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Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Since I have decided to daily drive the 3gee again I thought it would be interesting to start a thread with the adventures of owning and driving such an old car everyday. I know some of you drive yours everyday but in reality starting to daily drive a 31 year old car is ludicrous to just about everyone. I am willing to take it on.
Started driving it daily three and a half weeks ago. I expect a lot of new piddly issues during the first few months as the car gets broken in again. So with a fire extinguisher in the car lets go.
First thing is that this car has a lot of leaks. I have to park in clients driveways quite often and don't want to leave a puddle of oil everywhere but the past couple days it was leaving a trail of fluid as i backed out. Turns out its power steering fluid coming from the rack. Probably blew a gasket. I'll look at it this weekend and will post plenty of pictures in this thread.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
There's still a streak at my 1st kids old daycare where my car would dump PS fluid before I had the rack replaced lol
I feel ya though, I daily mine and have gone through just about every seal or gasket you can replace without tearing the engine apart. Only one I have now is the shift shaft seal, it leaves a spot when my car sits for a bit.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
I just got my car back together and planned to pretty much daily it, though I still have a perfectly practical Chevy Colorado too (gets shit mpg but the Honda isn't much better). Unfortunately I am leaking out the accel pump and the passenger side axle seal, leaving a nice spot in my new driveway. I don't expect this car to be that bad, though I am trying to get bike carbs on it asap, so my expectations still aren't high. No PS anymore, I think that remedied my rack leak.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
haha, mine gets the worst mpg for a car it's size. Just driving it to work which is 10 minutes away and 75% of the drive is interstate costs me 15$ a week. but I accepted that fact considering what I've done to it =P
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
I'm still rolling on a bent rim from when I ran into a curb months ago by driving like a meathead in the rain. :( And yeah, I have lots of leaks too. Nothing that leaves a puddle, but lots of seepage and wetness everywhere. When I got my rebuild kit from the machine shop, it didn't occur to me that they'd give me one they'd had sitting around since '89. Everything I replaced is leaking. So frustrating.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
I've got a full set of 13" steelies if you want em, lmao
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
I could get a rim from the junkyard easy enough, but I'm holding out for rims so I can be fancy. Too bad I'm broke all the time. So this is how I do it. I drive on the bent rim and bitch about it. Great strategy, right?
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
the vibrations keep the women happy
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Women bring confusion and pain. It's MGTOW around here.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
It didn't take long to find those blue and red flashing lights to follow me. Yesterday I took my daughters to work for a day with Dad. There was a roundabout we we're driving through and nobody around so I went around it twice at 35-40mph but not squealing the tires. As was going around the second time I noticed a car coming towards us and was sure it was a police SUV. I got off the roundabout and within a second or two I see the flashing lights behind me. Pulled over and then he asked me. Do you think this is a racetrack? I said, I was just having a little fun with the kids here. He took my license and registration and came back but didn't give me a ticket or a warning. Maybe it was the girls in the car that saved me from getting a ticket, I'm not sure but I probably could have gotten a ticket for reckless driving.
On a side note those left hand turns sure starve the oil pump. My oil gauge was pegged at zero for a few seconds around the turn. This car handles so well it needs a dry sump system.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Had the same thing happen to me. My 5 year old loves the sound of my car and always is trying to get me to gun it. So I did once and sure enough, passed by a cop and got pulled over. Best part was my kid laughing her ass off at me getting pulled over and she wouldn't say a word to the cop, just stared at him.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Damn you guys! Bringing the cops down!
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I'm learning quite a lot about cops on my daily commute. I've learned that if you are passing over a double yellow, and a sheriff comes around the corner and sees you, he will NOT pull you over and write you a ticket. However, your daily commute route WILL be crawling with Highway Patrol for roughly the next month after that.
I've also learned that if you sling shot past a school district patrol car at roughly 90... ish... he will NOT write you a ticket. But he will pull you over and give you a lecture that includes the word "reckless" several times.
I need to rethink my life.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
See, I just get boring shit... pulled over for doing 41 in a 35 once... LOOK OUT SPEED RACER!!
Now the one above was 51 in a 30 but that road does NOT need to be a 30mph speed limit and it's one of those ones that the limit changes multiple times so it's a massive trap.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Glad to know I'm not the only notorious 3g driver. I've been puled over 3 times in the last month alone, still haven't managed to get a ticket though! ...Even though I was doing 65 in a 35. The car is just way too fun to drive slow with. Love the sound.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
I have noticed that as my gas tank gets low it takes longer to start. It always starts but just cranks a bit longer. I'm not sure what the cause of that would be. I have changed the filters a few years ago but the car did sit.for a year with the same gas in it.
As I post this I remember that I do have a fuel pressure guage in the engine bay. So ill check that as I run through a tank. Anybody have any ideas let me know.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
filter screen maybe all gunked up. Pull the pump out and check it.
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I don't know if you have one of these are not but it sure did make a difference on mine. fuel pump relay kit. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F302951962397
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
My 89 LXi was doing the same thing I changed the fuel filter and it did help a bit but then it started acting up again not wanting to start. So I changed out my fuel pump relay. All is good now.
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I finally was able to check the fuel pressure white it was doing it and it's not it. Fuel pressure is fine the entire time. It does appear to be flooding it by the way it sounds. Not sure how to tell for sure or what would cause that.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Oh, I know this one. Replace the ignition switch and clean your grounds. And replace your injectors. And install a fuel pressure gauge. And new brake pads. And put nice rims on it. And replace your coil and TW sensor for good measure. LOL
I got nothing.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Seriously though, that's what I just did for my warm restart issue. One of those things did it. Might have been the grounds or the ignition switch. It's the oddball stuff that strikes now. I can't tell you how I figured it out either. Just a lot of head-scratching, wild guessing and some easter-egging.
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I'm going to upgrade the grounds, they look tiny and my headlights are acting weird anyways. When i have the right turn signal on my left headlight will flip up once sometimes. I had an issue earlier with the headlights going crazy and i tightened the valve cover ground and it fixed it.
Snooz, already put the fuel pressure regulator on the new wheels and replaced the TW sensor in the passenger headliner......am i good now?
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You didnt put new brake pads on, you're screwed my dude.
Mine has a quirk in the hazard circuit, just pulled the fuse for it and it went away. Downside is I dont have a hazard flashing function but oh well.
One day I want to wire it so I can flip the lights one at a time just for funzies.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
My hazards haven't worked for at least 20 years. Every time we tried to use them, they blinkers would stop working for a day or so. LOL. When we smelled burning wires, we pulled the module.
@Conozo, it seems like any time the electrical system is going weird, the grounds are the culprit. I was going to upgrade my grounds until I realized that it was going to cost somewhere north of $0, so I cleaned up the contacts as an interim measure and it really worked well.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
When I first got my car the headlights kept going out even after restoring the multifunction switch, so while driving at night you had to be ready to rapidly mash the high beam switch if you didn't want to end up in the ditch that day. I pitched the valve cover ground and routed a #1 cable from the pick up hook on the intake manifold to the shock tower and that was probably about the same time that stopped happening. The high beam switch is a perfect example of how you absolutely do not want bad grounds in this car, most cars use a relay to switch them, but the 3g sends all the current through the switch that sits right next to your left hand and any extra resistance in the grounds, or any wires for that matter, will make it hotter. When I pulled my engine I also replaced the battery-chassis ground with a #1 cable and a soldered battery connector for good measure. Believe it or not my hazards even work (though I just went out to test it and I had the flip the switch twice before they started working and that got my butt to pucker a little bit).
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I'm getting close to working on the power steering system that suddenly decided to leak everywhere. I was thinking about it and it still seems odd to me that it went from just fine to leaking at the pump, and every end of the rack all at once. I was wondering if possibly the speed sensor is not regulating the pressure correctly because if i fill the fluid up and get into the higher RPMs i can smell the power steering fluid coming out, i guess it could be the pump malfunctioning too.
Edit:
I also did clean up the grounds that were causing the headlight, turn signal, and wiper problem that was mentioned in another thread. This ground pictured here had the bolt sheered off so it was barely touching metal. I tried to drill the bolt out but I wasn't getting anywhere, so i made a new one underneath. http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/l...t%20ground.jpg
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
I feel ya about the PS system. When I bought mine, guy told me pressure hose leaked, which it did... badly. Replace that.
Month later the rack itself starts pouring fluid on left turns. Bad enough that I would leave streaks everywhere. Replace rack.
About a week after replacing rack, pump itself goes out. Replace that.
Then I had a hose burst near the speed sensor, fixed that.
and just yesterday I had to fix another hose that was leaking...
At this point, the PS system is completely replaced except for the tank, the metal lines, and a few rubber lines.
In the end though... worth it. I adore the PS in these cars.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Putting the wrong kind of fluid in will do that.
Hope you get it sorted out soon.
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I did put regular autozone powersteering fluid it during the FI swap, never started it but then found out that i shouldn't use anything other than honda power steering fluid because it doesn't have any detergents in it. Did drain it by unplugging a hose and refilled with honda fluid but i know it still had autozone in it.
Yesterday i drove on a scale, after subtracting myself and the stuff in the trunk, the car came in at 2545 lbs. I thought that wasn't bad at all. Basically im an SEI minus a radio, AC, power windows, locks, and sunroof. Anything i do in the future to the car will be mindful of weight savings. Driving my 1800lbs Honda Insight has taught me a lot on how important it is to be lightweight in a car.
Weights below for reference.
Curb Weight (MT)
DX: 1134 kg 2500 lbs
DX*: 1156 kg 2549 lbs
LX*: 1177 kg 2595 lbs
LXi*: 1218 kg 2685 lbs
SEi*: 1233 kg 2718 lbs
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
I've used O'reilly's PS fluid for years and never had issues in Hondas. They have two different ones though so you have to get the right one. One is for vehicles prior to 2006 and the other is for after 2006.
This particular cars PS system was already damaged when I got it so can't really blame the fluid on it =P
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Just drove a full tank of gas at regular speeds to see what MPGs a normal driver would get. Got 33.25MPG which i thought was pretty good. I'm sure i could do better too. Typically before i was getting 28-29 with a lot of high speed driving and frequent 5k accelerations.
For reference -
26-27mpg average for stock carb and auto tranny
28mpg for weber carb and auto tranny
Other updates. Still trying to fix my Insight that was hit by a deer, haven't found a good fender for it yet. I want to get it fixed so i can drive it for two weeks while i button everything up on the accord regarding cruise control, suspension bushings, oil leaks, complete rebuild/replacement of the power steering system, and dash heat/air controls installed.
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Did an oil analysis the other day. Not too good, not terrible. I had a lot of cold starts where the car wasnt started in months and it was quite painful to watch the lag in oil pressure after start.
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/2...Blackstone.PNG
This week i have discovered I have blowby. If i put a piece of paper on the oil cap opening it flutters, this may also explain my oil leaks everywhere. Not sure what to do about it or what caused it. Was it those cold starts, is it the fact that this rebuilt engine wasn't really rebuilt (that was another story a long time ago i would like to forget about)?
I'm going to do a compression test. Is it possible to pull the pistons out of the bottom and replace the rings as long as the cylinder walls are ok.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Quote:
Originally Posted by
conozo
Did an oil analysis the other day. Not too good, not terrible. I had a lot of cold starts where the car wasnt started in months and it was quite painful to watch the lag in oil pressure after start.
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/2...Blackstone.PNG
This week i have discovered I have blowby. If i put a piece of paper on the oil cap opening it flutters, this may also explain my oil leaks everywhere. Not sure what to do about it or what caused it. Was it those cold starts, is it the fact that this rebuilt engine wasn't really rebuilt (that was another story a long time ago i would like to forget about)?
I'm going to do a compression test. Is it possible to pull the pistons out of the bottom and replace the rings as long as the cylinder walls are ok.
Any engine is going to push a bit of air out of the oil filler , the crank spinning , pistons moving up and down move quite a bit of air around . The pcv takes care of a bit of it , but not all.
It would be easier to pull the head off to take the pistons out , you probably wouldn't get them past the crank .
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
If I'm reading the Comments correctly, he's telling you to test again at your next oil change and see if the metals are still high. In that case, you could be having excessive wear, but at this point it's potentially normal given the recent rebuild. Are you experiencing any runability issues?
You'll always have some blowby. The PCV should take care of that. If it's coming out of your seals, then you have a PCV problem. Most likely you just have old seals. A compression test should tell you a lot on that score. A leak down test would tell you more if compression is low.
PS: are you really changing your oil at 2500 miles?
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I might have changed my mind on the air conditioning. Its been crazy hot driving lately. I drive all over town throughout the day in my uniform of jeans and a polo and its been half sunny half rain. so i cant have the windows open and its raining and sunny, very humid. I'm showing up at clients all sweaty. Id need to get all the components from a parts car and id probably fill it with a propane mix.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Quote:
Originally Posted by
conozo
id probably fill it with a propane mix.
You can buy 134 cheaper and easier. If you're going to pull all the parts anyway, you might as well dump some flush through them and convert it over.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
I thought that the compressor wouldn't work with r134 because the tolerances aren't as tight as they need to be for the smaller r134 molecules. Plus they do sell r12 replacement that's made of propane and isobutane mix, that's what I'm talking about with the propane mix.
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I bought the es-12a, idk what its made out of, but its pretty cheap per oz, granted you have to buy a case of it. My ac is going together today, ill vacuum it next week... really hope it works. I had r134a in the keihin compressor and it leaked a bit and it was noisy.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
I'm all for experimentation, even when you know it's destined to fail. You learn a lot, have more fun and live a more interesting life that way. I tried Duracool a few years ago (followed by a foray into bbq gas which is another topic). Duracool was a hassle to find, a hassle to order, a wait to get in the mail, trickier to get the pressures right and after shipping, was quite a bit more than the 134 I could have bought at WalMart same day. When it all leaked out again in a week, I wondered why I'd gone to all the bother. If you have a Keihin, then do what you must. In my opinion though, the Keihin is just garbage period, and at 30+ years old is pretty much done no matter how you accommodate it. You're going to have problems with it and you're going to lose a few fills before giving up and putting in a Denso. Even in that case, you're still better off filling with 134 just for the ease and cost savings. With 134 you can easily find pressure charts and help on the web, you can talk to your buddies about what's going wrong with your system, you can take it to a shop and not worry. With propane, you'll find no documentation and everyone you mention it to will back away and call you crazy.
If it's just a car you're trying to squeeze a few more miles out of before sending to the crusher, then propane makes sense. If you're curious and want to give it a whirl, then do it. Have fun and know that 134 is probably in your future. It all depends on what you hope to get out of the car.
In your case specifically, conozo, where you're relying on this as a daily driver, ask yourself if you want to spend a lot of time fiddling with an experimental refrigerant and old parts when you should be driving to client meetings. For me, this is one of those cases where you need to drop some cash and do the job properly. Get a new Denso (if you can find one), replace the hoses, do the retrofit and put the project to bed. You don't want to be standing on the side of the road, in the heat, wondering where your refrigerant went and just how flammable propane really is.
As I continue to drive a very old car, I'm realizing that these creature comfort issues are the single most important thing to get right. A car that's uncomfortable, hot, loud, temperamental, broken knobs and windows, faded paint, lots of vibration, etc. is a car you won't keep, no matter how good the performance. So many guys focus on performance and produce a car that's unbearable. They pretend that they can live without seats or AC or power steering. They do it for a while, but end up driving a Prius because there's less drama. If you're serious about keeping any car for the long haul, then these things are very important; the most important. Yes, it's expensive, but a new car is always more expensive than the most expensive repair. I'm not telling anyone what to do, just framing these seemingly minor decisions in a wider context. What I will tell you to do is, since you'll have the system open anyway, flush your system properly and refill with Ester oil. That way, you'll have the option to go with 134 later if you want.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Dr_Snooz
I'm all for experimentation, even when you know it's destined to fail. You learn a lot, have more fun and live a more interesting life that way. I tried Duracool a few years ago (followed by a foray into bbq gas which is another topic). Duracool was a hassle to find, a hassle to order, a wait to get in the mail, trickier to get the pressures right and after shipping, was quite a bit more than the 134 I could have bought at WalMart same day. When it all leaked out again in a week, I wondered why I'd gone to all the bother. If you have a Keihin, then do what you must. In my opinion though, the Keihin is just garbage period, and at 30+ years old is pretty much done no matter how you accommodate it. You're going to have problems with it and you're going to lose a few fills before giving up and putting in a Denso. Even in that case, you're still better off filling with 134 just for the ease and cost savings. With 134 you can easily find pressure charts and help on the web, you can talk to your buddies about what's going wrong with your system, you can take it to a shop and not worry. With propane, you'll find no documentation and everyone you mention it to will back away and call you crazy.
If it's just a car you're trying to squeeze a few more miles out of before sending to the crusher, then propane makes sense. If you're curious and want to give it a whirl, then do it. Have fun and know that 134 is probably in your future. It all depends on what you hope to get out of the car.
In your case specifically, conozo, where you're relying on this as a daily driver, ask yourself if you want to spend a lot of time fiddling with an experimental refrigerant and old parts when you should be driving to client meetings. For me, this is one of those cases where you need to drop some cash and do the job properly. Get a new Denso (if you can find one), replace the hoses, do the retrofit and put the project to bed. You don't want to be standing on the side of the road, in the heat, wondering where your refrigerant went and just how flammable propane really is.
As I continue to drive a very old car, I'm realizing that these creature comfort issues are the single most important thing to get right. A car that's uncomfortable, hot, loud, temperamental, broken knobs and windows, faded paint, lots of vibration, etc. is a car you won't keep, no matter how good the performance. So many guys focus on performance and produce a car that's unbearable. They pretend that they can live without seats or AC or power steering. They do it for a while, but end up driving a Prius because there's less drama. If you're serious about keeping any car for the long haul, then these things are very important; the most important. Yes, it's expensive, but a new car is always more expensive than the most expensive repair. I'm not telling anyone what to do, just framing these seemingly minor decisions in a wider context. What I will tell you to do is, since you'll have the system open anyway, flush your system properly and refill with Ester oil. That way, you'll have the option to go with 134 later if you want.
Snooz
I went ahead and signed you up for a new Civic Type R in white. Hop down to the dealership tomorrow sign the paperwork. I made an AM appointment.
https://www.tracyhonda.com/vehicle-c.../civic-type-r/
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1 Attachment(s)
Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Quote:
Originally Posted by
conozo
I thought that the compressor wouldn't work with r134 because the tolerances aren't as tight as they need to be for the smaller r134 molecules. Plus they do sell r12 replacement that's made of propane and isobutane mix, that's what I'm talking about with the propane mix.
Attachment 9675
I bought this new a few years ago I think it has a lifetime warranty. Direct fit if you have the bracket and the manifold that goes on it.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
My problem with the denso is where the hell do you get the bracket and the manifold? My keihin is working good right now, pegged my gauge set out on vacuum and held it, its not making any noises like it did on r134 and I dont see any leaks. Put an o ring on the low pressure side of the compressor and fill it with a really heavy refrigerant. This car still held enough of the original r12 to run the ac after 32 years, not that it was cold, but I have no reason to think it wont last several years on a charge of something like es12. Ill report back if Im wrong, but Im sitting comfortable in the sonic drive through right now after going through hell this week with no ac. I gave the keihin a bad wrap too but unless theres something glaringly wrong with your compressor I would give it a shot.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ShiRen
My problem with the denso is where the hell do you get the bracket and the manifold? My keihin is working good right now, pegged my gauge set out on vacuum and held it, its not making any noises like it did on r134 and I dont see any leaks. Put an o ring on the low pressure side of the compressor and fill it with a really heavy refrigerant. This car still held enough of the original r12 to run the ac after 32 years, not that it was cold, but I have no reason to think it wont last several years on a charge of something like es12. Ill report back if Im wrong, but Im sitting comfortable in the sonic drive through right now after going through hell this week with no ac. I gave the keihin a bad wrap too but unless theres something glaringly wrong with your compressor I would give it a shot.
Its a good question I dunno where to get the bracket or the manifold either. Im not sure the bracket is different.
I started on an AC conversion thread a while ago but it gets derailed and I dont have any info or Keihin. maybe we could split this one off to a new thread.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Oldblueaccord
I think you got that wrong. The guy you quoted obviously wants a Lincoln.
Quote:
My problem with the denso is where the hell do you get the bracket and the manifold?
Junkyard. Get 'em quick before they're all gone.
Quote:
maybe we could split this one off to a new thread.
Sure. Do we have anything more than 2 posts to put in it?
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Hahaha... yeah the only car in my junkyards was an 88 lxi that still had the keihin, and the only ones I even see running are dxs, heck I own 2
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My cruise hasnt worked since the conversion. I think its really a ground issue only to be solved by moving the body ground on the valve cover or welding the body panels together instead of having them just bolted. Like the painted support across the front by the radiator, its not connected very strong and the ground connection is weak.
Anyways i was looking for smaller cruise control options to clean up the engine bay, on newer cars its an electric motor that is all quite small. I know ours is vacuum operated. I found this on amazon Universal Vacuum Cruise Control it appears much smaller, looks like the buttons could be wired into our existing stock cruise buttons, and it use VSS to control the speed. Has anybody ever used this system or some other alternative that is smaller and more simple than ours.
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Im going to work on an electronic cruise at some point. my plan is to chop the speedo cable and drive a speed sensor off it, use an arduino as the brain, convert to an electric speedo as well. its not super complex, but I dont have the time right now and Id like to wait for my next raise.
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Just did 3 days of road trips totaling about 700 miles. Car ran pretty good, found a couple items to be worked on. Cruise control as mentioned above, sound deadening, and i think my one non honda cv shaft is starting to go bad. It does have about 8000 miles on it so and is one of those autostore crappy rebuilt ones. It was making a metallic crunchy noise when letting off the gas around 30-40mph and in stop and go traffic it would go crunchy when starting out from a stop. Never any noise when turning but there seemed to be a lot of torque steer, maybe from the slop in the joints. So i'll make sure it is the longer CV shaft which i think it is and ill take it into a local clutch and driveshaft place here in town and see if they can rebuild it. I know others have mentioned it but the remanufactured CV shafts are total junk and i am tired of them.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
What's cruise control???
Just did 1900 miles to Texas and back with no cruise, no a/c, and this thing loud as hell. Fuck, it was fun though =D
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
I'm not denying it was fun but cruise would help me keep my speeds in check. I often find my self speeding. Passed several cops going 7-10 over. Surprised they didn't pull me over.
This car is a speed demon for some reason, it's quite easy to go 100, I do it weekly.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Most cops and troopers wont bother with up to 10 over... it's when you're doing 15 over they get upset.
I say most cause there are some who will, especially around the end of the month.
I had to do a double take when I hit Texas and saw the 75mph speed limit sign lol
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Here in northern Indiana and Ohio they will pull you over for going more than 5 over. In Indiana we have many 4 lane divided highways where the speed limit is 55mph which always seems agonizingly slow when you come from other states where there are hills and curves with 70mph speed limits.
I'm going to do an experiment since my other car is an insight that can get 95mpg I'm going to see what I can get on the accord on this tank. I'm shooting for 40mpg. Currently my best is 33.5mpg and that was just all highway and not trying to get good mpg.
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I was happy I averaged 28mpg on the Texas trip lol. I expected less.
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I tried to get good gas mileage but got 34mpg which is good but considering how different I was driving it was surprising. So I guess I'll just continue to drive it like I stole it.
I forgot to post yesterday that it was my cars happy adoption date. 31 years ago my dad purchased it. I wish I could figure out the exact manufacturer date but it doesn't seem to be coded into the window sticker. It only says September 88 on the door Vin tag.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Happy birthday!
I've had the same thing happen to me. If I drive very conservative, the mileage is underwhelming. I don't know why that is, but it's a convenient excuse. LOL
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Haha, mine drinks gas no matter what now.
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I had something amazing happen yesterday. When i was starting my car yesterday it sounded awful, a metallic grinding noise and it got worse the more i started it throughout the day. It was so bad that i even left the car on while i went in for a computer repair job because I didn't have enough room to push start it where it was parked. So the amazing part was that, at 8:30PM i called up the closest AutoZone and asked if they had a starter and they didn't but mentioned that the next closest store in town has one in stock. Amazing! I went and got it and installed it in about 30 minutes, car starts fine now. The old starter was the original Honda starter, had a good run till it exploded.
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/s..._explosion.jpg
Also recently upgraded the ground wire that goes to the valve cover. Now my left headlight works and the turn signals work when the headlights are on without spazzing out. I still may move that ground to a better bolt, i just don't like where it is, small contact areas to the sheet metal.
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Press F to pay respects to our fallen starter brother.
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F
@conozo: I moved that ground wire to the shock tower and it's working well.
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I think the valve cover ground needs an xtra washer because you can bottom out the original acorn nut nut the wire wont be tight. Also the last set of grommets I got were plated so I ground off the plating as well. Dielectric grease on everything of course.
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Think all the grounds on these cars need upgraded. I had an issue a while back with the battery terminal, ran a new wire to the shock tower from the negative terminal and never had a problem since.
Still need to get my signals working though...
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I may have to bust out the 2000 Honda Insight for a couple weeks while i get the accord ready for the winter. I need to put the new dash in so i can put the heater controls in. But along with that includes some rust repair, welding on the firewall. Remove the sound deadening behind the firewall and add new sound deadening material. I will replace the AC evaporator in prep for the AC system install next summer and get rid of my mechanical oil pressure guage and replace it with an electric one. My mechanical autometer one is very noisy even though i bled all the air out of the line. I'm debating weather to cleanup the wiring since im going to keep my car with manual windows, locks, mirrors, no sunroof so i can remove about half of those wires and dangling plugs under the dash from the LXI wiring harness.
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I hear you. I'm sitting on a big pile of deferred maintenance myself. Have fun with the repairs.
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Holla if you want to sell that mechanical gauge😀
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Other news. I finally found all the parts and fixed my Insight yesterday. I hit a deer in it 8 months ago and it took that long to find a headlight, fender, door and a few other clips and screws. I was searching over the entire US and drove many hours to pickup parts. I'm going to drive it for a few weeks to make sure it's in good working order then sell it.
Let me tell you, I am never owing another rare car again. They sold this car for 6 years and only sold around 16,000 units worldwide. They are 20 years old but the real problem is that since they were so uncommon in the first place, parts were never made for them. You may be thinking our 3geez are rare but they actually sold a ton of them new, manufacturers actually made replacement parts. It's so much easier to find parts for the accord compared to the insight there is no comparison believe it or not.
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I been wanting a Dodge Viper Gen 4 or gen 5 for a while but shopping around and research its a low production hand built car and parts are very hard to get even for the newest gen 5's. Its one of the reason I went with Camaro is they are everywhere and the warranty. Im got tired of working on my cars where I got to make every part or search for 6 months for something.
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Amen. It's alright on your once-a-year classic, but not on a daily driver.
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Haven't done much to the accord lately. But I've been looking at it and researching a few things as it needs a bit of TLC to make it winter worthy and driveway worthy.
This summer i drove about 14,000 miles or so on it. Didn't really do anything to it, just drove it. My power steering bit the bullet early on, it leaked from everywhere, everywhere on the rack and pump itself. So I've been thinking about it. I really didn't mind not having power steering, sure it would be nice, but i want to try an experiment. I will be removing the power steering pump, lines, and rack to modify into a manual rack. I'll be taking the rack apart to remove the chambers (not sure what to call them) to remove all the resistance and remove any need for fluid. It will simply be greased and sealed like a manual rack. I would drive the car like that for a while till i figure out the next part which is electric assist. I have seen people use a Gen II Prius power steering to replace their steering column to get electric power assist. The Prius unit would be powerful enough for this car, it only needs a positive and ground for power and it runs in safe mode without the Prius ECU but still gives assist as normal.
2nd issue is oil leaks, it looks like i have blow by but i haven't done an compression test to confirm but it leaks a lot of oil so i am also wondering if its caused by a non working PCV system. I would like to rip it all out and replace it completely. I have a feeling the baffle box is full of gooey oil and blocking all flow.
3rd more minor issue is cruise control, as mentioned above i want to abandon the factory system and put the aftermarket system that runs off the pulse generator. The aftermarket system is much smaller and would be more reliable. I would make it work with the factory buttons on the dash and steering wheel.
4th issue, after starting the car the end of the fuel rail where the fuel pressure regulator is leaks fuel like a mofo. I have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator with a gauge and its reading correctly so im not sure if it a loose connection or if its something more serious like a partially clogged fuel return line or something else. I really don't have a clue on that one at all but it does leak pretty bad for the first half a minute of driving.
In general as mentioned before i want to make the car as light weight as possible but keep it functioning which is part of the reasoning for switching the power steering system. I'll be keeping all the power steering parts just in case i want to put it back and it really doesn't work out.
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The trouble with those electric PS units is they come with a giant motor attached. You have to find a space to stash it under the car or under the dash. If you put it under the car, you'll be grinding and welding. I haven't looked under the dash too much but there's a lot going on under there. Keep us posted on what you figure out. I'm definitely interested.
The PCV system flows pretty well so l don't see it clogging, but who knows. I'd be more suspicious of old leaky seals.
Cruise control is a common add on for classic cars. You shouldn't have too much trouble making it work. Summit has kits for ~$200. That's money well spent IMO.
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Did some things today. Weight reduction. I removed the power steering pump and all the lines and removed the cruise control. Is was a very messy job, that power steering rack had leaked everywhere and on everything, it was a mess. There was pretty much no fluid in it at all. im going to drive it like this just for a little bit just to see if its any different than with the pump installed. Then ill remove the rack and replace the seals and convert it to a manual rack thats sealed up with good grease.
Before
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/P...20(Medium).jpg
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/P...20(Medium).jpg
After
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/P...20(Medium).jpg
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/P...20(Medium).jpg
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Quote:
Originally Posted by
conozo
Haven't done much to the accord lately. But I've been looking at it and researching a few things as it needs a bit of TLC to make it winter worthy and driveway worthy.
This summer i drove about 14,000 miles or so on it. Didn't really do anything to it, just drove it. My power steering bit the bullet early on, it leaked from everywhere, everywhere on the rack and pump itself. So I've been thinking about it. I really didn't mind not having power steering, sure it would be nice, but i want to try an experiment. I will be removing the power steering pump, lines, and rack to modify into a manual rack. I'll be taking the rack apart to remove the chambers (not sure what to call them) to remove all the resistance and remove any need for fluid. It will simply be greased and sealed like a manual rack. I would drive the car like that for a while till i figure out the next part which is electric assist. I have seen people use a Gen II Prius power steering to replace their steering column to get electric power assist. The Prius unit would be powerful enough for this car, it only needs a positive and ground for power and it runs in safe mode without the Prius ECU but still gives assist as normal.
2nd issue is oil leaks, it looks like i have blow by but i haven't done an compression test to confirm but it leaks a lot of oil so i am also wondering if its caused by a non working PCV system. I would like to rip it all out and replace it completely. I have a feeling the baffle box is full of gooey oil and blocking all flow.
3rd more minor issue is cruise control, as mentioned above i want to abandon the factory system and put the aftermarket system that runs off the pulse generator. The aftermarket system is much smaller and would be more reliable. I would make it work with the factory buttons on the dash and steering wheel.
4th issue, after starting the car the end of the fuel rail where the fuel pressure regulator is leaks fuel like a mofo. I have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator with a gauge and its reading correctly so im not sure if it a loose connection or if its something more serious like a partially clogged fuel return line or something else. I really don't have a clue on that one at all but it does leak pretty bad for the first half a minute of driving.
In general as mentioned before i want to make the car as light weight as possible but keep it functioning which is part of the reasoning for switching the power steering system. I'll be keeping all the power steering parts just in case i want to put it back and it really doesn't work out.
My friend with his Cobra kit car uses the Pirius gear boxes he really likes it. If you have any questions lemme know.
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Did some driving last week. The old Honda saved my life. Wednesday I was driving my Insight the I decided to switch it up, dropped the car off at home to use the Accord the rest of the day. I was on the highway with the Accord just starting to merge off to an off ramp and there was a Ford Escape coming right at me going the wrong way. We were both probably going 60mph. When I saw the car I wasn't exactly sure which way to swerve because I didn't know if this person was doing this on accident or if they were on a suicide mission, that thought was in a split second. I locked up all 4 tires for a split second and swerved to the right just avoiding the car. There was a car behind me by a bit, he went off in the grass and stopped. The off ramp goes down a hill so I couldn't see them for long but looked in my mirror but never saw them stop or move over. There was no way I could have moved out of the way if I were driving the Insight, it just doesn't handle like the Accord at those speeds. Thats probably the 5th time in my life I have avoided an accident from driving such a well handling car. Oh and driving without the power steering pump was not an issue at all, that was a real test.
On another note, after removing my non working cruise control my bouncy idle has disappeared. It must have had a vacuum leak in it.
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Eek! Glad you're okay. Please be safe out there.
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Ok, I am 90% sure I have excessive blowby. It leaks oil from every gasket and seal top to bottom of the engine. You can feel it when opening the oil fill cap and I'm loosing about a half a quart every 500 miles now. I don't think I'm burning much.
What can I do to test and figure this out. This is supposedly a new engine but had some cold starts after it sat for 3-4 years. The performance seems really good, pcv valve is fine, has plenty of power and doesn't smoke. I'll do a compression test and maybe get a boroscope to look at the cylinder walls but other than tearing it down to see if my piston oil rings are stuck I don't know.
Edit. One positive note the car has had no additional rust this winter because of the new coat of oil on the underbody everyone I drive.
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Cylinder leak down test will tell you what you need. A vacuum gauge might also be useful. I'd start with the vacuum gauge.
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2 Attachment(s)
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I purchased a leakdown tester and a boroscope the other day. When checking the engine cylinders 1,3,4 had no leaks but cylinder 2 had about 25% leak. So then i connected the air compressor to the cylinder and it was definitely leaking down into the crankcase. A look with the boroscope in that cylinder looked fine, all the cross hatch marks were there and there were no vertical scoring. So my guess is a stuck piston ring or oil control ring or both. I attempted to free it up if that was the case by putting just enough Marvel Mystery Oil in through the spark plug hole to cover the piston and let it soak. I did this repeatedly for 3-4 days, turning the engine over by hand before adding more. The last fill the oil did not drain through, the other times the oil was gone in an hour but this last time the oil sat there for a whole 24 hours. I got the oil out and ran the car for a bit and did another leakdown test and it did not show any leaking. I'm not calling it solved yet but that result was hopeful. I did drive it for a whole day after that and while i still had quite a few oil drips when parked the oil dipstick was still seated correctly and not pushed up.
Pic of cyl #2 and the spark plug. The other spark plus were normal, but you can see here it was definitely burning oil.
Attachment 9987
Attachment 9986
Other news, i exchanged the new starter that was put on the other month. It wouldnt start consistently all the time, sometimes resort to chugging. Replaced it and the new one starts fine all the time but now i get a metallic sound, its as if the gear is hitting the flywheel too hard. I am unsure if i installed it upside down, im not even sure that possible but ill take it off and have a look. The old one was off the car for a week or so while waiting for the autoparts store to figure out how to order the correct starter. They kept on ordering the automatic starter but since the old one was off for so long i forgot how it originally was on there.
Additionally i get a very loud hissing sound when starting a cold car for the first 5-10 seconds, i havent been able to diagnose it. Starts fine and idles like it always has, i initially though it was the sound of fuel spraying but i have watched it after starting and there is no fuel. I'll look next for a vacuum leak maybe by the brake booster. Hard to tell since its over so quick.
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That's impressive that you got the blowby fixed so easily. If you had taken that to a shop, it would have been an engine rebuild.
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What can i use to clean the oil and grime off the paint in my engine bay. Every cleaner i have tried takes off the paint too. Remember that white does not have a clear coat just like phoenix red.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Quote:
Originally Posted by
conozo
Ok, I am 90% sure I have excessive blowby. It leaks oil from every gasket and seal top to bottom of the engine. You can feel it when opening the oil fill cap and I'm loosing about a half a quart every 500 miles now. I don't think I'm burning much.
What can I do to test and figure this out. This is supposedly a new engine but had some cold starts after it sat for 3-4 years. The performance seems really good, pcv valve is fine, has plenty of power and doesn't smoke. I'll do a compression test and maybe get a boroscope to look at the cylinder walls but other than tearing it down to see if my piston oil rings are stuck I don't know.
Edit. One positive note the car has had no additional rust this winter because of the new coat of oil on the underbody everyone I drive.
I had a thought on this as my car leaks quite a bit too.
Do you run the stock EFI air intake setup?
Years ago I took all mine off and just run a KN filter cone straight off the TB. But it eliminated the port from the top of the valve cover to the air intake tract piping and I have always wondered if this is negating the PVC system.
Just a thought I have had over the years.
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I am running the stock intake and regular filter. Pvc system works as I checked it the other month.
As my previous post say, I do have excessive blowby and appeared to have fixed it but time will tell if it's gone for good. Still leaks a few drops everywhere I park, I've been putting some miles on it recently and will report how much oil I'm going through.
On another note I was driving in the country the other day low on gas and the car just died, luckily there was a random factory where I coasted into the parking lot. I thought I was going to have to call my wife to bring me gas way out to where I was but I smelled gas and thought that was odd to smell gas when running out of gas. I popped the hood and found the fuel return line popped off the fuel pressure regulator causing fuel to be sprayed all over the engine. Reconnected it and tightened it up more than it was before and was good to go. I was working so I had tools with me and I'm glad nothing caught fire even though I do keep a fire extinguisher in the car for reasons like this.
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Had some lady stop in her tracks to tell me how cool my Delorean was. :flash:
Also, purchased a set of rocker panels, so now I have those along with the rear quarter panels for the rust repair project in the future.
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Where did you find replacement panels???
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Ebay
There's only a few left and I think they only have sedan panels. Sorry coup and hatch guys.
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About a year ago I discovered a music genre I have never heard before and I love it. I do like techno/ electronic and this is slightly different. It's called synthwave or retrowave. It's the perfect music for driving these 80s cars in 2020.
Here are some of my favorite mixes on you tube
https://youtu.be/wOMwO5T3yT4
https://youtu.be/WI4-HUn8dFc
https://youtu.be/5C_gUic3cCo
What do you guys think?
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My goto driving music in an 80s car is stuff like Nujabes, Uyama Hiroto, MF Doom... but that may just be my goto anyway, the 80s car just adds to it.
There's always futurefunk and citypop when I'm feeling a little weebish too, and Daft Punk is always money.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Quote:
Originally Posted by
conozo
What do you guys think?
I like it!
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I think I purchased the last set of rocker panels available for our cars.
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/R...anelSet(1).jpg
Here is a closeup of the label for those who want to dig through the internet to find another set.
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/R...anelSet(2).jpg
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/R...anelSet(3).jpg
Maybe this winter I will work on this and the rear quarters. If not, ill still drive the car as in only in nice weather.
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Ahhh there for 4 doors only? I thought they where in the rockauto discount parts list.
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My first order through ebay was cancelled, they gave a lame reason that my shipping address was incorrect. I think they just marked it that way so they wouldn't get a negative mark on ebay. So i ordered another set through a different ebay seller. I did notice that after the first seller cancelled the order, immediately online i could not find many of the listings for the rocker panels, they were just gone. Looks like the supplier figured out they didn't actually have them in stock.
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Question for you guys. What do you think my 0-60 time would be. I feel like my car is faster than most. It has no trouble going from 80 to 100 or getting up to 90 on an onramp. I do have some mods but so do most on here and they say their cars aren't that fast, maybe it's because I've never driven a real high horsepower car so my expectations are low.
Here's the mods.
2550 lbs weight
Fuel injected
Mild cam
Overbored pistons
Head taken off twice and shaved a little
Pacesetter header
No power steering or ac
5 speed from lxi
So what 0-60 times do you think I should get? I record some passes and post in a few days.
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Since you live in the flat lands ill go...
8.8 secs 0 60 16.8999 quarter mile
When I had my gtech pro I never could get below 17.0 quarter. its the 60 foot kills the time very slow.
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Last summer before carb #1 cracked I think it was running 8 flat 0-60, good considering that getting off the line is a total money shot and you have to somehow not lean it out. This year I thought it felt a bit slow, but I never timed it and it may be the same reason that I had the cyl head off.
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Haven't had time to do a 0-60 test, i always have 100+ lbs of computer parts etc in my trunk that i want to take out before doing so. Did an oil change and wanted to tighten up the two sensors on the thermostat housing since it looked like there is coolant coming from that area. I found the infamous TW sensor was broken off but hanging on for dear life. It completely fell apart when i touched it so i found this post. https://www.3geez.com/forum/efi-tech...tw-sensor.html As it turns out this is a common part between what it looks like all OBD 0 and OBD 1 honda cars. I got my Chinese part from amazon for $12 prime https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07W7RL6..._IMswFb73E1DEV Car runs much better at idle with it.
Did some of the easiest rust removal. Replaced the rusted lugnuts and locks with Gorilla lugnuts.
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/WheelLugNuts(1).jpg
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/WheelLugNuts(2).jpg
I had an issue with the wheel lock, went to rotate the tires and the lock key snapped into a million pieces. Went to order a replacement with the number on the side of the lock and that wasn't good enough, you need an identification card with 3 numbers on it. I dont ever remember getting that even though I put those locks on 18 years ago. So I had to send a picture of the locking wheel nut to McGuard so they could match the picture with the key shape. $15 and a week later, i got it in the mail and it was a perfect match to remove it. Decided against those locks, less stress worrying about losing the key and honestly if someone wants the wheels its easier to take the entire car anyways. I don't park in bad areas or outside at night.
Selling the 2000 Insight and will be using the 3geez as my year around daily. Monies from the sale will go into fixing it up. It will be a challenge to daily it but i am up for it. This was actually my wife's suggestion. Definitely agree..
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I really like Gorillas allen style lugs. Its not going to stop your wheels from getting stolen, but nobody just carries a huge allen or a gorilla key with them, so better than nothing, might keep the local meth heads from giving you concrete wheels.
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Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures
Quote:
Originally Posted by
conozo
Dang I dragged my feet and now there not on Rockauto.
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Yesterday was a historic day in the making. October 3rd 1988 my dad purchased the accord new off the lot. Also yesterday I sold my Honda Insight making the accord my only daily driver. 2nd time in history it was made a daily driver and happened to be on the same day.