That's it....

FUCK!!!!!! After all the damn money i put in this car, my oil pressure light went on last saturday night when i was at home, and we found out that the antifreeze is leaking into the oil. We dont' know if it's a gasket or the actual block. I don't know what to do, but i'm off at school and i think my dad's either going to get rid of it or try and sell it. So i know this isn't in the marketplace threads, and it's not certain yet, but i might be selling her and i'd be aosome if someone on the board wanted her to fix up. I'll let you guys know.

ynot keep it and try to fix it? Sounds like it could just be a head gasket.

Yea, but isn't that really expensive?

can u do it? if you can... then its like 100 bucks... if not.... than yah... its alot... maybe you could just get a new engine?

Travis

I was wondering about that....how much would it be to put one of thos B series engines in there? Or even another A series?

a series is 500 or so... B series will be over 3500... depends if you want any parts to make it faster

Travis

A direct engine swap will not take to long. the longest part is getting it into the car and making sure everything works. I would suggest getting a b series. but if money is tight just get an a20

Where would i go to get an A series? Dealership

how about a junkyard. Besides. U gotta be busting YOUR ass off to do it. I am probably gonna have to do it, but u need an engine hoist. So be Prepared.

You can rent a engine hoist for about 25$/day and you can get a used engine at wreckers, phone around and find the best deal with the lowest KM - Used engine should be no more than $400

yeah but either way, id look into fixing the engine you got before looking at swaps. Buys you time... My grandma had a head gasket majorly blow in her 87 accord lx and all it needed was the new gasket and the labor to put it in, so you that might be all you need. You wont know for sure until you take it apart.

sounds like a head gasket... just fix it yourself, the basic PITA is disconnecting the valves.. but it is a good amount of work

I think i'm going to try and fix the car myself, i have nothing to loose, would anyone out there be willing to make a detailed how-to on replacing a head gasket. It'd be alot of help and save time, since i only have a week to fix it, if i could just follow some directions instead of trying to figure it out myself. Thanks for all the help everyone.

isnt a new seal like 20 bucks at AZ(auto zone)?

Just take the engine apart a lil'...in the car.. check the seals ect...no real mess

Well i have some good news. I talked my dad into not getting rid of the car, so i'm going to work on it next summer. I found a pretty good how-to on replacing the head gasket in AutoZone's website, but if anyone has or can get a better more detailed one, i'd help alot. Until then, i'm looking at this '91 prelude Si. You guys have any feedback on it.

Aight, i'm going to be going home in about a week and i'm going to get my car ready to store it away until i can work on it next summer. Now i want to drain all the oil cause i just don't want that mixture of oil and antifreeze sitting in my engine. I also think i'm going to drain all the antifreeze from the radiator. If I'm just going to be storing the car in the garage do i need to put in new oil and antifreeze for whatever reason?

well you know where to post if you have any questions. good luck

Don't refilll the radiator with coolant, it will probably just leak into the oil pan. Drain the oil and coolant, remove the plugs, and spray WD40 into the cylinders. There's no need to fill it with oil, either. That should keep it until you're ready to work on it.

I hate to say this, but if you lost oil pressure, you may have more problems than just a blown headgasket. Pull the oil pan and oil pump, then clean both, and inspect the oil pump for damage. While you're under the car, you may as well pull a rod and main cap and look at the bearings. If all looks good, then go buy the head gasket and put her back together. Good luck.

use Marvel Mystery Oil, it works better than WD40

yeah it does but its tough to find, mr goodwrench heat valve lubricant works great too, as does PBlaster

I'm just making sure on this, but when you say spray WD40 into the cylinders, you mean by taking off the valve cover right? Or is there another way? Also what's the best way to inspect the oil pump for damage?

Scott, spray the lube into the spark plug holes (it doesn't matter if you use WD-40, MMO, or any other penetrating oil). It will lubricate the cylinder bores and keep the rings from sticking to them until you're ready to work on it. Don't worry about how much you spray in there, as you want to fully coat the metal surfaces.

When you inspect the pump, you're looking for a plugged up oil strainer, heavily scored or siezed rotors, and any debris. Check the strainer first and clean it. It could just be that it got clogged from all the radiator garbage.

Just when you guys thought this post would never come up again......Alright, now i've drained all the fluids and sprayed WD-40 in all the cylinders. Now i'm attempting to get to my oil pump and the first thing i have to do is remove the timing belt....so the first step of removing the timing belt is to "rotate the crankshaft to align the flywheel pointer to Top Dead Center of the No. 1 cylinder's compression stroke." How do I tell when it's rotated to that position? Also is there any other way to test the oil pump then taking it out of the car? Thanks

So....does anyone know what that means or how to tell or should I just try some stuff and see how it goes? Thanks

between the engine and tranny facing the radiator there is a small window (somtimes it has a rubber plug in it) and when you can see the timing marks when they come into the window thats #1 tdc. You can also see it on the cam gear when the word UP is in in the up position.