where can my friend buy a weber carb for his 87 accord? and how much is it? thanks.
matt
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where can my friend buy a weber carb for his 87 accord? and how much is it? thanks.
matt
If you want to get the weber carburettor kit for your accord, you can go on this website
Make sure you get the whole thing with the correct adapter plate.
Weber Carburetor
You can also get different jet kits for the carb Jet Kit
when we get our new FAQ going, that's gonna be in there :)
Hi
Ive got the carb well Ive got a 38dgas (couple of) but cant find the adaptor for the manifold.
I emailed WWW.carbs.net and haven received a reply.
Has anyone got a part number or something & is there a linkage kit etc?
Thanks
Have you managed to find any weber supliers in the uk? Any shop that carries weber parts should be able to get them, and sourceing them localy will save you a bit in shipping and customs. I forget the part number off hand, but I know I posted it on the old old board http://pub63.ezboard.com/b3gs somewhere. Personaly I don't like carbs.net, pierce manifolds is a good place, their catalog sucks but call them up on the phone and they'll have the answers you need (they only take phone orders, no online order system). Topend is also a decent place, thats where I got my adapter and jetting kit from. They put together a jetting kit for the dgv, I don't know about the dgs but you could ask. Your most likely going to need to rejet the carb to use it on your motor.
andy
What will a weber carb do for you? is it worth the investment? With NO other mods to the car, and I add the carb, will it potentially damage anything?
CoAsTeR
I installed the weber carb today, I have it backwards with the idle/mixture screw facing the front of the car. I tried to have them facing the firewall but I couldn't locate a place where to put the throttle return spring bracket. Anyhow when i tried to start the car the first couple of times it would start but then die on me. The after that, I would turn the key and it would just not turnover at all. I noticed after checking my spark plugs that they are wet so now I have caused flooding from trying to start several times. I checked all around the engine bay to see if i missed something. I checked several times to see if I plugged all the vaccum hoses up except for the vaccum advance line farthest from the distributor.
I do think i am missing one thing the brake booster, how can i locate it to see if it connected?
I've been at this all day and will be out tomorrow to look for the source for the problem. Any help would be appreciated.
The brake booster is a big vaccum line connected to the rear of the intake manifold...
In the back of the intake manifold, there is this line that comes out with two ports sticking out of it, is one of them it?
Do you have any idea what could be the cause of it not starting?
Chek and make sure the wet spark plugs are wet with gas or coolant. In my Intake manifold there was a hole where the gasket went between the intake man. and the adapter bracket that had to plugged becasue it was dumping coolant into the intake manifold. This caused my cat to seem to be running very rich soak the plugs. After the hole was plugged, the coolant was kept out and the car ran great.
Yep, my spark plugs where wet gas, i could tell from the way they looked.
I know that hole, there is coolant coming out of it, it is right on the intake manifold, So you plugged it up?
I wasn't sure what to do with it being there i just put the sealant and gasket on and left it, hmmm I wonder if that was the cause?
Got the weber running sort of, with the help of some friends, but out of the exhaust was a whole cloud of white smoke, checked my oil dipstick to find the it was all creamy, from the mixture of oil, gas and fuel i guess. Come to find out my head gasket went.
So i spent all that time installing the thing only to have the head gasket go, what a waste.
Now I looking for a new motor, got some leads and have come across an 89 accord with only 78k miles.
I'm gonna have to do something, cuz I need my car.
um youre getting a new engine because you blew your head gasket? dont make sense...just replace your head gasket...or am i missing something here? :rolleyes:
Damn that blows (no pun intended)
but yeah just plugged it up and life is great. I think it was to heat the base of the old Keihin carb.
I am looking into getting a new engine because at the advice of my mechanic who looked at my car, I have over 200K, even if a new head gasket was put in, there could be other problems that could occur with the age and mileage of the engine. And he would still have to see if the head on the engine was still good condition before just putting a new seal on. Because of this he advised I would be better if I just swap in another motor. He has already given me a price on a low mileage motor which I found to be reasonable compared to spending hundreds on repairing the high mile motor I currently have.Quote:
Originally posted by mike89lxi
um youre getting a new engine because you blew your head gasket? dont make sense...just replace your head gasket...or am i missing something here? :rolleyes:
Oh yeah, if and when I do get the motor, I'm definitely going to put the weber on there. The sound that car made at WOT, truly blew me away.
Got to a junkyard, get a lowmilage 88-89 lx-i motor exhaust manifold and down pipe. Bolt you carbed intake on it and drop it in.
andy
Thanks for the advice and info, I never even thought of trying to get an motor out of an Lx-i.
So get an Lxi motor (w/ low miles of course) and remove the FI intake off and bolt the carb intake and weber carb on. Isn't that what you did? The way you said it makes it sound like a simple switch, but afterspend almost 2 days plugging up all those lines and what not on my Carbed motor to hook up the weber nothing seems very easy. I know the EFI does not have the exact same setup as the carburetor, but am I following the same procedure when I was converting to the weber?
I already have an aftermarket header and some other mods that I could transfer over to a new motor.
I guess you suggested the 88-89 efi motor due to its higher compression vs other motors from the same generation?
The head and block are the same on both the efi and the carbed except for slightly higher compressoin pistons. Putting the motor in will be a direct bolt in. Since you have a header, don't worry about the lx-i's exhaust manifold its better then the carb manifold, but its not a header. You need to swap the thermostat houseing and the distributor over from the carbed engine aswell, they also just bolt on. There are no major mods or fabrications to make it work. Everything will fit in there just like it was with the carbed motor and it will all look the same, except for a difrent valve cover. There are actually only a few vacuume lines you have to plug with the weber. You only need to plug the ones coming from the manifold, everything else doesn't matter. There are a few diferent desigens for the 3g manifold so I won't go into which ones. Just look at the manifold when you have it off, you'll see them. Yeah I do have an 88 lx-i motor thats been converted to carb, and yes I am suggesting it because of the higher compression. Its not that much of a gain, but its not going to cost you more to put a carb converted lx-i motor then it will to put in a carbed motor. So you might as well take a little power increase with it.
andy
As I was putting my carb back on after replacing the gaskets I noticed next to where I plug in my distributor advance there is a second vaccuum port thats capped up. Whats that one for?
Oh and BTW could a PCV valve cause a low RPM stumble? I'm still trying to track down my rare low rpm stumble. I'm narrowed down to small idle jet in the carb or maybe the PCV valve. Pretty sure its the Jet. I think my mixture screw is like 3 to 3.5 turns out from the carb...dammit.
No on the pack of the weber carb it self. My advance hose goes to one brass tube on the back of the weber, then right next to it there is another brass vaccum tube that is capped. Whats that for? Damn I knew I should taken a pic when I had it off of there.
Just came in from motor shopping.
Andy, I was just going to ask you about the distributor install since I know the EFI Accords come with the Toyo Distributor and Carbs can come with either a hitachi or toyo, mines by the way is an hitachi, I didn't know If I could just swap my distributor into the efi motor.
One junk yard had 3 EFI engines all w/o the distributor and I wasn't sure if i could just install mine on there so I didn't buy them. Then I read your post, oh well.
I went to other places but no one had any accord engines or they told me they weren't sure if they had any in their yard.
For convenience and time, I went with somebody who is willing to sell me an carbed 89 engine with only 78,000 miles. Will have it by tomorrow.
I really wanted to go with the 88-89 efi, but o'well, I didn't plan on having my head gasket go after installing the weber
I really appreciate the info though, cuz I definitely want to do what you did with the the EFI motor. I'll keep the swap in mind for a future project on my current accord or if i decide to buy another DX/LX model and use it as a project.
Yep i know what you are talking about it is another brass tube located right next to the brass vacuum advance tube you hook up from your distributor.
A20a1, didn't you tell me that was the fast idle cam screw? or is it the screw behind the choke?
Its not much of a gain going from the carbed to the efi pistons, the extra .3:1 in compression will only net a few hp. Since you already have a good carbed motor coming you might as well stick with it. Spending money on other mods will net you more hp then swaping to a lxi block.
andy
Dunno, mine only has one vacuume port. The rare stumble could be the pcv, but its usually more noticeable when it goes bad. Its mostly likely a small vacuume leak. One thing I noticed on my carb adapter was that it had two of the corners choped off next to the carb studs. I though it was just a fluke in the way mine was made, I didn't think they would actually want it like that. If your's has that then that could be the problem. It was the source of my crappy fluctuateing idle (mine was very bad though). The bas of the dgv carb isnt flat, it has some ridges and channels ect, you've seen it and should know what I am talking about. The cut off corners are cut so a tiny bit of the channel area hangs over the side, so the gasket doesn't quite seal. Test to see if its leaking, spray some carb cleaner around the area and see if the speed goes up. An easy fix for it if it is leaking is to get a spacer. I think they sell them at pierce but their catalog isnt the greatest, email them and ask. Or you can make one, you need a 36mm hole saw, some semi thick metal plate, a saw, and a drill. Just trace the carb base gasket onto the metal and cut it into the shape of the gasket.
andy
Yeah mine has those odd angled corners. I just made some new gaskets out of the cork and rubber 'Engine Seal' paper from advance. Maybe that will help with the seal in that area. I'll check for a leak when I think about it. My idle however is dead on, so I guess if its leaking its not leaking much. I just need to get a damn vac guage!!:)
I'm thinking of doing it... any thoughts on the 38 DGES? It uses the same adapter, correct?
I finally got the weber carb running, it took a while cuz I had to check and recheck lines and other stuff. She does start, now I just need to smooth out the idle and tune the carb a bit and then I'll have my car back. :D
Sweet man. Congrats. Did you end up plugging that spot on the manifold?
Yup, found some type of screw that fit nice and tight in that hole.
get a junkyard 88-89 LXi motor if possible or hell you may be able to pick up a whole 3rd gen that's crashed for like $500 or less. Trust me, shit starts to add up. I bought a reman head because my cumbustion chamber was cracked and I ruined the head gasket twice because a screw fell in the manifold and the motor sucked it in when I started it up.
oh I forgot the brake booster yyou don't have to worry about because it doesn't plug into the carb, it plugs into the manifold so unless you swapped your manifold it should be still connected.
Thanks, Phydeaux recommended the same thing but at the time I looking at 3 EFI motor, wasn't thinking because none of them came with a distributor,then I read a later post that said i could just install mine instead. Oh well...I keep that in mind for a future project.Quote:
Originally posted by POS carb
get a junkyard 88-89 LXi motor if possible or hell you may be able to pick up a whole 3rd gen that's crashed for like $500 or less. Trust me, shit starts to add up. I bought a reman head because my cumbustion chamber was cracked and I ruined the head gasket twice because a screw fell in the manifold and the motor sucked it in when I started it up.
spray where the manifold meets the head, I had a funny stumbly idle and it turned out to be the gasket by the #1 cylinder
I'm not leaking vaccuum at all. Checked with Carb cleaner last week.
Low stoich isn't bad when cruiseing, as long as it doesn't ping. You'll need a bigger pump jet to stop it from bogging when you hit the gas.
andy
Does anyone have a HOW TO install a Weber carb? I'd like to see how tough it is.
Has anyone put NOS with a weber carb? Is it OK to add the webes + 50 shot NOS on a STOCK motor? I don't want to do any damage...
Pics of Accords with weber carbs installed, besides Phydeaux, I don't think anyone else who has a weber has pics of their engine bay, like a before and after pics.
I should get pics up once I get a hold of a camera. Do other members who made this conversion agree?
I want to see what other Accords with the weber in the engine bay look like, kinda curious.
Maybe this isn't the right the forum to post this, but I just had to do it somewhere.
The weber carb is simple to mount since you only need to hook up one vacuum line from the distributor advance diaphragm and leave the brake booster hooked up. Everything else from the stock carb and manifold gets plugged. You still need to hook up the electric choke (if U get the weber one with that). U can use the stock carb to measure the distance from the throttle shaft and the linkage, and use that same measurement on the weber linkage.
Phydeaux had came up with a formula in which U can use the travel of the throttle cable(From the pedal up to the pedal down) that U can use instead to plot where to put the linkage on the weber). If I can find it and with his permission I'll post it.
Now tuning it is another matter, I needed some help on that one with a friend of mine who knew how to tune carbs, cuz they are tempermental:mad:
The performance and sound are incredible, especially coming from an Accord.:D
Those of you that converted, did you change the type of oil you were using?
Someone suggested I go with like 20w 50 instead of 10w30. Any suggestions?
You can run nitrous with a Weber. There is an Australian company (http://www.ozrace.com) that sells a kit for the weber DGV. It's a 50 shot. Shipping the kit to the US costs 91 dollars.. but the kit is pretty cheap.
I still use 10w30 in mine, the weber wont effect what oil you need.
andy
Probably would be a good choice. I can't remeber what I have in mine, I think its a 55 and I lean out a little bit when I floor it at low rps. I just don't floor it at low rps, I have the 5speed though so I can just down shift and bring the revs up first. Give at a shot, just be for warned that the pump jet is like $15 or something like that for what looks like a little aluminum watering can. Its not always worth it to change it unless its really bad.
andy
Did you check them before you put the weber on of have they been like that for a while. Get a new set of denso or ngk coper plugs, don't waste your money on anything else, they're good and cheap. Keep an eye on them for a while and see how things go. A broken ceremic around the electrode can be a sign of leaning out bad. I dunno how the part where the wire got bent, did you bang it with anything while working on the motor, nothing wrong with the motor could cause that.
andy
Yeah it uses the same plate. The performance of the stock carb is pale in comparison. I had a 38 rachet type weber and I can tell you that engine performed pretty well with it. On the down side, the increase in performance causes a lot more gas to be used so brace yourself.
accordsi
Don't hurt the poor weber. The isn't really anything to be gained from doing that. If you want to get crazy like that TWM makes a velocity stack for the dgv. You can go right to the catalog by clicking here. Its pricy though, retails fo $250, unless your in an all out competive race class where 1/10ths of a second count its not worth it. I'd just leave it as is, you already have the choke removed so there isn't much you can do to make it flow better. Putting a rounded lip around the outside will help, but its not going to make any sort of noticable gain.
andy
when i first read the topic ( hacking weber )
i said to my self ! stop hurting the car MIKE ! :( :p
MIKE
This for all the people who have weber's. Im about to get a weber but i dont know if its worth it? Does it sound the same as a flipped lid? If not is it better or worse. Also does it increase performace. Also i need to know where i could order one.
I think it sounds great, nothing sounts like a good carb at full throttle. I haven't a clue what a gen3 with a fliped lid sounds like though. The weber has a nice throaty growl to it, and its a good performance gain.
andy
mike did you ever take pics of the adapter you made?
how much does the weber approx cost ?
thnx
MIKE
Any dyno available on the Weber? I'm still holding out for B20A swap but am still curious about carb options...
Get the weber, it is definitely worth it. It gives the car some great pull especially if you have other mods on the car.
The cost can range from 350 to 399 depending on where you go to. Mine cost in the 399 range cuz I bought mine from a local speed shop.
Where can I find a how to? I also need to know the EXACT model/spec of the complete kit (carb/mounting kit) so I can get one ordered from the local performance shop. I'd rather buy it from somewhere local so if I have problems I can kick some ass :) I'm up in Ontario....
I have an 88' accord LX, stock. Slappin' a weber carb on.
Thanks for the time guys, I'm sure this has been asked before, but I didn't see it while I was searching the old posts...
What is 32/36 DGEV that stand for? I've seen it mentioned that I should look for a 38/38? What are the numbers I'm lookin' for? I want to get as much performance out of this as I can without killin' my motor.
BTW, is there cold weather driveability concerns with a weber? Up here in canada can get flippin' cold!
I don't think there is a how to, its not that hard though. Take of the old carb, vacuume crap, solenoids, ect. Bolt the adapter plate on, bolt the carb on, and hook up all the linkages. Then hook the vacumme line for the advance up, plug off all the other vacuume lines, and your set. Thats what I remember off hand anyway.
I don't really know what the entire name stands for, weber is an italian company and they couild stand for something in italian for all I know. 32/36 is the size of the bores in mm. The primary is 32mm and the secondary is 36mm. There are other versions of the DGV with diferent size bores. The E means it has an electric choke, there is also an A which has a coolant operated choke. If its just DGV then it has a manual choke.
The 38/38 DGS has larger 38mm bores and is synchronous opening, opposed to the DGV which the secondary bore doesn't start to open untill 2/3 throttle. The DGS also has the E and A vesions. The DGV is a good choice for a street car. Its has a pleasant manner, is good on gas and is easy to tune, but when you stop on it and open up that secondary bore it comes to life. I have personaly never used a DGS so I can't really say how well it would react. Its not going to have that big boost when its floored like the DGV, intead it has a smooth power curve through out the throttle travel. An advantage you get with the DGV is you can run it on the lean side in the primary bore to get good gas milage and then run the seconday rich for full on power when you floor it. The DGS has a larger flow and is going to be more happy on a higher reving engine thats been modified with some cams. Either carb can be used on the stock engine. The DGV is great, you'll definitely fell the gain. Wether the DGS is more of a gain on a stock motor then a DGV I can't answer. Your best bet is to probably just buy the conversion kit, esp if this is your first time. It comes pretuned for your motor (not perfectly, but its close enough to get it running good) with all the necessary hardware you'll need to make the carb fit and instruction (not the best, but if you have a clue on what your doing they'll get you through). As for performance in cold weather, it doesn't often get below the 20's here. When the carb was on my stock 83 it had no troubles in the winter, on my 85 it wasn't that happy untill the car har warmed up. That could also be atributed to the fact that I have eliminated the manifold heater and the cam doesn't help it idle any better.
andy
thnx man ! :D
MIKE
Aren't you going to damage the top of the carb with it hitting the hood?
can you use a cold air intake with a carb? i know people make custom intakes to suck in more air, but will the cold air not freeze the carb? there hard enough to start as is.
WHAT? i dunno whats wrong with your carb dude but mine starts right up like it were Fi....CLEAN THAT CARB... GET NEW AIR FILTER An SHIT!
so you can make a CAI? my carb does start fine, except in the cold, hence the misunderstanding about cold air going directly into it.
A20A1 is in hawaii.... I'm not sure carb-freezing is going to be a problem for him unless he lives at really high altitudes....
What the hell is your scoop for? Use it!!! :p
I am considering fitting a weber or some other Carby to the EL engine in my 1983 Honda accord to improve performance, Is this difficult to do and how much more power can be derived from this mod. What else can I do keeping the original engine to get more power?
Thats about the only thing you can do to the motor. I had one on my 83 with an EK and it was a welcome improvement. I never dynoed nor ran the car at the track so I have no idea what kinda power it was making, but I did manage to out run a 1st gen maxima with it.
andy
a 34/36 progressive should work nice on the 1.8 (?) motor
No it is the 1.6 EL engine.
even better :)
Question for the prople who have a weber carb.. Do u have to disable the EGR valve to install it? I know there is a hose in there that connects to the stock carb. Also, how would u install a weber in a auto tranny situation?
Thank you.
:stick:
The auto tranny needs and extra cable to go from the carb to the trans so it can rigister the Throttle Value or "TV" for short.
Basically the more you press the gas the higher the TV and the higer the TV the higer the shift point is... shift point is also refered to Kick Down... basically its the point/rpm where the trans will shift to the next the gear.
the egr is disable upon installing the weber, but you may be able to hook it up again.
any diff. in performance?
i guess it would be stupid to do this to the stock carb.
Yeah, come to think of it, the flow in that plate could be better. Guess I'll have to ask around and see if I can get some one to port mine a little bigger.
hey A20A1 have you thought about swaping 5 speed?
it would give you a little better acceleration that auto.
got any pics :confused:
Does anyone have a dyno chart on a stock and webber car.. id really like to see the diff. in hps and i want to know the gain..i wanna know the diff between stock and one with a webber cause i dont want to blow my gasket or whatever the word is... MY ENGINE THERE HAPPY....
Hmmm, I would like to see the difference as well some one help us
What does a webber go for?
I'm looking for a place to dyno my car, but haven't had any luck yet.
you can probably get the kit (air cleaner, manifold adapter, carb, etc) for $300-350
my weber is on the way via ups, and i just had a few questions for those who run one. ARe there any idling problems? Will the engine still be a s reliable or is it more prone to breaking down, basically i just want to know of the reliablity end of the carb. thanx
my car is about to hit the road soon and i am upgrading the exhaust system to an all pacesetter system. my thermostat housing go messed up and the only way i can see to get it off is to take the head off. i want to change the headgasket cuz the car did over heat a few times. anyways once i take the complete exhaust system off the head is comming off, is it esier to take the car off with the head? if i am pulling the carb off i minds well replace it/upgrade. the carb war ran alont time with no filter and it has a lot os dust in it from sitting in the shop for 9 months. pluse when i try to run the car it dosent want to idle so i just decided to upgrade the carb. any1 have any suggestions on what carb to get? i wanted a side draft but i really dont want to spen so much money. i was thinknig about checking ebay but i know nothing about carbs, what type should i be looking for?
will these work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1851559561
this guy has a lot of carbs, any good, on that first link if there any good lets do a group buy, heres the second link http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-c...serid=alfa1750
The DHLAs are Dellorto's answer to Weber DCOEs (like PhydeauX put on his car, search for his postings). The DHLAs supposedly perform as well as the DCOEs, but are more difficult to find parts for. The DHLAs accomplish the same purpose as the DCOEs, but with a more modern (they have more plastic parts) approach. DCOEs have a more prominent name in racing. Both brand carbs are sturdy, and used models will serve you well. You'll want to rebuild them for sure, so even though the DHLAs are cheaper, consider that you'll have more difficulty getting replacement parts for them. DCOEs are easy to get replacement parts for, but are also about double the price, used. Phydeax had to have an intake manifold custom made in order to fit them onto his car (I'm doing this now, too). DCOEs and DHLAs fit the same manifolds, but that's the only thing that interchanges between the two. If you do this conversion, you will have great power gains. Plan on putting some time and $ into it, though - especially time to tune the carbs correctly. I think the whole conversion ran Phydeaux $600 or so. Look for sidedraft carbs (you'll need 2) that have 34mm chokes (main venturis) in them. You can buy the chokes and many of the other jettings later, but having them the size you need to start out will save some $. Man, I didn't know the DHLAs were so cheap! Go for it if you have the time!
so does webber make a manifold that fits our car that i can put a dual dhla side draft caRB ON?
No. No one does. Check out Phydeaux's posts on how he made his manifold. It's a custom job.
Go here for links to his postings on it.
unless you go here http://www.carbs.net/Weber/weber.htm they sell the kit that should just bolt on to stock intake.
The kit that www.carbs.net sells only works for the DG series Weber carbs, not the sidedraft carbs, which is what hondavtec was asking about. If he wants to go with a DG series carb, it would be a lot easier and more cost effective. But not more performance effective.
My weber idles very nicely. I make sure my air filter is clean and the carb is tuned. I got a used weber; I had to change the jets and I went through at least 5 different linkage setups before I was halfway satisfied with the feeling of my accel pedal. The only thing that bugs me is the right hand turn stumble and miss... but oh well, I've learned to adjust some of my driving habits.
if not there should be, let me know thanx
i don't think there is How to install weber. Ask mike, A20A1 she has weber and he knows it from top to the bottom.
no how to 's on the weber yet ! there just " where to buy weber " in the faqs ! :D
hope some one can do it ! :D
MIKE
Can this Weber be made to work on a DX? I've found one cheap and thought it might be an improvement over the 32/36.
Cheers,
Roland
DX is a carb, so yeah u can.
With money anything is possible. My question should really have stated, "Can this be done as easily as a 32/36?". There are kits w/ adapter plates for the 32/36. Could one of these be modified to work with the 38 or is a custom plate required (and how much might that cost)?Quote:
Originally posted by smufguy
DX is a carb, so yeah u can.
Thanks for the help.
Cheers,
Roland
yes you can use the same plate adapter to mount 38, but you may want to make the primary a little bigger on the plate and intake.
ask A20A1 he has weber with regrind adapter plate and manifold.
how about another idea, get a A20A4 stock motor with ur webber. heheh 9.3 compression baby.
he won't gain much, 88 carb has 9.1:1
ok i am installing the weber carb kit on my 89 dx and i have a major throttle linkage problem, The problem is that there is not enough distance that the cable pulls to make the carb go into full throttle position. do you get me? the pedal is on the floor and it doesnt open the carb to full throttle b/c not enough cable is travelling. Any help would be appreciated. Also what happens to all the vacuum lines that are not mentioned in the instructions are they just tossed? info on that would be appreciated but the real problem is the throttle. thanx again
yea if you could post a pic of that and an indepth explaination of what you did it would be greatly appreciated thanx
You need a shorter linkage then. Can you set the throttle cable lower down on the bracket?
its at the lowest it will go
well i am thinking about getting a weber carb but i dont know anything about them will i really gain a grea deal in hp and how long will the install take? are there different sizes of the carb? somebody please help me lol lots of questions i am usually online but just email me at [email protected]