Printable View
I want to know if I have 1 or 2 amps and the adding of the fuses is a total of 70amps,is going to be problematic to my 65amp alternator.I have a Optima Yellow and that's it.Did anybody made the Big 3 Upgrade to a '86 LX or other year and model, dosen't matters.
Whats the brand and model of your amplifiers?
You at least have an optima battery. So thats good, im not sure about 70amps running from a 65 amp alternator i havent tried it but i got two jenson amps with a total of 40 amp fuses on it, but since their cheap amps they dont use that much current. I also have a carputer and all seems well for the past few years with my 1.0 farad cap and normal battery.
If you already have the amps, you can just try to install it and see if your lights dim when the bass hits. If they dim you either got a not so good ground, and/or you are just using too much power.
Boss Riot 435(20amp fuse) and Lanzar Vibe(2 25amp fuses),don't know the series #,it's just says 1400w(of course I do not believe it).Both 2 channels,the Lanzar working at 2 ohms stereo and the Boss is yet to be install,but is going to work at 8ohms stereo.
if u were to pull 70amps or more with your amps chances are your fuses will blow. With those amps i'd say u will be fine. Amps rarely pull as much current as their fuse rating. I ran an MTX 6500D with a fuse rating of 75amps off the stock alt and at first i had dimming lights but after i put in an optima yellow top it was all good no problems.
I upgraded all my wiring to 4awg, stock alt, and I pull damn near 1800w at max power (500w for front speakers, 1000w for sub, and about 300 or so with the carputer, the moniter and all that junk. Thats telling me 125A at 14.4V. My alt is still going strong, ,though I dont think itll last at this volume. Its rarely at its peak volume anyways. About 60% up is about the max it gets, and its loud as all hell, sounds amazingly clear though. Bad headlight dimmage though.
Just some info I guess
What is the voltage reading of your battery?Will I have more volts if I make de big 3?And a final question,if I have more volts,but my amp is a regulated power supply,does that means that no matter how much volts the amp get,the sound is going to stay the same,in terms of loudnest?Quote:
Originally Posted by FyreDaug
\Quote:
Originally Posted by Cygnus
All your amps and your head unit have a voltage regulator built in so they don't change with a fluctuation of input voltage.... Otherwise your old stock stereo would get a lot softer when you drop to idle with your headlights on...
The amount of amperage your alternator produces will not effect the fuses on your amplifier or the battery feed to them. Those fuses are only protecting the amperage and voltage mainly that is being produced by the amplifier. Amperage + Voltage = Wattage.
No you wont get "more voltage" by upgrading the big 3, but essentially you will "lose less". It just means your car is capable of handling more power. My battery with the car on is 14.6V, off it drops down to about 12.3. Thats without my computer on or any stereo equipment at all. When I turn everything on, running I go down to 14.0 and off is 12.0 ish. Dont know what is was before I upgraded, but as soon as I installed my carputer I did the wires at the same time
Totalling the wattage of your speakers is not a great way to figure out how much power you will draw from your electrical system. Plainly down to the fact that no amplifier is 100% efficient. So your amp may draw 500w to produce 350w (just an example).Quote:
Originally Posted by FyreDaug
As for working out your main fuse rating, adding up all the fuses on your amp(s) is a good idea, however an amp with two 25amp fuses will hardly ever draw 50amps of current. So your 65amp alternator should be fine, if your system ever draws more than that the battery will begin to handle the excess current.
