Alright guys, in response to the popularity of tons of new threads popping up asking the same question over and over, I though I might try my hand at summarizing a lot of the 3rd Generation Accord Performance related questions.
Engine/Transmission/Head Swaps
The only engine from other vehicles that will bolt (almost) directly in is the B20 from the JDM/EDM Accords. No Prelude or other B20 motor will fit, as these motors lean the opposite directions and you must use different mounts. To use this motor, you must come up with a rear transmission mount (some call this a bracket, most of the time it will come with the motor in question).
Recently, there has been a lot of discussion over the ease at which you can come up with one of these B20 motors. I’m confident that if you look hard enough (NZ is a good place to start looking) you can find one.
B16, B18A/B, B18C1/5, B20Z/B…etc
These will require either custom fabricated mounts, axles, and shift linkage. Place Racing used to make a kit for us, they no longer do. Occasionally a set of these will pop up for sale, but without the shift linkage or axles. Legend_master came up with a solution for the axle crisis, and you can see his thread here:
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49155
H22/F22
Has been done, but it requires extensive modification. I trust that if your going to do this, you can do your own research.
K20/24
Hasn’t been done, but it will take TONS of modifications as well.
Transmission Swaps
No transmission will bolt directly onto the A-Series, BT or BS motors. If you have good fabrication or deep pockets, get an adapter plate to run other transmissions.
Head Swaps
There is only two heads that bolt directly onto the A20 Block.(Known heads) These include the A18 and the A20 heads. The The A18 Head will bump up your compression a bit, but the problem with the A18 head is the port spacing is pretty weird. What you would gain in compression you would probably lose in Volumetric efficiency.
Exhaust
Headers
Headers readily available are down to PaceSetter. These are decent, the gaskets are a little crappy and they don’t use a flex joint, so use at your own discretion, but they are a decent performance header, bang for buck for sure. Heres the Header write-up thread:
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37261
Exhaust Systems
These too are down to just Pacesetter (or Monza, whatever you wanna call it). This, again is decent. A lot of people complain because the muffler is crappy, but all in all it’s a cheap price for decently made mandrel bent piping, so cut the muffler off and get something else welded in its place.
Also, from what I’m to understand, 5th Gen Prelude exhaust systems work pretty well. Heres the thread on that:
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...relude+exhaust
Look to about the 9th post, everyone else seemed to think that it wouldn’t work until some1 said they were using it.
Intake
Intake Manifolds
Intake manifolds for the B16/B18 work pretty well, the ports line up well and all you really need to do is drill a couple of extra holes for this to work. Heres the thread on that:
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49453
Cold Air Intakes
There are lots of differing opinions on cold air intakes. True Cold air intakes work best because they pull air in from around the wheel well, which is a whole lot colder than the air that short ram intakes draw in from the engine bay. The problem with cold air intakes is that in the event of rain, you can drive through large puddles and suck water into your motor, causing bent rods (been there, done that, spent 1200 bucks…) or broken valves, cracked pistons, etc. This can easily be addressed with an Air Bypass Valve (AEM sells great ones for around 40 bucks, honestly a really good investment looking back….now I just run a short ram lol).
Anywho, CAI’s that fit our cars.
90-93 Integra
90-97 Accord
92-95 Civic
All of these need to be slightly modified. If you can work your way around with a screwdriver and a hacksaw, you’ll be OK.
OR you could make your own! This also has some pretty good install tips for the other ones.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=166
Engine Internal/External
Cam Gears
Golden Eagle has done a couple of group buys on these, your best bet is to pick one up from a member parting out his (or her, we can’t discriminate :-D) stuff. Other than that, you can have one custom made.
Thread:
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57336
Underdrive Pulleys
Custom only….sorry guys.
Accessories/Alternator
You can always free up a few horsies (and I mean a few…you’ll probably see bigger gains from dumping the weight rather than the parasitic loss..) by dumping A/C, Power Steering, Cruise Control. For Cruise and A/C, its pretty simple…just unbolt everything. Power steering is a larger issue. You either need to source a manual steering rack, or take some other route. Check post # 22 of this thread. It may be more difficult than you think.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...+steering+rack
As for converting a power steering rack to a manual, check this thread:
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...+steering+rack
As for alternators, I know I have read that 4th Gen Alternators bolt up to our cars with very little modification. When I went to search for the thread, I couldn’t find it. I would be more than happy to add this information if someone else could provide it.
Rods
Stock rods are decent, but don’t hold up much past the stock redline. If you want something a little beefier, you may want to get some custom ones made. That option is actually pretty expensive, so there is a couple of alternatives.
B18A/B Rods actually work great in our cars! The only problem that you will have with this is that the wrist pin is 21mm as compared to our 20mm wrist pins. You will have to have custom pistons made, or come up with some other pistons that will work in our blocks. If you are this savvy, I trust that you can do a little research.
Pistons
Custom made are pretty much all that’s available here. You can get some stock replacement pistons with slight overbores, but your best bet is to just to have some forged ones made, such as Diamond Racing, or Wiseco…etc. Again, if your this savvy I trust you can do a little bit of research.
Crankshaft
Stock or custom made. This would be pretty expensive, if your looking to upgrade the stock crank, have it knife edged and balanced.
Valve Train
Not much available here. Stock valve springs are good to the stock red line, but not much after that. A18 Dual valve springs and retainers (84-87 Prelude, Dual Carbs) are good to about 7200 RPM.
As for Cams, you can pick up one from Delta, which is a stock cam reground, for around 200 bucks. Look here for the thread on Cams:
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37583
Rocker Arms
Stock or custom made…our stock pieces are OK, but not great.
Valves
Stock or custom made. Stock valves should be fine, just do a good 3 or 5 angled valve job.
Headwork
A good port and polish, deburr, and valve job will definitely liven up your A20 head. Once you get a header and a B Series intake manifold on it, it’s a pretty good idea to have the head port matched, as this will definitely see some power gains.
Continued to next post