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Has anyone ever had to get their ball joints replaced for the rear? If so, I'd like to know how much did you pay; include labor, parts, DIY or shops.
Looking to see how much I should really pay for it.
Firestone is quoting me $500 for parts & labor for the rear, if can be done in your own garage, any tips?
Thanks Much!
do it in your own garage. Limited tools needed. Parts are $40 each or less. Drive up to marysville and Ill help you. Basic tools are a 12mm, 14mm, 17mm and a pickle fork or however you want to seprate the pieces. It takes longer to jack up, support the car and reassemble then it does to swap.
get one of those tie rod end pullers, about 10-15 bucks, they will seperate any ball joint on this car, they wanted to charge you that much for about 80 bucks worth of parts and a half hour job. :deal: they probably wanted to sell you an alignment too because it "would mess up the alignment to remove them" or other BS
Dude, seriously. The rear upper ball joint are the easiest to replace. As the others stated above. A cheap 2 jaw puller and a hammer is all you will need. You can even skip the puller and just hit the ball joint caddle of the steering knuckle really good and the ball joint will pop out.
I forgot about the pickle fork, easy balljoint separator.
The first should not take more than 30-45 minutes and the other side will take less time.
It is the best money you will ever save. Look to youtube for some balljoint replacements how to's.
Any time you change any suspension component you should get an alignment, no two parts are the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
I had my alignment guy change mine, 50 for parts, and 40 for labor since I was too lazy and he already had it on the rack.
What everyone said is very true. Very easy job, especially on the rear. Hell, buy me a two way ticket and a six pack and ill do it and still save you money
those should be so close, i can't see it causing a problem. they just wanted him to bend over and take it, geez 500 bucksQuote:
Originally Posted by Bglad420
I agree with lost. The rear upper replacement won't cause any major adjustment. No alignment will be needed.
Just have it checked. If you are concerned.
Putting groceries in the trunk will change alignment more than changing the upper arms.
hahaha!Quote:
Originally Posted by carotman
Fo realz.Quote:
Originally Posted by carotman
watch out for shops that try to charge for setting the camber too, some of the suspension geomety is fixed and only repairable by replacing parts. you can set the camber with lude front arms, but the stock ones are fixed. all you can adjust on the front is toe and caster
THANKS FOR THE IMPUT GUYS! :)
Yeah, I was going to FireStone to get an alignment done and they said 'upper ball joint is shot' which is true then they were saying 'it's unsafe to do an alignment w/o replacing ball joints' or some shit. & straight up quoted $500. The parts from Moog are like $40 bucks a pop. Don't see why it'll be so expensive and they it'll take like 3 hrs...
But hey mykwikcoupe. You said you can help me out right? Only problem I got with doing this on my own is that I live in an apartment and I don't exactly have the leisure to do this.
I got the sockets if you have that pick fork thing and a jack and maybe we can see if I can make it up to Marysville to get that shit done.
Thanks!
The upper ball joints are pre-assembled into the upper rear control arms so you replace the whole arm. An aftermarket pair I put on the car in 2008 was already bad this year so I went with Moog this time. Since the alignment adjustment affected by these arms is camber you WILL NOT need to get an alignment UNLESS you replace with adjustable upper arms which you can find if you look around.
Check out:
www.rockauto.com
moog or 3-5 is the only way to go.
YES,
been hearing alot of good things about Moog and I did alito more researching on the ball joints and lifted my car, yes it's in one piece be pointless to just buy the joint. A guy locally is going to help me. Saving me useless extra hundreds at Firestone :P
Thanks guys again!
It'll still cost you something, what is up to you. I dont work for free but I do like people to show there appreciation. Doesnt have to be money, parts and whatever works. Anything really. Charlie trades me stuff he doesnt want and always says thanks. Matter of fact, he knows more about these cars history then I do know. Dang
That's just ignorant right there. If you were swapping ONLY the ball joint then yeah you can get away with out an alignment assuming it is in check prior. But if your changing out an entire suspension component such as a control arm you NEED to get an alignment as no two parts are the same, and the geometry varies part to part.Quote:
Originally Posted by DBMaster
the parts like this are made to such tight tolerances as to keep the alignment set, thats another reason to go with a quality part, it's not difficult to hold the tolerances within a few thousandths, also parts like this are made in jigs to ensure they are all the same. It's no different then the front upper arms setting camber, which isn't adjustable. these parts aren't like suspension componets from the 70's where the toleances were all over the place. so you are saying you should set the front camber too, which can't be set factory, because the arms might be different?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bglad420
he never said anything about camber, he said you should always get an alignment after changing a suspension part. the point is the car was aligned with an old warn out part, then you put a new part on, it's not going to be anywhere near the same as the old warn out part. just because when the old part was new it would be near the same doesn't mean that after several years of wear and tear that it somehow, magically will be within 1000ths of an inch the same as the BRAND NEW PART.Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
there's a right way and a safe way to do everything, sure you don't NEED to get it aligned, but you don't NEED to drive the speed limit. shit happens, why not prevent it if you can?
i suppose you don't need to heatshrink wires or solder them either right? same concept.
Excuse me, guys, but the only alignment spec that can be changed by a rear UCA replacement is camber and this is NOT adjustable unless you buy an adjustable UCA. So, what is the point of the alignment aside from spending money?
Fine, don't believe me, if you like. I have owned this car since 1989 and I am on my third set of rear UCA's. I know what I am talking about. Save your money. Of course, if you have cash to burn, go right ahead with the alignment!
all of the suspension geometry acts together, even though there are no fine tune adjustments that you are changing one different part effects the whole system. that's cool that you've owned the car since 89, i'll still have my opinion regardless.
say if you replace the upper arm balljoint thing in the rear and the replacement part is shorter or longer than the one that comes off, it will change the camber, Yes, but changing camber also changes the toe. probably not enough to actually affect the handling/tyre wear but it still changes it.
Ive only done three alignments in my life, im still learning but this is what i have been shown.
I wasn't trying to start an argument I was just making the point, that the high quality replacement arms are going to be so close to factory specs, that an alignment is not needed, in the case of the front arms, you can't set camber anyway. the part actually sets the camber
