I'm doing a1986 Honda Accord LXI 3 door 2.0 5 speed custom turbo build any questions or any information you can provide me with please do thanks
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I'm doing a1986 Honda Accord LXI 3 door 2.0 5 speed custom turbo build any questions or any information you can provide me with please do thanks
Parts purchase to make this build happen
Looks great so far. Looks like you got your hands on the custom Mosselman.
Going forward, you can simply reply to this thread instead of making new threads for each post. I've also moved this to our Forced Induction forum.
Okay thank you I'm new to this I have plenty of pictures to post if you have any questions or comments please let me know you can also see my videos on YouTube under 86 Honda Accord turbo build under B.P. Salvage thanks for looking looking
I have had this car for over 10 years.when i first got it the interior and the paint was clean but the motor was a piece of shit .around 300000 miles on a road trip oil light started flashing and I was blowing smoke like a mosquito sprayer made it to my destination and back learn that I couldn't go over 50 or it would blow all my motor oil out the exhaust and smokes come to find out three out of four Pistons were broken in between the Rings so all new Pistons gaskets engine completely rebuilt getting close to four hundred thousand miles it has been a good car and now it's time to show it some love that's why I'm doing this turbo build, I was going to go with this stainless header with a custom a20a flange made but I decided it was easier to purchase the Mosselman turbo header decided there's enough custom handmade work that had to be done
Welcome to the forum. Looks like you're well on your way with your build. There is lots of info on turbo builds on the forum so be sure to search and read some of the other build threads.
I am sure there are many members who can help any turbo questions you might have
Thank you for all the info hash man. Here's what we got for today. CV axle driver side replaced got to keep up with the general maintenance. I don't have that much time I work during the week and my only free time is at night and weekends. here's a couple more pictures of stainless brake lines .engine oil cooler kit. 500 CC turbo fuel injectors and resistor delete plug from osidetiger. motor mounts. upgrade the lighting to the H4 bulbs waiting on parts will keep you updated thanks
Has anyone ever did a turbo build and kept the stock intake manifold?
Performance brake rotors receive today stainless flex pipe to finish my Turbo downpipe
All Performance brake parts have came in. preparing for installation. Front brake rotors from ATL Autosports .braided stainless steel brake lines rear wheel cylinders
For now engine ARP head studs bisimoto valve springs new head gasket looking into the forged rods but kind of out of my price range right now looking to start at 10 pounds and go from there on the intake you have that tube that runs from the header into the intake. Should I just put a plate to block it and what do you recommend for the EGR valve and tell me a little bit about the 3 bar map sensors I'm building this to work with the car not to tear it up so whatever you think's best
I plan on going with the AEM piggybackr fuel ignition controller and level 2 plus spec clutch kit
Second set of gauges wire shrink wrap prepped ready for installation
Can anyone tell me about Standalone ECU ?
Can anyone tell me about the Boost Master timing controller will I need anything else to run this system? Or any accessories. Or am I wasting my time with this?
to answer a few questions, 3 bar map sensors are smart to get when boosting a car. but only if your ecu is tunable(aka chipped or standalone) factory Honda map sensors read like 1.3bar(iirc) and running it in positive pressure above 12psi is just a waiting game of when it will fail.
clutch, i dont understand the spec stage 2+ it supposedly hold more than their stage 3... but i do know at 230whp the regular 2 slips. stage 2+ in theory should hold till 240-250.
a full standalone ecu would be awesome but as i told you in pm, id go obd1 and get a full unlocked version of neptune rtp(my choice) or hondata. not cheap but everything uses honda parts so if it brakes you just ride to the closest parts store to fix it. no special sensors. no btm will be needed with obd1 because you van adjust all of that stuff in the tune.
I would like to thank you for being my friend " Waterboy" thank you for all the information i appreciate your help and support a couple more questions what would you recommend as a good clutch kit I want something that's not going to be too herky-jerky and I read several horror stories on the internet about the 6 Puck clutch exploding is that true? And you have any information on throttle body upgrades or should I run stock?
There's not much more to add that @Tdurr didn't already say. I'm doing a similar build to his and will be running most of the same stuff.
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Can I get some of these parts at the junkyard like the distributor and other things I'll need off a newer Honda?
Yes you can I would say a good 30-40 percent of my parts are from the junkyard. But anything that you get from the junkyard should be cleaned. Over rebuilt to make sure that it they will work properly your savings is normally about 60 to 70% even after rebuild. Only things that will cause you problems are down pipes for turbos intercooler piping and injector Fitness but there are ways to work around those
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What's the best year make and model I should get parts from?
How far should stock oxygen sensor be away from Turbo and how far should wideband air fuel ratio sensor be away ?
I don't have a lot of experience with turbo builds myself, but I would do like Tdurr suggested and convert to OBD1 and run something like Hondata. Way more control then a piggy back ECU and not nearly as expensive as a full proper standalone.
From what I have seen, the wideband can be fairly close to the turbo in the downpipe... my suggestion is make sure you can access it easily. As long as there are no leaks between the turbo and the wideband O2 you will get an accurate reading.
What size turbo are you going to be running?
Also, I have seen others run the stock size throttle body, I don't see anything wrong with that, but upgrading to an aftermarket bseries intake manifold and larger throttle body is not a bad choice.
I would like to thank you hashmam for being my friend and posting on my thread. yeah I'm going to do what tdurr Said. he's the man right now .I appreciate you homie. but the turbo right now is a T3 T4 generic turbo it came with the kit . It's claiming they put out 485 horsepower I'm kind of scared it's going to blow up on the dyno. In the future I plan on running a Garrett turbo off of Mercedes . I decided to take the car on a 800 mile road trip to Orlando . 400 miles there 400 back. I replace the fuel pump a couple months ago with the $40 one off eBay the claim to hold 500 horsepower. I bought this one before I learned about the walbro 255. But for $40 this has been one of the best performance parts I have ever put on the car in my 13 years of owning it. I think I mainly got it because it said it was high performance and it has a lifetime warranty Japanese made .So back to the road trip .car running great Like A Champion .hundred miles from reaching my destination car starts running like I hit a big water puddle and it sucked up water backfire bubbling just running like shit. I'm on I-75 and there's no rest stops or little towns to stop for 15 miles so I pull over pop the hood check it out I see there's liquid splattered everywhere it looked like I thought a radiator hose blew up .what happened my battery blew up!!! battery acid everywhere all up in the intake on my new plug wires battery acid burned part of my plug wires away . take pipe off cuz the air filters right there and the battery is just blowing it directly into it. So I get it back on the road it takes about 15-20 minutes to run the water off or battery acid before it the motor was running fine again. then I said fuck it I'm going all the way .so I took it all the way and went to the nearest store which was a Walmart at the time closest to my destination. pop the hood to unhook the battery for my cord charge and Battery was round instead of square so I purchase battery $80 enjoyed a couple days in Orlando and now it's time to head back. As I go to fill up the car with gas to leave it starts raining and my intake piping is off. no problem and I'll just do it at the gas station covered out of the rain well it was a thinner battery the newer battery is the one for the car so my piping didn't fit said fuck it pop the hats do in the back hauled ass for 30 miles it rained and the car ran like shit I would have not ran it through the rain like that but I had to get back to be at work on Tuesday but after the rain stopped in the motor dried out and ran great and I made it home safely and right as I sat down that's when hash man replied to my thread car hit 400,000 miles on my way back .new dash cover came in today
Got behind on the build alternator went out alternator replaced Wishbone motor mount replaced . Starting to work on interior almost all the parts are in
Spec clutch level 2 plus. came in the mail the other day.been really busy with work not much time on my hands
400,000 eh? I just hit 311,000 myself. I'll race you to 500,000.
No problem sounds good Champion Runner
lmk how that clutch holds up. I don't understand how their 2+ holds better than a stage 3. But having a 2&3 at different points you will like the clutch for sure. Just know the stage 2 does not do well with 220hp.
Sure I will let you know as soon as I go through the 500 mile break in on it you will be the first to know thank you for all your info and help I've been doing more research on the OBD1 swap . Getting down to all work and no time
Not a problem man. I hope you don't have any problems like i do.
Decided to go ahead and bolt up turbo header and turbo combination .to see where I was with my clearance and downpipe and intercooler piping. stainless exhaust studs installed. had to cut part of the motor mount bracket out and motor wedding to have clearance for the turbo. what a nightmare I have to find some kind of T3 spacer a thicker spacer. It's my daily driver so I had to take it back apart. EGR tube removed and capped .I can verify EGR taper plug for a 2.0 Nissan part number 14052 - 21R00 fits great in stock header. that's all I have for now see you next time
Cygnus x-1 mount upgrade may have save you from cuting the stock one up. But its really unavoidable at some point most people end up cutting them out or crossmember to Turbo
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Thank you for your info I'm pretty confident that the two bolts that hold the mount are secure. Even with the spacer the turbo so big , such a tight squeeze the oil lines may have to be at a 45 degree angle. Still trying to figure out how I'm going to do the intercooler piping, may have to switch to Honda Civic half size radiator for clearance
Half size radiator is the most common way to go you can also look for truck radiators many places offer them now but they range anywhere between 499 to 750 depending on what brand you go. As far as intercoolers go you can use the one that came in your kit or you can also opt out to get a radiator with a dual-sided Inlet so you don't have to run extra piping would make life a little bit easier but once again those are expensive. I don't remember who it was but somebody here just recently I picked up a nice intercooler and Tuck radiator kit for around a grand from speedfactory that's pretty nice she also looks pretty awesome on the Accord
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Thank you for all the info. With the clearance of the motor mount on thinking about running the compressor housing outlet upward
Its all fun and games tell someone falls in there. Its become a dust and small rock trap.
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Yes sir trial and error. thank you for writing on my thread. it seems like the 86 turbo build kind of dead.
Lol you should check some of the other this is far from dead. Ive commented more here then my own build over the last 6 months lol
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Have you switched over to OBD1 yet
Yes I have just long enough to get it running then I pulled to head and to have it cleaned so the I can put my cam and duel vavle springs and titanium retainers before I put my turbo setup on it. I just got my itm back form being port maked to the 72mm tb I'm running. Not is to complete my milspec wirring harness but thats not going so well. I still have to the radiator and a bunch or other little things but its my project car so there isn't much of a rush as there is a need to be doing right the first time
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Where did you purchase the titanium caps what kind of throttle body are you running
Yes sir there's a lot of tedious work that's got to be done. Mine is my daily driver so I don't have much time with work
I got them from a member here a while ago. They were custom made from what I understand. I didn't really ask many questions because I got a hell of a deal. My TB is BDL industry 72mm something but it was much bigger than my skunk2 b16 ITM port was so i had it opened up.
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Thank you for the info. I still have a lot of research to do
Here's my build. I took over where the last guy left off.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59851
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Super clean car looking good mine used to look like that before I used it like a truck
Thanks it need paint and my cf trunk on the hood was a cheap pick up but was sanded for recoating and has holes cut in it that don't need to be there. Just thing that are the never ending list of shit to get down lol
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Nice progress. How I wish I could start a build like yours. Too bad I'm not that knowledgeable on engines.
The engine is actually easy all you'll need is a Honda repair manual and a set of tools. The best way to learn is to get in there and do it. The first time I disassembled it took 3 days the second time took a day and a half. And the last time I took it apart was easy because I already knew what to do. did not even need the repair manuals. Took me about 8 hours to do the Pistons and everything.
More Parts came in today .we got the 96 - 00 Honda Civic half size radiator. Bisimoto heat-treated valve springs. And motor mount adapter plates from cygnus X - 1
Awsome! Good deal man. Keep the progress going
:lol:Getting a little bit closer baby steps lol
Also got the power door lock kit
power doors ftw!
Call supposed to be cutting weight not Adding it. Lol ahahahha
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Moving on up. Trying to be a high roller like you guys.lol
Gotta have that push button start from inside to be pinkey up fancy
Front motor mount installed. Excellent upgrade. Less vibration and smoother in between shifting. And a lot more room two thumbs up
where did u get the mount
You can get the black mounts from almost any auto parts store the red ones I ordered from the internet eBay. Energy suspension GM transmission mount
X2
Rear motor mount installed.
good progress. do you love the mounts or do you love the mounts?
Gotta love them .they changed the whole Drive ability of the car. It feels good and makes it feel more solid. Awesome upgrade
More Parts came in replacement power steering pump and T3 turbo spacer
Bueno!
See Bueno .Honda Civic radiator installed made custom piece aluminum to hold radiator inn place
Good stuff. Be sure to use a rubber grommet around that top peg otherwise it can shear off.
Good idea on the aluminum piece. I still have not installed mine but I will keep this in mind.
Thanks . don't forget about me when you do lol :deal:
yeah looks easy and better than cutting up the stock support.
Yes sir. this is just a rough estimate Outlook of it .I still got a lot of cleaning up and detailing .grinding / cutting to do to it thanks
Bisimoto heat shield intake manifold gasket came in today. Prepping front bumper for paint
Front bumper painted. Intercooler and accessories painted to blend in with the front bumper. Radiator fan installed wired up
New carpet came in today
awsome! progress is dope!
Thanks dude. More parts ARP Rod studs part #208-6001
hell yea.
Radiator plate cleaned up and painted to match the rest of the car. Preparing to disassemble motor. Time to get out the pressure washer and tools
awww snap!
Cylinder head removed. Two broken studs. And aluminum piece that holds distributor fell apart. Trial and error !! WTB Aluminum distributor rocker arm piece and lower timing belt cover
Pm me. I got one in a spare head in ga. Can ship next weekend
Thermal throttle body gasket receive today
noice. going b series intake correct?
In the future this is for the stock manifold Part from p2r Power rev racing for 88-91 crx-si
got ya.
Oil pan and pistons removed ;)
Pistons cleaned up and ARP Rod studs installed. ARP Rod studs are a hair shorter than stock. A tip for anyone installing these take your time when you install the new studs. It's best to tap and tighten tap and tighten. So that heads just twist on you.
Turbo return line oil pan fitting installed
Valve cover painted. That is all for this weekend
I like ur style
Do I need these parts ?
Those are your idle solenoid and AC idle-up. It looks like you're going OBD1, so they'll be useless.
Cool thanks. I want to remove everything I'm not going to need
"Update" Pistons back in oil pan back on transmission removed. More Parts fuel pump relay kit from xenocron and 0bd1 distributor
Unbolt that battery tray lol