Re: Idle Adjustment & Emissions Help
You don't give a lot of extra information. The missing hose could cause a vacuum leak, which would definitely make it idle like poo. Start by blocking it off to see if that improves it.
You mention high CO which sounds like you have recently had a state-mandated emissions inspection and failed. If that is the case, what state? If you have high CO while testing on a dyno at 15 or 25 mph, then don't bother with the idle mixture. It only controls the mixture at idle. As soon as you get going, it stops doing anything. High CO can be caused by a number of things, including a dirty carb. I would start with a tank of premium gas and a bottle of injector cleaner like Techron or the like. You can also buy carb cleaner in a spray can. Other potential causes include: dirty air filter, sticky choke, malfunctioning PCV, bad charcoal canister or a misadjusted carb (probably needing a complete rebuild). Good luck and keep us posted.
Re: Idle Adjustment & Emissions Help
why am I credited with this writeup? This was all Mike's work..........
Re: Idle Adjustment & Emissions Help
My Car Idles At 2,000 - 3,000 Rpm And Wont Go Down.. Some times it idles Ok But It Has A Mind Of Its own... Is It The Carb Or Distributor Or ??? Any Advise...
Re: Idle Adjustment & Emissions Help
When does it occur the most? When warming up or after the car is fully warm?
Re: Idle Adjustment & Emissions Help, includes PCV and Black Box info
mine has the same idle problem (2,000-3,000 rpms) sometimes right when i start it up and even if i have driven it all day. It just varies. Sometimes it wont act up at all.
Re: Idle Adjustment & Emissions Help, includes PCV and Black Box info
Check your accelerator pedal linkage and the condition of the cable. Make sure the cable moves easily and is not binding.
Re: Idle Adjustment & Emissions Help, includes PCV and Black Box info
Ok idle issue here too.. stays around 2k even when warmed up. SPent hours last night pulling diagrams and reading. Reading this post something dawned on me and i would like to ask a question. I replaced the valve cover gasket but JUST remembered i didnt put the ground wire on the most right (looking towards the drivers seat from the outside) valve cover grommet. Could not putting this ground wire on cause my high idle?
Re: Idle Adjustment & Emissions Help, includes PCV and Black Box info
anyone have pics or specifics where to find thermovalve A and B? I think i can replace both cheaper than a diagnostic from a pro mechanic for my high 2000 rpm idle at all times. Choke is fine - stays open..... when hot... im not getting vacuum in #19 but i am slight in #18 on the unloader. According to the manual it says to check thermovalve B but everyone keeps saying A is bad... ,What gives?
Re: Idle Adjustment & Emissions Help, includes PCV and Black Box info
I wrote about the high idle unloader circuit here:
https://www.3geez.com/forum/carb-tech...ml#post1148126
...BUT download the manual for your exact model! as I think some may be different here (ie thermovalve A vs B)
Both A and B are back under the carb. There is a location diagram also in the manual. (Mine is CA 88 DX manual trans & uses thermovalve A) 18 & 19 are always for the high idle unloader; 18 drops 2000rpm, 19 drops 1500rpm high idle.
If you are getting weak vac on line 18, you could still have a leak in the choke. Just not bad enough (yet) to keep the choke from fully opening. (That's how mine failed) Really best to have a vac gauge/pump in your toolbox. It will save you buying and replacing parts you don't need. Just unplug 18 from the carb and pump the line down to see if your idle drops. If so, the problem is likely choke opener vac leak.
Re: Idle Adjustment & Emissions Help, includes PCV and Black Box info
Ok guys my 86 accord idles perfect when it's cold but as soon as it gets warm and the choke plate fully opens it sputters and dies also pulled the plugs and all were pretty black and cylinder 4 was white any tips?
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