88 Accord LXI cranks but no start

I have an 88 Honda accord LXI that I have had problems with for quite a while now an thought it was the distributor. When I would be driving the tach would jump up and bounce around from 2k-5k an the engine would bog. It only did it every once in awhile though. Also every once in awhile I would shut it off and try to start it and it would not start. I had to let it sit for awhile and than start it and it would run perfect. I replaced the distributor and now it is doing the same thing. I know for sure that its getting spark but don't know about the fuel. I have tried starting it by spraying starting fluid into the intake and it still will not even try to run. Sensor maybe? I don't think these cars have a Crank position sensor or a cam position sensor. could it be a tdc sensor?

Main relay common problem in these cars....NEXT!

a main relay won't make the idle bounce.

i'd say you have a combination of a dirty iacv and possibly the tw sensor failing.

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Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6

Main relay common problem in these cars....NEXT!

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Mark, chill. Don't jump the gun; you'll just make yourself look stupid.

Did you replace the igniter when you replaced the distributor? That is usually what causes the tach to go crazy. It's also possible that you have a bad wire making the whole system lose power intermittently. My money is on the igniter if you didn't replace it with a new one. Also, when was your last tune up?

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Originally Posted by Charlie

Mark, chill. Don't jump the gun; you'll just make yourself look stupid.

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guess your right. alright ill help the fella haha


Well two reasons it would be doing it.
1.O2 sensors will do that like stat1k said
2.Your tach might be acting up meaning the metal thing that spins(dont know what its called) will make it jump like mine does. will need to be replaced.

i made no mention of an o2 sensor...

i said his iacv needs cleaned / fitv adjusted and cleaned, and for the hot start problem his tw sensor failing. the metal thing that spins as in a rotor? that could be possible but if he's changed the distributor i would guess that part is new.

"Main relay common problem in these cars....NEXT!"

Ah. Thanks man ill change that.




"a main relay won't make the idle bounce.
i'd say you have a combination of a dirty iacv and possibly the tw sensor failing."

Im guessing I probably have a combination of all of these problems. Awhile back My idle air control valve was dirty and it had a bouncy idle. I went out to the wrecking yard and grabbed one off a car with 175k cleaned it out really good with maf sensor cleaner and slapped it on mine and it was fixed or seemed to be because no more bouncy idle.

So TW Sensor or ECT (engine coolant temperature)? 3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60400
Autozone sells the TW sensor: part number SU4006. or buy it from Honda for $41



"Did you replace the igniter when you replaced the distributor? That is usually what causes the tach to go crazy. It's also possible that you have a bad wire making the whole system lose power intermittently. My money is on the igniter if you didn't replace it with a new one. Also, when was your last tune up?"

You mean one of these? autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Ignition-Control-Module/_/N-9ci7x?itemIdentifier=78817&_requestid=7972707

I replaced the whole distributor with an autozone distributor. Im pretty sure it had a new one on it when I got it. Last tuneup was recently. has a new cap, rotor, wires, and plugs. Yeah I was thinking a bad wire myself too. I've tried moving around all the wires and plugs and made sure everything was connected and still doesn't start.





"guess your right. alright ill help the fella haha

Well two reasons it would be doing it.
1.O2 sensors will do that like stat1k said
2.Your tach might be acting up meaning the metal thing that spins(dont know what its called) will make it jump like mine does. will need to be replaced."

Yeah It could use a couple new o2's but the O2's I don't think should cause it not to start? just run really rich? I don't think it is the tach because it didn't always do it and when it did bounce the car would surge and run like crap.






So
1.Main Relay.
2.TW Sensor/ECT (engine coolant temperature).
3.Ignition Control Module. I have a new one already on it. came with the distributor
4.IACV.
5.O2 Sensors.

Thanks guys. I listed everything here as a reference for future searches. Ill post back and let ya guys know what happens.

Sorry. Won't let me quote until I have 5 posts. Just ad a w w w. to the front of the address

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Originally Posted by Resortx813

Won't let me quote until I have 5 posts.

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When did the moderators do that? Seems pointless.

When you say "I replaced the distributor and now it is doing the same thing," what does "the same thing" mean?

not ECT, definitely TW sensor.

and i wouldn't worry about the o2's they won't cause a no start or a bouncy tach.

Ok so I went out there tonight and paper clipped my TW sensor. Still would not start. So I grabbed a can of starter fluid and hosed my intake down and tried to start it and it fired right up. Check engine light came on and blinked 6 times for TW sensor. My TW sensor plug had the paper clip in it. Would that still bypass it? Also if it started than could it still be the main relay. I drove it down the road after I got it started and it ran perfect. No bouncy tach or anything. I think the bouncy tach was the distributor or the ignitor so that is fixed. I shut it off for a few seconds and started it back up and shut it off again and it would not start back up. I even tried spraying a little starter fluid and it seemed like it kind of wanted to start but still wouldn't. I tried it with the TW sensor plugged in and jumpered with the clip. I don't want to go buying unnecessary parts because I have 3 different cars I am trying to put back together atm.

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Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz

When you say "I replaced the distributor and now it is doing the same thing," what does "the same thing" mean?

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It starts every once in a while when it feels like it is what is going on.

Test the temp sensor thermistor with an Ohm meter. Evidently the input works as the paperclip threw a code.....

New TW Sensor and no dice.

I don't understand the parts swapping.

For less than that TW you can get a multimeter that will test every electrical component in your car. If you want to diagnose these problems, an essential tool to save time and $ buying parts you don't need....

http://www.multimeterwarehouse.com/d...multimeter.htm

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Originally Posted by stat1K

i made no mention of an o2 sensor...

i said his iacv needs cleaned / fitv adjusted and cleaned, and for the hot start problem his tw sensor failing. the metal thing that spins as in a rotor? that could be possible but if he's changed the distributor i would guess that part is new.

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My bad. didn't pay close attention to that.:omg:

Not sure it's the main relay, but the next time it won't start, open the change drawer and take it out. Up and to the left, almost like it's bolted to the side of the car, is the infamous main relay. I think but don't exactly remember that it's white. reach in with the handle of a screwdriver or something and give it a whap. Sometimes that will encourage the little micro-cracks in the solder to cuddle together long enough to get the fuel pump working.

Since you did get the car running with starter fluid, I doubt it's the distributor, but just because a dizzy is "new," doesn't mean they have replaced, or even tested, Honda's workaround for a CPS, which sits inside the thing. I bought a rebuilt, and the car was still stone dead. Pitched the new dizzy, went to the JY, and it fired right up. That was 60k ago.

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Originally Posted by w261w261

Not sure it's the main relay, but the next time it won't start, open the change drawer and take it out. Up and to the left, almost like it's bolted to the side of the car, is the infamous main relay. I think but don't exactly remember that it's white. reach in with the handle of a screwdriver or something and give it a whap. Sometimes that will encourage the little micro-cracks in the solder to cuddle together long enough to get the fuel pump working.

Since you did get the car running with starter fluid, I doubt it's the distributor, but just because a dizzy is "new," doesn't mean they have replaced, or even tested, Honda's workaround for a CPS, which sits inside the thing. I bought a rebuilt, and the car was still stone dead. Pitched the new dizzy, went to the JY, and it fired right up. That was 60k ago.

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I will have to try whacking the main relay with something haha.
Ill try that tonight. Think it could be the Fuel pump being a pain? or Fuel pump relay?

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Originally Posted by g.frost

I don't understand the parts swapping.

For less than that TW you can get a multimeter that will test every electrical component in your car. If you want to diagnose these problems, an essential tool to save time and $ buying parts you don't need....

http://www.multimeterwarehouse.com/d...multimeter.htm

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Alright will try that.

Also sometimes I try to start it with starter fluid it still doesn't start. It tries to, but doesn't catch it seems, making me think its not the fuel pump. Gotta be a sensor of some sort. DO these cars have Cam position sensors, Crank position sensors or anything of that sort besides the one in the distributor?

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Originally Posted by Resortx813

Also sometimes I try to start it with starter fluid it still doesn't start. It tries to, but doesn't catch it seems, making me think its not the fuel pump. Gotta be a sensor of some sort. DO these cars have Cam position sensors, Crank position sensors or anything of that sort besides the one in the distributor?

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The crank angle sensor is in the distributor & is the only one for this purpose. Uplug the the connector on the distributor. Measure the resistance between the orange/blue and white/blue terminals of the sensor. Resistance should be 650-850 Ohms.
Measure the resistance between both terminals of the sensor & crank agle sensor housing, Resistance should be 100K ohms or more.

You have to be careful with reman distributors. I'm not really crazy about anything electrical from Autozone.

I got 88 honda accord lxi 5sp with the a20a3 fuel injected ran but took battery out to go get a truck then couple of days I put battery back in and now it will turn but won't run

Need to check for spark and then fuel...timed correctly it should run.

Could the battery voltage be low? Some cars crank but wont fire off on low voltage.

What about the starter solenoid ? I have this problem too. ITs maddening. New dizzy, new injectors, new ECU, and the car will crank and run easy when its cold. It will even start up if you crank it hot , but if you let it sit , after running, for about 5 mins or so without running and try to crank it. You get NOTHING. Car turns over fine, you can smell the fuel like crazy. Ive already replaced the main relay and most fuses. What about the relays under the hood for ignition? If I get these hot start issues , I just push the car , and pop the clutch and it runs and starts fine. Its GOT to be a relay or a starter solenoid right? Already replaced the ECT sensor but my cooling gauge did start floating recently. ECT is new but the signal still floats the needle. Its rare too. New fuel pump. New alternator but its important to know I can jump this car off with the clutch everytime it happens. Still, this hot start issue is a PAIN. Are we sure its not the solenoid? I need help too, im tired of chasing this rabbit. Ive found some bad grounds for the ECU under the seat of the car, bad grounds and connections for the starter and I cleaned them all. Tested them all. Not the issue. I want to remind you all that my issue is strictly hot start only. I have no idle issues, no revving issues, no power issues, no cold start issues, hunting issues, or anything else. Its just hot start.

Guess what I found? THE TW PLUG was bad. Not the sensor. THE PLUG ITSELF. The wires going into the plug had gotten corroded then broke off. But broke in a way you could not see. If not for the green corrosion , I would not have noticed. Does your engine smell like its being flooded during your hot start no start? Thats because it is. The RX7 13B was bad about this so I used to pull the fuel pump relay under the hood and cycle the engine 5 times to clear the fuel, replug the relay in and it starts right up. If only I knew which relay under the hood was the fuel pump relay. I could always just pull the plug from the fuel pump in the trunk to clear it. I will update this if I replace the plug and it solves my issues. I also think the combination of old spark plugs plus a rich hot start mixture can hurt you. Especially if you have your timing slightly advanced for low RPM power.


Hey guess what? That faulty plug wasnt even the ECT it was the fan plug. Strange. I thought the green plug was the fan and the beige was the ECT. So am I back to square one again? Starter solenoid? I know! How about I burn the car to the ground instead?

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthre...-Clarification

this might help a little.

I think you asking a question Im not sure.