battery voltage, pcv and starting
Got a few questions right fast:
-The medium sized hose coming from my Valve Cover.
-Is it pretty much the same thing as my PCV?
-Can I splice it with a Y connector straight to my intake manifold? (Same nipple as my lower end PCV) or must that hose be hooked up before the TB?
-Anyone else run synthetic oil and have leaks around each spark plug? They're barely hand tight...maybe 10 ft/lbs. Kinda scared to tighten it too tight out of fear of the plug seizing. Buddies motor had a seized plug. A junkyard replacement head cost him $100. That was on a sunfairy. Our heads aren't a dime a dozen.
-where are places you've run your battery other than the stock congested spot above the transmission? Mines currently in the trunk with 18 feet of 2ga. Wire ran up front. Upon cranking/turning over the voltage drops to 8.1(warm) to 8.9(freezing).
-Would someone mind doing the math on my voltage/amperage drop for 18ft of 2gauge wire with a 740cca battery?( my math skills blow.)
-On our stock FI 'PJO' header has the OČ sensor on the 4th cylinder runner about 4 inches below the head. I had to settle for an 89 carbed 'PH4' header with the OČ sensor mounted near almost in the 4-1 collector at the bottom, mostly in cylinder 1's runner. Will this effect my ecu/sensor readings much?
-Would it read/meter anything better if I welded an OČ sensor bung 6 inches or so after the collector?
Re: battery voltage, pcv and starting
Anyone wanna take a stab at any of this?
Herro???
Herro??
Re: battery voltage, pcv and starting
Well, spark plugs need more than hand tight. Put on a socket wrench and give it a final turn until its tight. All mine are tight and snug and never have a problem coming out. Just don't let them sit for 5 Years and rust or something.
That's my 2 cents.
Re: battery voltage, pcv and starting
Quote:
Originally Posted by
firefighterwhite89
Got a few questions right fast:
-The medium sized hose coming from my Valve Cover.
-Is it pretty much the same thing as my PCV?
-Can I splice it with a Y connector straight to my intake manifold? (Same nipple as my lower end PCV) or must that hose be hooked up before the TB?
This is part of the PCV system but it can't be connected to the manifold after the throttle plate. That would give you a huge vacuum leak. You can however put a breather filter on it and vent to open air.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
firefighterwhite89
-Anyone else run synthetic oil and have leaks around each spark plug? They're barely hand tight...maybe 10 ft/lbs. Kinda scared to tighten it too tight out of fear of the plug seizing. Buddies motor had a seized plug. A junkyard replacement head cost him $100. That was on a sunfairy. Our heads aren't a dime a dozen.
Are you sure that oil isn't leaking from the valve cover gasket and collecting around the spark plugs? The only thing you would get leaking from the spark plugs themselves is exhaust gas or *maybe* fuel.
The torque spec for the spark plugs is 13 lb-ft. Make sure to use anti-seize compound on the plug threads so they won't seize up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
firefighterwhite89
-where are places you've run your battery other than the stock congested spot above the transmission? Mines currently in the trunk with 18 feet of 2ga. Wire ran up front. Upon cranking/turning over the voltage drops to 8.1(warm) to 8.9(freezing).
-Would someone mind doing the math on my voltage/amperage drop for 18ft of 2gauge wire with a 740cca battery?( my math skills blow.)
This is actually not a straightforward calculation, there are too many variables. At 2ga. the voltage drop for the wire is trivial compared to the connections themselves. The voltage drop you see at the battery is going to depend on not only the current draw but also the condition of the battery, and what it's rated capacity is.
I guess the first question I would ask is, what seems to be wrong? Is the starter turning over too slowly? If so, I would try a known good battery and see what that does. If you measure that much voltage drop directly at the battery terminals, either the battery is bad, or it's rated capacity is way too low for the applied load (or the load is too much for the battery).
Quote:
Originally Posted by
firefighterwhite89
-On our stock FI 'PJO' header has the OČ sensor on the 4th cylinder runner about 4 inches below the head. I had to settle for an 89 carbed 'PH4' header with the OČ sensor mounted near almost in the 4-1 collector at the bottom, mostly in cylinder 1's runner. Will this effect my ecu/sensor readings much?
-Would it read/meter anything better if I welded an OČ sensor bung 6 inches or so after the collector?
No. Don't worry about it.
C|
Re: battery voltage, pcv and starting
Re: battery voltage, pcv and starting
where did you run the ground from the battery, hopefully you have it going back up front as well...
the hose you are refering to is the vent for the pvc, in a way it keeps the crankcase from building negative pressure where as the pvc end keeps the crankcase from positive pressure all in a matter of words.
Re: battery voltage, pcv and starting
Quote:
Originally Posted by
roodoo2
where did you run the ground from the battery, hopefully you have it going back up front as well...
Good thinking. Believe that is the problem? Ground wire is ran 2gauge approximately 2ft bolted to the chassis right beside the battery and battery box...in the trunk.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
roodoo2
the hose you are refering to is the vent for the pvc, in a way it keeps the crankcase from building negative pressure where as the pvc end keeps the crankcase from positive pressure all in a matter of words.
So it is safe to install a breather filter directly on the valvecover? Many ppl advise doing it and a few have said its not a good idea...
