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My 86 LX has fuel dripping from the AAP, symptoms started slow to accelerate from a stop to flooding from giving it gas ar cold start.
Since I need to remove the carb to get to this part, I have a rebuild kit for the carb, anything I should keep an eye on while doing this? What's with the " Don't flip the carb upside down" urban legend?
I have the parts and ready to to this fix. Any tips or pointers are appreciated.
any mods that can move this thread to carb tech? I am going to work in this over the weekend, and write down steps to do this. I do believe that a lot of flooding when cold are related , to some extent to this issue.
I'll say a prayer and light some candles for you.
Fortunately, I don't need to take the carb apart, as the AAP is sort of a stand alone part. I do need to remove the carb out of the vehicle thought. I have tons of labels and a camera to aid in the process of connecting all spaghetti liness back. If I could, I would switch to a webber , but in AZ, we have emissions. Sucks. Since I am in no rush, I will take my sweet time and probably some liquid courage after every session.
So this is my first time removing the carbutaror, I am 2 hours in stop and go.
All lines are pretty much disconnected with the exception of the electrical connector and a hose.
The red hose that plugs into the back, had to cut it as it wouldn't budge, not much room to use my hose pliers. I'll replace that with a similar hose.
I already removed the 4 nuts holding down the carb, it is loose.
Minor coolant leak.
once I get this connector and hose unplugged, I'll attempt to pull the carb out.
Taking lots of pics to aid in the reassembling process.
Update: The only thing left now is to remove rhe rivets on the electric choke cover, then I can pull this carb out. Has to wait til tomorrow as I need to get ready to go to work.
Some info I found that perfectly describes my problem with the AAP:
Another symptom of a faulty accelerator pump is engine sputtering or stalling. The sputtering is caused by the lack of fuel that is supposed to be provided by the accelerator pump when throttle is rapidly pressed. In more serious cases of accelerator pump failure, rapidly pressing on the gas may cause the engine to stall, again due to the lean condition that can be created when the accelerator pump is not working.
Carb with new AAP is back in the car, need to tie up a couple of vac lines and I will be ready to crank it up and see if all is well. Removing the carb for the first time seemed like a daunting task, once removed you can see that is not that bad. Just need to have a clear mind and take lots of pics of sections you are working in to help you reconnect lines.
Having a set of long hose pliers, picks, tweezers, ratchets, extensions and sockets, help tremendously. Also spare vacuum and fuel hoses.
For those little cutter pins, I used dental floss to hook them before installing them. If you drop them you can easily hold on to them as they will be hanging on the dental floos. I also removed the top hat of the carb to inspect and clean the fuel bowl . Used new gasket for the top only. I did not rebuilt the carb, only the AAP.
Battery will have a full charge. Can't wait to have my ol' lady up and running.
OK, so I was ready to start the car, I primed the fuel pump and I noticed fuel coming from the top of my primary needle. So probably I concentrated on the fuel leaking from my AAP that overlooked the fuel coming from the needle. I removed the top hat, and I see now that in order to replace the primary needle, I need to remove the pin or hinge to the fuel bowl. I'll try to push the pin out so I can replace the needle and attempt to start the car again. I need a vice to try to do this, this is it, the only thing holding me back from finishing this repair.
New needle with new o-rings replaced, and now my car is up and running! Perfect idle, no more hesitation when accelerating from stop.
No more flooding when cold.
Damn it feels good to have my car back up and running after 5 months.
Nice work. Congrats on a very difficult repair!
