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Is there any difference in the EGR valve for the 3rd and 4th gen Accords?
I work at a part store and the only "new" EGR valve they had in our area was for the 4th gen Accord, and even those are being phased out.
As far as I can see.... they use the same part # for gasket and have a similar 3 wire connection (the biggest difference is the plug.)
So I did the swap and everything worked as is should.
After determining the values of open and closed ohm rating to be identical I decided to proceed take the wire cutters to a brand new 4th gen EGR valve and solder on my OEM plug.
It was actually pretty easy, the only snag I ran into was getting a direct shot on the mounting nuts with a socket. After a few attempts I decided to thrash the old part by twisting and bending the top portion of the valve out of way. It was a mangled mess, but at least I was able to break the old nuts loose without rounding them out (however, I was now committed without really knowing the status of the old part.)
After looking at the bottom of the old EGR I could tell you I made the right decision (it was so full of crud). Any car that has 300K miles or more can really benefit on doing this job. The car runs and idles SO much better.
So there you are.... a EGR valve from a 4th gen Accord works just fine on a 3rd gen Accord LXi. Hope this helps get some of you guys out a jam if you're looking for NEW parts for your classic Accord.
TIP: The center (white) wire on both plugs is common, and the two outer wires give values. Green wire is around 2.4ohms and the yellow wire is 1.0 ohms in closed position. You can apply vacuum and the ohm values will be green wire 1.0ohms and on the yellow wire 2.4oms
note: The green wire was the constant between 3rd and 4th gen ERG's parts (in my case), however, no big deal, just match the plug to give the correct signal
Great info, I appreciate you taking the time to test and venture to the 4th gen EGR valve!
Is it Sticky worthy guys? He even provides the pin-out and signal values.
I’d say yes, who knows how useful this could be a few more years down the line. These things are only getting older :(
Anyone else?
agreed
Done.
Nice work Trent. Thank you!
Is there any way to get those bolts off without mangling the old part?
Yes. Standard (short) socket with an extension. The socket sits below the diaphragm and extension is skinny enough to pass by it. Depending on your socket length, you may need to loosen the nuts with the socket and finish removal by hand. You do need to loosen/remove the bolt that is holding the hard vacuum lines blocking the the forward-most bolt and and gently move the tubing out of the way. Or, remove the vacuum hoses and remove the tubing entirely. I had success by just moving the tubing gently out of the way.Quote:
Originally Posted by profquad
I suggest soaking the nuts in Kroil (or PB Blaster) for a while to loosen them up before going at them. Breaking those studs might ruin your day.
Hey there, I am attempting to replace my egr valve and I bought the 4th gen accord egr valve. Trent talks about the center wire as a white one but my egr valve center wire is yellow and the new egr center wire is green. Any thoughts on what I should do?
Id run the test he mentions.
Green wire is around 2.4ohms and the yellow wire is 1.0 ohms in closed position. You can apply vacuum and the ohm values will be green wire 1.0ohms and on the yellow wire 2.4oms
note: The green wire was the constant between 3rd and 4th gen ERG's parts (in my case)
Ignore the colors for now, apply a vacuum and measure the resitance to figure out the wire on both the old and new unit. Then measure in closed position with no vacuum.
I'm not sure how to use my multi meter in that way, I don't really use it much.
Come on man, its a simple tool. It says right in the post how to do it, all you need to do is look up "how to check resistance" or "how to check ohms", and find out all you have to do is turn the multimeter to the right setting. It doesn't do you any good to just say you don't know how to do it.
You need to find out whether the common wire on your new valve is white or the center wire, then do the same for your old one. Your old one is probably the same as Trent's, middle is white and common. Just verify the old one so you know where the wires need to go.
Common is the wire that you can keep your lead on and get the measurements on, so from there to green (or the wire on the right side) with no vacuum should be 2.4, to yellow with no vacuum should be 1.0, green/right with vacuum should be 1.0, yellow should be 2.4.
I would do as follows:
hold a probe on yellow, we will assume this is the same as the stock one
touch the other probe to the other 2 wires and note which one showed 1 ohm
If neither of them showed one ohm move over one wire and try again
If you still dont see 1 ohm then verify your multimeter is in the right setting and that touching the probes together reads somewhere around 0 and not touching is OL
Once you have the other wire that you measured 1 ohm, to verify this is common, hold your probe there and take your probe off yellow (or the wire you moved to if yellow didn't work).
Touch the probe to the remaining wire, it should be 2.4
It would be a good idea to apply vacuum and verify 1.0 and 2.4 switch now, but you should know how to wire it.
As an alternative, you could download the 3g manual from the link in my signature. Then download the 4g manual from the same link and compare wiring diagrams...
:)
Its information that is going to help me personally with my own EGR problem.
Ive also seen a video where a guy just used a screw driver and soft mallet to break that plastic top piece off and clean the sticky pin that opens and closes and put it back on. He cursed a lot in the video but it worked well. Im not saying do that. I might though. Egr Quick Clean out 89-93 from spunky spice on Youtube :inout:
Has anyone tried any other EGR valves from newer Hondas? I just got off the phone looking for an EGR valve and Autozone isn't showing anything for 3G or 4G Accords anymore. There's got to be something newer that'll work.
Don't bother with autoparts stores, they're garbage. Rockauto has it, for both EFI and carbed, made by WVE.
You're right they do have it! But it's $211.79 for the EGR Valve.
