Oh, and I did confirm that the crank keyway does in fact face 12 0'clock in line with TDC.
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Oh, and I did confirm that the crank keyway does in fact face 12 0'clock in line with TDC.
You need to mount the trigger wheel so that the missing tooth is lined up with the sensor when the engine is at top dead center. You do not line it up with TDC on the pulley unless your sensor is directly above the pulley.
This guide here is the one to read. It's your bible, trust no other sources:
https://wiki.autosportlabs.com/MJLJ_...allation_guide
Basically, set your engine to TDC #1, stick the trigger wheel on it and turn it until the missing tooth is lined up with your sensor.
OK. The diagram they have just makes my brain hurt lol.
They say to set it back 9 teeth, that's the part that throws me off.
Modified pulley is on without the trigger wheel. Just running it for a few days to see if it throws off engine balance or eats the PS belt. So far so good.
Off work Monday so I'll get some time to get the wheel lined up and start work on a bracket to mount the sensor.
Oh damnit, I see what you're saying on the manual page. I'm trying to figure out why the trigger wheel is moving back and forth with the sensor lol.
So yeah, I guess it's what I said, plus turn the wheel 9 teeth lol. I forgot about that part.
Progress was made (finally)!
https://i.imgur.com/IHEyJgFl.jpg
Got the barb fittings put into the runners. Only did 3 or them since 4th was already tapped for brake booster, I'll just run a T off that for that runner. The idea is to run those lines into a manifold to smooth out a signal for the MAP sensor in the MJ unit.
https://i.imgur.com/g29PlKIl.jpg
Was actually impressed the ports are clean. Even the intake was clean. For sure thought it would be dirty considering how rich it runs. That port on the right is #4 which was plug fouling but even then it's clean on the intake side which I think tells me it's not the carb overloading.
https://i.imgur.com/3qV8g2Uh.jpg
All put back together. Dont mind the red tubing, got to rice it up a bit ya know :rofl:
Runs 1000 times better, idle is a bit smoother as well. So my issues are for sure timing related. Ran the distributor advance into the vacuum manifold for the time being until I can get everything else sorted out. Still have to daily the car =P
Also put the 36mm venturi back in the carbs. Needs some find tuning but seems to have helped it out as well, less popping. Still does some but not nearly as much. Will also pull well past 5.5k rpm. Was dropping off at 5.5k pretty hard before but she'll go further now. Actually have to be careful since I dont have a rev limiter at the moment.
On hold until I figure out the transmission issue :(
Damn, what’s going on with it?
Not sure until I pull it. Something finally broke though when I got to work. Wont disengage at all even with engine off.
Keep us posted and good luck.
Clutch fixed (so far), broken engine mount replaced, now maybe I can get back to work on this...
Coil, module, and MJ unit are all wired up. Got a day off Monday with no plans and no rain chance. I'm getting a bracket built that day if it kills me.
1st draft bracket:
https://i.imgur.com/EjvEa65l.jpg
Yes, my welds are terrible, never said I was that great of a welder. In my defense I had the amp setting wrong and didn't realize it until halfway through building it. I'll grind the bad ones off and redo them for better penetration.
Can't see it to well but I do have the holes marked off for drilling. Sensor is just sitting there as a reference of how it will go.
Bracket was almost just right. Was 2mm too short for the distance needed that the sensor sits against the trigger wheel.
Mounting bolts were spot on though and the sensor lines up perfectly in line with the wheel, just need to extend where the sensor mounts on the bracket to get it closer to the wheel.
Used 3/16 steel so it seems like it'll be pretty rigid. I've taken a hammer to it and beat the crap out of it to make sure the welds are solid and nothing broke or bent.
Bracket fits perfectly just under the PS belt.
Now to line up the wheel, pull pulley off and weld wheel to it.
frakin rain, never going to get this done..
Where are you at?
East Tennessee
Actually got a few hours of clear skies today.
Got pulley pulled and ring welded to it. Just need to clean it up now.
https://i.imgur.com/3mqqXxWl.jpg
Mostly done, just needs a little cleanup and good to go.
Belt fits perfectly.
Welds are meh but it's not a load bearing structure so it'll do just fine.
Also fixed bracket and got it lined up good.
Cool!
Got everything wired up.
EDIS alone would fire but not run steadily. It's trying to run but just sputters.
First I had the firing order wrong, fixed that. Had the VR sensor wires backwards, fixed that. Did get some fire after those fixes but after a few seconds it sputters out and spits out the carbs then dies.
Double and triple checked all my wiring and everything is where it should be. Sensor is the thickness of my drivers license from the wheel. If I get any closer with it, it'll start hitting it.
Any ideas?
spitting from carb makes me think timing issues - there shouldn't be pressure coming up from the cylinder into intake manifold, if it is it's probably combusting too late, close to the intake stroke, letting flame/pressure into manifold. maybe the timing on cam is out 180 degrees? you might be spot on timing with the crank, but the cam turns 2x as slow as the crank so it could be 180 degrees out, resulting in firing between intake/exhaust stroke at tdc instead of during between compression and power stroke at tdc
I did that once and had fire shooting out the carb - easy way to check is just switch the wires around - instead of 1342 do 4231
No dice, swapped plug wires all over the place, nada
I did notice something though...
Does disconnecting the stock ignition coil and its associated wires affect the fuel pump in any way?
I ran out of time and hooked the stock components back up and when I went to start it... didn't want to run for a bit. Had to pump the gas for a good 30 seconds (not all at once obviously but in total). Basically it was acting like it was out of gas.
I wonder if those sputters from earlier were what gas was in the carb bowls and it had ran them out. When I was trying to get it to fire on the EDIS, towards the end it wasn't firing at all like it was out of gas.
That's it then. I disconnected the coil completely.
So how do I bypass that lol?