guide suggests.
Im looking at a DGV I have on my desk and the bowl is very simialr. That hole is soldered up on this one. It appears to be linked to the power valve circuit judging by the location. That is such a low point on the carb i don't think float level has anything to do with it but certainly getting that level adjusted is key to the set up so just do it....
If there was a restriction in the E tube , air corrector jet area I could see how that would back up some flow from the jet or power valve either one. This could force out fuel I suppose.
On my 38 that hole is open but I don't have it handy at the moment. It looks like though the hole above that is a vent or overflow from the accel pump circuit and the hole in question is connected to either the main jet or pv.
Note the channel directly under the power valve in teh picture, it crosses over to align with the hole if you cross sectioned it horizontally...
[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...0426121417.jpg[/IMG]
Ok so i opened up the carb a bit ago and found out that the fuel is going in this hole,
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/...r1/photo-8.jpg
And out this one. What is this passage and how should i plug this hole?
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/...1/44bdbfeb.jpg
The other hole in the bowl doesnt leak out the carb because the outside holes on the otherside of the carb are filled.
Would it hurt anything if i tapped a screw or put putty in that outside hole to seal it up?
Can't hurt to try. As long as you can take it out later. :)
I adjusted my float and bolted the carb up with the new spacer and it still leaks. Also turned my regulator to 2 1/2psi. I need help tuning this thing. Spent 2 hours out there and nothing changed. Could someone that knows these things maybe come up this weekend and help me out? I could probably help with gas.
If someone can make it up here tomorrow afternoon ill make sure to have a 1" thick ribeye steak and beer for your help getting this car running.
Well i worked on it a little more this afternoon. I put a little quick steel in that outside hole that was leaking gas and it sealed it up (gas is staying in the lines and in the carb). I ended up uping the jets to 45's since while trying to tune i was around 4 turns out on the mixture screws. I can get it to run smooth but when put in gear it wont go over 1500 rpm. Im new to setting carbs so im stumped.
you have my #
Well i had the car running for a few days and put a 100+ miles on it. Was driving it home from work yesterday and it died at a stop sign on me and everytime i slowed down from then on. Got it home and found out my gaskets are leaking under the carb. Tried sealing them back up but came to find out one of my spacer are a little warped. Im going to go to work tomorrow and make a single spacer out of wood to put under there and seal it up. Also have to replace the oil pan gasket since im leaking a quart of oil a day.
I don't know about the wood spacer. I think it will probably expand and contract too much to ensure a good seal under the carb. And the fuel will probably break it down quickly, and possibly be a fire hazard...
So how did it drive other than the stalling?
Well my boss has a wood one on his big block in his blazer and it seems to run good. He has drove it cross country with it. Could possibly spray a sealer coat on it so it would soak up the gas. Im gonna talk to him tomorrow.
As for the driving of it, it had a dead spot up until 10mph then it had the throttle respond i would want. Shiftpoints are almost where i want them. I run 55mph alot and where its at it runs 3k rpm at 55 but as soon as i hit 60 it will shift. Its almost there. Little more tweaking and i think she will be there.
Well here it is. What do you all think? This is a 1/2in maple spacer that my boss and I made today. It wont be till tomorrow afternoon before i can try it out.
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/...r1/photo-9.jpg
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/...1/photo-10.jpg
Ok so i couldn't wait lol. I went out there and installed it to make sure it seals good. And it does. Now to change the oil pan gasket. Also, my three lights on the dash (oil filter, oil change and service interval) are red. What does that mean and how do i get them to change back? Oil and filter are new, maybe 200 miles on them.
Well i recieved my oil pan gasket today. I have everything off and ready to be cleaned and reinstall. Just have to go pick up some mineral spirits and rtv then ill be in business.
When adjusting the float level in a weber, is there a difference between dgv and dgs? I know the dgv float level but am wondering if my dgs would be the same settings.
Yes i would think , because you're measuring float drop and the tOp hats are about identical.
The differences in float level basicly depend on engine, sea level, and emulsion tubes .
Text me if you need anything, I have a weber book and carbs unlimites has info sheets on all webers.
Just a guess but I'd try an unbent paper clip in each of the little slots beneath the maintenance indicators. Mine haven't come on yet or I would have tested this theory already.
In the manual it says to use the car key in those little slots underneath to reset them.Quote:
Originally Posted by huntz0r
